Former

At least it scratches up the discs to a shine and gets rid of the surface rusting we get down here in the relatively balmy, if damp and wet, winters here in the East Midlands / (West) East Anglia region of England (north to Lunduners). 😊

I have not got a wiring diagram to remind me what terminal 30 is and where but I have seen those that are into electrics give it importance, I am not clever with maths and things like electric (or anything much really) so my simple mind thinks, depending on the electrics running on the car (the gods that are the computers and their programs of course) plus I cannot think or know what else a 2019 car would have running electrically but if very low and engine not under load then the less the battery needs charging the better as it has plenty/sufficient - but of course that does not allow for for faults and errors. You are obviously way ahead of me, cleaning the OBD (that name I could not think of at that time so put diagnostic, that is my poor memory) port before I thought of it only one example. 950 does sound to me high for a modern car but my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 4-cylinder 1.2 TSI engine has all sorts of noises from it at various times as the computers do their stuff (whether I want them to or not) and the idle revs can be high for a while some of it I think is explained by the following link but may not be directly or indirectly similar to your issue (stuff VW do not want customers to know, or cannot be bothered to tell them, or only discovered by customers or dealerships, who tell them ) so only follow the link if you want. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/504258-a-tsb-from-skoda-on-cold-start-behaviour-with-12-tsis-something-that-dealership-employees-should-be-able-to-explain-to-customers

It's your brakes THE most important thing on the car so if you are unsure of them then get them checked by someone good (and honest where possible) and ask for more information on them. Mileage and age are a very loose measure, as with other items on the car their wear depends on the use (or lack of) and how the car is driven some drivers get through brakes, tyres and clutches more frequently than others. Also if parts are replaced it does depend on the quality of those replaced parts as to their wear and longevity (poor in the case of VWSkoda front dampers for 2015 Fabia Mk3 I've found). The wear of one part, set of parts, components or systems can also depend on the condition of other related parts, systems and components. For example tyres are an important, and often overlooked, part of the braking system (and steering and suspension) even if they have lots of tread on them they can be aged and worn and possibly lower quality than is available. Note an MoT test is only to check the vehicle meets the statutory standards to one person's opinion at one point in time only it doesn't mean the car is as good as it could or should be or that it its bad. You only had advisories. Dealerships will only quote for replacements on such things and may just be looking for more chargeable work to do. At least one Briskoda poster (certainly not me) does preventative cleaning and lubricating of the brakes to prolong the brakes parts life but I doubt it's the type of work a Dealership would do well but still charge a lot of labour (and perhaps materials) for. The discs do seem a bit marked up in those photo (might be smalls grit stones from a drive or road perhaps(?) or not and other cause(s). If you have loads of "meat" on the discs and pads and all are worn evenly and they are good (or reasonable) quality perhaps never know from internet or photos for sure) a clean and lubricate might be good - but I'm not a mechanic or expert in anything. I wouldn't know a Kodiaq if it ran me over but my wife's Fabia Mk3 had the easiest discs and pads replacement I've ever done in my limited experience of doing such work other than the front Fabia Mk3 discs and pads which were even easier so perhaps you might want to research checking the pads and discs for yourself and even perhaps replacing them yourself IF they're anywhere near as easy as for the Fabia Mk3 that way you at least have someone you ought to be able to trust looking at it and perhaps doing the work. Doing the work will involve borrowing or buying the necessary tools if you don't have them. Buying the discs and pads if required at lest gives you the choice of options. I bet others might say just drive the car and see what's said at the next "service" and/or MoT.

There are a few differences, that is how these Chinese copies tend to be, they or the car often need some modifications to get them fit properly or well but as long as they work (test the motor before trying to fit it) and they continue to work reasonably for a reasonable time you can accept it. Some can work well for a long time, some faulty or don't work straight out of packaging or within minutes, hours, weeks or months of being fitted or actual work, it's all a bit of a gamble, quality testing and assurance seems to be a thing of the past with such items. NOS if still around, or used refurbish or repaired original items can often be much better for performance and longevity - but then, not always. Perhaps this will outlast the car. 😊

ETA. Have you cleaned the diagnostic port on the car and VCDS lead plug connections? As with the multimeters, you should always test any testing equipment before conducting tests to confirm they are working correctly. Though I have no idea how you would do that with a VCDS machine, other than making sure you have the latest updates installed (but if they are anything like Microsh1t they can introduce more programming problems that it resolves). And are you saying 950 on a warm engine by 'water' temperature or oil temperature, what consumer electrics were running at the time, what other items from programs were operating at the time, what should the revs be?

