ApertureS

My 220tsi has the supplementary heater from the factory. Im still not sure the rhyme or reason that determines what does/doesnt have the electric heater element.

Roughly about £800 in parts including new fuel line and such. More expensive as its petrol, diesel can be done for a bit cheaper.

Well this sounds like an absolute mess and gives us experienced and honest mechanics a terrible name!!! I very much hope you are not paying for an ecu! Not a penny. if you’re anywhere near north London I’d be happy to take a look for you. this is what it comes to when technicians are in the dealer network and some are only capable of replacing parts or following computer controlled fault finding, no ability to scope can networks, find spurious signals or trace a fault. if they thought there was a dodgy wire they could have temporarily ran an external wire for this to see if the fault returns over a week to disprove/prove their theory. and since when do you replace a loom for a broken wire??? Repair it to a Skoda approved standard! sounds more like they have no idea what they are doing.

Hi there I’m in north London. You don’t need to stay in the dealer network to preserve a warranty, as long as quality parts are used and good workmanship they can’t argue it. of course if a part is replaced it doesn’t come under the manufacturers warranty and instead is a parts warranty for that bit. for example they can’t argue your rear caliper is seized because you fitted non genuine wiper blades.

Yeah I wouldn’t be fitting a knock off one. The air con system works using LINbus now so power, ground and a network for all the measuring components - if something interferes it causes havoc throughout

Vehicle - active info display from the menu in the bottom left. Will look like 2 circles you can scroll through

Have you tried plugging in the factory amp and seeing if it plays sound. it could be an issue at any point along the chain? How sure are you that the factory coding is back to how it was. You can’t check a dataset or see it, can simply upload a new one over the top of it, But only with odis or vcp. That being said if you haven’t changed it, then it will still be the original one

I’ve got all the bits to retrofit one in my petrol superb, just not got around to it and now it’s too cold to be doing it right now

The horns are in the top centre grill so wouldn’t effect this. my thoughts on this is (I’m not 100%, just a theory) for certain vehicles classified as high temperature climates they are often given a second radiator located in the wheel arch, this is probably the exhaust for the air that would pass through that radiator if it was to be fitted. ill look into it more at the weekend and see if the parts list any variants. EDIT: As suspected - Additional cooler with PR code 8D4/8D5/8D6/8D7 - 4 and 5 relate to performance reasons (possibly endurance use or police use), 6 and 7 relate to hot climate use. Left wheel arch is for secondary cooler - right wheel arch is for parking heater/webasto

Do you want to enable the most for sound output? if so, you need a dataset change, most needs enabling in the coding and then it should be good to go

No this is just a charging port. Not linked to the mib for data or anything. We dont get the 230V inverter option in the UK 😞

Show a photo of it if you can, but yes, 99%. unless you have a weird setup

If you are talking about the 2016 superb in your profile then no there is no splitter or hub, it goes directly to the USB socket in the front ashtray.

Don’t use duct tape. It eats into paint very quickly. There is a film used by windscreen companies and auction houses that is literally for this exact job - only thing is I don’t know the name of it. it’s a big clear adhesive sheet that can be stuck over any opening. hopefully this helps you find it?

When you say usb, you mean the one in the centre front ash tray area? if so, it runs to the back of the radio control unit in the glovebox it’s a lvds cable with very small wires and a pain to repair properly

Its far from the easiest solution - if its broken, replace it - whether thats with a new or second hand part is your choice but removing is well... silly... No photos as it is a single piece generally built into the shifter tower.

Erm, I mean its a sprung loaded pin controlled by a motor so youd have to strip it down and remove the pin or file the end down. But its a safety feature and an interlock, why would you want to do that? Not only that - I wouldn't recommend it and id also be wondering about the legalities and possibility of voiding your insurance - its there to stop the car accidentally being knocked into gear and taking off on its own.

Your car 99% will not have TPMS sensors in the wheel and instead it is done off the rolling circumference of the wheels via the abs sensors. Please set all the pressures and then make sure you go into the infotainment system and reset the sensors. You need to do this or it will keep having errors. Second thing to check - have you had tyres replaced recently? Just make sure they are all the exact same size.

It depends if it’s on variable or fixed servicing but the rough figures are; fixed - 1 year / 10,000miles variable - when the car tells you/2 years/20,000 miles @tootwill be along very soon to give you the specifics 😜

It’s always typical when I do a dump run that the bits people need are what I’ve just thrown. Yes it comes complete with the seatbelt as they are riveted together sadly. your best bet would be a breakers yard and just drill the rivet out and replace it - would be a whole lot cheaper. (rivet is just for locating and doesn’t actually secure the belt buckle, if it was safety related I wouldn’t recommend it)

Replies above in bold.

If you need a hand with part numbers, PM me and i can help supply exactly what is required.

Motor 1 is the left strut normally. Unplug it and see if you get a fault code for motor 1 open circuit. Personally i think get a pair, you can get aftermarket ones on ebay for £220 a pair. Please make sure to calibrate them after they are fitted.

A NOx efficency fault is generally caused by a few things; -Faulty NOx sensor -Blocked adblue injector -Poor quality adblue -SCR Cat not getting to temperature These are the fairly common causes and id be looking at a possibly blocked adblue injector nozzle which has crystalised on the tip

Buy the caps direct from Skoda. either attempt to paint yourself with a rattle can or take it to a bodyshop - keep in mind they will charge a minimum amount so don’t expect to be cheap cause it’s small. correct -they do come unpainted