ApertureS

Just a tip if you are buying a new wheel... If you buy a genuine wheel starting with 3V0601025 it is classed as a normal car part. Whereas if you buy a 3V0071498 wheel this is from the optional extras catalog and the wheel is the exact same - albeit with sometimes a 40% price reduction. If you google the skoda catalog for accessories for this age youll find a PDF with all the wheels - find yours on there instead of the original code.

ECS is based in america so it depends what agreement france has? For example if i wanted to import from france to the UK i have to pay an additional 20% tax plus an admin fee on the value of the order when it reaches a UK entry point.

If your petrol filter is blocked, then either you are allowing contamination into the tank, someone has dropped something in on purpose or using very poor quality fuel.... Ive taken so many fuel tanks and filters of of new and old petrol cars and never had any excessive contamination that wasnt caused by outside influence. Low fuel rail pressure can be caused by the low pressure pump or high pressure pump - have either of their outputs been checked for what kind of flow rate/pressure?

The code he’s posted is a generic EOBD code and not a VAG specific code like vcds or Odis would come up with

There are 1 in each door handle, one at the tailgate and one under the centre console. all depends what’s actually faulty as that fault description isn’t too specific

I say nothing glad they refunded it though! on this subject, my D revision has recently started showing faults so looks like I’ll be replacing mine also

There is no servicable fuel filter - 99% of petrol cars havent had fuel filters that need changing for the last 10 years or so. I see no issues with this, as for the years of me being a mechanic and dropping fuel tanks, cant say ive ever seen a petrol tank filled with any sludge/debris that a full on servicable filter would need to filter.

5G0886373 is the part number, can be purchased online or from a skoda dealer

No spare fuses kept in the cars sorry. if you wanted to keep spares they use standard blade fuses and also mini blade fuses.

To add to number 3, you also need the new radar type as the old style won’t fit behind the new bumper. regarding 2, I think there may be wiring changes also to take into account

Yes it’s on all the time, you can turn the brightness down if wanted but with how dim they are during the day I doubt it’s an issue

They are mostly done with a power, ground and all switching is done inside the headlight unit via canbus, so would need it connected to test it properly.

Not to put a damper on your attempts and in no way any offence meant... But if you are struggling to read the wiring diagrams someone posted above, then you risk causing damage to your car/yourself further by possibly back feeding/shorting or any other issues. If the fuel pump fuse has blown (if) then the last thing I would be doing is bypassing the fuse and feeding power into a literal tank of flammable liquid that may have a short circuit within it.... Just some food for thought

The tyre repair gel much like the string repair is NOT a full repair but is a temporary get you to a place of safety solution. it should never be treated like a full repair and will need a proper mushroom patch which is done from the inside so it has mechanical and adhesive strength.

Yeah I’ve done it. So to do the job properly, the wireless charger is also a phone signal booster which requires an amplifier in the boot and a new shark fin antenna. After this there is roughly 10 new wires and also 2 new data cables as well as the new parts including the front cubby with the built in wireless charger. Quite an involved job

The rear heating system with only 2 zones is controlled by the passenger temperature setting. if you set this to max heat, what happens in the rear vents? And is there any air flow? have you also adjusted the flap direction to vents?

I have a spare loom for sale if youre interested Its for a kodiaq so slightly longer, but exactly the same, just means wires need tucking somewhere.

Red is the permenent live feed to the interior, black is the ignition switched feed to the interior. And in terms of your diagnosis so far - TOP TIER. Your methods with the amp clamp are exactly what should be done and you are on track to find the cause. Most people start pulling fuses but that hasnt been an option for the last 15 years with canbus modules - yet people still do. You may have a damaged connection in the door so id be disconnecting both door modules and monitoring the current draw again, if it doesnt change you may have damaged wires in the door jam partially shorting out.

This is a list of the parts that apply to 3W6, so basically its foam on the inside of the wheel arches, underbody paneling and a piece in the boot and thats about it

No calibration is possible sorry, it will be a broken screen. You may be able to send it away for repair, if not a new or used radio is required (with coding and such)

Paddles will work no problem, Id also say you have the old style airbag which fits the alcantara steering wheel.

If you can supply a UK Reg or VIN i can look it up for you

These aftermarket cameras are nothing but rubbish generally, people fit them and they either give up not long after, or they dont work from the get-go. Pay the extra and get a genuine reverse camera fitted, more work involved yes, but the pay off is worth it.

Well we have some noise from the Webasto heater, which is a start. Bleeding the pipework for fuel was a pain the in ass. IMG_0806.MOV But not as much of a pain as making the custom pipework, currently its not as pretty as I would like but it does the job as a proof of concept. The drivers seat had its ventilation fitted and all working now, fully ventilated front sportline seats. I then made the mistake of fitting the seat buckle back to front... this can be fixed when the seats are next out, oops We are still making good progress! Everything has slowed down a bit now.... but next up is sorting the basic settings on the Webasto and calibrating the areaview. After this we can start on the suspension and DCC retrofit.

Disconnect the plug at the back of the clockspring. Set multimeter to DC Volts Put the red end of your multimeter in the plug end wire that is for the heated steering wheel power (big red) Put the black end of the multimeter to a known good ground (door checkstrap or something like that) What reading do you get?