ApertureS

I’m not saying tyres don’t have issues of defects, I’m saying it’s not a wide spread issue to a specific type of tyre, you said it happened to you on lots of different brands and types so it does happen. But claiming it’s a common issue on a specific tyre on a specific car is far fetched in my opinion. the P7s are **** yes and crack really bad, but I’ve never seen one do what the gent is suggesting without interference from something else causing it. I mentioned suspension bushes because worn bushes can cause wear on tyres in weird ways, they move too much under load and cause inner edge wear, this won’t be picked up during static tests like tracking or MOTs is just what I’m trying to say. I don’t work for any tyre companies or main dealers just been working on cars for years and if a tyre is worn to exposed cords on the inner edges only then it’s normally something that’s caused it - or it’s a rear bmw tyre and completely normal all I’m saying with parts/tyres distribution people is I wouldn’t trust a thing they say, ever asked someone in euro car parts a question

I think you might struggle, if they were brand new or near enough you’d probably be able to argue it, they’ll just blame it on hard use or user error

How low are the pads?

You are the only person that’s complained of this issue, not a single other person. an MOT does not check a suspension bush in that way, it checks the bare minimum ie. noisy and is it falling apart. It could still have a lot of movement and be wearing out. I still doubt your mechanic heard any of this down the phone and if they’ve been doing it long enough they ain’t gonna ask the supplier for recommendations they’ll have they’re go to budget, mid and premium tyres to offer customers. How and when was the tracking checked exactly? Seems odd you’ve said it’s been checked if you haven’t had any issues, why did you get it checked? something doesn’t add up with this claim at all.

Any diagnostic device will talk to the gateway only, in term this will talk to all other modules. The issue with carista is it wont be able to extract all the useful data from a fault packet, sometimes even getting confused and reading the fault code incorrectly.

I completely doubt every single part of what your mechanic has said to you... They dont phone a tyre supplier and tell them the make and model, it means nothing to them, they tell them tyre size, rating and what brand theyre after, a tyre supplier is never gonna get enough information from customers about a specific make and model of tyre on a specific make and model of car to come to that conclusion. If your tyres are completely worn to cords on the inside edges then there will be 3 things that can cause it, lots of half size speed bumps, lower arm bushes failing or the main one, tracking is out, wheels are toeing out and scrubbing the inside face.

You can only select and deselect because thats all a bit is, a 1 or a 0. on or off. A byte is made up of 8 bits, so each bit can be 0 or 1, meaning you could have 00000000 through to 11111111 When i say bits 3-6 make the variant up i mean the following 000XXXX0 the 4 X's are your bits 3-6 (the first bit is always called 0, not 1) and the first bit is always on the right of the byte then between these 4 X bits you can make up to 17 number combinations. so 08 would be ???0001? Thats the basics of bits and bytes and long coding. So if you used vcds you would get a drop down menu to make it easy to select the options, might not give a good description but will give you a max of 17 options, whatever software youre using isnt gonna be that simple, instead youre gonna have to just experiment with them to see what luck you get. Give this a try 00001001

Okay so what ive found Byte 2 - Bit 3-6 are for vehicle variant. 08 - Vehicle variant 1 - combi Thats for the estate version, maybe try variant 2 and so on to see what one is the hatch.

These bytes relate to the model spec code. There is a chart online that lists a lot of them including Skoda. I don’t have it to hand but if you do some research online you’ll find it, I believe it was a polish or Russian website

Sounds like you’ve over extended the calipers, completely past their stops and the chances of getting them to rethread without damaging seals is fairly slim... trust me it happens to the best of us and never went back on, calipers were replaced In the end. the best way of trying is to take them off the car completely and remove the motor and manually try to rewind it

Just in ABS? Not in engine or gearbox or anything else?

What module have you read these fault codes from? Is it gateway, engine, abs...? Or is it stored in lots of modules. Honestly though a generic handheld scanner will give the bare minimum data, really need a specific tool for the job

Only a year late either way; You have to stand near the tailgate within a few meters and hold the key fob to close it.

On the bulkhead is a metal plate that the negative terminal bolts to. Use that

If you look up the elk test (moose test) most cars begin to fail it at 43-50mph/70-80kmh. So when the spare wheel is rated for 50mph only, at this point the car is already failing the elk test so the spare wheel will have a very minimal factor in it. No one is saying a drunk driver is safe? And not once did i mention anything was safe, nothing about driving is safe in the slightest, metal shells held together with lots of single points of failure that can go at very high speeds, nothing about it is safe. it’s about working out risk and minimalising it as best possible. And that includes a space saver spare wheel, it is there to reduce the risk of you being in danger at the side of the road and allow you to either get to a place of safety or get to a garage because there is less risk than sitting at the side of the road. Just shows people can argue over literally anything, it wouldn’t be in the car if it wasn’t fit for purpose.

Hence why there are speed restrictions and distance restrictions. also you’re completely aware you have a spare wheel on because you’ve just fitted it. any conscious driver isn’t about to go rally driving with it on 😂😂 driving with a fit for purpose space saver is in no way comparable to driving with faulty brakes.

You can’t fit a 205 on that rim no. your best bet if you want the almost right size wheel and tyre is just to buy one off a scrap car. Both kinds of space saver whether the bike tyre or the almost full size still have max speed ratings and time you can drive on it. you also need different foam and securing pieces for the boot as the size is different

BCM is what controls the ambient lighting yes. Disconnecting the battery would reset it yes, so its worth a try. Not sure why a new thread was needed for the same issue though? Should just carry on the old one.

Wireless android auto or carplay is only on the new mib3 units which are 2019 onwards and even then it was an upgrade. spoiler: mib3 is definitely not an upgrade with all the bugs in it

That is not the right one, thats for a mk2 octavia. The one you are after i have loads in stock, £25 posted in the uk. Looks like these photo i found on google:

Well that’s the first part of the canton retrofit done in the rain. I’ll save the interior strip out for a drier day. I’ll do my best to take as many pictures and write a guide as I go. Not that i think anyone else would be crazy enough to carry this out.

It could mean absolutely nothing and be a glitch in the system or could be a fault code. Needs reading with a code reader to find out.

Dealer will charge you probably 10x what it would cost to do yourself, its less than 5 minutes work.

Have you checked the settings in background settings havent been turned off?

im assuming you have predictive cruise control? This speed control feature can be turned off in the menu