ETA. Have you cleaned the diagnostic port on the car and VCDS lead plug connections? As with the multimeters, you should always test any testing equipment before conducting tests to confirm they are working correctly. Though I have no idea how you would do that with a VCDS machine, other than making sure you have the latest updates installed (but if they are anything like Microsh1t they can introduce more programming problems that it resolves).

Much of car servicing and maintenance and even many repairs often boil down to clean and lubricate. You have already found the benefit of cleaning (and perhaps securing and protecting the electric connections) even deleting error codes is a form of electronic cleaning so you may want to consider further cleaning, see later. I don't think there is an engine earth cable but I could be wrong. Is 950 really that high for the revs, how accurate is the VCDS reading - I don't know but what you have to consider is you are dealing with computer programs and physical parts and components if you think they are always extremely well designed and made and always function perfectly I have some financial investments I would like to show. (I am joking.) VW has very complex intertwined computer programs (and over intrusive to me) that are designed to get the best out of all the systems on the car and particularly to get the very last tiny bit out of possible fuel consumption and reduce emissions (ignoring everything they have put on the car against this and they can't cheat as much as they did previously). These computer systems sometimes have to do unexpected stuff to meet all of the various requirements of running the car in such a way. Now they have one cylinder less to do this and they don't have the heritage of others with 3-cylinder engines (the 4-cylinder were rough enough in my personal opinion). Also you have a "smart" alternator and a battery charging program along with loads of other computer programs making their demands so I am not too surprised the figures vary (but I don't know VCDS or ever used one, look to be a horrible presentation of a computer program to me, something from the previous century but I know those that use it like it). Using something like the VCDS is useful and sexy but as already proven going with the basics like clean, secure and protected electric connections (and wires) must not be neglected - a couple of posters have mentioned things like the throttle body and pedal why not look at physically cleaning and lubricating the pedal and if required cleaning the throttle body then resetting them with the VCDS. I forget, did you actually fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger or just rely on driving the car for the alternator to do the work? Personally not having a VCDS I would have started with a spray cleaner lubricator on the pedal, check battery clamps connections then using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and charger instructions, got the battery fully charged and see how things went and further investigations as required - but that's me, I'm not that interested in working on cars particularly ours. Good luck, keep going and let us know how you get on, you already have some progress.

Sorry I thought I made it clear but sorry obviously I did not, yes what they have put is correct - "(AGM) with absorbent glass fleece (or "mat") ". AGM is fleece, AGM binary is a different type of battery that AFAIK you would not be offered when entering your car details on a supplier website. I've never seen a binary AGM battery when looking for car batteries so I've no idea what is on their label but I don't think you need worry about getting one without a good search specifically for one. The first bullet and link is to give conformation, and lots of other information if wanted, that you 'code' as "fleece". Second bullet and link is to confirm what AGM, fleece and mat(t) mean and give more information, if wanted. Not many companies actual give information about their products now and the internet generally has become sales over information, information that was previously available no longer is. In the video there is an illustration of what the binary battery internal looks like which you can compare with your info from Continental. But - You do not need to follow up on any of this information as you have the correct AGM battery and know the correct term for the 'coding' (there will be several reasons why the binary alternative is available on the 'coding' machine but you would need to ask the 'coding' machine supplier or VW exactly why, good luck with that task. Your English is great, my explaining and English are what are lacking. My warning was to do as you have done and that is not to take anything you read or see as being necessarily correct and to check and do your own research. Obviously you have to decided how much needs to be done or is worth doing for whatever the subject is. You should get very good use and life out of your new battery but remember the basics, even if new or newer a battery is just a store so you can deplete or empty the store (constant parasitic drain, heavy use, faulty charging system) so some time in the future, possibly year(s) you may want to check the battery and do a preventative charge with a your Noco (or perhaps a very long drive with low electric consumption). If you revive your old battery, to any extent, it may show you and confirm the benefit of using a battery charger maintainer when required. Cheers.

