Former

For joiner and hose connector I'd not want to guess. If you are fully confident in OBDEleven being accurate (I've no idea) with stalk switch and all else then back to other diagnostic tools like multimeter and you. Can your OBDEleven test the rear wiper motor by activating it? Could be any of your thoughts for wiper motor not working and boot lights being intermittent plus poor connections, broken or partially broken wires or connectors, or connectors in a poor state of contact, same for earth wires and connections. Personally I'd not fully trust any Haynes manual, Skoda Owner's Manual is down at the moment so you will have to confirm fuse locations and numbers in your paper printed copy of your Owner's Manual for the car for this info (assuming that is correct, other owner might know if that is the case). (ETA: last post arrived whilst I was still typing so a test of good live supply and earth to the wiper motor might confirm that as failed) For not working wiper motor check all possible fuses, both sides of the fuse, for live connection (with ignition on), or check at wiper motor connections for live supply and good earth and then work towards the fuse end checking connections and earths as much as possible. Inspect for damage for damage or water as you go along, wiggle wires and connectors too. Same really for interment boot lights, starting at bulbs and bulb connectors in light units. Usual applies of course for any information from any source, check it and cross reference it with if possible two other reliable sources for that information. Good luck, let us know how you get on, and if possible report back with the solution so that other owners can learn from that information.

Hi, welcome. You might get more replies from asking in the model forum that your model is in. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/353-škoda-owners-forums/ HTH, good luck.

If you don't need new drums you might be able to get the existing ones skimmed with perhaps the shoes relined.

I wonder how accurate these are for showing voltage and how long they might remain reliable, how the figures compare exactly to a multimeter and/or Carista doesn't really matter as long as the phone charger item gives constant results. Obviously you do as you feel best for you personally I would not bother too much with watching the battery voltage figures and just do periodic checks and/or battery charging as required and/or use the battery charger maintainer twice a year and then as required. You have a good new battery now and the knowledge to get a good life's use out of it so you can relax about the battery. All the best.

I get the idea that some Dealerships might only have one scan tool and no fully trained technicians or mechanics to actually use it fully and properly.

I'm with all above (other than date info for Yeti as I have no idea but accept what has been put). I doubt all places bother doing a scan on a "service", especially if the service is just an engine oil (and hopefully) filter change and perhaps a quick visual for other work. When the car battery gets too low it can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before warning lights and messages and if the battery is disconnected it can give some, add in electronic and computer and computer program errors, brain-farts and hiccups (dare I suggest also sometimes in scan tools).

That's a good point as IIRC water goes to bottom and is absorbed and the observation and testing is at only one point but I've seen enough reservoirs with dirty and potentially perhaps contaminated old brake fluid in it but I've never tested any brake fluid for moisture as I prefer preventative maintenance approach, having put that without testing perhaps the fluid needs changing before the preventative maintenance change, or perhaps it could be done later. In my limited experience black fluid is often from rubber seals. @PeterPan99 in your photo isn't the brake fluid level above the yellow plastic cage enough to get the tip of the probe to as I thought that was all that was required or is that just shadow?

Yes they seem to be a right pain, from what I've seen you just use needle nose or long nose pliers and work your way around to lift it a bit and then yank it out. I'd watch out for brake fluid splashes. I always had a moist cloth and bucket of water nearby when do brake fluid changes in case of drips. Obviously you don't want any water to get into the brake fluid reservoir. Your fluid looks very clean, which is good as it's not just the moist of brake fluid you want to check. Some don't worry about brake fluid changes, others do as your independent and you and check for moisture and hopefully the state of the fluid. I'm not so sure how good and reliable the cheap electronic brake testers are some say they're all you need, I take no chances with brakes are they are the most important item on a car, followed steering and suspension (all three include tyres), then safety electrics (lights, horn, blower, etc.) and glass (mirrors, windows) engine is down the list. You can get more expensive tester that may be more reliable or optical (refractometer) testers that don't rely on any electronics, just one example. - https://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/pdf/products/5519_Instructions.pdf 5519_Instructions.pdf HTH.

As my wife's Fabia Mk3 is from 2015 I'd be very interested to know how you get on and resolve this if you could report back when sorted please.

