ApertureS

That’s why I specify aftermarket Most manufacturers you won’t ever see Brembo friction material on their cars from the factory, all seems to be TRW or other brands. You’ll have brembo calipers and such which are second to none, but the actual pads generally aren’t. It seems that all the brembo **** that eurocarparts sell is exactly that, ****. From personal experience i can tell you I’ve had many a car come back with brembo pads on it for either knocking on the pads or bad squeaking and it’s always blamed on carrier worn out or user didn’t bed them in properly, throw a different brand in there and there are 0 issues.

Slots 16 and 18 will require you to add terminals and a new wire to each as they only have the bus bar, are you sure thats the route you want to go down? They are both terminal 15 supplies. Personally you are better off using a "add-a-fuse" and using the rear wiper fuse - The reason is, if there was a fault with the dash cam its easy to see the aftermarket wiring and related parts whereas if you run it through oe fuses and wiring you could come unstuck down the line with faults. Its also easier to simple add a fuse rather than finding the correct terminals and such.

In the boot you have 2 options. - Spare wheel, jack, wheel brace, locking wheel nut and a few little bits like a hook and screwdriver As yours doesnt have the spare it comes with - Tyre gel, Compressor, locking wheel nut, hook and screwdriver. Id take a guess that the gel was out of date so theyve replaced with the 'Slime' all in one kit - God knows where the compressor has gone though. And i would be wondering where the locking wheel nut is too.

Personally I wouldnt go anywhere near brembo aftermarket friction materials. They are not the same as Brembo calipers and hydraulics. The pads and discs are shocking quality... Ill give you a little inside tip - When we used to use eurocarparts they had massive incentives to make garages buy Brembo, such as biggest discount, rewards and such... Even with all that I wouldnt fit them on my own car. OE or Pagid are my go to for standard cars.

The only 'mechanical' part of the gearbox that is directly linked to the selector lever is the park detent and pin. Im guessing youre putting the car in park, taking your foot of the brake, letting it roll slightly then putting the handbrake on.

2 things that can cause this; Either the wrong firmware/update Using a mac...

You sure someone hasn’t dropped something down one of the vents and it’s rattling around in the ducts? A coin for example fits perfectly

Depends on what year superb you have if you can disable start/stop or not. personally I would get vcds, not carrista

Vcds is an aftermarket tool made by a few developers, odis is the main dealer diagnostic tool which will do everything if you know how. just cause odis can do it doesn’t mean vcds will. Have you tried asking on the vcds forums with a full auto scan and a log of attempting it, they should be able to help - as long as it’s genuine vcds

I too was scratching my head reading all this, still not 100% what was wrong and why it needed changing or what they even changed. I guess we will never know, this must of been the 2019 version of ‘your shocks are leaking mot fail’ when we all know there’s a slight mist 99% of the time

What do you mean dip beam fine but main beam is high? Main beam is an unrestricted lens so it goes as high as possible, that’s the point of it to light up everything when on.

It can be done but it’s a very fiddly job and requires either removing the entire prop or working around it on the car with a big lever bar.

They are adhered to the back of the bumper, all depends what’s glueing them and if they can get them off without breaking them. some kind of hard bodyshop adhesive (epoxy, not pu) is what holds them in place. New ones will come with double sided tape that is more than suitable as long as the area is prepped first

1. You cant acurately measure how much youre putting in 2. Its illegal to work with refridgerents without proper training 3. The system may have a leak 4. You are not purging the system properly to remove moisture and air 5. By the time youve purchased everything its the price of a regas 6. You cant fill your car with pressure alone, needs to be weighed in 7. Just dont do it, take it to somewhere with an actual machine that will do a leak test (albeit a useless leak test 99% of the time) and top your car with the correct weight of gas Also, why does it need a refill, where has the gas gone?

If the fuse blows then something is short circuiting, youll need to narrow it down, what light position is causing it to blow?

I have a plain black one from eBay, cost about £35 and it looks very clean and fits nicely. The OEM one is a £80 piece of clear paint protection film that isnt amazing.

Not sure why people ever put this stuff near their car, terrible stuff, yes its a quick fix but it can also block your cooling system up. Regarding changing the radiator, you have to remove the bumper and sometimes tip the entire front end forward to get the radiator out making sure to not damage the AC condensor and other parts. If you have to do this, you then have to recalibrate the ACC radar on the front of the car, Depending on engine, if you have a tdi you need to run a bleed routine with a scan tool afterwards else you risk air locking the system and overheating the engine. Basically it can be done at home yes but it all depends on skill level, engine, tools and if you are able to get it free without removing the front panel.

All depends where you want the sound to come from? If you want exhaust sound - change the exhaust If you want boost sound - turbo muffler delete and a large aftermarket air filter with no baffles If you want engine sound - drain the oil and take it for a hard run, it will soon start making noise

Everyone could give you ideas and guesses on a forum but thats all they would be. Youll need to take it to someone in person for a sure 100% diagnosis.

On a UK spec car with RHD steering it is above and behind the steering column, on a LHD car I am not 100% sure if its there still or swapped sides? EDIT: LHD is above your steering column also, only issue is you have a fuse box and bcm in the way.

This is in the wrong group to start with if it relates to an Octavia, the title should also display something more specific than the car make and model regarding the actual issue so people who are more knowledgable on the mib systems can chime in and assist. but regarding your fault I wouldn’t be jumping to check fuses - first of all, have you tried simply pressing the power button to see if you’ve just turned it off? If it doesn’t work, hold it for 10 seconds and try again. after that I’d be looking at scanning for any fault codes before touching fuses - if you pull fuses first you risk removing any fault codes that could assist you further down the line if it’s a repeating fault or a hard one to diagnose

I completely missed this comment about bcm outputs. it’s actually a really good idea and not sure if it would work in practice. This is all experimental but if you found a unused Leuchte channel in the bcm and knew what you were doing you could set it to a reverse output and for a 12v unmanaged output - run this output through a relay and run a lamp at the rear off of it. it will need to be set to unmanaged else it will monitor current and bring up a lamp fault on the dash. again this is all theory and not sure if anyone has actually done it but I don’t see why it couldn’t be set to a 12v 100% pwm output on reverse sensing all through the cars integrated systems.

Always something people seem to forget. Same with jump starting - if it’s done from the bulkhead point it skips the amp clamp on the negative terminal and the car will loose track of battery capacity and current charge levels. regarding rpm for optimal charging, everything said above is spot on - the alternator has a variable charge rate that doesn’t depend on rpm alone and can vary magnet field strength to increase charge rate at idle speeds.

MY17 could also have the Columbus system as mine does. and with the virtual cockpit it can be done on the mib2 systems but only some and you can’t have maps on both screens at once

I am assuming the rear main oil seal if they are dropping the gearbox. But personally I wouldn’t even bother, that’s not an oil leak just a sweat from 100,000 miles and literally 10s of millions of rotations, I’d say you’re fine.