You do need to check any information you get from any source, old bloke or any other, off the internet, car or any manufacturer's website, catalogue or data bases all have errors and omissions (especially old bloke on internet). Try to cross reference any info with a couple of other reliable sources if you can. I'm not saying Continental have put anything wrong, just for next bit(s). - "According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it!" - https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-a-bigger-capacity-battery-to-a-mk7-golf.320084/ "AGM means absorbent glass mat and refers to the fine glass fiber separator between the positive and negative plates that helps absorb all the battery acid. AGM Batteries are advanced lead-acid batteries." - https://www.yuasabatteries.com/resources/guides/agm-battery/ What is a bipolar lead battery? - CBI Battery 101 series - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2UxCIqdj2Y

Hi, welcome. If you've not already done so you could try searching or asking on the 'Skoda Yeti' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/151-skoda-yeti/ Obviously you'll have wanted to clear the basics, proper servicing, maintenance and perhaps the further cleaning of the engine and fuel delivery as well as the DPF being reasonably clear. Timely changes of engine oil and filter and air filter and other engine servicing and maintenance. If you have any scan reports they can be useful. And if you have any warning lights or messages (or constant error codes). Good luck.

Sorry, I can't remember so would have to look it up in notes or web search, so you might as well for yourself as it would be just as quick. I can tell you VW call the setting Fleece or fleece for AGM battery (referring to the battery innards) and that's what you want to set to. Others may be able to remember chapter and verse the difference of Binary and Fleece. Your battery is 760 (EN) cold cranking amps (CCA), the EN relates to the spec system used for this measurement, you can get info on the different test systems if you want but as in the Binary you don't need to know the difference if you don't want - as long as you enter fleece (or Fleece). Same as you don't need to know about the old BEM code unless you really want.

A good point was made earlier that the battery may already be beyond full revival or even reasonable use revival. But having the existing battery as fully charged as possible using an appropriate battery charger does mean the car can be reasonably used until a new replacement battery is fitted, or another battery charger maintainer recharge is required. Sod's Law these things happen around holidays or other times when things are a lot less convenient. ETA: and posters have put on here that they used the car with a battery that must beyond full revival for months or many months perhaps with some or more battery charger maintainer rechargers. There are so many variables to the use of the vehicle and use/abuse of the battery.

I've done the same and revived "dead" car batteries. Some of the modern chargers (for 12v battery) won't even try at battery below 6v or 7.2V or 7.5v or even higher IIRC but you can get round that in the way you have and a couple more ways with these so called "smart" chargers (maintainers) to fool them into trying or get the battery to a point where they will try. An image oft t'net of the cheap plastic 30+-year old Bradex B4 I sometimes use, the needle gauge is very useful and I can tell within 2-10 minutes how low the battery actually is and looking at the needle again in 15-45 minutes later if it might take hours, overnight or day to charge.

Put the battery on charge again using your Ctek (I don't suppose it has a low setting but if it has put it to low) and charge until the Ctek shows fully charged (24 hours should have been enough but obviously it wasn't). Important (if you don't or properly do so) is to read and follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual and the instructions for the charger. If your Ctek has a rescue/revive setting you could try that. 70 Ah battery for VW is to use a 7-amp charger, personally I prefer a 4-amp or even 2-amp charger, takes longer but gives a greater chance of a better longer lasting charge and battery. If you can't complete a full charge in one go because you run out of time and/or need to you the car have a second go to get to full asap. It could be be the battery has seen too much use/abuse neglect and has gone weak ,or the charging system has a fault, or you have a drain (camera or something left live 24ours a day or fault drain on the car) or very least likely the battery was a duff one. You could see if there's (an admitted) Recall for battery or charging issues, otherwise I doubt you'll get any uncharged help from the Dealership unless it's a part/component/system fault. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns As put already you battery readings aren't great but it depends on where and when they were taken and what with. Just driving the car doesn't always resolve the issue particularly if the battery has been taken too low or too low too often and if during the driving you have high electrical consumption. Prevention is better than cure, just as it's not against any law for men to read instructions (if you don't do so already) you can also when required do proa-active preventative battery charger with an appropriate battery charger maintainer. Preventative charge with appropriate charger maintainer at winter/summer tyre changing times, perhaps just after the very hot weather in summer, and/or as required as a preventative. The car battery is one of the most oversold car parts, in the UK at least, with premature, often distress, replacement when very often using an appropriate battery charger maintainer would have put off the replacement purchase for a very long time. Battery issues is also the number one reason for breakdown call outs in the UK (January 2nd being the busiest for those) the majority of times the problem could have been avoided by preventative use of an appropriate charger maintainer which would also extended the usual life of the battery and if done when required more regularly extend the battery life by years. As the post 2021 cars age there will be more need for appropriate charger maintainer or simply more premature replacement batteries sold. RAC must make a killing out of them judging by how quickly they tell their customers they need a new battery and how much they charge for them, even a mate bought a replacement battery after calling them out, battery not from them as they were so high priced, I took his previous battery away and it charged up well and held charge so I returned it to him to use as a 12v power supply in the garage for radio and tools. He learnt his lesson then and takes more care of the batteries. Having put that sometimes for some it's best to just replace the battery, bear in mind it will want 'coding', and I too recommend Tayna - I also recommend fully charging the new battery before fitting, should take long, then you know you have started with a new fully charged battery. Also bear in mind there are two bank holidays between now and next Tuesday. Let us know how you get on.