Hi, welcome. What did you do to get this screen, where you updating, going through a menu(s) or did the car/unit do it itself for no apparent reason? Message says "Will reset now" - did it reset?

Just checking, do you mean you disconnect the OBD2 (from the diagnosis port) after you have checked live data and separately to this you plug in to a 12v cigarette / aux socket a little digital device to show voltage, if so great.

Hi, welcome. You would probably be best asking on Superb Mk2 forum for real life experiences of fitting the 18" wheels. It will depending on the model of Superb you have and its brakes sizes. Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk-ii-2008-2015/ An answer you probably not like from me, and I am not alone with this, car manufacturers, for the UK at least, already oversize the wheels and tyres for the sake of fashion sales and as with most fashions some owners want to take thing even further, and more unnecessary. It is your family's car so they and you can do as you chose and ignore this point of view and the following. Tyres affect the braking, steering and suspension, handling, grip, noise and comfort, better smaller tyres can often offer more than larger not as good tyres. Bigger wheels with lower profile tyres can give unacceptable problems with driving on real roads, certainly in the UK, indeed many seek to downsize the wheels and get higher profile tyres than already fitted to improve matters. Good or very good appropriate tyres make a big difference regardless of their relative width and profile size. HTH.

The following reminds me of the Lotus (and Kia) M100 for various reasons, you'll see why. It's a kit-car so no where near expensive as it might look. We used to have a lot of very small and often short-lived kit-car companies, but not now, some good, some not so good and some not good, Dax was good but all depended on who built the car. We had a custom made 4-seater open Cobra replica in the club at one time the builder was so good that one of his other Cobra builds was hand-signed by Carroll Shelby.

Always take cheap or low priced electronic plug-ins or computer programs as a guide rather than always being spot-on with figures. Any electronic or computer figures are best checked with another reasonably reliable device to confirm reasonableness. Any variations between the two as long as they remain consistent can be accepted. A third device may give a third set of figures, doesn't really matter for most things as long as all are within reasonable tolerance and parameters, multimeters come to mind. Unless you are recording live data for checking or diagnosis don't leave anything plugged into the diagnosis port(?)/socket when not really required, the car's computer systems are expensive you don't want anything upsetting them or causing any harm.

One thing I meant to put, an MoT pass just means the car meet the minimum of statutory requirements to one (hopefully trained and qualified) person's opinion at that one put in time only, it doesn't mean the car generally was and is as good as it could or should be. Note as there is no mileage difference between Fail and Pass and both were done on the day I assume (always dangerous) that the same garage where it failed also done the work to get it a pass. Looking at mileage recorded - 9-9-20 to 12-11-21 is 14k-miles in 14 months 12-11-21 to 28-10-23 is 17k-miles in 23 months yet the tax ran out 22-3-22, so was 17k-miles done in 4 months or have I missed something?

Quite possible. I tried to arrange a group visit to a memory improvement class but my group including me we all forgot about it. Fabia Mk3 not available at the moment on that site., perhaps later, my virus guard doesn't like me trying to download there but I can usually view when needed, well so far, until now.

Hi, welcome. It's show as fuse 41 for my wife's 2015 Mk3, perhaps you could try a search on the 'Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)' forum (and/or ask there). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/

You may well be right, I've a vague notion of a memory of some high level brake light needing to be slid to the side but I'm not sure it was the Mk3 Fabia but as I put I've never had to do it so can't be sure and forgot my wife has a hatch and @Hassan_skoda's is an estate. My sincere apologises to @Hassan_skoda if I'm wrong - in my wife's 2015 hatch behind the high level brake light is painted full width metal of the top of the hatch door with no access panel.

