nta16

@Rooted I think, but have no real idea as I wasn't there or talking with the person from the insurance, that the insurance company may have meant the insurance policy was good for vehicles or mods up to 200hp but not that the overtune or car was suitably set up for such or 140hp, or 110hp, but the tune of the whole car may include the factory differences for all we know, though like you I doubt it other than hopefully, if required, but not necessarily brakes including of course the tyres as part of the braking system. Bear in mind also this is not UK, but again I thought Sweden was stricter about cars than the UK but have never been (anywhere near) there. You and I would probably not need a note in a glovebox to imagine if a 95hp felt too lively on a test drive but would really wonder about it if we thought we were looking at buying a 95hp and it went so in excess of what we were expecting. Off topic warning My neighbour told me his new car was 270hp and when I asked if he meant perhaps torque he said hp, I drove it and confirmed he was mistaken, it turned out on website to be up to (?) 270nm (1800-3750) for the model and max. 155hp (unstated). It has horrible electronics and programing for electronic handbrake especially when combined with start/stop, On give way slowing and quick pull off from roundabouts engine cuts out , or trying to get off very wet mud with the front wheels on 2wd (bl**dy oversized wheels and and oversized (road) tyres). Very intermittent lane annoyance warning thing even when provoked over a long stretch of white lines. Made the VW Fabia start/stop seem very accomplished (mechanical handbrake probably helps too). BTW thanks for the compliment about the petrol list but I just copied off someone else and updated it, I no longer need to worry about such things or inform others about ethanol-free, or can put it in my neighbour's cheap Chinese mower engine so I'm well out of the loop as they say, and you gave me a load of info on this anyway (thanks). Cheers.

Well done - very different usually in the UK. AFAIK in the UK you can get the 95hp or 110hp models from factory new but they are sold as different models and the 110hp is not offered as a factory or Skoda UK update on a 95hp but others will know better and more than me on this (and a lot else). Not much point you having the 40+% over tune then and unless you want to go at higher illegal speeds the 95hp, let alone 110hp should give you enough unless you are fully loaded with passengers and luggage and perhaps a roof rack box and or going up a very long and steep slope, in which case appropriate use of the gears well before the engine labours and/or the car has lost too much momentum (driver experience and/or driver training helps with stuff like this). Unless you want to drive at illegal speeds or do a lot of fast overtaking on a motorway normally you need extra power and torque probably a lot less than on other roads. On a flat roads at a steady speed without a strong wind blowing in the opposite direction you may well be very surprised at how little hp is need to sustain the speed and momentum. ETA: I have driven cars with (claimed) 64hp and less all across the UK, and bits of France, Belgium and Germany, and on the autobahn, with Porsche, Toyota Supra and (new) Jag XK V8 friends and we barely got to 70mph (112kph) and were actually stationary at points, so much for unlimited. 😄 More hp and particularly torque is usually very nice but on the occasions you really want it and can actually use it whatever you have will seem as if you would like more. A way round this is with whatever power you have you can reduce weight and resistance to going forward. All modern cars are heavy (particularly lardy VWs) because of all the legal requirement and nicety aids on the car so you can do nothing about them but you can remove things like roof and bike racks when not in use, have lower resistant tyres, don't keep junk in the car or boot or unnecessary tools and parts, don't put on or keep on unnecessary electric loads on the car, think ahead before braking and braking hard losing momentum, same for the need to accelerate. If you went out with a good track driver or track instructor you would notice more how smoothly they drive rather than the speed (you would probably think the car is going slower than it actually is). When driving my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI 90hp I do notice the difference when having two extra rear passengers to when it's just my wife and I in the car even on ordinary roads but it's still easily more than sufficient for needs. As you are new to the car (and possibly an inexperienced driver) read the Owner's (driver's) Manual that came with the car new, despite what men with often (self-proclaimed) large testicles might lead you to believe it's not against any law or unmanly to read it and refer to it, it will tell you a lot about driving and maintaining and even simple stuff to prevent the need of consulting garages for "repairs" (if you are a woman you will already know to ignore such men on many matters). When I used to have cars new to me, after any brake, steering or suspension priorities obviously, my first thing would be to check the battery is appropriate, good condition and state of charge. I would suggest you fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (go for low and slow recharge as possible), if this isn't really required then it won't take long anyway, if the battery is low then good job you checked and it could take many hours to fully recharge, do it split between car use if required. When it is full you have a good point to judge the battery from and hopefully won't be a statistic for the number one cause of breakdown call-outs (in the UK at least). And you know the battery is fully charged for any other electrical or starting issues you might encounter (not that I think you should gave any based only on what is put here). Before this I would hope you have checked the tyre pressures are correct (including spare if there is one or you carry one). Also checked the condition of the tyres as someone who bothers with 40+% overtune probably made use of this and it may give more wear and tear to the tyres. I personally would want at least both tyres at each axles to be the appropriate specification and exactly same make, model and age, preferably all four (five?). Whilst at the wheels you can look through at the brakes to see how they look, remove wheel(s) if a closer look is required. I would check when the brake fluid was last changed (should have been changed a couple of times twice to UK schedule) and look at the level and colour of it in the brake reservoir. I would change the air filter and spark plugs (if it's the same as my wife's car you have to take the PITA air filter box off to get at the plugs anyway). Unless I had good evidence that it had ben done in a reasonable time and timely way I would also change the engine oil and filter - but wait for warmer weather than this time of year if doing it myself. I would check all lights all work when all switched fully on and all on together, a poor earth and other issues perhaps tend to show when doing this. Clean all lights (and both number plates and external mirrors, rear window if required). Check windscreen (and rear) washers work and condition of rubber wiper blades (elements), clean them too. I would recommend you drive the car for at least one year round before doing any cosmetic changes or other changes to see what you might be able to live with a is and save the money for servicing, maintenance and any repairs especially any unexpected ones, the car is about 5 years old and 75,000 miles use, it's a German based car not a Japanese built car. That is more than enough for now. Keep coming back and let us know how you get on, return and (if appropriate start new threads) if you more questions and/or issues. Good luck.

