ApertureS

Refurbishing shocks is not a cheap thing and generally only reserved for 1 off's or specialist items. Passenger car shocks, including DCC shocks are normally cheaper to buy new than get repaired. We send a few sets of shocks for refurb on some of our cars but thats because they are specialist and made only for these cars and the shocks cost in the 10's of thousands

If the high pressure pump is breaking up, fuel will go via the fuel rail to the return and back to the tank, then will get drawn into the filter that way.

All coded, dataset done, coding was fairly simple on that front. if you wanted to share your sound system long coding it wouldn’t harm to compare the 2 though I suppose? thanks

Well finally all the wires are ran, all the NS speakers are fitted, looms modified, dash speaker, subwoofer and everything else fitted. Component protection removed, dataset corrected, all coding done, speakers are working and no fault codes - except the OS speakers still to fit and os loom to modify. All using genuine wire colours, correct sizes, oem parts and all fitted as if it left the factory with Canton. Just got to get a hold of a pair of front canton door cards with the swede material.

Will need plugging in to find out the fault codes im assuming it’s a 7 speed auto, if so with that kind of mileage you’re probably due a clutch pack... possibly slipping and disengaging.

ah, for tv tuner you remove the black one and fit the yellow ones i assume you have, there are 3 of them and 1 is in the tailgate also. I believe the side window amplifiers are in the top of the frame under the headliner.

You can get generic units like this, but like the advert says you only get the following functions retained "It Comes With Canbus Adapter and Pre-installed CarInfo app which instead of OBD2, Support Steering Wheel Control,Air conditional display,Radar/Parking Sensor and Door Information display." Youre gonna loose all your vehicle settings menu, service indicator, driver assistance menu, if you have canton or virtual cockpit will make both of them not function. Basically youre loosing a lot more than youll gain

Fair enough so very early spec had the tv tuner, not a bad extra.

Silly question but, have you tried just clicking on it?

Front assist doesn’t use any lanes or lines... That is lane assist, completely different Not sure why the service manager is trying to fob you off if they can’t fix it it. When they ‘disabled’ front assist did the warning disappear?

Dealer techs aren’t exactly the smartest bunch, hence why odis never gives more that 4/5 options and most of the time it’s follow the instructions and press the next button. there is no button to disable front assist and requires someone that’s pretty smart to code it out and it’s a lot more effort than it’s worth, so you need to take it back to them and find out what they’ve actually done

L&K doesn’t have a tv tuner as standard sorry, it was a very rare extra that I don’t think was optioned in the U.K., have you got any pictures or specs to show it? and regarding aftermarket - you can’t fit aftermarket, the infotainment system is integral to the operation of the car and it needs to be there.

Plus i believe on the very early mk3's they used a lower spec gateway and bcm, so not saying you would run into issues but there may be issues down the line with error codes or faults without these being upgraded. Im still very interested to see this TV tuner in a uk spec car

Also, please if you are going to post a full vcds, try and put it inside code tags, takes up a huge amount less space just keeps things cleaner. like this

Are you sure it has a TV tuner as that wasnt normally specced in the UK models. Regarding swapping, its far from a simple job and isnt just a plug and play, these cars have a lot of hidden coding and features. The radio can be upgraded to a newer mib2 or mib2.5 unit but it isnt a cheap or easy process.

A main dealer turning off the front assist would be a weird one... and something that they shouldn’t do and is fairly hard to actually do. possibly not been coded correctly using svm. either way I’d be taking it back to them to put right. something that I could look at if you’re local but you shouldn’t be having to pay me to look at something they should of fixed. traffic assist can’t be coded without having adaptive cruise control, depending on your model this can be added. Full traffic assist uses the front facing assist camera which I doubt your model has if it doesn’t have acc.

There are amplifiers on the side windows and the rear window, you sure you know which one needs replacing? remove the d pillar is just a pop off job. removing the c pillar involved removing the boot side trim - the plastic upper part, not the lower fabric part

Different uses but a scope is better for signals. honestly though by the time you’ve spent all this money on tools and equipment it would of been cheaper for a main dealer even to diagnose it you sure you want to spend all this money on tools dude

It doesnt mean other wires arent damaged though, might not be visible without a proper wiring test. Clear all the codes, drive the car for a few days then post a new scan, im guessing youve had flat batteries and all sorts by them codes?

Makes much more sense, different pads will all come at different thicknesses, some porsche pads are brand new at 4mm. Percentages gives a much more accurate wear indicator than saying 3mm worn, on the porsche thats 75% worn, on a skoda superb that could only be 30% worn Hopefully your goodwill gesture comes through.

2 diagrams attached G69/J338 is your throttle body. Pin 1 will have 5V permanent 3 will have a ground permanent 2 will be a signal varying between 0.5 and 4.5v depending on the position of the flap 4 will be a pwm 12v switched signal/ground 5 will be a pwn 12v switched signal/ground N75 is in the second diagram - your boost solenoid - youve had issues in the past with this as pin 1 is fed by fuse 4 which youve already fixed i hope? What was the outcome for this? pin 2 is a switched ground to the engine ecu J623 Youre gonna need a multimeter at worst and a scope of some kind at best to even start finding these faults.

There is a huge amount to work through but the starting faults to work through are the throttle actuator and the boost solenoid. Ill get back to you with details.

Thats a whole bunch of faults... is that what returns after a code clear, and a drive? I did say in the last thread that having something like VCDS would help a lot, but its still near impossible to diagnose something like this over the internet. Youre gonna need to go back to basics, checking voltages at the actuators, checking wiring continuity and for shorts. I believe you were the same person that had faulty wiring and a very oily engine that was causing all kinds of other issues too? Already on the case

Apologies for not reading that part, split and showing cords/wires due to perishing rather than wear. Id personally use some Bridgestone's or Goodyear's much better quality than Pirelli. I still stand by my word on parts/tyre suppliers though.

Some more content from the Canton retrofit, this wind and rain is hampering efforts. Subwoofer fitted and wiring ran for the subwoofer and offside door wiring. also ran my blind spot assist wiring whilst I was here