Former

Hi, welcome. Difficult to tell (for me at least) by your photo of Offside, pic 1, but if the top joint boot of that droplink is open / torn that might be the noise or a contributor to the noise, the feel through the steering and pedal sounds a bit drastic for this , but I could well be wrong about that, so perhaps if you try a bar or something on it to see / feel / hear any movement from that top joint. Be careful what you use and where you brace against and what might happen to the car or you with any slippage, also bear in mind you don't weigh as much as the car acting on any parts like that. It could be more other and more serious things and you want to sort anything to do with steering or suspension straight away or ASAP depending the cause and severity. As it tends to be quieter here you might be better posting or Searching in the relevant to your year of car Superb forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-škoda-superb/ HTH. Good luck.

2025 is 20 mm diameter by 2.5 mm thick, 2032 is 20 mm diameter by 3.2 mm thick. Many seem to be able to fit the thicker battery in remotes and it might / should? last longer (if it fits without issues) but both are nominal 3V. As it's so very easy to synchronise the (non-KESSY at least) remote key fobs I've had with cars I always synchronise them after changing battery(ies) just in case (belt, braces and bit of string type thinking) and never have a "spare" key instead alternate the use of both keys, I swap every 6-months but other alternates are available, this way the remotes, batteries, keyblades and locks all get more even wear plus you know where the other key is (rather than mislaid) and that it should be fully operational when you need it, opposite of carrying a spare wheel in the boot for years and it's under inflated or flat when you actually need it. I normally link to the relevant Owner's Manual for specific instructions (battery changing, synchronising) but once again the Skoda Owner's Manuals site has problem.

There must be alternatives, for me if it had to be a Swift it'd have to be a MK1 Swift to be small, light and nippy enough but I'm far too old to have any idea what modern youngsters would be able to stomach. I think you have to be 25, and no idea how long after passing test, to get "classic" insurance (insurance for a "classic" car), you'd not believe the possible premiums) for the price of this one year's Fabia insurance you could get at least one, if not two, decent "classics"/old-car and the insurance(s), hopefully not need to spend much on them, have fun and and learn to drive and not just pass the the driving test. But I've gone of a tangent again and not answered the original post - @Buddxrs as well as following the advice in Rooted's post earlier in the day you might also want or need to post in the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ And/or do a Search in this forum and the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum for the info you're after. Good luck.

I've no idea now but surely there are smaller lighter options than a Polo - note I'm biased I don't like the interior of German marques, and many of the exteriors, they look like they were done by boring, steady fathers. An unmolested Mk1 Golf GTI would look slow on paper to modern eyes but being smaller and very substantially lighter than a more modern lardy Polo the Golf with its "skinny" wheels and tyres would dance around the Polo on a good twisty A, B, or unclassified road and be a lot more fun to drive, and at legal speeds.

😃 😄 Thanks. I think I misread the same in another post, I've increased the zoom on my screen (and on looking again still read it as black box!). Apologies to Buddxrs. Depends on noise of course but removing/replacing the back box could upset an MOT tester or Police if it's on top of something else annoying them, I've no idea about a standard Fabia Mk3 1.2 tsi I wouldn't have thought it'd be that bad. Modern cars have enough insulation to reduce noises into the cabin and some may have the "stereo" loud so that they have to have over-noisy exhausts to hear them inside the car, "stereo" off the exhaust need not be as loud. I've had sports exhaust boxes and systems put on couple of cars and I'm not against them but a well serviced, maintained, tuned and set up car can be quieter than those that aren't.

I only almost know the general very basics but they are always the best place to start any diagnostics from, car wont start- battery (electrics/electronics, and computer programs now) and fuel (empty tank, fuel delivery and reception), of course a fuel pump has a foot in each of these camps. Good luck let us know how you get on.

What brakes are on the car now, size, make if you know, wheel size too? Unless things have changed a stage 1 can mean one thing to one tuner and perhaps different to others. You can get various power hikes and/or changes for better/different performance improvement to include better mpg (depending on driving style. Remember tyres are an important part of the braking system (and steering and suspension system) as with many things size of wheels and tyres bigger doesn't always mean better, Smaller and narrower wheels with narrower and higher profile tyres can be better than bigger and wider, the design, make up and composition of the tyre can be more important than just the size. What is a black box delete, I thought black boxes were added after factory and many insurance one are supposed to work on these (so-called) "smart" phones? 🤣 Thanks rum4mo. There's loads of info on tuning and tuners on the forum but others I'm sure will be along with more advice and recommendations.

You might be better off asking on the relevant Octavia forum or putting up (landscape) photos or video of the trim panel, the recess and screw and the grab handle. Looking at the rubber(?) grab handle on my wife's Fabia Mk3 no recess but it look like the screw might hold the handle but without removing it I don't know if that does it or if the panel has to be taken off - if it is the screw that holds the handle then it might be your handle is broken or slipped out(?) but I don't know.

