Former

Perhaps until the new parts are fitted you could try easing on the number of gear changes you make while driving, parking up and starting the car.

Is 26 perhaps some sort of shield if grease is needed on the ball joint. I never fully rely on parts diagrams as they can often have anomalies, the drawing of clip 26 looks like it has tabs to hold it to a location perhaps but the photo of the current part looks different. I expect the full details have been lost in time.

Good news, well done - but I'm not sure if this will be the full cure of all but I know very little about mechanics so might be wrong. Checking and cleaning connectors and earth points can often help or cure problems. Add the Fabia Mk2 (1.2?) 2007 details to your name wotsit and it there each post (depending on settings). Good luck.

I did not think there would be two split rings but that photo shows two for some reason and it is best to check. I can imagine grease where there is metal against metal but is that what the workshop manual calls for? Perhaps the T-piece is made of a softer material designed to wear before part no. 1(?). I thought the split ring and/or T-piece would most likely be the guilty parties but again I do not see part no. 27 and fully understand where it goes and its function (also do not see 26 in photos).

Sounds like it might be an electrical problem(s). Basic checks are battery post clamps are both tight. the cables are in reasonable condition, the earth connections are clean, secure and protected. Then its on to wires and connectors to your dash and any associated earth wires and connections. A higher level scan tool may help and always with electrical faults and fault finding having the car battery well changed and in good condition will help, power steering can be early to show signs of a low battery - but you may have more than one problem showing at once and sometimes because of low battery charge or poor connections. Check condition and connections at fuses, fusebox, battery, relays where applicable. Others will be along with info on speed sensor and other stuff but it would help if you gave more information about which model you have (see what's under my name, logo/wotsit.

I suggested bent wire or cable-ties earlier but now I am not sure which the problem part is. Does the T-piece need one or two split rings and and is/are it/they fitted? Is part No 26 (6U0711965) still fitted and in good condition? I cannot make much out in the photos, so could it be that the mechanic means one or two split rings are needed? OR - does the mechanic mean the part that needs renewing is the ball part (presumably part no.1(?) as it is worn?

Yeah my bad I was thinking of fluid leak (and pedal sinking to floor rather than as normal) that does go through the engine and out of the exhaust as white smoke. Whatever the cause Kharl has found a couple of things wrong with his brakes. Personally I'd still want a good flush after putting compressed air through the lines as I've known lots of **** come off seals and elsewhere and be in the system more than just the lines, including the insides of reservoirs coated.

Yes, but I thought you had recently bought (fitted) the kit below, did it include one (or two) split rings already? One part often helps another so, if it is in that area, is part No 26 (6U0711965) still fitted and in good condition, if not renew it.

To check booster - with engine off step on brake pedal - pedal hard, take foot off pedal, start the engine and step on the brake pedal if pedal sinks it's the booster. ETA: Wrong, doh, thinking of fluid leak.

As in photo below, are there two split rings supplied with the part or only one, is/are the split ring(s) fitted inside the ball joint of Part 29, has a previous split ring been left on the ball of the static part (same way a previous oil filler seal can be left on an oil filter housing). I am not sure where it goes but is part No 26 (6U0711965) still fitted and in good condition.

I thought you were after 'Securing cap 6U0711460', who really has it in stock and real cost I do not know but if NOS of good quality at 0.98 Euro (plus P&P of course) I would buy a few spare for stock. https://www.oemvwshop.com/6u0711460-securing-cap-p321662/ https://www.maxspeed.ae/carparts/product/VW/6U0711460/ https://www.mecatechnic.com/en-GB/6u0-711-460_C231556.htm

It looks a right pain to get at but if you had a lift you could try as a temporary measure perhaps bent wire or cable-ties perhaps with a couple sets of needle-noses pliers and time and patience. As an owner you have a lot more incentive, time and lower labour costs than a mechanic.

From the list, good price within the list too, I put on my wife's Fabia Mk3 last year IIRC a Varta but it has a Bosch label on it. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/d52/

other Rapid owners seem to have gone for 027 AGM batteries (Tayna's database has the Rapids as like the one I owned in the 80s). I have their Enduroline battery on my car and it's been fit and forget but my car doesn't have all the VW (over-complicated, I wonder why) computer programs. Enduroline 027 AGM Capacity (C20): 60 Ah - CCA (EN): 680 A - Length: 242 mm - Guarantee: 5 Years https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027-agm/ New figures are fine but it's how long the battery can sustain keeping close to those figures and how reliably, generally the bigger the battery the more it holds.. 096 AGM - Length: 278 mm- https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-agm/

Forget the exact details but depending on the type of fob remote system - if you keep both fobs close to each other and within range of the car they can compete with each other and/or the car to interact and wear themselves down, always remember computers are basically very stupid.

