CupraR-Rog

155/70 R13?? Had this size on my sister's old Panda going back a few years... *new* tyres then were only

Next time I go to Brunty, I'll remember to take a spare pair of pants with me!! I don't know whether it was the tyre that spun the car, or the spinning of the car that did the tyre... all I know is part way through the corner things started going very wrong, and I came out of it travelling very sideways... ...not bad when, right before I spun, the speedo needle was somewhere between 110 - 120mph :-o Car felt very stable going sideways at those speeds tho!!

Anyone happen to get any pics / vids of my little incident?? Probably not, I mean, it was so small & minor... bet 99% of you didn't even realise it had happened!!

Everyone needs their trademark piece... Walkie & his bag it is!!!

:eek:

e-mail [email protected] and see if he's any ds2500's in your fitment. I've got front & rears on the way for my LCR - brembo fronts as well, so if yours are the same fitment as mine... ...Oh, and also, ask Bill what he thinks from experience of drilled discs!! GOOD LUCK!!

I've seen that silver Octy on all the motorways around Birmingham - M5, M6, M42...

On my father's old Volvo S70 T5, the headlight switch had a second 3-way switch in the corner (adjustable by screwdriver) that allowed the following: Position 1 - Off is off, sidelights is sidelights, dipped is dipped Position 2 - Off is dipped without dash lit, sidelights is sidelights (dash lit), dipped is dipped Position 3 - Off is dipped without dash lit, sidelights is dipped (dash lit), dipped is dipped. Ok, the position numbers are probably wrong, and as we sold the car nearly 2 years ago, I can't go and read the manual to check...

Definately a bit different to the euro-vRS!! Top marks to Skoda for getting, to quote the report, the first and only turbo'd petrol in India!!

They could be bridged down to 1 ohm EACH, which means you have 3 options of what to show your amp... 0.5 Ohms Parallel (good luck finding an amp stable at that!) 2 Ohms... Series coils, parallel subs... Hmmm... not good if you have an amp that's 1 Ohm stable... but good if you haven't!! 8 Ohms all series... Don't go there!! If you get 2 of the dual 4 ohm versions, You can parallel up the coils on each sub to give a 2 ohm load. Parallel the subs again when you connect them to the amp and the amp will see 1 ohm load. BUT... NOW is the time to choose your amp!! If you get an amp that's only 2 ohm stable, then get 2 of the dual-2 Ohm versions. If the amp is 1 Ohm stable, then get a pair of the dual- 4 Ohms. Hope that makes sense!!

600W at 1 Ohm, into a dual-2 Ohm sub wired in parallel, i.e. 1 Ohm. On the landing (well away from my computer after what just happened to my TV!) I have 2 x Dual-4 Ohm subs, which will be all wired up in parallel to still give a 1 Ohm load to the amp, but with 2 subs instead of 1.

Why?

Not many, if ANY amps will be stable when bridged at 1 Ohm - this will really restrict your options!! However, if your subs can be run at a total load of 2 Ohms, then this option is still open for you. Best bet would be to get a single channel amp for your subs, and a 2 channel amp for your components. Don't be afraid of running a higher wattage amp than your subs / speakers are rated at - just have the gains turned down a little!! (I currently run 600W into a 500W sub (soon to be dual subs tho!), and 75W into 60W (I think!) components). As you're not going to be running any bass to your components (make sure you get an amp that has high pass filters!), you can afford to crank the power up that bit higher! Just listen out for distortion when you're setting your gains!! Alternatively, if you really want to splash out... Get a 4 channel amp for the components, and mount the crossover before the inputs... that way your can run your mids and tweeters from seperate channels, giving you a better sound, and more scope to tweak the settings! However, if that's then the route you want to go, you could then look at 5 channel amps. I run a Directed 1100d5 which serves me well. Good luck, and remember, don't rush in to anything!

When it comes to subs, like with anything you really do get what you pay for. Your problems with the Vibe, as have already been said on this thread, come more from it being an entry level sub in a ported enclosure - never a good thing!! Spend some money on a 12" sub (I'm currently using Rockford Fosgate P3's, not outrageous money, but not too expensive either), and a correct size enclosure (sealed), spend some time setting your crossovers and gains and you'll have great sounding bass! 10" subs are generally said to be better for fast beat music - the smaller cone taking less effort to move, and so the sub can react quicker to fast paced music. I hear a lot of mixed reports on which is best, a 10" or a 12"... most of the SQ competition cars I see run 12", but then there are some ice addicts out there that swear by the sound of the 10". Some people say the only difference is in the very low frequencies - the 12" will go that bit lower which is good if you watch movies in your car... At the end of the day, the best thing to do would be to listen to as many subs as you can to see which sounds right for you. Also, a bit of advice straight from me - make sure your amp has a remote subwoofer gain control - I'm always adjusting mine with different CD's!! Hope you find what you're looking for!