Years back a mate entered a rally to Gambia from England via France etc. then desert, the idea was you bought a vehicle for under a certain amount took it to Gambia and left it there to be sold, if you made it there, and the process would go to a charity there and provide vehicles to be auctioned. Three other blokes from the village want to join in all middle-aged or more and no idea about cars. First they bought a IIRC Mitsubishi with 4WD but it was an electronic gearbox with a problem. Next they listen to sense and got a little Suzuki with manual locking hubs and an old VW bus. Trouble with the bus with it was ex-army of somewhere and whilst the second electrics (for coms) might have been useful the riffle rack would cause problems in some countries and their border controls. I convinced them to remove the riffle rack and paint over the "missile-proof" camouflage paint and to test the vehicle by all driving it, and to find out how slow it would be over the Pyrenees and elsewhere, They still didn't listen about how slow it would be especially loaded with stuff for the journey and to give away. Big night at the pub night before they set of with a team from Northern Ireland joining them there, this was a team of youngsters and they turned up with an ex-Northern Ireland Police Land Rover Discovery complete with ammunition safe and some kind of Police large decal badges I tried to persuade them to remove the safe and decals but they thought it was fun - until they were detained at a border crossing. It was well known you might have to bribe the army border guards or at least not upset them, they have rifles and it's their country not yours. Our local pub's rally is a bit different, Rust Bucket Rally, supposed to buy a car for £500(helps with sorting it and getting it logo'd wrapped if you have mates in relevant trades) drive it in Europe and return whilst getting sponsorship to raise funds for the nominated charity. - https://www.therustbucketrally.co.uk/ Fiat Cinquecento and Seicento, last of the proper sized small family cars. 👍

Hi, welcome. Have you got access to a VW appropriate scan tool to get a report and that might also active the wiper? Which fuse did you check, and did you check both sides if the fuse? Did you check the stalk switch? What made you decide to buy another motor, did you test the motor before installation?

Do the diesel engines have a chain? Look for all the usual stuff when getting a car new to you plus if you can a VW appropriate scan tool to get a report from which could also give you some negotiating leeway on interpreting any error codes (some will mean very little). Check the state of battery on any modern car, possibly another area of negotiating or later cost or attention. You need to put more info to get more info, what engine is it, gearbox, its year, personally I'd avoid any from the possible build quality issues of covid and chip shortages and after but other owners of those times might disagree.

Good point, same thing happened when Northampton town belated first got speed cameras, though one camera on one road was the second highest in the country for a good while for catching those going above the speed limit so proved its need in keeping vehicles from going above the speed limit well, (plus and a little bit) at that point.

As stated you do need to start with a thoroughly clean screen to really know one blade, or it's metal reprofiling, against previous. Halfords used to sell bottles of glass cutting polish cleaner, but no longer, that seemed good when used very occasionally, if required. Halfords also used to sell their own labelled rain repellant which seemed about as good as Rain-X, I was also gifted some expensive Japanese rain repellant stuff (and a very nice luxurious microfibre towel) and that didn't seem any better or worth its reputation or cost. I used rain repellant more for the fact it made the (very small) windscreen easier to clean on my old car which could be covered in flies at the next stop despite being cleaned at the previous stop. I still have the last little bit left in a very old bottle (shows Quaker State on it, I've no idea if that dates it) of the older Rain-X 'Super Concentrated Windscreen Washer Additive' with its instructions of squirt once into one litre of water or any pre-mixed winter washer solution, in the washer reservoir - that level of super concentrate I think disappeared a good few years back. 😄

Sorry I meant washing up liquid on the rubber blades and windscreen (when they had rubber seals) typing at speed I'm even worse than usual slow typing, I'd worry about wiping the blade rubbers with soapy washing up liquid water.

See previous posts in the thread but I'm sure I would have put about checking with the dealership for any Recalls (that VW admit to) and if there are any updates. With all the computers and their programing I'm not surprised that the computer programs can have the car drive it differently than a driver, that can be is often beneficial but perhaps sometimes (very many times for me) not so good and/or annoying. Modern cars are designed to be driven less by the driver which can be both good and bad. If there is a fault you certainly want it sorted before the warranty runs out but IF it is a fault VW (or other manufacturers) might not want to admit it or be bothered to sort it - that's IF it's a fault, I've no idea. Such modern cars are not for me, driving my neighbour's 2023 car with computer systems taking over (and failing to do it well) annoys me too much already.