It is your long trips that has you carrying the extra weight, four wheels and tyres on the roof and a David Attenborough living and survival kit in the car, you use your car a bit different to UK owners. 🙂 Let us know what it turns out to be and if the pothole caused any other damage, good luck.

Hitting the hole might be a coincidence or as I remember it your car caries a lot of weight so the shock might shake up and distributed the crud in the braking system more. Or it might be some other sort of damage to the front so once the wheels are off a close inspection of all in those areas but with both front brakes staying on and hitting a pothole only one side, subject to what might be found on inspection, the brakes are the place to start. A very thorough flushing of the whole system might be in order, the colour and state of the current fluid might show what is required and what has been happening. With brakes (and suspension, which both include tyres) it is best to replace both sides to keep things even, or even sets of four if required, so braking, steering and handling remain straight.

Yes this is why car manufacturers test their cars in very hot and cold climates and weather. A good quality appropriate oil will cover the heat range better working well at both ends. Sometimes different blends of oils are used on gearboxes that are more awkward at cold starts and cold weather but unless you say differently I do not think the temperatures in Macedonia are a lot different to the UK. The oil choice can improve things but not to any great extent and will not repair faulty/bad/broken mechanicals/electrics/electronics inside or outside the gearbox. Even with a very poor quality oil the gear lever shifting should be no more than perhaps a little stiff when cold still easily useable if not super smooth. The temperature can have effects on mechanicals and the lovely computers - BUT you have not replied to my or Ken's or my question so we are stuck on the oil which may not be the problem, many other things might be the problem instead. If your mechanic does not know what he is doing then go to one that does.

If it's both sides could it be the master cylinder, how were the back brakes, if you open a bleed valve and the wheels turn freely then it might be the master cylinder or booster sticking. How To Find Out If You Have A Bad Brake Hose -

raky, wait for the diagnostic expert's scan tool, knowledge and experience, as you have found just going off one generic code doesn't tell you a lot and just looking around isn't conclusive. You have used a sensitive tool, your nose, to tell your brain that you the car is running rich (at sometimes at least unless you have a petrol leak) the car's brain can generally report it's running lean and then perhaps compensate for this by running rich. Personally I wouldn't trust any your scan tools figures that you have shown on here and the diagnostics expert will go by the figures from his higher level scan tool. If he's any good I'm sure you'll wish you had gone to him sooner. Good luck.

Were any other change(s) or adjustment(s) made at the same time as the oil change (as this would more likely be a possible cause)? "Fully synthetic" with many oils is is a more of a marketing term than technical description but a good appropriate oil is a good appropriate oil regardless of how it is termed. A hot thorough oil replacement can have noticeable improvement and perhaps helps things a bit and even the more usual quick cold (more partial) change may give a noticeable improvement and help a bit but unless a totally inappropriate oil has been put in I cannot see things suddenly becoming very rigid. I have made quite a few gearbox and axle oil changes on my old cars, and on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, and they have made noticeable improvements, some very noticeable improvements and others slight but improvement. VW don't blend oil AFAIK but their engineers and sales departments may well come up with, for many and various reasons, oil specifications, to perhaps cover shortfalls in design and build of their products (mass production brings lots of compromises) and then perhaps alter the specifications from real world use highlighting expected and unexpected issues and restricting the choice of oils has commercial benefits for the car manufacturer. Been the same for decades.

Only a guess without seeing what and how 29 fixes but 27 might be a weak point but you would need to see from underneath really.

Would it depend on how Parts 26 and 27(?) relate to Part 29 and how worn or not any or all three parts are, I do not know but might it only be something to do with the ring or ball joint shown in the image of Part 29.

@hetty1 was after someone to plug in an appropriate level scan tool to see if the passenger seat belt warning has been disabled for any reason (or if it might show up wiring/communication/connector fault) as the warning light does not come on when his wife is sitting in the passenger seat and accidentally forgets to put on her seatbelt. A full scan report is always useful too and perhaps clear any historical codes that have been missed. For whatever reason @hetty1isn't able to see the 'Message' button to contact you directly. He's in the Wirral which looked to me to be not too far from Liverpool but I don't know the area at all. I'll leave it with you both now.

Yes, I must admit I missed that bit. Blimey how bad are the mechanics out your way, do none of them have any training or pass any tests or are they just lazy and bad workmen (our country has many like that, they think their customers are something they trod in and need to clear from the soles of their boots).