nta16

Well they should have done that's what the horn is for, to say I am here. More fun as you can hear the engine and suspension and depending on car induction noise, gearbox, back axle (whine), exhaust (but not tyre noise) and you are think about the road and possibly hazards and other traffic, using your brain and senses, the steering wheel (15.5" (39cm) in a Midget), clutch, gears and hopefully not too much braking, you are driving the car rather than in more modern cars were they do most of the driving for you. You are enjoying the road, the scenery and the car, not just the car, you can go round (and round and round . . .) on a track if you only want to enjoy the car.

Yes but the title on the video should have given me. a clue. 😄 On second watch it wasn't a great video because somehow the camera angle flatten everything out and it was more like another pass in Wales really. I don't think I've ever heard of the Welsh pass as Hellfire Pass which probably added to my confusion, I was thinking of but couldn't remember Pass of the Cross. I remember see a sign that said it was an Austin test road so it was quite apt when I took the Spridget being Austin A30 based. I also learnt after driving it for a few years that another road was called the Devil's Staircase, another favourite of mine but I think these names became more popular when lycra clan men on pushbikes without mudguards became weekend cyclists had to say they'd cycled such places. When we were full-time cyclist (no car at all) and in the Cycling Touring Club we often had a good country pub as our destination and only racers wore lycra, now even the old boys with pendulous bellys (as I've had) in the CTC wear lycra but each to their own. We just used to tour round no overnight stays booked just head towards the best looking weather and find the white (unclassified) roads in the road atlas and see what we found, no mobile phone when we first start and lots of lack of signal anyway when my wife first got one. A lot of the Welsh roads aren't as fast as many in Scotland so suited the likes of a Spridget, a lot of the empty (at the time) Scottish roads were more faster cars territory but they're not the roads I prefer.

The following is the road I meant to link to, it's only about 13 miles (21km) long but you can link in with other great roads nearby and make a good morning drive, stop for lunch and go to and link in other similar roads yo make a great afternoon before returning to the pub for games, evening meal, a couple of ales then bed, that got earlier as the years went on. Great to be in the area when they are training (often overseas) jet fighter pilots. This isn't a great video and only shows a small part of the road which varies a bit from what's in the video, and you need to mute the sound, but it gives an idea. Even in Wales it doesn't always rain in fact most years were sunny and warm, we went on the roads in both directions more than once each day let alone each year of most of the 10 years we had our own Wales tours with just our friends in a wider Toyota Supra (Midget is 1.37m wide, Supra 1.81m), we often had to wait for the 3 litre turbo car to catch up with our 1275cc na, especially on some of the other roads if other vehicles were coming from the other direction. Note the Audi driver (of course) needing the whole road and four wheels on tarmac, same for the posh 4X4s even on wider roads, local drivers and proper Landies (Land Rover) usual went by with hardly slowing down and wheels off tarmac.

B*gger, I linked to the wrong place, should have realised by the snow poles and all the water, I've mixed up my country roads (and countries). I've only been over that six times times, three times each way, first times in early 90s and last times in 1999. Third time I left my wallet at the pub in Applecross after pub lunch there on a club tour but I didn't realised until the afternoon tea stop by which time we were about 80 miles away and had another 40 or so to get to our hotel to book in, Next day was a do as you please day so I could drive back to the pub to collect my wallet so I asked if anyone else want to go back with me but no one did so my wife very reluctantly went with me, she doesn't like "pointy-roads". On the way to the pub the day before on the steep bit I was gunning it up as usual (I love going up, but not so much coming down) halfway up she said she could smell oil and as I'd had the car serviced shortly before (engine oil and filter change, I insisted they used the Mobil 1 I bought) I thought I'd better check on the flat bit after. Of course everything was fine, just an alternative to the verbal handbrake. We had a new Mk2 MX-5 1.6i then, easily capable of such routes (V8 might have been even more fun). Before the car was a year old I changed the Yoko tyres fitted to Rain Experts as the car and Yokos overflattered my (lack of) driving skills and I prefer extra wet grip and less dry grip.

A quick look at the video (no translation) those look a much longer and sustained higher roads don't seem as varied though, some are two--track roads and another I saw without a car on so can't judge the road with. The roads over here are not risky, there are even guard rails on higher bits with steep sides, more risk on local roads you know well with two-lanes, or more, full width lanes, you drive to the circumstances.