xman beat me to it. - https://www.boschwiperblades.com/aerotwin/ ETA: it used to be said not to use washing up liquid on a car because of (IIRC) the ?salt? I've no idea if that was correct and still so now and wonder if the dilution would deal (ETA) with the ?salt? an issue if there was one anyway (ETA) on the wiper blade rubbers, I'd not loose sleep over such stuff. If the wipers have always had that logo on them then I've not had them but I've certainly put some Bosch boxed 'bendy' wiper blades on some car as wiper blades, and using them, is something that can irrationally annoy me and my wife is particular fussy about clearly seeing out of the windows, particularly when she's in the passenger seat co-piloting for me when I ask her to, or not. I think in America you can get longer lasting silicone blades but here and Europe we've been trained to expect to spend more and more often on our cars. On my wife's previous car I put on some expensive 'rally' 'silicone' type blades not what I was expecting, not sure if the 'rubber' was silicone or not and there was IIRC a small sachet of silicone IIRC that you applied to the screen. I've no real idea of how effective they were as it was spring and unexpectedly the car had to go shortly after that. Let us know how you get on with them and if the issues continues or returns.

Don't want to do any 'the good old days' or play the world's smallest violin but in a way a lot from my generation were lucky as we could only start with what would now be classed very much as old bangers, and back then cars got old very quickly nothing like the cars of this century when a 15 year old car could be in good condition without having so had so much done to keep it that way. So then you had to, at least try to, appreciate and then make the best of what you'd got. When I used to give advice to youngsters, and oldies, new to "classic" (over-priced and overvalued old) cars I would put it was best to learn from my mistakes because it was a lot less expensive for them and I had the lack of money to prove that experience. I also had a few brand new and not too old cars that most would say were (road) performance or sports cars and with my club activities passenger'd, on the road, in a few high performance and supercars a few times with track instructors and a magazine test driver so I know how those cars feel, at least as a passenger, at legal road speeds and for me many were just about the badges. I have driven a couple of favoured marques, one car I particularly liked how it felt and went but I found I'd gone over the speed limit (which I never intended to do) on the bit of road which was most fun, at legal speeds was far too capable to be very entertaining. It's a lot cheaper to have your minor bumps and learn your from your "upgrade/improvement" mistakes on cheaper and less powerful cars. I always try to encourage people with a car that is new to them to as much as possible and as soon as possible, over stages if needed, have the whole car checked and where required any full (for the whole car) servicing, maintenance and repair work, some/much of that can be simple stuff you can do yourself. All this whilst also driving the car in all conditions and weathers to thoroughly learn about the car, what it is capable of and how to drive it (in the real world). That way you will discover any issues and what you like and don't like and what you might want to change or what you can live with. Don't spend any money on cosmetics or improvements or upgrades, unless perhaps on a part that needs changing anyway, until you have driven the car for at least 6-12 months in all conditions. The whole car full servicing, maintenance and repairs is the best initial tuning you can do (other than further driver training perhaps) and is required otherwise further tuning could be compromised. Not jumping into changes on the car too soon also means you can sometimes find what you thought you wanted to change you've got used to or realise it's good, fine or suitable or balanced anyway. Balance of the whole car and one system or component with others is very important and why a smaller less capable car can be more fun and rewarding to drive, it may seem limited but the limits are more equal to each other. As others know I could waffle on forever, so I'll end with, there's a reason while new drivers, particularly the young, car insurance is so high and I think you realise this, apart from statistics possible the people who set the premium risks may be not be young any more so have at least the experience of having been young and not so young so know the difference same as most on here, if we can remember for some of us so we do understand your frustrations a bit of how things are. Enjoy yourself and don't worry about ego figures on paper or gauges it all about how things feel to you and not keeping in or up with others as that's ultimately impossible regardless of how high you can go or get, when the opportunity is really there to use more power (torque) whatever power you have will never be enough but those opportunities are so few that the power available is just a dormant waste. Whereas if you have less you can learn to appreciate more.

Fair enough, honest answer too. I've no idea how strict these things are allowing for speedo errors and errors in other electronic stuff, it would sharpen your observation perhaps but I can understand you want your head a bit. Problem with modern cars is that they are so capable they're boring and the more capable, fast and quick they are the more boring they are at legal speeds, they rob the driver of driver input and feedback sensations. Two ways round this I think, keep your road car for the road, forget most upgrades and mods, as Rooted has put many of them aren't upgrades or overall or specific improvements some are just differences and some workout to decrease specific or overall performance or opposite of improvements. Instead spend your money on going in track cars days/sessions (in other than your car) if you like to see needle figures (modern track cars are still boring to me but I'm not into such stuff). Having a blackbox fitted would mean more to spend on track stuff. Or you could take track instruction which should also help your road driving. This will get the rush out of your system a bit and time and road insurance higher costs will pass a bit. A way to have more fun I think is to get a smaller, lighter, less powerful probably much older car with the minimum of driver aids and creature comforts and unnecessary necessities so that you can and have to drive the car harder getting more noise and driver feedback from the standard car without the need for the exhaust to be loud to hear it through the car's insulation and a giant entertainment system. Think of much on a modern car, it that adds weight, numbs and insulates the driver from the noises and sensations of driving and actually driving the car for themselves. The more you can lose of those as they're not fitted the better generally. Might take a bit of getting used to at first but then you'll find want you've been missing as a driver by having so much added to the road cars to reduce what the driver needs to do. I appreciate this is difficult for you to understand (apart from my poor descriptive writing) without experiencing it for yourself - there again being your generation it might not be you being more used to more indirect experience enjoyment but if you don't get it soon-ish I think it'll all disappear for at least a good while if not disappear all together. Modern cars are for old-farts not youngsters like us. 😁

