Former

If the EcoContact 6 is the new tyres they may not remain with you too long. I had a different size of EcoContact 6 tyres and there were nice and comfortable feeling with smooth dry braking but certainly not a sporty type of tyre. I saw lots of moans as many bought them not realising they start at 6.5mm. I didn't do enough miles on them to say what the wear rate might be but I think it would be high for the type of tyre - but then it depends on what you're used to and how you drive, I was quite easy on them and still had more used than I expected.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Someone already has. 😄 I can only comment on the model my wife has as that's the only one I know but I'd just look at the appropriate Driver's Handbook for whatever model or year or part-year to see if I was looking at another car. I knew within 0.792 second that the rear seat cushion didn't lift on my wife's model of hatchback and even if it did I could see within 0.923 second it didn't matter if it did as the backrest hinge was single point of pivot and too high to have the arc of the bottom of the backrest to go level with the boot floor. I'm not an engineer or mechanic but I do have some little brainpower and experience of cars. 🙃 I could make an assumption about the estate version but I don't know them and find the Driver's Handbook info incomplete, unless I missed something.

@cussy more than just you views this thread so if you want I'll certainly not reply to you any more, I was trying to help you with the limited information you gave but if you can't accept it or don't want it fine, no problem. if you didn't like my humour that's fair enough, I didn't mind your mild bit of name calling, I wish you the best and hope you get your volume issue sorted.

