ApertureS

Personally I wouldn’t be worried about that at all. Aluminium doesn’t corrode in the same way as steel, that is surface corrosion and won’t get any worse. I wash my bay down with a pressure washer and multi purpose cleaner 1:10

Ah, so I’m not the only one that lost stuff back there in that hidden extra bit… it was sunglasses for me! Took a few weeks

Very much appreciated that you came back to relay to everyone the resolution. It will help a lot of people out in the future if they stumble across this thread. Glad you got it sorted though.

So now you’ve repaired the wire has the fault fixed itself? Also have you got a photo of what these broken wires are you’re talking about? also, why would you buy a car with a clear fault, if the dealer thinks it’s just a key battery, surely they would put a key battery in it for the sake of 50p. Sounds more like they are covering issues up. I also hope your front assist is only unavailable due to the tpms warning, if not, could be a expensive fix.

Lift the red tab, press down the red tab as you press the plug further on slightly. Will hear a very small click, pull plug off.

I promise you a vacuum doesnt touch half of it. What I do at work is remove the door completely, strip everything off of it, turn it upside down and vacuum what comes out, rinse and repeat about 10/15 times and you get 99% out. I hate rattles.

Pagid is one I do recommend, don’t think anyone has said otherwise? Brembo have nothing but issues. personally I go for ATE, TRW or Pagid. That’s all I would fit to my car and the first 2 are surprisingly what a large portion of manufactures use oe.

The dynamic indicators? What controls this, is it within the light units so no need to code more? And what allows the unlocking and locking shows?

There is a very key part that needs to go along with a laser wheel alignment tool, and that is a tech that has a clue what hes doing and does the job properly. Without it the machine is next to useless and youll have the same issue again. The last place I would be taking my car is to one of these fast fit chains, the techs there are often just fitters and dont know what they are doing except "green means good on the screen" - im not saying all fast fit tech's but personally I would be looking at an independent with a 4 wheel alignment machine. Please also reply to the first comment on this post by myself to give us a bit more understanding on the current situation.

Did anyone find out what coding @AlVal done in its entirety?

A little tip for you - I used to work at a well known retail chain of automotive stuff (and pedal bikes)... mentioning no names. From day 1 i was taught - you need to sell people going to EU a long list of things including bulbs, breathalyzers, high viz jackets, fire extinguisher. I subsequently got called in to the office as I was telling people that carrying bulbs is all well and good, but did they have any idea how to change them, most said no, so i said no point. I done my own research and breath tests arent even a requirement, it was more a scare tactic. And the only one i recommend is a high viz jacket and thats useful no matter what country you are in. Just keep it in the back of your seat or glovebox, its no use if youre hunting for it in the boot and get chopped in half by a rear ender....

You will have either 5A or 5C immobiliser protocols. Personally I don’t think it’s the right one and believe the A that should be at the end of the cluster part number dictates the newer immobiliser used from 2019ish onwards

Just because a diagnostic tool says a sensor is ‘faulty’ does not mean it’s faulty. there is a huge amount more to diagnosis than just plugging a code reader in. Before considering replacing a sensor you need to find out if it’s telling the truth and giving a erroneous value because there is a fault somewhere else or if the sensor is actually faulty.

Not at all. the variable boot floor isn’t just a floor panel. It involves new side panels too and some hinges. the pieces from a 2010 are not at all similar to a brand new superb sadly. If you wanted the boot floor that much someone could get them in the U.K. and ship to you but it wouldn’t be that cheap. or go to a Skoda dealer with the part numbers over there

Who is doing the alignment? What kind of alignment are they doing? What equipment are they using? Did you get a print out? Its either a failed suspension component or bad geometry

You need to be careful with second hand instrument clusters. Im not saying this one is but many are stolen. When you come to fitting it in the car and carrying out component protection FAZIT may deny the unlock of component protection if the display or vehicle has been stolen or even sometimes written off. Personally I would be looking at a brand new one from Aliexpress for around £550 - No worries then and the mileage is 0 so when coded can be set to current mileage, wont have to pay an additional cost to have the mileage rolled forward.

I believe it’s an adaptation in Baps - car menus called something like seat_menu or drivers_seat sorry don’t have my admap to hand currently

No harm in trying but honestly. Shocks have failed much quicker than that on some peoples, the quality of the newer vw shocks after about 2015 is... excuse the pun. SHOCKING. Skoda/vw do not warranty them often, they’ll have a list of excuses that suit them in this situation and rattle that off, give you a nice big quote for replacement and send you on your way.

Something like this is what youll need. EDIT: Wrong part number Correct part number is 1Z5955985 which is the jet from the rear brake light It will be blocked up, its not worth cleaning for the price of it.

If you were looking to buy one actually made for your car you’d be looking at nearly £100 with the correct bulbs including xenon. if I was you I’d just get the cheapest kit you can as the chances of a bulb failure, you having the tools to change it and having the correct bulb is slim to none

Any guess we make will sadly be just a guess. it could be anything from a misaligned radar sensor to a wheel bearing to a parking sensor. the only way of leading you in the right direction is by plugging it into a diagnostic computer

Surprising amount of data that can be done and messed with in the gateway dataset. Glad you got it all done fairly simply. My next retrofit will be DCC so now it’s just a case of working out if as well as FPA if it is a SWaP code needed as well. once done this will be a no brainier to add to it and enhance it.

Sump plug needs replacing or at least the washer. Sump plug (comes with washer) - N90288901 Sump plug washer alone - N0138158 If you go somewhere like eurocarparts they can supply a non genuine one.

What engine are we talking about? we need to know engine size and fuel and year.

Maybe going to a old dash cam, black box or something? Did you trace the wires?