ApertureS

The caliper end of the circuit is in a much harsher environment subject to higher temperatures and the fluid in this area doesn’t exactly cycle. Coupled with the fact that oil floats on water then the water if in high enough concentrations will sink to the lowest points which is the calipers - in theory (yes brake fluid absorbs water but it will still sit at the lowest point). also a chance of split seals, hoses or couplings allowing for ingress. I never said you *will* get a higher level of contamination at the caliper, but there are small chances in a small number of situations. If you’re not going to stick to the time interval, and instead do it on fluid degradation (which is perfectly fine) then why not be extra safe about it? when did I mention slave cylinder seals being replaced with a fluid change? 🤨

This works yes, BUT only if you are checking the fluid for water contamination at the reservoir AND at the calipers! Most places dunk the reservoir and call it a day.

The recall relates to the safety HV fuse - if it was to blow there is a chance it could short/arc to the bodywork. A very small chance! The solution - A insulating mat is placed in the area to prevent any shorting if the fuse did pop. Unless there is a new recall for a different issue that is!

Please get rid of all that formatting as it makes it impossible to read and look at if you place a full scan inside the <code> tags then it makes it much easier to read. In its current state it takes up way too much space. If youre unable to edit the post now, either delete the post and repost with correct formatting or report it to an admin and they can resolve it EDIT: Also please make sure to post the complete autoscan that includes the top few lines which show what youre running the device on and also the VCDS version as it looks like your fault codes are different to the ones you took a photo of.

How much power do the 2 devices draw. how much can the 12v to 5v inverter put out? these 12v to 5v things are only not all good for a couple of amps

What vcds are you using? Based on the first fault code it’s an outdated module - most of the time meaning it’s a cheap clone… not only that, we need to know that fault code to know what part you have coded incorrectly

The part number you supplied is for a mk1 fabia yes EDIT: I got confused - That piece of plastic in the photo probably sits on top of the strut cylinder as a dirt shield.

Thanks both of you @varooom. that’s pretty interesting to see where it’s positioned. im in the process of fitting a memory passenger seat so half tempted to attempt to make this work with memory seats. Could be done with some internal modifications to the switch packs. also if anyone has a destroyed ventilated seat - let me know, I want to strip it down and see if it’s feasible to fit to a sportline seat somehow.

So there is something pretty interesting that ive not seen on a single superb.... You can control the front passenger seat from the rear passenger door. I have no idea how this piece fits into the rear passenger cabin area, cant work out where it would mount on the door card or anywhere else? Below is the references i can find for it. Note: Not for memory passenger seat 3V2959785 9B9 - 4V2 Front passenger seat adjustment from rear, left seat

Please post the actual fault codes complete. Not just your/the description of them. It will help a lot more.

Have you fitted any aftermarket interior lights recently? Specifically, LED ones.

Its hard to say without plugging the car into a diagnostic tool and either checking for fault codes or live data. Where are you located, it could help if someone has vcds near you to scan the car. If you dont have a tool youll need to take it to a garage or a member with vcds.

Put the car in service mode using a diagnostic tool. Turn ignition off. When done, ignition back on and take out of service mode. No need to keep it on for this procedure.

To note as well - higher number doesn’t always mean better. Some software isn’t meant for certain modules or brands. also just cause you update the software doesn’t mean there will always be a suitable dataset for your car. im not saying this is always the case but can be the case with certain modules. the vag group do a weird setup and there is no ‘official’ way to update modules that don’t have an outstanding tsb/recall/service action. of course modules can be updated using odis-e with the raw file but you need to know what you’re doing.

Correct yes. Held with a lock nut. Are they seized? If so, warm it up till its extremely hot where it goes into the track rod end, then a dab of a candle on it, wicks the parafin down the threads.

But it’s not an airbag fault code you supplied, it’s a crash sensor on the drivers side

It goes back up after 10mph

Im not sure what you think a 3.7 ohm resistor will do? And what do you mean a airbag igniter? The crash sensor drivers side is a small module located either in the drivers door or somewhere around the aperture that is there to detect a crash. Now all i can think is, with a resistor you are trying to bodge repair it, which is a terrible and stupid idea with airbags!

If its anything like the superb, its directly above the accelerator pedal, small black box with 2 connectors (only 1 may actually have a connector in it though)

So what it is - its a piece of fabric that has 2 pieces of non contacting wire embedded in them, and on the end will be 2 metalic pads. Whats it for - they are ran in areas that water may pool in the car, under carpets, in the boot, near lights and openings, in the factory the car is soaked with water, if water leaks into the car they test these points for continuity, if they have continuity it means they are wet and a leak is discovered. They are only used when the car is built. EDIT: For anyone looking to see it in action - https://youtu.be/vyS_mLN3QhM?t=2332

Yes all coding and adaptations can be done with odis e

What are you using for the rear monitors as i assume they are aftermarket? Didnt think the superb came with them as standard?

I agree I wouldn’t be repairing a crack from the outside edge as the twisting motion of the chassis with cause it to return at some point or another, yes. You may not be doing a structural repair as such but it’s still a repair that should, if done correctly, stop it spreading further. If the car turns over or the airbag deploys, a crack no matter how big in the screen will make absolutely no difference to laminated glass failing (assuming you mean failing as in coming out completely?) the glass will crack anyway in either of these situations so a crack pre existing won’t change that. the other thing is autoglass/auto windscreens have a financial interest in replacing screens and not repairing, so who can blame them for doing the bare minimum repair.

Out of interest, why do you want waveforms prior to doing a timing belt change? Im gonna assume so you can check the timing is spot on afterwards? Regarding your engine, it is of the EA211 family very similar to the 1.0 and 1.4 tsi engine. For the timing tool you will want https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354301692890 and the manual for changing the belt can be found online often as the EA211 is a very common engine. Hope this helps

Can promise you this isnt the case... The people that fit windscreens are often fairly incompetent OR theyre so over worked and rushed they dont care. Once it has been sent to the windscreen company the insurer is no longer a part of it other than paying the bill, any poorly fitted or damaged stuff is the windscreen companies issue. I know this as Auto Windscreen done my car and my fathers car (2 separate occasions, 2 separate locations) and caused rougly £3500 worth of trim and paint damage to mine, and over £7000 worth of damage to his Audi TTRS, A lot of paintwork was required to put both mine and his car right. Next time im just gonna pay the extra and take it to the dealer - at least that way any damage caused is on them. Also regarding cracks being repaired, they 100% can be repaired as I have to repair many cracks a week for my job, the longest crack ill attempt to repair is often about 6-8 inches long with very good rates of success.