ApertureS

The xenon washers will work every first time the washers are used after the car has been restarted. Or every 10th spray. Pumps are a common failure rather than anything else, thats why im still wanting to 100% confirm the power isnt there first. Have you checked the bcm input measure data to see the inputs?

Silly question - multimeter was set to DC and not AC voltage yes? And if its a one way diode you should check for voltage on both sides, Personally i would probe pin 1 and other side to battery ground. Then the same with pin 2. That is the true earth and will save you getting caught out by a bad ground.

Welcome to one of the many things done by the EU to help us out. Its called the block exemption and helps consumers out and prevents main agents from forcing you to return to them. https://www.gov.uk/cma-cases/motor-vehicle-block-exemption-regulation https://www.theaa.com/driving-advice/service-repair/right-to-repair-campaign

I mean, youre gonna need to give a lot more detail than this... im gonna assume we are talking about the car in your bio, a 2016 octavia? What warranty, manufacturer or aftermarket? What mileage? Chances are your car is well out of warranty so no chance. On top of that no one would consider a warranty based on your word, they will do their own diagnosis whether manufacturer or a garage. You say youre loosing brake fluid, in which case im guessing youve located the leak, where is it and have you got any photos? What makes you think something is drawing in air? not saying it isnt, just youve gave us the bare minimum to work with here

Welcome to the forum

It is a black 6 pin connector on the right hand side. Youre skipping lots of steps before getting there though. Youve already got to the pump and checked for voltage - what did you check, what with and what was the reading?

Its very weird what ETKA shows based on what youve told me. From 07.11.16 to 06.11.17 for the rear right door you had 2 options 5TA839016D (superseded to 5TA839016K) which had KESSY and SAFELOCK 5TA839016E (superseded to 5TA839016L) which came with or without KESSY and NO SAFELOCK There is literally no option between them dates for a 4H5 which is electronic child lock. Now its also very weird because from 07.11.17 onwards you have the 4H5 options which are 5TA839016H (superseded to 5TA839016N) which had Electronic child lock, Kessy, Safelock 5TA839016J (superseded to 5TA839016M) which had Electronic child lock, Kessy or no kessy, NO SAFELOCK So if your car has a build date of 08/01/2017 and has electronic child lock then it falls in to neither category. My guess is you are getting confused with the child lock - The drivers door switch has 2 options - either a single button which will just disable rear windows, or 2 buttons which will disable the rear windows and also disable the rear interior handle. Ive posted a picture below to show you.

Perfectly fine to do, theres a fairly heavy spring that pulls them shut so activate them and grab - try to grab the shaft, not the painted cap the caps can easily snap

You are correct SC42 is for the BCM but it will run lots of things, included in that list is the washers. Youre right though, id expect more signs than just washers inop, and on top of that, fuses arent a common thing to just 'blow' randomly. Fairly straight forward system in terms of components: Washer Stalk BCM Fuse Pump Wiring Connectors Id also want to know what terminal he is measuring the voltage at when pulling the stalk - make sure you check BOTH terminals for voltage as the pump can run in 2 directions.

Fuse number 42 in the interior fuse box - Boot lid, headlight washers, windscreen washer system Does your tailgate operate okay also?

Weirdly ive been having the same issue but with asdatyres today, its a very odd one, for some reason its saying card isnt registered at this address when it always has been.

He seems to have a 280 which is a ea888 TSI engine, no EGR valve. Exhaust scavenging is achieved through valve overlap. If there are no external leaks and that has been 100% verified then the only points of failure are - DSG Cooler, Heater matrix in the cabin, Oil cooler, Headgasket.

I believe this is done via the gateway dataset and creating a custom dataset yourself that enables this slider. I mean its from an MQB platform so its possible, just depends how hard really and if anyone has decrypted the relevant datasets.

If you let us know what door, what spec (electric child lock, safelock) you have and a build date i can tell you what the right part number is.

Another thing to add, are you sure you were checking the correct pump, as there are 2. I notice you also said no headlamp washers too, I’d be going right back to basics and checking the fuses first, I am guessing one has popped. other thing you can do to eliminate the wiring completely is find the plug at the pump and find the wire that is open circuit, the other should be short to ground. (Possibly both are open circuit) when pulling the wiper stalk the short to ground should move to the other terminal and the open circuit to the other. So swapping places. when pushing the stalk the opposite should happen. this will eliminate your ground and your wiring and just leave you with a power fault

Do the wipers themselves work? Id be looking at diagnostics next to see if the stalks are outputting a signal to the BCM. After this id be looking at bcm outputs.

The rubber seal around the filler neck isn’t air tight, it’s just an aesthetics thing as the entire filler neck is exposed under the car, wheel arch and such. the only thing it might be, if the rubber was getting pinched on the end of the filler neck preventing the cap from sealing properly

There is no cable, you’d have to make a custom loom that taps into the can network and even then you should not do this. Putting 2 of the same module on a canbus network will cause havoc as they will both have the same network ID and double up communications.

Please for the love of all things holy - DONT let halfords touch your car. Take it to a tow bar fitter or to a garage that has done them before. The reason is that vehicles nowadays often have dedicated wiring and a control module that all need coding with a few specific tools. Universal kits can be fitted which involves hacking into your wiring and leaves you with less features but its cheaper, personally if youre doing the job. Fit a fully functioning 13pin socket with dedicated wiring. If youre near north london feel free to drop me a message

hold the power button till the entire system reboots and you see the skoda logo again

Always gotta air on the side of caution but worst case could be its dropped a valve, rattled around in the cylinder and damaged all the cylinder walls, piston, cylinder head. Best case its a bent valve and broken rocker.

Is the car standard or have modifications and retrofits been made? When did it start happening? Any changes made? Have you checked for any fault codes? Wiring diagrams arent gonna do you much good without knowing what youre looking for, there is clearly power and ground as you can manually turn it on but there are many possible causes for communication issues. Something tells me that something isnt standard?

£12500 is a LOT for an engine swap. I would guess a brand new engine at that price? Personally id be getting a second opinion on the engine failure. Then if it really does need replacing, id get a second hand engine and would only expect to pay up to £1000 to fit it.

A open ground doesn’t always mean a faulty sensor. can mean dpf pressures are off the scale causing issues, broken wiring or any other manner of things. it may well be the sensor but doesn’t mean it’s the only thing it can be

A lot of people missing a clear cut case of water pump shroud seizing, id put money on it being that.