ApertureS

I havent seen anyone else do it except me to be honest, there may be others. The work involved is massive and parts alone are over £1800, without any of the custom wiring, coding, labour or anything else.

Im a bit confused, why do you need more than one key? Last i checked you took proof of ownership to a dealer and they activate it? (on a side note, you really should have more than 1 key for emergencies.)

Are you sure its the fuel level warning and not this, as stated in the manual under high voltage charging

Welcome to the forum This is the superb section, your post will need to be in the fabia section - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/ Regarding radio codes, are you sure it needs a physical code and not a component protection removal. If the physical code is required, youll need to provide the serial and part number for anyone to be able to assist.

Based on your engine cover you have an EA888 gen 4 engine, chances are the intake pipe you purchased is for a gen 3 engine and id assume it is different to your gen 4 engine. The Gen 3 has a spur on the top side of the plastic elbow that goes into the turbo, this looks specific to the gen4, possibly a SAI system or a breather for the engine would be my guess.

Both can work, Depending on access. For the 180 degrees I would personally do this: Tighten first to 200Nm, mark bolt and a reference point with paint pen, tighten the angle as much as i can in the air, fit wheel without centre cap and lower to floor, finish the remainder till both paint marks are furthest from eachother, ie. 180 degrees apart. When i dont have great access for a bar then ill use an impact gun to do the angle yes

For the front hub bolt it is as follows: Torque Screw Torque Screw -WHT.005.437-/black 200 Nm and turn 180° Screw -WHT.005.437.A-/silver 200 Nm and tighten by 90° For the wheel bearing:

Whats your VIN and ill send you the full details as it varies by bolt type (there are 3 bolt types)

the 2.0tsi had issues with coolant being pushed up the wiring looms tourags had issues with oil being pushed up wires vauxhalls had issues with oil pressure switches failing and pushing oil into the ECUs Its not an unheard of thing so dont ignore it. It should be bone dry and have no oil or fluids of any kind in it. Above the connector is a breather, but there is no valve or anything to allow oil to escape, and if the DSG was that overfilled to allow this, then it will need draining and measuring to confirm if this was the case. Seen as all filling is done from the bottom and the filter is on the rear side, there is no reason for oil to be spilt anywhere near the connector.

So this week involved the final push for all the wiring! Bringing (almost) everything together and even getting some bits finally working. So to get started the entire dashboard had to come out - Ive done this too many times now that i can whip it out in under 2 hours The photos also show the sheer amount of wiring that was tucked behind the drivers footwell Once the dash was out it was a job of locating where all the wiring was going as well as adding the extra wires for things behind the dash So basically everything on the right side of the dash went to either left footwell to join the engine bay harness fuse box BCM everything in the right footwell went to either centre console fuse box BCM 5F radio Then the following was added behind the dash into the rat nest of wires power and ground for heated steering wheel USB hub HSD cables, power and ground Wireless charger harness which split to 5F, fusebox and to left footwell MOST cables from TV tuner to instrument cluster There was also a few wires to neaten up on my travels. So once all the wires were roughly draped in their needed final locations it was then a job of wrapping harnesses to secure all the wires and give it that OE look. Sadly didnt get any photos after this was all wrapped and secured but basically, it looked like no one was ever there. To show the extend of the modifications, the fuse box now gained an additional 9 fuses! A small side note but something that was on my list - everytime the car was started I was greeted by what can only be described as the car yawning at me - the grease on the heater direction flaps had dried out and caused as a squeaking sound almost. So the motors and gears came out, all grease was removed and relubricated with lithium grease. (Even with the entire dashboard out, some of these motors were near impossible to remove!) Back on track.... so all powers and grounds ran, all wires in their final locations, now time to terminate! A custom fakra to quadlock micro pin was created at the 5F unit which is a fancy way of saying, the outer braid had its own terminal and the inner core did too. This was for the 360 camera video feed to the 5F. A few wires were added to the gateway canbus wires as it was the easiest location to access them. A fakra connection in the centre console was added for the signal booster from the wireless charger HSD cables were ran to the rear of the centre console for the usb hub and the usb hub tucked under the centre console area 4 wires were added to the BCM - ventilated seat LINbus, wake up signal from charger, wake up signal from DCC module, heated washer jet power One of the hardest parts came next, 16 loose wires in the left footwell with nothing to connect to! The wires from the engine bay now needed to get to the left footwell and the access point is buried behind the complete heater assembly and behind the ABS module. Neither of these were coming out so i struggled for hours to run the wires and securely waterproof the OE gasket with my new wire feed. First picture shows where it was buried, second shows the wires now emerging. 16 wires, and a HSD cable. All 16 wires were then terminated male and female and the new red plug was added and connected (look factory enough for you?) the blue HSD connector was then terminated male and female and connected up. And this basically summed up the wiring! 4 days work 150 meters of loom tape roughly 530 meters of new wiring a lot of blood and sweat and what do we have to show for it.... well youll have to wait for the next post!