Some "classic" or "vintage" car insurance companies may offer cars over 20 years old "classic" (there's no such thing it's just a name) insurance polices, they're not on any comparison sites AFAIK and they don't have to be known names necessarily. And I'm not talking about the old farts' type of policies of limited mileage, not using the car out of daylight, having it locked away in a garage, factory standard only. Until 2 years ago for 30+ years I used various "classic" cars as dailies, for work, leisure, pleasure. The last policy which I had for 13 years (not business use with this car) was for fully comp, wife also as driver, modified, parked on hard(luck) standing, no excess, real agreed value, windscreen, IIRC unlimited mileage, legal cover, UK & Europe breakdown & recovery all thrown in at no extra charge. IIRC £110 two years ago, I could have got it for less but I had used the breakdown and recovery a few times times and windscreen a couple times more, One time I put diesel in, proper AA wrong fuel van (only ones to have it the very nice AA man told me, side-line in trailering classic cars too). All call-outs never affected the premiums and the service was good from this and policy cover as mentioned so I was happy with what I got.

That is different here as so few companies actually cover the mass market though they have different brands and companies. The comparison sites don't have dodgy companies on them though the "cheap" ones may have everything outsourced and dealt with from outside the UK. As often happens with other stuff the "cheap" insurances are often fine until you need to make a claim and then they may turn out to be more expensive than some of the "expensive" alternatives.

You don't have to but I am concerned about whether you insured the car as factory standard and it is not as to how your insurer will take this - and 110hp is not the original 95hp for your car so is an over tune for insurance purposes stuill. 95hp, 110hp or 140hp (or 400hp or 700hp) doesn't matter but how it is used is a different matter. I don't know exactly what is done to get from 95hp to 110hp on these engines (I could guess) but @Rooted probably knows the details. The only difference if dropping to 110hp or 95hp I can think of (others may know more) is to ask the tuner if the spark plugs were a difference specification for the tuning but if you change them away and are going back to factory spec to tune for the mapping then you will get factory spec plugs anyway (careful to get genuine NGK). Otherwise 95hp or 110hp or 140hp all the servicing and maintenance I listed I personally would still do, you could save a tiny fraction by using factory specified make and model of good engine oil instead of using a very good proper full synthetic engine (and perhaps gearbox) oil(s). No problem with asking questions. How well something like the gearbox and clutch lasts (regardless of power) is a lot about how the car is driven, the driver (and I am not a great driver, or further trained) What gearbox is fitted to your car?