Well you've got some nifty multimeters, or a good mate to lend them to you. You cam read up a lot and pick up a lot but the basics still apply and they're pretty straightforward and simple, if you think of the battery purely as a store, or a simple bank account, you can't take out more than is put in, you can only spend the money once and then it needs replacing if you want to spend more. If you want more info, details, and fact sheets, links, on batteries and VW's system PM me. There no trouble with learning for the first time absolutely everyone has to, but some of us struggle to retain or remember what we've learnt, and relearnt. 😄 I only learnt about VW's battery 'coding' stuff when I got a new battery for my wife's Fabia Mk3, all PITA stuff to me. Don't worry about battery serial numbers and battery make that was just for VW's sake and often the factory hasn't bother with the serial number just put a string of ones (1111111111) and all you need do is increase that number by one (1111111112). Also you need to change the battery type from EFB to fleece (VW for AGM) and alter to 70 (Ah). As with all computer data input or 'coding' be very careful to check what you've typed and double-check it before committing to the program. See the example for my wife's car done by a Briskoda member on his OBDEleven. The battery manufacturer was a three letter code but you can just leave it as before. AFAIK Bosch is a Varta so I and you could put in "VAO" AFAIL VW's code for Varta (but mine has been fine left with "Bosch"). You might get the previous battery back for useful use, be interesting to see, as I put the secret is time and patience (which many don't posses, one or both) go as low (amps) slow and long (many hours or day or days) as you can, always fully charge the battery even if it means doing it in a couple of stages if you don't have time or need use of the car.

You can do various load tests but real life use of the battery on the car is proper conformation for me. The car battery is one of the most oversold car parts, in the UK at least, with premature, often distress, replacement when very often using an appropriate battery charger maintainer would have put off the replacement purchase for a very long time. Battery issues is also the number one reason for breakdown call outs in the UK (January 2nd being the busiest for those) the majority of times the problem could have been avoided by preventative use of an appropriate charger maintainer which would also extended the usual life of the battery and if done when required more regularly extend the battery life by years. As the post 2021 cars age there will be more need for appropriate charger maintainer or simply more premature replacement batteries sold. RAC must make a killing out of them judging by how quickly they tell their customers they need a new battery and how much they charge for them, even a mate bought a replacement battery after calling them out, battery not from them as they were so high priced, I took his previous battery away and it charged up well and held charge so I returned it to him to use as a 12v power supply in the garage for radio and tools. He learnt his lesson then and takes more care of the batteries of his small fleet.

ETA: just for info, trunk is the American term, we call it the boot in UK.

Do you mean a plastic sheet on the inside of the door panels stuck to the door frame?

That's fair enough, each to their own, personally I don't like plastic wheel trims or alloy wheel designs, it's your car and your money you put on what you like, personally I quite like the look of the wheels/trim in Carlston's photo (no idea of real life tho') and think I'd prefer them to many alloy designs but I like steel wheels with chrome "hubcaps" so I know I'm not anywhere near average in this. I also don't like black painted alloys, but it's not my car or choice. 😄 When you're sorted your 16" black wheels bang up a photo, I'm sure the overwhelming majority will agree with you and I might be a convert (on your car). All the best.

