ApertureS

If it still hasnt gone, you can pop this piece of trim out (its a tight fit but no screws), you can then unplug the 2 plugs and then when its fully off the car you can just pop the acrylic pipe out the back and clean it off and dry it, then refit to the trim piece then back in the car.

I believe this can be adjusted in the infotainment system under Vehicle/Car - Settings - Units or something similar to that.

So you have halogen headlamp units so just replacing with 3V1 will be acceptable. As you dont have lane assist you can ignore that. With front assist/cruise control youll need to change this module and possibly a few more modules from left hand traffic to right.

Nono not physically stuck on, but they are not dynamic and just an overlay based on your description. Have you got a photo of this camera in action and we can see

It does work perfectly, but it only flattens the beam pattern and removes the kick up. its only a temporary solution as there is no kick up at all, let alone to the correct side.

Depends if you have dedicated wiring or not. As long as you have a dedicated tow bar wiring and module and its set up correctly it will disable the parking sensors when connected.

Sounds to me like its not a factory fit camera and instead a lowline aftermarket where the lines are simply 'stuck' on the display. Got a photo?

I stripped the key down and physically removed the button for the tailgate. The amount of times i sat on the key and the boot must of been open for literally hours on the street....

Run the heater for ages. Probably just moisture behind the trim, I wouldn’t say it’s damaged though, just needs to dry out

Did it only fail after your friend touched it? if it’s not on the invoice from Skoda then no they wouldn’t of touched it and if you think they may of done it, why did you get your friend to do it just afterwards? something isn’t adding up with this story. We ain’t trying to catch you out here, just want to help you fix the car

There is no serviceable filter as such, just a gause in the tank.

It doesnt mean it was sold with a fault, it simply could of failed after you got the car. Id speak to them and get to do a fairly straight forward repair on it. As long as thats the only issue of course.

£600 is fairly reasonable if they are doing the water pump too i think.

Fancy, its got ventilated seats and a heated steering wheel too. Looks like a full package.

1.6 and 2.0 tdi have a issue where the water pump shroud sticks 2.0 tsi engines have issues with water pump and thermostat housing leaking - mostly resolved now the 1.4 and 1.5 tsi engines are pretty good for water pumps, not a real issue.

Sounds like a faulty micro switch in the latch.

If thats the case then a brake fluid change may be due. The £245 service you have been quoted is simply an oil and filter as well as lots of 'expensive' visual checks which generally are the same checks they do on all the services.

Damage the boot trim then and leaves no room for the missus

Its hard to say what would of been done in a major service as its more of a marketing gimmic now. You only get a oil service and an inspection service. Everything else has recommended intervals varying from 10k/12 months to 80k/8 years. What was actually done during this major service and just make sure they arent redoing it basically.

10mm thick Polycarbonate box with a breathing hole in the top, anchored to the isofix points should do the job

Now we are getting somewhere You are right about current monitoring, if its too high then there is a short in the wiring or in the pump itself. If the circuit is open it may explain why you arent getting a voltage. Its a pain but the 2 things i would do now - Remove the pump, power it directly from the battery with 2 pieces of wire, see if you can get it to run - Disconnect the bcm end and pump end - load test both of the wires with a 21w bulb and see if you have any issues. If youre unsure how to loadtest, google it, its pretty straight forward. Personally id still be looking at the pump first, try and run it. Or if the plugs are the same, swap the plug for both pumps and see if you can now operate the front washers with the headlight washer activation.

So the car has probably never had a fluid change before, this would invalidate the warranty immediately unless you can prove its been done when it should. And are you saying the car was okay until your mechanic friend touched it and bled the clutch?

Has he looked at the car in person and diagnosed it as that? and what is the actual problem youre having with the car? Also as its not the original vehicle warranty it may have different terms, often a slave cylinder whether brake or clutch may come under a servicable/fair wear and tear item. (Even though most would say it isnt) But that is if it even is the problem

That is a bit of an assumption to make, the antenna is built into the glass on the rear of the vehicle, it then goes through a frequency splitter and through a fakra cable to the radio where it is decoded. The aerial just coming loose isnt really an option. Youll need to get the car plugged it and checked for any fault codes, if its an open circuit on one of the two seperate dab circuits then youll have to eliminate the working parts and what is shorted. Could also be faulty components.

How much??? Thats the price on some complete reverse camera kits which include a new boot button. I would of gone second hand for £20 and called it a day. If it fails again in a year youre still £100 in the green with 2 buttons