Compared to what? If you had a brand new filter to compare it with it is easier to tell how clean your present filter might be, if it is a paper filament filter you could try holding it up to the sun if it is shining to see how much you can see through the filter. Change the spark plugs as tuner's recommendation, I would go with 30K and use god quality like NGK of the equivalent the tuner has used. I would change the engine oil at 15K or yearly whichever is soonest and use a very good quality proper fully synthetic engine oil of the tuner's specified multigrade (xW-yO). When the car is 10 or 12 years old, or actually sooner personally, I would change the coolant, whilst the antifreeze part might be ok when people test it the additives tend to deplete sooner (same for oils). I would also change the oil in the manual gearbox, and as appropriate to the DSG Rooted would know about that, I only like manual boxes. Petrol - you can research for yourself the difference in octane but also note in the UK at least the higher octane petrols also have higher additive packages, mainly cleaners and the cleaner the engine runs the better generally, another reason for good air filtering, think of the engine as a giant air pump and all the stuff that is in the air (like fumes and bits of rubber oversized wheels and tyres on all modern cars). At a 40+% increase in power to fully use it - and you will at some points otherwise convert back to factory tuning - and it remain reliable and durable you want to run above factory recommendations (where VW and other car manufacturers bother to mention them) for servicing and maintenance. The engine of course is not the most important item on a car, the following are more important - brakes, steering and suspension (all three require good appropriate tyres in good condition), safety electrics (lights, horn, windscreen blower, etc.) and windows and mirrors (reflective number plates) all to see and be seen. Don't let your car battery get too low otherwise it can throw up al sorts of unexpected issues, certainly don't wait for warning messages and lights, be proactive preventative by charging the battery by sufficient driving or the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer. The warning lights were referred to as "idiot lights" sometimes unfairly but sometimes fairly as it could be idiotic to let them appear or continue to drive with some of them on, nowadays though the cars tend to scream blue murder if a light bulb needs changing.

That should open the eyes of those in the UK that moan and whinge about car insurance and the cost of it! That is very restrictive compared to the car insurances we have, I won't tell you the cover and cost of the insurance I had on the Midget otherwise it might make you (and others cray). 😀 In the UK there are lots of factors that affect the cost of the insurance many of them personal so the same car can vary a lot in cost for different people in different circumstances to insure. Many men in the UK misunderstand the insurance cover and whinge about it, some think it's all a total rip-off and some insurance providers and their staff can help with this impression. here to legally drive the car on the road you must have at least the minimum of Third Party cover, then Third Party, Fire & Theft, and on to Fully Comprehensive often it can be just as, or most, economical to have the Fully Comprehensive and add another named driver. The amount of "Voluntary Excess" (in addition to any excesses in the policy) that you are prepared to pay can made a big difference to the the premium (cost), personally we have nil (£0) usually or if that isn't available the minimum (£50 or £100) this may increase the premium but not by a lot for us. Most in the UK use comparison website sites to get quotes and insurance but this would not be the best method perhaps for such a car as a 23 year old Felicia (and modified) or other cars often but we all dislike looking for car, home and other insurances every year so too often go the comparison website routes and the websites and insurers gain from this and the customers whinge, or some think they got a great deal whether they actually did or not. So in conclusion, insurance cost in the UK will vary so much as not to be really comparable to each other let alone to outside the UK plus the cover would also vary, as an example there would be no limit to third party medical injuries. Most people wouldn't consider the full cost of many accidents and the many years a claim could be ongoing particularly with medical injuries.

Sounds more like a knock to me, if you have a good look under the car in that area you might see some evidence, or you might not. If you're lucky it could be something simple. Have a look at below and see if you also get other corresponding symptoms, sway bar link is anti-roll bar drop link. Good luck, let us know how you get on and please report back any final solution so that others (and I) can learn from your info, cheers. The following is lifted from an American site so American names for parts.- https://www.underrinermotors.com/service/service-and-parts-tips/why-does-my-car-make-noise-when-i-turn/ Reasons Your Car Makes a Noise When Turning the Wheel There can be several reasons why your car is making a noise when you’re turning the wheel, so we’re breaking down the most common car noises and their causes below: Suspension Joints: When heard at lower speeds, a creaking, clunking, or popping sound can mean there are worn-out or broken suspension joints. Power Steering Pump: Also heard at low speeds, this sound is often described as a whining sound that seems to be coming from the engine. CV Joints: If you hear a crunching noise when turning at high speeds, the CV Joints are typically the main culprit. Power Steering System: A screeching or whining noise while turning at normal speeds can mean that there’s an issue within the power steering system. Some of these repairs can be simple and consist of topping off the power steering fluid, while others can need in-depth work. This complex system consists of hoses, belts, and more that can all fail over time. Tie Rods: A clunking noise when turning typically means there’s a loose or broken tie rod. Sway Bar Link: With a failing sway bar link, you will not only notice a knocking noise while you are turning but also poor handling. Ball Joints: If the ball joints are your issues, you will hear a creaking sound that gets louder over time. Bushing: This joint is part of your suspension system and can either need lubrication or get replaced as time goes on. A creaking noise is commonly heard when there’s an issue. Struts and Shocks: If you’re hearing a noise paired with a bouncy and loose feel when going over bumps in Mequon, then your problem is with your shocks and struts.