And what point is it a MoT advisory or not. There use to be an open link to the testers' book but I lost it or it no longer is open, just the one on gov.uk but that's more yay or nay to fail. IIRC it used to be a severe leak for a fail, Somewhere on this site I saw where misting was a quoted advisory with the relevant number but of course I can't find it now.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I don't know, the German apprentice engineer to Chinese to English translations of the 'Operating Instructions' have me foxed or it might just be me not catching on. On the estate version you can remove the seat base cushions from the vehicle and fold the backrest(s) forward, whether this allows the backrest(s) to lie flat so that the back of the backrest(s) lie level with the boot floor I don't know. With my wife's SE model of hatchback the full width rear seat base cushion doesn't appeal to move so when the split backrests are folded forward they're not level with the boot floor (unless I've missed something). (The plastic clip on the body interior side panel is handy to keep the seatbelt and its buckle out of the way is very handy though.) This from the 05.2015 'Operating Instructions' book for my wife's model, see what you make of it. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you sure you're not clowning around with the infotainment. 😉 You either think I'm a stuck record or see a theme in what I'm suggesting. When all else fails RtFM. 😉 https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/44d102a86d54031bac1445256ab3e90b_3_en_GB?ct=44d102a86d54031bac1445256ab3e90b_3_en_GB#titled712663e36257 Software updates. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ My shoes are wide size but not extra long.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @Fab1493 FYI - the front dampers were replaced last year on my wife's car as a "distress purchase" as the original set failed the MoT, I never said them so had to take their word for it and my wife needs the car so another £415 against VW quality. This year she had an independent garage do the service and pre-MoT check and they said the front dampers were leaking and would fail the MoT. So as the dampers have a 2-year warranty I contacted the Dealership to have them replaced under warranty and free MoT. Come the Mot at the Dealership and apparently the dampers aren't leaking but misting which is acceptable and funnily enough it wasn't even noted as an advisory as I discovered it can be elsewhere. I expect the situation would remain the same next year at the Dealership for MoT as the dampers would still be under warranty.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything No you don't want any Porsche stickers as you'd then have to wear sunglasses (shades / bans?) all the time even when it's dark and grey. Nothing wrong with buying low priced but you want good quality brakes and tyres on a road car as traffic is two-ways on public roads and interesting British roads are quite narrow where the steering wheel, brakes and gears are used. Track stuff is a different matter. Keeping the principle of getting the the braking and handling sorted before engine is good, so standard tyres won't best suit the car if it's being taken too much above standard not much fun on the road and they'll soon disappear on a track, Dealers are not known for fitting the most appropriate tyres but usually what they about or can get cheap, might still be a good tyre but not necessarily appropriate for what you intend but I'd guess you've still got a bargain for the wheels alone. Love the photo of the Brembo, appropriate for the more humble product perhaps, I remember years ago being told the (lesser) Brembo discs (rotors) were of unreliable quality at that time, never buy on a brand name only. I saw you put up a photo of a grey estate (barely a, station wagon) rather than a saloon (sedan) is this another car? I didn't know what "kick rocks" was but could guess and looking it up it's more polite than the usual British version. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at the Owner's Manuals (link below) as the one for my wife's car is as clear as mud on the subject (and other subjects) it looks like the estate has some bits of the rear seats are removable but as my wife's car is a hatch I'm not sure which on the estate. On my wife's 2015 (2016MY) hatch the split rear seat squabs (backrests) fold down on the seat cushions (what you sit on) so are not flat or level to boot floor level. Owner's Manual PDFs -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm not sure if that sounds like the battery or just the battery but on a 21 year old car other components and parts could be tired and making the battery work harder. A good battery fully charged, or a new battery if you need it, will help with any electrics and fault diagnostics and a poor battery or in poor condition will often hinder the electrics and fault diagnostics. Your current battery I noted was towards the bottom of the list if you're going to keep the car any length of time it'd probably pay you to buy a better battery to replace it. Even a new battery needs all connections, cables, wires, including all earths in good condition, clean, secure and protected. It depends on what you have on the car electric wise and how you use the items and the car but I'd expect very many years of battery life on a 2001 car, unless the charging or other parts was faulty or not in good condition. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I like plain black but I don't think you need worry about a sleeper appearance as I know nothing about fashion or Porkers but even I thought they looked a bit like those on the Poorchas. Why hide your work it's obvious they're not standard. And you've hit on one of the reasons, apart from fashion, why wheels got bigger to fit bigger brakes as cars got bigger, fatter, heavier, quicker, faster, sophist iced braking and driver aids. I might have misunderstood, I very often do, I think Lofty meant something like the callipers are a bit like budgie-smugglers instead of the comfort fit covering more. The pads and the tyres are more important than the disc groove and it's pattern but you'll certainly have plenty of cooling area depending on how much heat or cooling the pads like best. What wheels and tyres did you get for £25 new, very interesting? ETA: Are the discs coated and Alex are you Canadian or American at all?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough then all sounds like it could be OK. With the 120 miles how much of a clear out it is depends on how it's driven. 120 miles at the legal speed on a motorway where you're in top gear so low revs gives some systems some exercise but most are at a gentle groove. But this and your 10 mile or 20 mile shouldn't be that bad for the car, certainly not compared to how lots of similar cars are used. I'd have thought, but without evidence, that it'd be more likely other than the cat. Personally as I put I'd just change the air filter and plugs asap because my wife would worry and I'd delete the error code and have her drive the car and see if it comes back before the next "service" but for you as it's been going on months and your car is still running fine and it takes 500-1,000 miles hopefully by then you'll be at your October service. I don't know what you're using to reset the code but do check before you use it each time that you have the latest software installed on it. From the very little I know and limited experience it seems to me the basic code readers do appear to be just that and different tools show can show more information and different programs are more successful at clearing some codes than others. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Probably a wise move on your part as the Dealership might also break a tab or two but they'll not admit to it. Wonder how much they'll charge for such a job. I'm sure it's one of those very easy jobs, until it isn't. 😄 If I can I like to brush clean any fittings as it's amazing how a speck of grit or muck can seal the fixing, until you apply a little extra force then the plastic breaks, I then spray a little GT85 (with PTFE and a nice smell) to lubricate the release and reinstall. I can't undo the plastic wire connectors under the bonnet, my fingers are just too small and fat and I've just not got the knack, or the eyes, always seem to be black plastic against black plastic against a background of black.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've never done it but it looks to be a right PITA. Tabs are up top behind mirror glass so it looks like mirror out to expose them. Painted plastic cover and plastic holding tabs I'd guess would want some masking tape and the use of some plastic or non-scratching tools. Last time I touched a similar door mirror the glass broke as it was stuck to the holder and some of the multitude of thin plastic holding arms broke off too. I can't remember what I done but probably repaired it with my favourite of Blu Tack (or white), which has been holding my neighbour's rear wiper blade to the arm for about 18 months now and held a badge on the front of my car for over a dozen years, used over winters and always parked outside and other uses on cars and home.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Apart from the 250 miles every other week round trip and your recent 200 mile trips what is your usual mileage like, my wife car averages 8,000 miles but the majority of the regular journeys are only 2 miles. I'm wondering if your car battery (my pet subject) might be dipping in charge and then getting picked up again. Often if the battery is low, but not low enough to prevent the car starting and the lights seem bright enough and you get no battery warnings, but still low then often just driving the car may not be enough to fully recharge it or even drain it more. The computers work off a meagre meal and ifs ration is reduced or restricted by poor connections, wires, corrosion then they can get even more brain-farts than usual. Have you tested your battery or garage test your battery and alternator? Front dampers was a(very annoying) side issue from my wife's car and I wonder if your 2016 model had any too.

