Former

Yeah this is a right PITA. With new battery, did get it 'coded' in. For resetting the trip isn't there a wide button beneath the multidot display with "0.0 /SET" on it that you press to reset trip? If not can you got through the infotainment on the CAR menu and try resetting all mileages to see if the car will accept that to get its brain straight. I'm not not sure about what you mean fuel gauge, isn't the 1/1 in your photo meaning the tailgate open warning is 1 of 1 warning? If I wasn't getting a reset on refuelling I'd check any button switches I can get at around the fuel filler push in and pop out again. Or for both trip and refuel I might also if required try disconnecting the battery and leave it off for a few minutes as a "switch it off 'n' on agen" for the stupid computers and IIRC, I think, it clears the trip but I might be wrong about that, I forget a lot. Isn't the 1/1 in your photo meaning the tailgate open is 1 of 1 warning? I might have lost track a bit, are you just down to the tailgate error which could be mechanical, electrical, electronics? If you have more electrical/electronic issues then you may need a good auto-electrician to properly do diagnosis and check and cross-reference that diagnosis and check and cross-reference any repair made to check it fully resolves the issue(s). Seen some 2019 cars on here with faulty main fuseboxes which were missed by Dealerships, garages and mechanics (IIRC the auto-electrician failed to turn up, typical in UK), and I wonder if the car has seen any water get in or condensation, or been subject to flood particularly if you've not owned the car from new, and affected the modules or other and/or connectors and connections and wiring.

@lingho in case you missed my error, sorry. Sorry again, in your photo I can't even see any bulbs, don't give up your day job for photographer. I think I've seen before that they might be H4 but again don't rely on me for this but manufacturers and suppliers often have databases of such info on their websites. Many/most(?) car manufacturers list the types of bulbs in the Owner's Manual but oh, no, not with VWŠkoda, one of a few omissions or secrets they keep out of those publications. Your photo at least shows the light cover isn't dirty or badly scratched or fogged up.

Thanks. I did wonder but those at Classic would have pointed out my error and not just sell the items like some. I'm more used to cars from the 1960s and 70s where they were allowed a few years back (subject to lenses pattern matching) and on looking it up I see the LED bulbs are only for cars made or or the road before 1986 (new cars to me).

NGK would always be my go to, if available for your model.

The bulb has to work with the reflector, you'll want to know if it's a H4, H7, H8? bulb, decide what type of light colour you want and as you say if it works with the over-complicated VW computer programs and systems. Find out which bulb it is and give Classic Car LEDs Ltd a phone call (they also sell for modern cars) one of the few sellers I trust. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ As per my thread below. -

Within a certain range of sizes the performance isn't really about the dimensions, a smaller, narrower higher sidewalled tyre could be better performance it's all about the design, build, construction and compounds. Also different sizes will preform differently on different road conditions in different environments and conditions. Tyres like anything else on the car are full of compromises to meet the varying conditions they'll be subject to. You may not believe it but 7.5" rims and 225 wide tyres are already overwide for what is actually required, already firmly a fashion choice by VW - but as always each to their own, good luck.

What is it you are trying to achieve, is it that you, like many others, are only interested in the looks of the tyre and wheel to car cosmetics and not that bothered about practicalities of real world driving? If the website is correct it shows the 2017-22, 184ps, 2l, diesel on optional 19" (7.5Jx19 ET51) wheels with 225/35ZR19, 88Y tyres (to me 19" are a silly size and 225 and particularly 35% aspect ratio silly but it's not my car). Comparing those tyres against 245/35/R19 - Have you looked at, and/or asked, in Skoda Octavia and Skoda Mk III (2013 - 2020) forums for owners options and experiences, many owners look to reduce wheel size to get bigger sidewalls to the tyres, perhaps not as many VRS owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-škoda-octavia/

