ApertureS

You’re looking about £450 parts and I believe the book time is 4 hours or so + coolant flush and a run up so like the guy bellow said, you’re looking about £700 or so

A lot of them things are still extras even on the L&K, such as the virtual cockpit and SLA headlights

You cant take something that you 'think' is the truth and tell people its the truth and the cause. Ive replaced somewhere between 50 and 100 of these water pumps on both longitudinal and horizontal engines and its not as simple as 'replace a water pump seal'

Yes it does. For stiffer suspension you would want dynamic chassis control which allows it to be adjusted

The superb mk3 is a MQB platform car so the suspension is shared with passat, golf, leon and a load of other cars. That being said there are variants such as weight, handling, ride height and such. All depends on what the car left the factory with and how it was set up, but the actual parts themself will look the same on the outside. Sportline and L&K are more styling packs and optional extras than full on changes - the ride height is the same on both and on all superbs infact except for Scouts.

Not at all what the issue is, there are 3 main failure points on these - The actual bearing goes on the pump and it leaks from the shaft - The seal between pump and thermostat housing leaks - The seals all around the thermostat housing leak as there are so many joins either rubber seals or plastic welds - this is the main one. You would be very very silly to just change a seal - if it is a changeable part even - get a new pump, thermostat housing and small cotton reel piece between thermostat and oil cooler. Thats all you need and theres no point only doing half a job.

Probably had a upgraded 5F control unit or someone has modified it, The long coding will be set wrong

Yes, chances are you have a faulty parking sensor causing your issue

It states blind spot or manoeuvre assist faults? Because they are two different systems

By 280 I assume a 2.0 tsi, these don’t have a belt driven water pump in the traditional sense. they have a electric water pump on the front of the engine that is run by a tiny belt also. This housing and pump is prone to leaks. Most likely will be this. Can be seen by looking up from the underneath at the front of the engine

Whats your issue with blind spot monitoring?

Just because there is a fault for a part doesn’t mean that part needs replacing. Not often a turbo actuator code is actually the actuator, generally caused by something else. There are a lot of other components in that system that can cause symptoms and faults you’re displaying. good enough for a pointer is really not good enough when you’re trying to pin point a fault. A OBD generic fault code is exactly that, generic, manufacturers hide a huge amount of helpful information inside a fault package such a details at the time of the fault like boost pressures, positions and voltages, all of this would help find the cause of the fault. Basically what I’m saying is it’s hard or near impossible to find a fault and repair it without the correct diagnostic tools in the first place. Else you’re just throwing parts at a problem unnecessarily

Plugging into the obd port is a terrible idea seen as signals go through it that are prone to interference. the dab antenna is on the rear window so it won’t be a direct issue, more electrical interference

Turn off voice enhancement in the sound settings menu - set it all the way to 0.

Whatever app you are using is giving you a lot of odd fault codes that will not be 100% specific to the fault. It needs to be read with odis or vcds to see what’s left in there properly. Chances are you now have engine faults that need resolving and without 100% accurate fault reading we can’t help.

Using a generic fault code reader won’t help you get an closer with a fault like this, needs a brand specific reader really. if you’re looking for the sensor though, look on the left side of the engine straight down at the front of the car, it is sitting on the lower coolant pipe facing straight upwards. That’s if it is that causing it

Oh this is the same person! I thought i recognised the name!! Still not sure why the rash decision to fit a gearbox without full diagnosis and repair of the engine faults first.

What were the before fault codes, and what was the before symptoms?

Name and shame them. Whether it is the correct code gearbox or not, it would never just fit and start. Even a brand new gearbox from the dealership never been in a car but with the exact code would need plugging in and coding correctly.

Yeah that’s about what I’d charge for the online side of it if he’s coming out to you.

I completely agree with you. Sounds like your mechanic has no access to the required software or knows what he’s doing. nothing on any car in the last 10 years that has electrical components is as simple as plug and play. Everything will need some kind of coding or calibration. where are you based as I do have ODIS?

Yeah that needs the following running on it; - Module 02 module replacement - new module or if not that way it will need component protection, svm, immobiliser coding, adaptation reset, adaptation learn, drive adaptation learn only then can you hope for the best. all of this can only be done with odis, no aftermarket tool can do it, only genuine dealer software

Literally the wrong box for the car. As the mk2 uses a different immobiliser system and an older mechatronic controller it won’t be able to be flashed with newer firmware as it’s not supported. The only thing you could possibly try is using ODIS (no other tool will do it) and run the immobiliser service function to see if it resolves the issue - this will have to be done with the correct gearbox too, but I believe when the tool reads that it’s not the correct box it will straight up refuse to allow it and you’ll be stuck in this same situation.

Behind the glovebox, need to drop the glovebox down and remove the check strap from the side.