Erm… it has a massive effect on the car when the oil starts tracking up the wiring loom requiring a complete new engine bay harness. I wouldn’t be leaving it and get it sorted asap

T25 and T45 Most have the half tray only so no rear screws to deal with.

It always angers me to see the difference between a service and an extended scope service! For the nearly £100 price difference you get the following…. Wheels removed and brakes checked - I mean this is one of the first things that should be done on any vehicle a mechanic will be driving even if it’s not in for a service… it takes all of 2 minutes (without having to remove the wheels) Check/adjust drive belts - I’d love to find a Skoda tech and ask to see their drive belt tension checking tool - and adjustable tensioners haven’t been on vag cars for the last 25 years almost. Check/replenish manual gear oil - seen as most cars are dsg this is fairly moot and even then will very likely be a cursory glance at the gearbox for any leaks and a box tick. Seen as gearbox oil doesn’t just disappear either, offering to replenish it is all well and good when you’ve got a leak that needs fixing. check of final drive oil - will most likely be exactly the same as above and not include the haldex coupling which is arguably more prone to failure check suspension system - again, a glance at the underside which should be part of even the most basic service and if you’re lucky (and hopeful) a little pull, push and wobble to check for worn out suspension parts. check heating/air con - I very much doubt this is a full air con check involving pressure/weight testing or such (as they charge extra for this is a separate ‘aircon service’) and checking the operation of the heating again is a very basic check that should be part of every service lubricate door mechanisms - a lovely spray of white grease that within a few weeks will be blasted completely in dirt, but it is a visual to the customer that ‘we have done stuff to your car’ when in reality it doesn’t do much bar make a mess (except the bonnet latch which is fair to grease) that’s my rant over…. In a nutshell the ‘extended scope’ is the bare minimum that should be done on any service and charging £100 on top for it is an absolute con. in my opinion - a service should include all checks no matter what level and an oil and filter change. After this the additional service parts required either through time/mileage/request/dirty should be charged accordingly. That way you know a full check has been done and you know exactly what parts have been changed on your car.

Being a 2023 plate it cant be set up to close from the button sadly and your only option is the 2 tailgate buttons or the key fob when close to the tailgate. Your best option is to disable the button by removing the wire from below the button and securing it with heat shrink to prevent it touching anything. This would completely disable the button but also make it usable in the future by repinning it. If you wanted to do it yourself and had the relevant tools or wanted to instruct a local garage to do it, the wire that needs depinning from the 10 pin plug under the button assembly is the brown with green trace wire - it would just need to be removed and taped/heat shrinked to prevent any contact. If you wanted to visit me in north london id do it free of charge for you as it would only take 10 minutes max. Your final option that could be done is a separate button could be added to the center console area that would emulate the tailgate external handle button allowing you to open and close the tailgate from inside the vehicle from a button location of your choosing. The only downside to this is the safety aspect of making sure that the tailgate area is clear of any fingers or other things that may get trapped in it.

Not a good sign and as much as i dont like to condemn big expensive parts as a whole. I dont think ive seen any repair companies offer a repair specifically for the mechatronics plug - that being said, it may be possible! But i thought it was fitted with a potting compound that it 'meant' to be leak free. If no repair option is about, then a new mechatronic unit is required sadly.

What do you mean reckons?? Could he not fully diagnose it to be 100% sure of the failure? Out of interest why did it need a wheel bearing? Did they check it and diagnose it as faulty, if so - what was actually faulty about it?

Which lights do you currently have? there are: low line high line Full LED If you are moving upwards then you’ll need coding and new wiring mostly. low to high means that you’ll now have more bulbs on the tailgate so would need wiring and coding high to led means adding new wires to the bcm and custom coding.

Second this, brilliant tool! although they can be had for £2 on AliExpress

Todays work is underway! Gonna be in pieces for an estimate of 4-5 days with the amount of work going on!

Have you got anything to back that up? as i dont think thats the case at all.

There doesn’t need to be anything in the plug, there’s lots of lighting circuits that can be used! The camera doesn’t detect a Towbar connection; it’s just a reverse camera. Especially when you can have a car specced with a tow bar and no camera

Whether 7 or 13 pin plug, it could very easily know that something is detected by a basic continuity test across a lighting circuit

Battery is toast… (or engine is seized) and I’m going with you know it’s not the second option 😂 The plates will be cracked or sulfated in the battery meaning it’s true storage capacity and output capacity is massively reduced enough to pull the voltage down that low

Why are we focusing so much on checking wheel speed sensor resistances? Do as I suggested in my first post - you need to be checking at the abs module for power, a load tested ground and canbus voltages. Checking specific components (and not fully) on the abs system is not going to help you find a non connection to a module sorry.

I have the mib2.5 and it’s in the radio submenus No cut out or button on any pillar trim