Plus you will pay extra for it if it's not part of the "service". As I put earlier today's "service" is nothing like a service of many years back with many service items being called "maintenance" items by the likes of Skoda UK. Some garages still do a lot more than others in what they call a service and Skoda don't specify items I'd included in longer term services as they're "for-life" items which often means out of longest warranty, there are some items I would add to servicing on a 10 or 12 year old car as preventative and possible improvement issues - but most others would say I'd be wasting my time and placebo effects, each to there own. Never wait for warning lights and messages (particularly for low state of charge on the battery) - remember what those lights used to be (sometimes unfairly) called. All the best.

I'd certainly have a look at your present light and see why it might not be working, perhaps test the supply wires for for electric getting through, check and clean connector plug and socket and protect internal connections if damp or wet is on them. You can then also note the part number on it. I'm not sure about the light you have linked to as the photos look different and there's not the red spray nozzle, have a look at the photo below (purportedly of genuine Skoda part) and the following eBay links for the photos at least as they also show the tag (?) points for getting the unit out - but I don't know if any of this info is correct as I've never taken the unit out. Always double and treble check and cross reference any info you get from any source (including a bloke of the internet) with if possible a couple of other reliable sources for this info. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2015-797/9/943-943000/#1 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2015-797/9/943-943000/#1 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3cn945087-brake-light-skoda-19688.html https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3cn945087-brake-light-china-40010.html (For info - you only need up to the end of the eBay item (itm) number to get the direct short link.) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305041944080 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155680552202 For MoT AFAIK as long as you tell them the additional brake light is disconnected before the MoT then it's not included - but I'd not rely on all testers to believe you without proof and anyway in todays traffic you want to been seen (and see which is why you clean all your windows, mirrors, front and rear lights and reflective number plates). Hope this helps.

Do let us know how you get on (including the slide or prise (or both)) and please report back the final solution so that other owners (and me) can learn from your info, thanks.

H, welcome. See the following thread (from further down this forum page). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520669-water-ingress-through-third-brake-light/

For joiner and hose connector I'd not want to guess. If you are fully confident in OBDEleven being accurate (I've no idea) with stalk switch and all else then back to other diagnostic tools like multimeter and you. Can your OBDEleven test the rear wiper motor by activating it? Could be any of your thoughts for wiper motor not working and boot lights being intermittent plus poor connections, broken or partially broken wires or connectors, or connectors in a poor state of contact, same for earth wires and connections. Personally I'd not fully trust any Haynes manual, Skoda Owner's Manual is down at the moment so you will have to confirm fuse locations and numbers in your paper printed copy of your Owner's Manual for the car for this info (assuming that is correct, other owner might know if that is the case). (ETA: last post arrived whilst I was still typing so a test of good live supply and earth to the wiper motor might confirm that as failed) For not working wiper motor check all possible fuses, both sides of the fuse, for live connection (with ignition on), or check at wiper motor connections for live supply and good earth and then work towards the fuse end checking connections and earths as much as possible. Inspect for damage for damage or water as you go along, wiggle wires and connectors too. Same really for interment boot lights, starting at bulbs and bulb connectors in light units. Usual applies of course for any information from any source, check it and cross reference it with if possible two other reliable sources for that information. Good luck, let us know how you get on, and if possible report back with the solution so that other owners can learn from that information.

Hi, welcome. You might get more replies from asking in the model forum that your model is in. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/353-škoda-owners-forums/ HTH, good luck.

If you don't need new drums you might be able to get the existing ones skimmed with perhaps the shoes relined.