Have a look at the actual wheels you have to confirm any information you get from any source, including manufacturers that can often have errors and omissions in their databases and presentation of those on their websites and catalogues. Inside the wheels are the numbers including ET IIRC. See the following websites for comparison but bear in mind my caution and nothing beats actual trial fitting to eliminate variables. By the look of it things by these sites they will fit but putting different tyres isn't the best idea, best to have all four the same size, make model, age and wear but having a different set of tyres front to rear is done, generally best to have the better grip/handling tyres to the rear (in wet weather this might also include tread depth left but not exclusively). https://www.willtheyfit.com https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

Unless it's just the photo that looks a special spring, i.e. not one you might get from buying a box of various springs. As such it seems pretty poor that it should be of a build quality that breaks in such a short time but that's costings in car manufacture (and manufacturing generally) in the past decades, a race to the bottom of price and quality and the throwaway attitude. Unfortunately I've no idea about a reliable replacement, perhaps if you could get one out of a scrap/recycled earlier (or even perhaps later if it was a batch fault) then it might outlast the car the throttle body could be fitted to. For Dealerships and VW it's more profitable to fit new throttle bodies as replacements at their customer's expense.

@ColinD hi, thanks for your reply. Yes it's Chrome (Google can cope with my misspelling so I stick with it, plus I previously used Firefox but had some issues with it but too long ago for me to remember what. Sod's Law initially this translation thing was only happening in the Mk4 Fabia forum and nowhere else at all so I thought it was only on the Mk4 section but then of course was told differently and experienced it a very few times elsewhere. It's no problem please just let it go as far as I'm concerned and I can't think of when it last happened last, or that I've noticed at least, on the Mk4 forum or elsewhere. I might give Firefox, or duck duck go, another try and see how it gets on with my less than a year old PC (with built in CD/DVD? player) running on MS 2010 (very well and very reliably). Cheers.

Wow, wished I'd know that too. Learnt on Briskoda from a member that Australia get 7 years warranty, I've no idea what's included and what's not. "Cheaper" "inferior" marques in the UK have 7-years warranty yet the more expensive and "higher quality" German brands like VW only give 2-3 years, we've always been a soft touch in the UK no doubt helped by the marque/brands names snobbery. 12 years would be outside of any warranty but a 2012 car I'd gamble will give a longer life than the later cars especially the newer they are now, especially give all the computer modules and sensors let alone computer programs on them.

Rubber timing belts being changed at 5yrs/50k-miles was a VWŠkoda UK con (we lost £429 on that) last year they fell in line with Europe 15yrs/180k(?)-miles - all those of us conned ought to band together and have our money returned.

There are differences from Fabia to Citigo other than just size but that doesn't matter as you look at if the car is suitable to you, it's condition is the main thing. 50,000 in 12 years is an average of 4k-miles per year which is low and tyres and discs mentioned on MoTs possibly bear out the low mileage and periods of lack of use and/or regular low mileage use which can be worse than higher mileage use, hence possibly the change of clutch. You need to drive it and then another Citigo of the same age and approximate mileage to compare. Citigo can be quite basic but it depends what model spec it is and what you are used to and expect. Buy on condition, seeing a complete list of "service" each and every year could be more reassuring given its low mileage, don't expect to pay extra for the low mileage. A 12 year old car may be better than the later models and possibly less hassle. I have zero idea if the price is good or not but don't be too swayed by the low mileage, buy on condition.

Google Greek to English translation. - A Man with Honor (1960) Nikos Kourkoulos, Bad Analyst

Halfords Advanced 3 Tonne Low Profile Trolley Jack (260531) "Load Capacity - 3 Tonne Guarantee - 3 Years Maximum Height : 50.5cm Minimum Height - 7.5cm Maximum Height - 50.5cm Saddle Diameter - 11cm" https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-workshop/axle-stands-trolley-jacks/halfords-advanced-3-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack-260531.html