You may be able to sustain this by the use of a technical dexterity, fingers crossed, but not whilst driving.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You need to let the battery settle for a while after charging and best to check again after a few starts to see if the charge has been held but on the face of it, allowing for multimeter variations, those figure do look good, on this occasion. Sorry it's probably not the easy, quick fix I was hoping it might be but always worth checking the battery and connections when there are electric issues. Good news the battery and alternator seem OK but outweighed by your main issue. ☹️ Are you still showing 01598 and 00532?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Why not wait on ordering the loom and see how this goes first, don't forget to recharge the battery (if required) just driving the car often isn't enough to fully recharge a low battery and might even drain it more. If you've got a battery and alternator tester on you scan program(?) check that out. Good luck.

Sorry about that, Sod's Law as I got something wrong with the formatting of the post so was messing with it for a while - for it to be wrong for you. 🤭

Ever since I was caught cleaning and drying car parts in the kitchen my wife's given me drying up towels, knives, wooden and plastic kitchen tools for the shed as she uses it as an excuse to buy new ones, just for the change!!! I've even got Tupperware and do you know how expensive that plastic was! 😲

Skoda Octavia Mk2 Key Fob Battery Replacement (Quick & Easy) - Other simple but useful Skoda Octavia Mk2 videos

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Try this, but if you're doing anything with the airbag (or others electrics) best to disconnect the battery, with the battery disconnected also take this opportunity to recharge the battery too. - ETA: Also on reading it I'd never use a screwdriver on old plastic, if you haven't any plastic trim tools (like me) then you could try using old (or new) plastic spatulas or other such tools (like me, if new wash dry and return to place if you've not asked permission). And I'd use a squirt of GT85 instead of grease as grease catches and holds fluff/grit/debris/dust dirt (depending on your car)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might be a side issue but always worth sorting on a car that relies on electric to the computers for their programs and diagnostics. 01598 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ja_5shgQwl4 00532 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 Sort the battery and/or connections and/or recharge the battery fully - then delete the errors codes, drive the car and who knows (I bet some do! 😄) the misfire might not reappear. All quick, easy and almost free to try, if the misfire returns at least hopefully you've sorted the other two issues hopefully before they might lead on to other issues and you have to scroll down the screen. I always like to try the simple, easy, quick, very low cost first before moving on to the sexy stuff mainly because I know nothing about the sexy stuff other than it often leads to mess and expense. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The oil service is just an oil and filter change, or possibly partial oil change the way some garages do it, and often "free health check" I'm not sure how much road testing is done, more of an engine oil & filter. Have you had the car from new, do you know if the spark plugs and air filter have been changed - if not I'd certainly look at changing the air filter as soon as possible (tomorrow) and have a look at the state of the inside of the filter box and tubing. If not already done changing the spark plugs could help and would be overdue. The car reset will be on the engine oil change so you can do other work to help the situation. The car can be misfiring without putting up any warnings, it will though show on a scan tool that's not just a code reader. So if anyone is in your area that can give you a health report or better still also live data to read from to help pin down what to look at or for. I'd have thought the garage would have said about getting any due or overdue servicing work done like replacing air filter and spark plugs so perhaps it is more than this but this is where you'd start, with the basics. You put there was no hissing noises did you also try spraying around. Again a good scan tool would give you live data and historic data to diagnosis from but sometimes an intermittent problem can only be recorded when it happens or when the conditions are replicated, obviously you can't drive around for 500 to 1,000 miles waiting to see something happen on the scanner. As you've found the engine can still chug along not in the best of health or with interference from the sensors, their wiring connections or communications or the computers and their programs. More important are the brakes, the brake fluid would have been scheduled for two changes by now if on the 'Skoda Servicing and Maintenance'. Do remember a full service isn't just work on the engine, brakes, steering and suspension are more important (all three include tyres), then on to safety electrics and glass, lights, wipers, horns, blower, windows and mirrors, then engine and transmission and other stuff. I hope your issue isn't anything too difficult or serious, my wife car is up to a year older and 12k-miles more to go on yours. Have you had any issues with your front dampers (shocks)?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you check the Operating Manual for that or ask the lending garage, I can only lead you to the water I can't force you to take drink, I don't know so only making suggestions. 🙂 Perhaps someone will be along that knows later. Alright, have you got tinting on your rear windows thick enough to hide a celebrity clay pigeon shooter from unwanted public or paparazzi gaze - I was joking and only thinking of radio reception really. 🙃