Up to you who and what you believe. You were a bit late in sorting the battery and a 5-amp appropriate changer rather than being too low was perhaps too high. The secret is to get the right charger (a "smart" charger might need fooling which ain't difficult as like "smart" "phones" they ain't that smart) and it can be a "smart" charger, go low (amps), slow and long for best results. Think day(+) rather than hours. I've recovered a few "dead" batteries over the decades without "clever" maths or education or training, just by experience. I've recovered a battery at 2.5V (multimeter, not Fiuke reading on connected terminals), though I'd not trust it for long after charging, and a battery that was left "dead" on a garage floor for 2 years to be successfully used on a little used small van (until I had to recharge it again). But I'm no good at maths, physics, chemistry, sexy battery chargers or scan tools, so I just relying on decades of real life experience, the basics are still the basics. It doesn't matter what the voltage reads at charge or after it's how long it retains charge and how good the battery is in real use. I use a 20+ year old 1.8 amp charger. a 4-amp, 30+ year old charger and a new-ish 4-amp "smart" start/stop charger, on "standard", EFB and AGM car batteries and none of them fancy, expensive types of chargers like Noco and others. The secret is prevention, if required charge the car battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer before it gets too low and too often too low, prevention rather than cure. The very complex VW computer systems don't like a battery in a low state of charge and will cause all sorts of unexpected issues even when the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough and before you get any warning messages and lights on the car dash and perhaps even before scan tool stuff. Keep going with the Noco and you might get (much?) more useful car use out of that battery. Final point, if you want to accept it, if you read the Owner's Manual and the instructions for the battery charger you might know more than if you don't, despite what you might have ben told or learnt this is not illegal in any way for a (macho) man to do so. Wishing you the very best with your real life learning experience, and perhaps getting the battery to more useful life. 😁

Thanks, I can understand the nylon cover panel bit (whether it is or not) for the 5th door panel (hatch door in UK) but wooden relates to wood, from trees in UK. Not having a go as I can barely speak or write English so can't manage a second language and have respect for those that can. And I would never imagine that the cover panel would be so detailed, obviously from the days when VW were not so worried about distinguishing VW from Skoda so much to protect the father brand.

Thanks, I blame the cheap keyboard, it has sticky keys that often print none or twice, plus the battery died very shortly after that (I can use a battery that's too low for digital stuff and the keyboard will be happy with it for a very long time and wear it right down, bit like my TV remotes) - plus of course I'm a poor (slow, one-finger) typist. 😆

Old people find it difficult to break habits. 😄 Having just seen your previous post, we have a similar saying here - "every cloud has a silver lining". One thing that confused me? -

Do not rely on any warning messages or warning lights on the car, often they show when things have got further than is best, be proactive by preventing most warning messages and lights from coming on by keeping the whole car in at least reasonable condition if not good condition. Warning lights in the past were often known as "idiot lights" sometimes unfairly, but not always. Cars have complex computer stuff on them now but again many of these these shouldn't be relied on as when to take actions of maintenance (and servicing). The oil service message is more of a reminder than any real measure. For the engine oil and filter change on a 9-10 year old car you don't know the history of I suggest unless you only do lots of motorway driving that you change the engine oil and filter at the annual mileage (9,400 miles) or time whichever is soonest. Also bear in mind of course that there are far more important components and systems on the car than the engine, brakes, steering and suspension (all three include the tyres) safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, etc,) and windows and mirrors. The garage might have used the correct or good quality oil, some do, but certainly not all, some might tell you they have changed the engine oil when all they have done is reset the reminder message. You could have a look under the engine and see if there much oil around, gravity usually takes an external oil there, and see if it looks like possibly the oil and filter have been changed, more difficult possibly 9 months later of course. I personally either change the oil and filter myself or get it done a short time after getting the car if I'm not sure when the oil and filter was last changed and which oil was used, allowing time to discover leaks and/or consumption. Xavier is joking about the price of the oil, there are loads more expensive and possibly better oils about, whichever oil you use it just needs to be good quality whether in the engine, transmission or elsewhere. People who buy a model such as a VRS unusually drive them like a model such as a VRS so the cars probably need more servicing and maintenance than other models not less. There are so many beliefs about oil and which to use that you will get multiply views and opinions but for the oil consumption I suggest you ask about that or research on the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Good luck.

Something I meant to put in last post but forgot, also check the alternator, if the battery isn't great then the alternator has to do more, and it has 100k+-miles of work, flip side of course if the alternator isn't great the battery has to do more and isn't getting the all the help from the alternator it should. Battery is like tyres, very important to the car but often under considered and overlooked - this issue might not be with the battery but affecting it, or perhaps something different or as well as. Good luck let us know how you get on.