R_Blue

You are welcome. I understand you want to make the car as pure as possible. If you can't find something but eagerly need a replacement, there are parts from other cars or "vehicles" compatible with Favorit. I already have several parts from other cars, a heavy truck and a small excavator. Here is a fresh info: From what I've heard, Fiat UNO 's (second generation) front door window swiping rubbers (inner & outer) are perfect fit for Favorit front door windows. I need these but haven't tried yet. So consider this unconfirmed. I'm still looking for an alternate for rear door windows' swiping rubbers. missed a word there sorry Other parts from VW that I know are: High quality fan switches that can only be found on some VW stores. If you install a Felicia fan cover: 6U0121207 From what I've searched before, some VW fans seems compatible.

Because of the model year of your car, (1993) some of the parts in your car are %100 identical with VW of the same era. (Golf I/II/II, Polo 6N) Especially the wheels and brakes. I completely rebuilt every part connected to beam axle with parts from a VW store. Also, if you remove a screw and see it's screwed in a plastic mounting piece in a square hole, there is a high possibility you won't be able to screw into it again or it will be a loose fit. The plastic part will be split into two or it won't hold the threads of the screw you just removed from itself, forcing you to find larger screws. If you see square holes on the bodywork, use caged nuts instead of fiddling with crap plastic screw counter pieces. There are square holes with variable sizes. So I keep M4,M5 and M6 caged nuts at hand now. It saved me lots of time and headache. For example: The rear view mirror and its whole surrounding assembly is screwed in plastic pieces in square holes.

TC-6 is a cool and very useful upgrade. 👍

Nice find. This is from 1989 Estelle 135 GLi export model with catalytic converter. Similar parts here.

I'm residing on a hill and go down and climb it every day. Going downhill doesn't help with carburetors you know. All I can do is coasting small declines. My Forman is the same weight as your Fellys. 900Kg but I have LPG stuff installed. +50kg. I climb with two passengers in the car. Total extra weight excluding me is about 200kg. I climb about 250-300m elevation difference every day. Heavy traffic congestion every morning. Sometimes I stuck in the 5Km/h traffic like 40 minutes. Under these circumstances, what should I expect about fuel consumption? Gas or LPG? I have 175/70 R13 Dunlop Touring SP1 s on 5.5" steel rims from VW Vento.

Please zoom in for numbers: 1- Gasoline entry from gas tank. This line normally goes to the mechanical pump at the front of the engine. 2- Return from fuel pump. This is normally connected directly to the carburetor. To the bubble separator. Looks like a small yellow cup. (missing here) 3- Instead of the bubble separator, fuel line is going to this part. This looks like some kind of injection system part. 4- Excess gasoline return line. 5- Complete mystery to me. I misjudged braided lines for some kind of high pressure fluid line. Edit: Also there is a sensor on the intake manifold too.

It's not the original distributor you know. This one is for Renault 12. I think they fitted it this way with only LPG in mind. Because LPG requires higher advance in lower RPM range. From what I see here, I have two options right now. Return to the original ignition system or find a way to raise the distributor. I'll revert it back to LPG and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

So I have new spark plugs (Bosch FR6DC+) and removed the LPG mixer from top of the carburetor and installed the original air box mounting plate. It's pretty much stock fuel system now. (Except the electric fuel pump) I think it was a good idea to re-adjust ignition timing and idle mixture. With @RicardoM 's advise, I have a vacuum meter now. I tried to make the adjustment just like in here: The problem is, I find the highest point at dead end when turning clockwise. I can't turn the distributor anymore clockwise because any further movement to clockwise is blocked by the engine. You can see it in the picture. In this position, engine is running fine in the low RPM range but when I try to put some load on the engine at high rpm (above ~2200) , for example, when accelerating uphill in 3rd or 4th gear, I hear a very faint clicking sound coming from deep. Hard to hear. Sometimes accompanied with slight back and forth shaking. It's hard to feel too. I can't try to turn the distributor to clockwise so, is it possible to change distributor's neutral position? Are distributors only installed one way?

Incredible. What is your tire and rim size?

I saw this picture from Škoda story board official from the links above. Looking at the front grille this must be an early model. Did they have SPI on early models? There is something like a power steering assembly there too. I guess this car is modified later.

Such a fine example. I also saw small kids run suddenly between parked cars.

So I made the right choice buying FR6DC+ instead of FR8DC. Thanks! That is a relief. About the price...well. Sometimes 2=3 or 2=4. When you see 2=2 that's a green light.