A good idea to put on all four tyres of the same model to keep handling even and balanced as far as the tyres go. The tyres need to suit your car and you, the amount of annual mileage doesn't really matter other than perhaps if you're concerned about how quickly they wear if you do very high annual mileage but even then as the tyres are a very important part (and component) of braking, steering and suspension you what the best reasonably suitable. 8k-miles isn't too low and isn't high. Handling, incidents and accidents can happen regardless of mileage. Driving a big heavy car like a Superb (a L&K at that) personally I'd want the the most suitable tyres for that type of car and Churchill brand tyres may include a model in their range that is suitable to some level, the level might be high or it might not I don't know. What you really need is a 2016 Superb owner that uses four Churchill tyres on the car and has very similar driving situations to you and then also drives in a similar way to you with similar expectations of the tyres as you. This is why general tyre reviews have to be taken as a generalisation. I possibly have higher expectations of tyres than an average VW / Skoda owner but that doesn't mean I'd turn my nose up at any tyre just because of it's country of manufacturer but the day of me being able to afford to buy tyres and give them 1,000 miles and change them if they didn't suit me are a long time in the past so personally I'd not take a chance on an unknown brand unless the qualifications I put earlier were meet. Churchill is the type of brand name that Chinese companies would use to see to the British market. Doesn't make them god or bad tyres just possibly good marketing for the market. This from F1 tyre places. - https://www.f1autocentres.co.uk/tyres/manufacturer/churchill From Bond "UK’s leading independent tyre wholesaler " and they seem to promote Churchill on their vans.- https://www.bondint.uk/tyre-brands/churchill

I found a good and reliable LED bulb to replace the incandescent DRL bulbs that doesn’t upset the VW computer program and doesn’t get as hot. The right (offside / driver’s side) bulb holder was marking up and incandescent bulb failing (left side is just bulb marking up but not as bad).. I got the LED bulbs from a good reliable source of information and products that I’ve been using and recommending to others, who had same successes, for a few years now. I’m only a satisfied customer and no more. These LED bulbs have been fitted and tested on my wife’s 2015 Fabia and no more amber-triangle-of-doom when the DRL are activated. The DRL are not required for this year of car but my wife likes to use them. Information and bulbs supplied by Classic Car LEDs Ltd – they obviously sell some for modern cars too. – https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk The LED bulbs I fitted - 12V BA15S WHITE 21W LED 4014 SMD BULB CLASSIC / CANBUS P21W GLB382 - Negative Earth - £20.03 the set of two including P&P and VAT as at today. – https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-ba15s-21w-led-4014-smd-bulb-classic-vehicle-p21w-glb382 Also available in ‘warm white’ (classic incandescent appearance). - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-ba15s-warm-white-21w-led-4014-smd-bulb-classic-vehicle-p21w-glb382 These are already bright but they also sell a stronger DRL bulb but as it gets as hot as the 21W incandescent bulb we both thought it not suitable perhaps for the fragile VW fittings plus the bulb I fitted is also regularly sold by Classic Car LEDs Ltd and fitted to VW Transporters so has a good proven track record of working by themselves. Instructions on how to change the bulbs are in the car’s ‘Owner’s Manual’. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models HTH.

@FredScot you can access the Owner's Manual for the car by going to the VWŠloda website with them on, it's free to download a pdf version. The 'Owner's Manual has that if it's a system fault the warning light would have flashed so you can ask the car owner this. This is from the 'Owner's Manual' - The following is for change of tyre(s) pressure(s), audible sound, so you can also ask about that. - The VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' website. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Sorry I didn't mean to imply you wouldn't know, Savings in wear and fuel make sense and a good bonus. A 50c uplift in temperature is a good difference.

Well done, thanks for reporting back. We've all done something like that even after double and treble checking our work. As you put a bit bad that this was missed as usually any new parts and there installation is a classic area for faulty new parts or their installation, including by paid professionals. If you want to you can do a guide, photos always handy to and put it on this forum or on the Skoda Fabia Guides. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/167-skoda-fabia-guides/

Every time I open the back doors I wind the windows down and up again at least once if not more and if I think the I've not done it for a while I make a point of don't it. Doesn't take long and very little effort much better to me than getting messy farting about with mechanisms and potential of breaking any VW fantastic-plastic getting panels off because I'm doing the job with the wrong attitude. It's worked so far, now no doubt Sod's Law will apply and one or both jam up.