Hope that system works better there than it does here!! Reported a theft here by the online system... ...Police told me a while later when I queried whether they'd found anything out about it, that they had no record of the e-mail. Also, going to the station doesn't guarantee they'll keep records - had that a few times as well!!

I find the required pressure varys more with the tyre than the size... for example... 225/40ZR18 Pirelli P-Zero Rosso - favorable pressure 36 - 38psi all around Vredestein Ultrac - front 31psi, rear 28 - 29psi Goodyear Eagle GSD3 - 31 - 33psi all around So basically, stick them at the recommended pressure in your handbook, and tweak them from there!

Alternator whine is a pain, isn't it? Double-check all your power cables, and especially check that ypur earth is tight as tight can be against the chassis. Good luck getting it sorted!!

:wave23d:

But, in order for an officer to be familiar with the car and conditions, this means that EVERY DAY he or she would need to drive EVERY road in the police district due to changes in weather, surface, surface dirt etc etc, so that argument also doesn't wash in my book!! Also, I'm struggling to come to terms how the part of the law which says that emergency vehicles do not have to stick to speed limits if it would hinder their progress can come into play here... Surely that is written to mean their progress in an emergency situation?? Otherwise, well, next time a copper comes to my work, I might ask him to take me on a high speed run to the supermarket - perfectly legal as the police car is on the road, making progress, and we would certainly get there quicker if we were doing 84 in the 30 zone instead of 30!! OK, I know I'm being cynical here, but it is how it appears to me!

:wave:

You lucky Skoda peeps running atmos valves :( On my LCR pre-remap, I lasted about 800 miles before the limp mode when I tried the atmos :(

Personally, I think a limit of 90 - 100mph would be better for modern cars on modern motorways. This may lead to a fairly large speed differential between cars and HGV's (even if you raise the HGV speed limit, I don't think many companies will raise their limiters, as I think the limit for lorries is actually 60mph anyway, but companies choose 56mph to save on fuel... but correct me if I'm wrong!), but in all honesty, even with the limit raised I don't think there will be that many people travelling much faster than they already do on the motorways because of fuel efficiency... think about it, the 85th percentile speed on our motorways is already 85mph, all we would be doing is legalising the speeds that the majority of the motorway users travel at, leaving the police free to catch the wreckless drivers... :rant:...or better still, take the statement from me I've been waiting for them to take since MARCH regarding an assult, or get back to me about a complaint I raised about one of their van drivers (travelling in excess of 70mph as well as doing what I complained about) I made back in FEB! :rant:

I drove both the 180 Cupra (as it was then) as well as the LCR before making my decision. Both are very capable cars out on the road, but with very different set-ups... The Cupra / FR is a comfortable and competant car. It will take what you throw at it while giving you a smooth ride without too much bodyroll. The LCR has been set up more sportily, so you do feel the bumps more, have more feedback etc, but the set-up of the car does mean that it will lean on the corners more than you would expect. To me, the Cupra felt a bit too much like the Volvo T5 my father had at the time - a comfortable, fast cruiser, where-as the R felt more of the hot hatch racer. On the motorways tho, other than the power under your right foot, there's not really much difference to the ride comfort. All I can say is to try both cars, preferably on the same roads. Don't let any dealer tell you that "the only difference is that the R is a bit stiffer than the FR" or anything like that, as the suspension set-ups (spring rates, damping rates and anti-roll bars, as well as rear axel ride height and front subframe) are different between the two cars (strangely, the R having the smaller anti-roll bars!) If you ask this question over on seatcupra.net you will get loads of answers from people that have owned both, rather than basing things on a memory of a test drive... One thing I will say though is that, the Leon is essentially an Octy... other than the cosmetic differences, the main differences in the cars lie in the size of the boot, the octy being the bigger.

If the biscuits are only past their Best Before, then there's no problem!! If they're past their Use By, then throw them in the bin!! Mo's already typed up the law so there's no going over that again... just remember the terms "Best Before" means best quality before that date, and "Use By" means exactly that... Items with a "Display Until" date usually have a "Use By" of 2 days after... Lesson here is to check the date of the produce you buy

:eek: :thumbdwn: You're only jealouse because us SEAT's get more powerful engines than you!! In terms of oil, always use the correct VW type for your engine... afterall, it is the life blood of your car, and using the wrong time could end up costing you your engine. Millers does seem to get recommended for you sooties everywhere I look tho, so must be good stuff!!