Is this one a SPI engine?

Your car is very clean for its age. 👍

Unless there is heavy chassis damage, someone should save that car. Felicia Fun is a special car. Worth saving.

I like this mod. Very useful. Also... If you change your backup lights with IR LEDs, you can park like a Terminator T-800 in the night!

1st 2nd 3rd 4th Broad daylight shows that the first spark plug is looking damaged. Insulator core is chipped. Side electrode seems cracked? Thanks for the info. I've found a set of Russian made Bosch FR6DC+ 's. Price was near the half of market average. I'll give them a go and see what happens.

When I disappear from the forum for a while, almost always something happens. It's like every week there is a new problem. 😭 I've dealt with fuel delivery problems again and more electrical issues... But now, new theme is: Energy Crisis. Prices have gone crazy. The gap between gasoline and LPG is so narrow now, it's the same or only a little difference between using any of them. Considering my aged LPG system, using gasoline for a while would be a better choice. I've completely overhauled the carburetor a couple of months ago so I sprayed some carb. cleaner inside of the carburetor, removed the LPG mixer which is restrictive for airflow. I've screwed the airbox with its original retaining ring. Two days ago when returning to home, uphill acceleration, the car suddenly lost power and started to rock back and forth. I released the gas pedal and pulled over. Idle speed was reduced like a quarter or more. Exhaust was smelling unburned fuel. There was apparently an ignition issue. I suspected about the distributor. After opening the distributor cap, there was oil inside of the cap walls.(Maintenance oil spray with centrifugal force) I cleaned it thoroughly. I started the engine again but there was no difference. When the engine was still running, I decided to unplug spark plug leads one at a time. (Even wearing rubber coated work gloves, and holding from insulated end fitting, I got shocked! It's a bad idea to hold the chassis with your other hand when pulling spark plugs.) I started from forth. When I remove one lead, the idle rev reduced more. Finally when I tried the first, it did not have any effect. That means cylinder no1 wasn't firing. I removed the spark plug to see what happened. The plug's side electrode was looking like if there was a layer over it, and that layer was cracked and disintegrated. One of the tiny pieces was between the electrodes, shorting the spark plug. It was night with other people in the car so that was a quick fix with no pics. sorry. İnsulator core was covered with light brown/grey dust but I saw a small notch at one side. I gave the spark plug a quick cleaning with a sand paper piece and the power loss issue was gone. Like many parts of the car, the spark plugs may be old. Maybe ancient. I must change them. I could hardly read the markings but the current ones are Champion RC12YC. (Are they already wrong?) From now, everything gets messy. Before opening this this topic I've read a lot about spark plugs and their indisputable importance about power, fuel saving and engine health. I've read other user's experiences about spark plugs. It's very very critical to choose right plug. Advised plugs for Favorit 135 engine (carb): Champion C9YCC. For higher compression 136 engine: Champion S7YCC. (Both are not available anymore) I've got the head skimmed before when repairing head gasket failure. I don't know how much they skimmed it (I don't know if this was the first skim the head ever got too) but it's sure the compression is higher. My ignition system is not standard. The distributor and ignition coil are from Renault 12. Distributor: Magneti Marelli S148A. Ignition Coil: Magneti Marelli BE200B Mk1. I'm currently trying to make a perfect tune for gasoline but there is a possibility to use LPG later. How can I choose the right spark plug now? Narrowing the choices got me into these: Bosch FR8DC/FR8DC+ (for 135 engine) Bosch FR6DC/FR6DC+ (for 136 engine) Should I go for colder FR6DC? Or direct substitute FR8DC? I can also choose from Magneti Marelli, Brisk, NGK.

I'd love to see more from Kathy. Please do that. 🥰

Yes but it's better than nothing. Sorry. I mean cable's own insulation. I totally agree with you. Anything is better than cable's own insulation. I buy shrink tube here too but there is no glue in them. Looks like your macaroni comes with a sauce. 😋

I also think, uncovered cables are prone to corrode from inside. I've encountered unprotected and undamaged cables rotten inside. I think normal cable insulation is not weather-proof.

That explains everything. Original tie-wraps at the right side in my car are are also missing. Cable bundle is secured there with wires.

Nice to watch. Thanks.

The engine sounds similar to our engine and he liked it.

Window jacks for Felicia/Favorit are hard to find. Good work. 👍 Sport interior elements are looking cool.