There's next to none service history recorded there to interpret really. Info available from above - Octavia Estate SE-L(?) 1.5 TSI, 150ps, DSG (red colour) DPCA engine - Rooted and others might be able to say if any issues on those engines registered October 2019 tax ran out 22 March 2022 MoT until 27 October 2024 9-9-20 - 18, 641 miles 12-11-21 - 32,149 - "inspection with" engine oil change - (and(?) oil filter hopefully)? 30-11=21 - change of owner 28-10-23 - 49,642 miles - MoT MoT 28 October 2023 - PASS - 49,642 miles MoT 28 October 2023 - FAIL - 49.642 miles Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects): Offside Front Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick - Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Front Service brake excessively binding Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): - Nearside Front Brake disc worn, but not excessively Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): - Offside Front Brake disc worn, but not excessively Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): - Nearside Front Brake pad(s) wearing thin What is not recorded, but might have been done - brake fluid change(s) spark plugs DSG oil change if required - Rooted and others would know more about that I think you can ignore the cambelt change but again Rooted and others would know more about that pollen filter air-con "service" is a debateable item engine air filter is at 6years/60k-miles you'd hope the front brake pads (and perhaps discs) had been changed at last MoT

Oil & Inspection "Service" only includes engine oil filter. The rest depends on what service you sign up for, pollen filter, engine air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs - are done to schedule, no mention of "maintenance" in the online service plans that I saw or more important brake fluid change at 3(?) years. But then the Dealerships seem to do their own versions of Skoda UK "servicing" and "maintenance" and IIRC used to offer their own servicing plans too all very confusing. Might be worth asking at your local Skoda UK Dealership or perhaps a good independent (VW) garage if you have one or know of any, or one. Skoda Fixed Price Serving - on all Skoda models over 3 years - note, towards the bottom of the page, "* Price will be based on vehicle model, age, parts and labour costs. Labour rate is £95 per hour." - https://www.marshall.co.uk/skoda/service/fixed-priced-servicing/

No bolts, thin plastic flat stick maybe. You can get sets of plastic prying tools cheap, useful for other jobs including remove interior plastics, I have a few old plastic kitchen spatulas I mostly use but as I have never removed the third brake light I don't know where the tabs on the light would be and can't be sure how effective the spatulas would be. If you're very careful perhaps a small flat bladed screwdriver with using a cloth, card or paper to protect paintwork - but metal scratches more than plastic usually if you slip. Also the GT85 would possibly cause plastic to slip more against the paint surface perhaps protecting the paint more than without it - but this doesn't allow for Sod's Law. So, caution, taking plenty of time and patience all need to be in plenty stock - or good preparation might means it pops out very easily, it's never certain until its done. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

When I took apart a replacement seat belt reel assemble for a "vintage /.classic" car I was surprised to find the part that holds the retractable bit of the belt firm in an accident was quite a flimsy looking plastic assembly with just a single metal ball bearing IIRC.

That's a later Elise and a bit wasted on those (that I quickly looked at) wide American roads, the bends aren't sharp enough, the Americans really miss out not having the small UK country roads for more driver input and fun. The Elise hoods have always been a joke, better to leave them off and mop out at the end. Late 1990s on a club event on the roads I let one of our members have a go in my car so he returned the favour in his not so old at the time original (mk1) Elise, the brake pedal feel was more like a track car, I was used to much softer feel, applying earlier and lighter so the owner had to encourage me to leave the braking to later and press harder. Fabulous car to drive on UK country roads, the chassis gave the feel at each corner, gearshift was nothing to write home about but OK but pedals and driving position were good for me too. UK sports cars were not about high speeds, proper fun roads remain so at 60mph (70mph way back) or a lot less, they're about the handling, turning the steering, wheel, using the gears, brakes when needed, too long or many long straights are boring.

A mate has one of those, he used to have two, but not with the oversized wheels and tyres, supposed to be one of the best handling front wheel drive cars. Not my cup of tea as it's a 90s car and certainly looks like it by the dash, plus you apparently you can get a golf bag in the boot which puts me off any two-seater but it certainly seems to go well. A bit wide for real fun on narrow country roads. On the plus side it has an Isuzu engine and upset snobby "real" Lotus owners for very many years particularly as Kia also made it later, if I had one I'd replace the Lotus badge with the badge used on the Kias just for the sheer joy of it. 😁

If you carefully prise it out, be careful plastic breaks easily, you will be able to see if water gets in that way and consider sealing options. After cleaning the area first to remove any crud, muck, grit, that might hold parts in I like to spray plastic parts with a good lubricant like GT85 (with PTFE) to help to ease them out and back in again.