I wonder how accurate these are for showing voltage and how long they might remain reliable, how the figures compare exactly to a multimeter and/or Carista doesn't really matter as long as the phone charger item gives constant results. Obviously you do as you feel best for you personally I would not bother too much with watching the battery voltage figures and just do periodic checks and/or battery charging as required and/or use the battery charger maintainer twice a year and then as required. You have a good new battery now and the knowledge to get a good life's use out of it so you can relax about the battery. All the best.

I get the idea that some Dealerships might only have one scan tool and no fully trained technicians or mechanics to actually use it fully and properly.

I'm with all above (other than date info for Yeti as I have no idea but accept what has been put). I doubt all places bother doing a scan on a "service", especially if the service is just an engine oil (and hopefully) filter change and perhaps a quick visual for other work. When the car battery gets too low it can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before warning lights and messages and if the battery is disconnected it can give some, add in electronic and computer and computer program errors, brain-farts and hiccups (dare I suggest also sometimes in scan tools).

That's a good point as IIRC water goes to bottom and is absorbed and the observation and testing is at only one point but I've seen enough reservoirs with dirty and potentially perhaps contaminated old brake fluid in it but I've never tested any brake fluid for moisture as I prefer preventative maintenance approach, having put that without testing perhaps the fluid needs changing before the preventative maintenance change, or perhaps it could be done later. In my limited experience black fluid is often from rubber seals. @PeterPan99 in your photo isn't the brake fluid level above the yellow plastic cage enough to get the tip of the probe to as I thought that was all that was required or is that just shadow?

Yes they seem to be a right pain, from what I've seen you just use needle nose or long nose pliers and work your way around to lift it a bit and then yank it out. I'd watch out for brake fluid splashes. I always had a moist cloth and bucket of water nearby when do brake fluid changes in case of drips. Obviously you don't want any water to get into the brake fluid reservoir. Your fluid looks very clean, which is good as it's not just the moist of brake fluid you want to check. Some don't worry about brake fluid changes, others do as your independent and you and check for moisture and hopefully the state of the fluid. I'm not so sure how good and reliable the cheap electronic brake testers are some say they're all you need, I take no chances with brakes are they are the most important item on a car, followed steering and suspension (all three include tyres), then safety electrics (lights, horn, blower, etc.) and glass (mirrors, windows) engine is down the list. You can get more expensive tester that may be more reliable or optical (refractometer) testers that don't rely on any electronics, just one example. - https://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/pdf/products/5519_Instructions.pdf 5519_Instructions.pdf HTH.

As my wife's Fabia Mk3 is from 2015 I'd be very interested to know how you get on and resolve this if you could report back when sorted please.

Hi, welcome. What did you do to get this screen, where you updating, going through a menu(s) or did the car/unit do it itself for no apparent reason? Message says "Will reset now" - did it reset?

Just checking, do you mean you disconnect the OBD2 (from the diagnosis port) after you have checked live data and separately to this you plug in to a 12v cigarette / aux socket a little digital device to show voltage, if so great.

Hi, welcome. You would probably be best asking on Superb Mk2 forum for real life experiences of fitting the 18" wheels. It will depending on the model of Superb you have and its brakes sizes. Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk-ii-2008-2015/ An answer you probably not like from me, and I am not alone with this, car manufacturers, for the UK at least, already oversize the wheels and tyres for the sake of fashion sales and as with most fashions some owners want to take thing even further, and more unnecessary. It is your family's car so they and you can do as you chose and ignore this point of view and the following. Tyres affect the braking, steering and suspension, handling, grip, noise and comfort, better smaller tyres can often offer more than larger not as good tyres. Bigger wheels with lower profile tyres can give unacceptable problems with driving on real roads, certainly in the UK, indeed many seek to downsize the wheels and get higher profile tyres than already fitted to improve matters. Good or very good appropriate tyres make a big difference regardless of their relative width and profile size. HTH.

The following reminds me of the Lotus (and Kia) M100 for various reasons, you'll see why. It's a kit-car so no where near expensive as it might look. We used to have a lot of very small and often short-lived kit-car companies, but not now, some good, some not so good and some not good, Dax was good but all depended on who built the car. We had a custom made 4-seater open Cobra replica in the club at one time the builder was so good that one of his other Cobra builds was hand-signed by Carroll Shelby.