ApertureS

I hope you had a black bolt then if you did 200+180 degrees. Silver bolts only need to be done to 200+90 degrees Part/unit Tightening torque Screw -WHT.005.437- 200 Nm and turn 180° Screw -WHT.005.437.A- 200 Nm and turn 90° further Taken from OE skoda manual.

Ive opened and repaired about 30 of these, there is only one magnet. Chances are the batteries are dead and need replacing, id be checking the voltage with a multimeter as if the cells are toast, it wont charge.

Put the mirror adjustment selector to the passenger side, now when you put it in reverse, it should move. You must have drivers memory seat for it to work effectively.

We need voltage readings in the following states: Engine off, igntion off Engine off, ignition on Cranking Engine idle no load Engine idle full load (turn all lights on, fan on max, heated seats, heated rear window) Please report back with voltages

The factory OE thermostat housing has gone through the following revisions: 06L121111H 06L121111J 06L121111K 06L121111L 06L121111M 06L121111P - CURRENT So i would hope it has been upgraded and repaired since then so it doesnt fail easily.... The coolant pump has gone through the following 06L121012A 06L121012H 06L121012K 06L121012L - CURRENT

So to add a bit of clarity, its never actually the water pump that leaks... The water pump is belt driven by the balance shafts and this pump bolts to the side of the complicated thermostat housing which bolts to the block. The 2 places that tend to leak are the plastic welds within the thermostat housing or the thermostat housing to engine block seal. The first one is simply poor quality parts, the second is caused by incorrect coolant or concentration or by the bolts not being torqued correctly. In this case based on the corrosion, id say its a coolant related issue.

Front: Disc: 5Q0615301F Pads: 5Q0698151AH - sensor included Rear: Disc: 3Q0615601A Pads: 3Q0698451L

Whats your VIN and ill check the system.

Any video of the tensioner without the cover on and the engine running? Wanna see if its jumping about

If you post the VIN or reg I can get you the exact part numbers

Remove the entire glovebox assembly and release it from that, its a whole lot easier.

Also to add - Sportline is a styling option, there are no changes to ride height through having a sportline

1 - Turn off cruise control and it will take its place at the bottom of the screen 2 - go into the cluster - trip - overview. Then press the right mouse wheel to cycle through since refuel, journey and forever.

Just to throw something else into the mix.... Brembo friction material (pads and discs) are SHOCKING quality - so many complaints of noisy brakes, ive personally had one with metal imbeded in the friction material out the box! People see the name and think they are quality parts..... Brembo hydraulic components like calipers are wonderful quality, but there is a reason youll see a manufacturer use brembo calipers but wont throw brembo pads in them.... And for those that require proof - The pads/discs that eurocarparts sell and label as 'brembo' are not made by brembo exactly but the name is licensed out to a company in china - https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/brembo-gold-phoenix-leading-friction-technology

Take it to someone else with ODIS - most VAG specialists will have ODIS-S and can do this work for you. Probably would have you agree to a no warranty disclaimer, but better than waiting around.

Why not fit a second hand ECU and have it recoded?

Just fitted the new NSF level sensor - this will help us move forward with the headlight fault: So the headlight fault is that when moving the lights constantly go up to max, then drop to min height, then repeat. After about 20 cycles they default to min height and i get a light error. The only fault code stored is to do with NSF level sensor and seen as this is the one I accidentally fed 12V to instead of 5V, there is a good chance its faulty. So we will monitor this for a few days now and see what happens. If for some reason this doesnt cure it, then I will need to look at the following: - DCC coding - DCC wiring - 4B coding - 4B live data for the headlight leveling to see what its actually doing - 09 coding If none of these find anything then it could be a possible dataset issue with 4B but im not 100% my year of car has a dataset in the 4B module. But seen as the level sensor fault was in the DCC module, we need to start there and hope for the best!

So I think its time to talk more coding.... Lets start with DCC - remember this is everything I did and may not cover all cars exactly. Ill quote from an earlier post first which covers all the gateway dataset parts After this the following was needed: 19 - Gateway coding change was needed as follows: FPA_Funktion_DR set to 1 (DR stands for damper regulation). This allows the gateway to output a signal to DCC modules to decide on their mode. 19 - Gateway installation list: Add module 14 - elect. suspension 03 - ABS coding: Enable Byte 27 bit 7 (Electronic suspension fitted) 4B - Multi function control module coding: LWR sensors: 1 sensor to 2 sensors 4B - Multi function control module coding: Source height value: BCM to DCC 5F - Infotaiment adaptation: Chassis_Control_0x57: active 5F - Infotaiment adaptation: menu_chassis_control: active 17 - Instrument cluster coding: Adaptive chassis control: set to 1 09 - BCM adaptation: Leucteweitenregulierung-sensor_headlight_range_control_installed: Not fitted This covers all the coding required - not a huge amount really, and the DCC module has no coding. The DCC module software needs updating to 5Q0907376C_0130 which supports the 14 stage DCC slider, opposed to the 3 stage comfort/sport/normal We then applied a DCC dataset to match the vehicle type - closest 2 options were Passat or Arteon, I went for passat. The final stage is the calibration of the DCC system. If using ODIS it runs you through the process but it is incredibly simple - raise all 4 wheels off the ground and allow them to hang on their own at their most extended travel. After this run the calibration with ODIS or VCDS and it will store these as the most extreme values and you are done. DCC fitted and fully working.

Depending on if the seller back door'd the system to remove component protection, or if they simply havent - you need to find out? Because to me it needs component protection removing before you even bother looking at other faults.

It looks like you have just fitted the radio without any coding or component protection removal. This will prevent a lot of functions working and needs to be removed by someone with ODIS before it will begin to work. Have you fitted like for like part numbers? If so, has the coding and adaptations been updated with ODIS to the correct ones? as i assume your old one is unreadable.

Any idea if its factory fit or an aftermarket fitted camera?

The 653 radar was only fitted up till 25.05.2015 and the 654 was fitted to all cars after this. The 653B was replaced with the 654D on 01/04/2016 After 08.07.2019 the 2Q0 radar was used instead. There is very little support for the early 653 cameras and my guess to do with the speeds is to do with the earlier mk7 golf's which used a LRR allowing up to 210kph and this camera was compatible with that. After this time they started using flat face MRR radars which dont have as long a range coverage, so the cameras also didnt need to cover this distance.

Glad it got sorted!

That is an impressive spec superb! I think the only optional extra i cant see is the variable boot floor and pano roof. Other than that, massively good spec and well priced for the mileage. Good luck with sale.

A test lamp is to be honest a terrible test, a bulb will light up at 6V and if LED will light up at 1.5V You need a multi meter to test it properly to see true readings. if you have high resistance due to corrosion or damaged wiring then a test lamp won’t help at all.