Don't think of it as a "spare" key but the second key. Alternate the use of the two keys in whatever way suits you, that way you know they both work and state of remote battery and where to find the second key (but you knew that, many don't hence only one key with s/h cars). Do bear in mind that an MoT pass and advisories are only the car has meet the minimum statutory requirement to one (hopefully trained?) person's opinion at one point in time only it doesn't mean the car is as good as it could or should be or that work may not be required perhaps sooner perhaps a lot later. To me PSA/Stelantis like Mercs and BMWs (and VAGs) are cars you hire or own early in the warranty but even then it's a risk, then I'm not standard in my choice or like of cars. Even Toyota and Honda aren't as good as they used to be but they have further to fall. Personally I'd barely want a car from this century. The engines, if looked after (better than VW want) should last a very long time it's all the other bits I'd worry about including the computer programs and the ever increasing number of sensors and modules. God luck with whatever you decide.

Hi, welcome. You might need to replace the car battery (and possibly 'code' it) if you don't own and use an appropriate battery charger maintainer after reading the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and booklet for charger maintainer. You will have the battery last even longer and give better service if you carry out occasional, when required or convenient, full preventative recharges with the battery charger maintainer, best done low amps (4 or less) over aa long a time as required to get the battery to full charge. What is the full service history on your car, as "servicing" modern cars comprises of very little actually done, has the brake fluid been replaced, spark plugs been replaced, engine air filter replaced, cabin filter, engine oil & filter changed every year? For the DSG gear oil I'll leave to those that know more about it but it's not the same as a manual gearbox oil change which I've done on my wife's car using better oil than VW use (same for engine oil). For the timing belt it may not need doing but you don't say what engine you have in your post or name plate, ours was done at 5-years but that was a VWŠkoda UK con now not done (pity the UK isn't like other countries and we could get our money back for that con, £429 in our case). My name plate as only an example (these aren't seen on phones I believe but I wouldn't know). - You would need to ask 2020 owners or look in the threads and posts to see any common faults with them, on my wife's 2015 the VW front dampers are poor and not long lasting, a remote keyfob stopped working (£190 to replace and program in) and I make sure the "spare", actually second, key is used with the other in alternate rotation to even out wear on remotes and their batteries and their keyblades and ignition barrel but I couldn't beat the lack of longevity of the item. The factory brake pads and disks weren't as well wearing as I'd want (I changed to better) but they were bad (just not that good for wear). Annoying clunks from the underside developed but as other owners have spent a lot of time and money on replacing parts and they still remain I've not bothered as nothing's mentioned about this at MoT time, only the replacement VW front dampers that are only a few years old, they were "misting" at 11 months old (2-year warranty) so a reoccurring Advisory. Some VWs have coolant leaks, a friends 2019 1.5 had a charger cooler leak which I think is common. Personally rather than a VW I would go for an older Toyota or Honda as those I think would work less expense, work and hassle but I understand the devil you know and you sound like you don't mind the extra work and expense it might take to keep the Fabia. I'm surprised we've not seen more mention of Covid build quality and parts but other than radios and perhaps another battery monitoring issue (my wife's 2015 had the 97CU Recall) not seen much here on the Fabia mk3 forum. If you're happy with your 2020 Fabia then sticking with it for another 3-4 years and 30-40k-miles shouldn't be too bad. I changed the "lifetime" coolant on my wife's car but I think 10 years would be fine but many would keep it in the life of the car. The German marques for decades have liked to show how 'clever' they are by over complicating things, especially their computer programs so you want knows them working on them or that very rare thing someone who is good and gets information and checks and cross references his work (almost always a man unfortunately) particularly for diagnosis. If the engine you have is one of the active ones personally I'd not stick with it too long. Good luck.

Have a look at the map and list. -List of VCDS Owners (Previously known as VAG-COM) & VCP Owners -

From the 'Owner's Manual' of my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 - "The time can also be set in the Infotainment » operating instructions for Infotainment, chapter Device settings."