ApertureS

The 1.5tsi which is basically a 1.4tsi need a special tool to set up the valve timing. It’s very expensive and not many will invest in it for the small return. many people are quoting prices without the engine they have. Tdi are completely different to tsi timing belts. but even so, the prices you’ve been quoted are exterosionate!

Just something to add from my experience. I completely get that the service manual shows pushing the piston back with no pads. In this situation its completely fine. There are 2 situations where it is not fine though. 1. Multi piston calipers. Youll be there all day fighting the pistons back, just leave the pads in and push back on them. 2. Ceramic pistons - Some expensive calipers have pistons made of a ceramic material - if you even try to push back straight on the piston youll crack it and they aint cheap.... Use the pads, make sure its completely square and push away.

Never base a timing belt off a different cars belt intervals. Different belts are made from different materials, under completely different stresses, different width so more load spread. Its not a one size fits all question and its a dangerous way to think about it.

There will be stored fault codes relating to this. a scan of the vehicle is first required. Possible faulty strut or lost its basic settings

I dont know how this would work, currently all theory. I am looking at finding a superb with the factory fitted lights and taking a full oscilloscope map of all the relevant pin outs. Then possibly creating a lin/pwm emulator to mimic what is required for the closing animation if anything. If the diy emulator works i can create a small batch at home of circuit boards that could simply need soldering in place. This is all theory until i get a hold of the car - it might just be a power issue or something else. So first things first - With their retrofitted taillamp setup, what happens to the rear lights with the bcm pin connected. Do the dynamic indicator animations and opening animations still function okay? Or does connecting the bcm pin actually effect something?

Thats on me for not bothering to check for what engine we were talking about! My bad!

There is no yes or no answer sadly. The fact your water pump could fail any time and as its timing belt driven, can cause engine failure. If any part of the camshaft drive system is noisy, get it sorted instantly, dont wait around.

Yeah that’s it spot on. Couldn’t of said it better myself.

That could be part of the issue if you’re just throwing normal OAT/pink coolant in. these cars are meant to have G13 coolant or evo coolant which is a more purple/violet colour. it’s a different composition and it is a small possibility this could be causing the corrosion.

Floating on a raft till it washed up in the UK

Well... this is a really odd one isnt it! The only 'correct' way they can resolve the issue is by issuing the correct SVM code to the vehicle so Skoda's system is up to date with it now being UK spec. I cant believe someone would import a car to the UK from australia, just to sell it? Or more than someone owned it for 2 years and didnt realise if it was in the wrong country Good luck! be interesting to find out the cause and reason.

This is very very helpful for a lot of people! Well done! Also something to add for people L0L and L0R will sometimes be displayed on the wiring diagrams - this relates to left hand drive or right hand drive.

There will always be a small amount in the header tank, its not a hollow bowl, there are valleys and troths and coolant will get caught in there, the amount in there would hardly be enough to cause that level of corrosion. What coolant are you using, as in specifically what coolant. And how are you diluting it?

Thats reasonable as long as all pulleys and tensioner is also being replaced.

So there are procedures in place to reuse the timing belt as noted in the vehicle repair manual - Dealers will do it. Most independents will not even think of reusing a belt. Personally, for peace of mind and price, I would not be reusing it and as they are not charging you labor, id just go for it. The kit itself is hopefully under £300 if theyre changing pulleys and tensioners as well. (Yes sometimes tensioners and pulleys are not changed!!! crazy) Me personally, I wouldnt be reusing the belt and would be replacing.

The 1.4/1.5 TSI water pumps are fairly fool proof, Ive never changed one due to failure personally. Finally an engine they didnt put dodgy water pumps on

Do not push a stick/tube down the pipes!!! There is a good chance you’ll detach them and if it’s anything like the older ones, they will never go back on properly and you’ll have to replace. the blockage will be in 2 places. Where the tube starts at the sunroof which you have cleaned. And in the wheel arch front and rear where the tube ends. the best way to describe it is like a cows udder but in black. And it will be blocked solid with dirt, if you find it in the wheel arches and either open it up and clean it out or massage it and all the dirt will break apart and fall out. Then flush it through with water from above and clean it fully

I dont think that comes down to gender. The people that work in the showroom/aftersales 99% of the time have about as much knowledge as a 10 page powerpoint presentation when they first joined that covers the bare minimum. Male/Female doesnt matter theyre main job is simply to book vehicles in and not provide any technical knowledge. That being said, sometimes the 'technicians' have just as much knowledge as front of house staff... ie, none.

Any rigid glue you use will break unless the area is prepped properly. I think the best solution that never fails that a DIYer can do is cable tie stitching.

Probably done you a favor by not washing it... swirl central! Everything else, sounds like rubbish, id be making sure all the software is up to date and telling them to check again when the skoda factory is online? at their expense, not yours. Always book servicing online, its done at a fixed price.

By headunit do you mean the display itself or 5F infotainment control unit? What is the actual fault you are experiencing? What is the diagnosis/cause the dealer found? If the unit boots up and you can access it, hold the menu button for 10 seconds and send a photo of the part numbers displayed on the screen. A second hand unit can be fitted but it needs coding, adapting, swap codes sorting and component protection. To do this all properly you need the main dealer diagnostic tool

Sadly thats not how things work, in fact its the opposite. If you keep replacing the part and it keeps failing its a question of 2 things - The part is of a really bad quality every time. Or something ELSE is causing it to fail. I would first be checking the condition and concentration of that coolant, making sure its the correct one for the car and not just rubbish.

You simply wont find a aftermarket option that does every factory car related option. None exist as there are so many variants. You will also probably lose the canton sound system as I dont think there are any aftermarket units that do the MOST output required. Depending what car, what year and what radio you might be better off looking at a genuine retrofit of a newer system. Software/Firmware updates can only be carried out using a main dealer tool either with a SVM code or by knowing what is applicable to that unit.

That is extremely cheap, mind you it was a few years ago. Most places charge around £6-800 for the job now including water pump. I personally charge my customers just short of £450 if its for the 1.6 or 2.0 tdi engine including a new water pump and coolant replacement. (Watch out cause a lot of dealers will quote without water pump then add that on after) EDIT: Regarding actual time scales and everything - Skoda for the UK market recommend every 5 years. Can it last longer? Probably Will it last longer? Probably Would I like to test it and find out? No thank you I would stick to the 5 years personally and not try and scrimp on something that could end up costing a lot more in the long run.

When you say the mirror failing, its a fairly involved system. There are 4 wires running to a hub behind the mirror glass - these control 2 motors in each direction. These are controlled by the door control module. To correctly diagnose youll need to remove the glass and the hub and check for the correct voltage at each of the 4 pins when the mirror is moved. The opposing pin should switch to ground. If all of these test okay youll need to then check the motors themselves to see if they function. This should put you in the right direction. A fault scan of the door module will also give a better understanding and id expect a open/short code to be stored.