It does if below 20kmh is required, plus do you know how accurate your speedo is at 20kmh (errors are not necessarily linear across the range) I don't expect it'll be much but some old cable driven speedos have wobbly needles and speedo had/have inaccuracy from the factory anyway.. Looking at the speedo is a distraction in itself and eyes and attention off road, car and handling time. You are not doing the same in the same various circumstances so you can expect different results. Sorry, it might be the perspective of the first video rather than the real experience in the car but I didn't seen anything aggressive. Thumbs hooked over steering wheel spokes and right hand off the steering wheel but not on the gear lever with too much lingering, I thought not anything aggressive with turning - but I'm not a good driver so could be wrong. The car in front cut you up, not sure about your indication for turning off, and you crossed the solid white line on the right far too early and started the exist lane earlier than road marking. I've no real idea of speed other than you might have made a 6 to 4 gear change, doubt 4 to 2. If that was a 'Give Way' at the end you didn't look over your shoulder just glanced at the door mirror. But all seemed well within the car and your capabilities. Second video, again it might be the video perspective and that I'm used to rhd car driving on the LHS of the road but I didn't see anything that aggressive, and again I didn't like the right hand lingering on and around the gear stick and the position of the hand on the steering wheel (particularly if you were on a public road) but I'm not a drifter and much more used to RWD cars and (slight) power or unintentional (a couple of times, very) oversteer. My wife had a car which could be provoked into crazy understeer at very mild speeds (on a private road, not that there is such a thing in the UK if the general public are allowed on it). If you want to you could perhaps learn power understeer (and and power oversteer) with courses off of the public roads, personally I'd not recommend using your own car for this as the basic principals are the same on a similar car of different make and model. Or better still perhaps advanced and smooth road driving course. As I have put before I have been out as a passenger on public roads in a a few powerful cars being driven by professional tack instructors and professional magazine test drivers and the things that are most noticeable is how smooth and relaxed they drive and handle the car, it actual makes it feel as if you are going slower than you actually are (always obeying the road speed limits). The one time I went out on a classic car track driving experience day (in an racer E-tpye, Mk2 Jaggg, and another I can't recall at the moment) one of the instructors with me told me off for going too slow. Whoever was driving it looked like the car was going in reverse when a Junior single-seater came by and cut in front for the track line. Best for me was the going out in a two-seater fully open track special, as it was raining quite hard they said they would have to ask the driver if he was willing to go out luckily he was. He said my seat would be very wet but I explained I was used to driving reasonably powerful fully open cars on the road and getting wet sometimes. The non-drivers seat was wet, it soaked my trousers for me as soon as I sat in and the rest of me was soaked by the time the harness was on and checked. Big puddle on the way out of paddock, car aquaplaned over that, very wet on track entry road and more wheel spinning, then up to speed on the track was great, very settled with just a few twitches from the car perhaps braking or down-changes, I think the driver was putting in a bit more for me based on what I had told him. I'm sure it wouldn't have been as much fun in the dry, or lighter rain.

Was that correct or just a bit too much - I don't know I wasn't there or driving (not that I am a good driver). Was that amount of turn already too much and the understeer happening before you noticed it - I don't know I wasn't there or driving (not that I am a good driver). You say yourself you don't drive the car at anywhere near it's limit so why you know when you are (regardless of actual speed or where needle dials point) too fast has no real lower speed limit, other than zero perhaps, all depends on the various circumstances - I don't know you or car or your driving experience or abilities and I repeat I am not a good driver. (looks like) Down hill very sharp turn unless going very slow indeed the car won't be at level (not ground level) balance, perhaps a clash of engineering theory expectations and what happens with real world variances. If you can say for certain that a trained and experienced driver would meet the same result if they had been driving at that time taking your car round that sharp turn, then yes it is the car that can be found lacking in this instant.

Which road is one way? The video I posted shows a one-car-width, two-way road (with some passing places), with high snow-poles to mark out where the road runs - didn't you see the larger van and five cars coming in the opposite direction? That's a wide road, did you not see the narrow road (just over one car width, with some passing places) with walls or other (hedges, trees) higher than the car on both sides of the one-car-width, two-way road. On some bits you have to guess if a car is coming the other way or if you saw them much further up the road how quickly you will going in opposite directions or if they have pulled over somewhere waiting for you or not paying enough attention to have seen your when you saw their car or other vehicle. All more difficult when in a lower set sports car, not so bad in a Land Rover, SUV, 4X4, motorhome, bigger van., tractor, motorbike, idiot delivery van driver blindly following a car (tw*tnav) satnav system -

Sounds like you made a classic mistake(s), we have all done it, see this article. - "Once you’ve realized that you are in an understeer situation, calmly return the steering wheel to straight. If you are in a corner, turn into the direction you are skidding slightly. This will align the wheels with the direction the vehicle is moving, allowing the tires to start turning again to create grip." - https://www.wikihow.com/Correct-Understeer-During-Cornering ETA: ABS is for braking and steering, if you don't need to brake unnecessarily you don't need the ABS or need it.