It's a matter of proven overall statistics, doesn't matter too much about car's performance or not, it's how it's driven and the results of the driving, if other vehicles, buildings, whatever are involved costs can **** mount. Or worst of all people injured, that's when claims can get really expensive. Even if your hit a high value car or two (and all cars really are bits of metal and plastic, worthless in the grand scheme of things) people can be high or extremely high cost if injured. IIRC claims used for held for 7 years in case further claims came up. Cars are much more expensive to repair now with everything that must (and "must") be on them. Further driver training is one of the best things for those that haven't long had a full licence and a black box as far as I can see would help with self training as well as self-regulation (well indirect to others at least). @Buddxrs you choice and decision of course but I'm curious why don't you want less expensive insurance by having a black box fitted (I assume you mean a blackbox that records/monitors your driving, motions of the car)?

Depends on which Rain-X product you used, which is why I put the hyperlink in my last post, the original repellant I don't think was designed to be used on the rubber elements, check the label instructions on the product bottle. Also depends on which Rain-X or other product you have used on the windscreen by hand and/or in the car's washer bottle or additive in put in there. I used the original Rain-X windscreen repellant (hand wiped on to screen) for decades and the truly concentrated (not like the watered down stuff now) top up additive, never had any issues other than the rake of windscreens on 1960s and 70s cars meant I'd have to go above 40mph for the water beading to happen. If you have too much "product" on the windscreen you cut clean it off by using glass cutter, just a rougher polish really but do read the label instructions and follow them, you don't want or need to use this stuff to often, apply by hand not machine. Expensive, brand, fancy name and label example, but more basic and less expensive stuff will be about, other suppliers and retailers available. - Meguiars Perfect Clarity Glass Polishing Compound 236ml -https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/interior-cleaning/meguiars-perfect-clarity-glass-polishing-compound-236ml-836830.html

I forgot the links. Rain-X products. - https://rainx.co.uk/our-products/ AutoGlym Car Glass Polish - https://www.autoglym.com/car-glass-polish-500ml.html

Which Rain-X product did you use on the wiper blade rubbers (elements)? Have you also used a Rain-X product (there are so many now) on the windscreen (or rear window)? I use AutoGlym Car Glass Polish, it's cream liquid (others are available I expect) to clean my wiper blade rubbers.

There are very few good excuses and no allowable excuses. Here in the UK the Police are usually very lenient but start explaining your version of a law as apposed to what it actually is is tolerated for so long then they either, being human, decide to stop explaining or listening to what is incorrect, they get it all the time, and get on to other stuff or perhaps be less tolerant to other infringements with the person and/or their car. People have always done this but there must have been a rise since the internet and the drop of respect for the Police and other services (sometimes dissevered but more often not). It's very much not a matter of routine that our Police offices are armed with a taser let alone a gun, which is a very good thing, but I've been told of experiences where Brits encountering others countries Police are a lot less "mouthy" seeing the firearms holster.

Uhmm if you say so, means your road position in road lane earlier might have been off-centre but let's not argue about such things the 500 driver was drifting off straight line within the lane, perhaps he wasn't concentrating, or one arm got tired, I think he remained in lane but I'm not checking. If I am wrong about anything I apologise, if it's just a case of you can't be wrong, I'm not that bothered about that either, you may know to yourself, I don't. As you are at the moment I'm glad I don't have to employ you or work with you, I'm sure the feeling is mutual. Best you stick with the certainty of correctly applied mathematics.

Yes but that's just the title of the video isn't it (what we call a*se-covering, and original title is still recorded) but that's relatively unimportant, what about learning (other than to cover your a*se belatedly), any improvement on the attitude, or pretend improvement on the attitude. I'm not giving you any more hints for you to perhaps fake things. No need to reply, best not to, I genuinely hope you've considered more but it makes no real odds if you have or haven't, back to figures, numbers, equations. 😁