So annoying when you get a no-show especially if they don't let you know beforehand and don't contact to apologise at any point, perhaps something happened that prevented all this, otherwise it's the usual level of professionalism from some professional tradespeople (well men almost always). All being well it could be something quite minor, a higher level commercial scanner suited to VW programs should help more, may still be something basic like wires or connections. If you need to replace a sensor don't go for cheap new unless you're certain it'll work fully and reliably for a reasonable amount of time, paying more for original as fitted at factory can sometimes work out cheaper in the short, medium and long term, even perhaps second-hand factory original are better than cheap unreliable new but of course s/h can be a gamble. Fuel pump or relays (depending on relay) is usually just get a good reliable make, Mk2 owners and others would know about this for your model whereas I don't. The battery charger maintainer will still be a good investment, pass it on to your daughter, if she doesn't pay the electric bills at home she may think a car's electric supply is limitless and can be consumed as fast and as much as she wants at anytime - or fit a coin slot-meter off the car's battery. 😄 I hope you'll instruct her to check the tyres and brake fluid. To clear the whole car of snow and not just turn the wipers and stereo on and drive off - and if she's borrowing it to return to you with at least as much fuel, if not more. 😄 Let us know how you get on with car in the end, daughter I expect will be ongoing. 😄 Good luck.

I don't see a problem with the roads in either photo but I do see perhaps some poor quality overtaking if both the car and bike are travelling towards your car travelling in the opposite direction to you taking the photo (video). One of my favorite driving roads in Wales, helped by the fact there are also more great and different driving roads nearby and the likes of the general Porsche/Audi drivers go on the other faster but less interesting roads advertised by the type of TV, magazines and websites they read and watch, and plenty of great British classic pubs selling and keeping well decent ale cask ale and a lot of locals like rally driving so yoy are more likily to hold them up rather than the other way round. This vid gives you no idea of the climbs or drops, the lumps, humps and jumps in the road or the unevenness pf the surface sometimes and holes - and it's not raining or very wet from previous rain fall(s). Still gibes some idea. -

With old stock or new brought bulbs it's best to test them when new and before fitting - I usually remember this just after fully securing the lens cover. New bulbs tend to be pretty poor now I try to get the X2 or X3 life bulbs because 'off the shelf' ones don't seem to last even if they work 'out of the box'. Old cheaper bulbs can vibrate to death if kept in car or cars for many years, or were faulty when they were new anyway. Before swapping over bulbs test both sides are working, with the lenses covers off, putting the hazard on for indicators, then test after swapping the bulbs over sides with the lenses covers off. I once had a neighbour new brake light bulb that when the brake pedal was dabbed was fine but when the pedal was held it went out, the filament broke away from one end with the sustained heat and then dropped back on when cooling, not something you'd think of, and I didn't possibly one of those things you had to see to believe, but it happened. I've also had an intermittent fuse but that's another story. Let us know how you get on.

Hi Dykey, I just realised I might have misread your post do you mean the bulb doesn't work or the car still shows it as not working. If it's the bulb not working post straight back, what years is your car?. No there not a fuse for just one indicator. If its car still showing the bulb not working but the bulb is working - see if the warning remains after you'd driven the car a distance and/or switched the engine and ignition off and back on next time you want to drive the car (the old computer "switch it off 'n' on agen". Let us know how you get on.

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@robbie62 what was the outcome?

What roads , where. That picture is too small for me to see much but in that photo the road looks plenty wide enough even with the pine needles at the edges to get a couple of traditional English sports cars easily passed each other going in opposite directions. If on any road only 4X4s can go on it then yes avoid that road, if most average SUVs with average SUV drivers can go on it then you could probably get a traditional English sportscar along it. The Lotus Elise is a bit low but that was more biased towards road to track mentality. You seem to mistake where the needle points on the speedo with speed and fun, I'm not talking about track driving and ego figures. The many turns is the fun, no you don't put yourself or others in danger so you avoid going on it if you know there will be slower drivers. Two drivers, one behind the other in totally different cars can be on the same road, one in a capable modern family car so bored they have to have some form of in-car entertainment on, the other in a lower powered old car where the drive and driving are the entertainment - both will be travelling at the same speed. Do you really think that England, Scotland and Wales doesn't have fun, and all other, roads that have been allowed to deteriorate and get potholes. If your only aim is to go as fast as you can you need to be on a track.

Thanks, that' what made me wonder also about a bar or other form of reinforcement or load spreading but I'm probably flattering the build.

Yes Insurance companies have authorised the use of used parts for a while now, covid, chip, and other shortages have encourage plus the ply to recycling/environment. For very old cars (30+ years old) many of the parts, certainly not all, were better made and will fit without alterations and work beyond a new part's life.

@NottsIan if a clip is broken already you can take more risk on getting it out, taking regard of the plastic panel of course, but if the clip is unbroken as in your case you can't be expected to risk breaking anything just to find out how it's fitted in, good of you to look. My thoughts were that if this retractable parcel shelf is really a retractable cover, without any additional support to the cover, and it retracts under not too much pressure then the clip fittings don't require that much reinforcement to the fixing. Why they might be so fiddly or not straight forward to hook up I don't know as I've never seen one but a bit of "design" can add to perceived value and selling price. I don't know but I was also thinking If this retractable shelf is an extra to the model often then there might be blanking plates before the clips are fitted and I'd expect them to be quick and easy to replace with clips otherwise fixing time is lost whether the installation is paid extra for not. So many different plastic fitting on cars just for hold covers and panels on let alone bag hook, nets, etc., etc . . . 🙃 Be interesting to find out now how the clips are held in and removed.

You have the car, clips and panel so would know better than I as I'm only guessing really. If you say there's a full flange rather than tangs then that's it as I can't find the clips to look at on a Google search. Someone with access to ETKA may be able to put up an image showing the clips which may or may not show detail of the clip but at least there would be a part number to do more search on,, clips just brings up panel or other clips. This is why I'd try a Dealership parts department. I got a plastic "emergency" lock cover and another time a plastic seat handle from our (very) local Dealership for a lower price and quicker than ordering elsewhere. They can show you and even print off the relevant parts diagram.

@Dieselgate what did you decide to do about servicing in the end?

If the panel is difficult to get out then perhaps going to the Skoda Dealership parts department looking at the parts drawing and see what these clips parts look like and if they secure to anything out of sight, find the cost and availability of the clips and buy as required. Or as I put I might try to carefully prise the clip part out of the panel. Looks like possible this clip might have been glued already, image not high enough resolution for my eyes to tell. Good luck.

Never fully trust parts lists from such companies, they list parts for the various specs of the model and no doubt will contain errors. I don't know if the whole Karoq range have the same dampers and/or which other Skoda (or VW other brand) models may have those dampers. If there's a 'sports' version or other variant in a model range it may have different dampers to the others perhaps. The parts companies might note this type of thing. Easiest way is to Just start a new thread on there. On changing your front dampers to B6 if you can or do, if you notice difference then it could be the B6s to factory swap, the dampers being new, the dampers being new B6s, also depends on how bad or not your present front dampers are and same for the rear dampers wear. Then there might be a difference between B6 and factory dampers on the road even if the rear dampers were also new. I don't know how noticeable the difference would be having two or four B6s fitted (against 2 or 4 new factory) unless you were pushing things, or heavily loaded as seems the B6s speciality. The B6s may well give reliable service for longer than the factory dampers based on the experience with my wife's Fabia. You perhaps also need a Karoq Edition owner that has fitted two B6s to the front and drives and loads the car in the same way as you but even then it can be subjective. Depending on its age and model of your wife's BMW M Sport it could have a very complex suspension system (as you might discover if you need to do anything on it or the wheels or tyres) you should expect more from that suspension, if you haven't already you may find you pay for that complexity sometime in the future. Passats from what the owners have told me are particularly comfortable riding cars, saloons are lower and with a reasonable length wheelbase, Passat and BMW M Sport are different kettles of fish to modern SUV (or whatever the Karoq is classed as or called). See how you get on with the Karoq forum.

Use an appropriate charger and maintainer and follow the instruction in the car's Owner's Manual (especially if you have stop/start) and the instructions for the charger maintainer. Get it on charge ASAP (after checking terminals and connections) and use as low amps charge for as long as possible to fully charge the battery (as much as possible before tomorrow's visit), quick and fast won't be as good. If the battery is at a good charge and in good condition it won't take as long to get to full and you can leave it on maintain. If battery terminal and/or main earth connections are poor and/or the battery is in a very low state of charge (and perhaps condition) and you sort these things you might not need the auto-electrician but if it's other, as well or instead of, you will anyway or a full run of diagnosis and perhaps wires and connections wiggling (and perhaps heating and cooling). Or it might be pump or its relay or something left field perhaps. Good luck, let us know how you get on and what the final resolve is.

If you still have the broken bits you could try superglueing all back together or possibly(?) it looks like to me in your image that the whole clip piece might(?) come out of the inner boot panel(?) and possibly available as a replacement part/fitting(?). But I've no idea as I've never seen one. You might be able to prise them out using a suitable plastic tool or implement or careful use of a screwdriver and cloth so as not to scratch the plastic panel pattern. Or it might be easier to remove the whole plastic panel and see wot's wot - but again I don't know. For future car stuff photos, if taken in landscape they usually offer more frame information than in portrait (depends on shot of course) - possibly two clips in frame with landscape, a broken clip and other not broken, if possible.