nta16

In case the auto-electrician has yet to turn up. Generic codes relating possibly to fuel, clicking possibly the relay. A VW specific scan tool tool may give more info and if higher level more. Don't rely on the scan tool to always give the exact answer rather as a pointer to the area of issue and (another) diagnostic tool. Always check the basics though, are you battery terminals clean and battery terminal clamps clean and secure on the battery terminals, main and minor earth connections and wires clean, protected and secure. Any electric issues (if it is) and diagnostics best to have the car battery fully charged and not low or very low in charge.

Yeap, I can imagine that, on the Bilstein UK page presently the B6 drop down selections have Superb 2015-22 (not 2023) that's why I suggested contacting Bilstein UK, I realise they may not know of other similar VW models or apply the B6 to those models, or they might already be listed to those models, I didn't look as I don't know what those models are. I've been ordering some parts for customers, businesses and myself since the mid-1970s, car parts only for myself in more recent decades, using paper catalogue and previously microfiche, some wit the exact same manufactured part for the manufacture's different brands or same part for a different manufacturer(s) and all at different retail prices. The catalogues and other databases all had errors and omissions and these errors and omissions amplified as databases were taken over and combined and things aren't perfect still just because it's more digital and computers, manufacturers websites are often with errors, omissions and out of date.

Ian, as noted it's not against any law to read and refer to the Owner's Manual as they can give you a lot of information about your car and can sometimes save you a lot of time, effort and expense. Also sometimes the Skoda Dealerships sell items and parts at a reasonable or good price so it's worth asking there, I've no idea about that item though. @NottsIan just for info, might interest you or it might not, the eBay links can be shortened to just the end of the item (itm) number, as examples from above. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355381054670 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305364198984

As this is the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum that's what initially lead me to assume (always dangerous) that B6 might be some sort 'sport' (whatever that might mean) damper - I thought now I'd do a quick check on Bilstein UK website, and this is what it has. - "The BILSTEIN B6 shock absorber is the perfect solution if you require more dampening power and efficiency in your suspension setup, including under heavier loads; but don't require a full all-out sports model. BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are fully road-tested for road handling capability and endurance. The benefits of BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are: Increased power reserves and service life, even when pulling transporters and trailers or during frequent journeys with loads Optimum adhesion and enhanced lane change stability in both day to day and extreme situations Marked improvement in safety and sportiness without additional spring changes such as lowering your vehicle BILSTEIN gas pressure technology BILSTEIN mono-tube/Upside-Down technology, made in Germany Road-tested by BILSTEIN and fine-tuned No German TUV registration required" https://www.bilsteinsuspensionstore.co.uk/info-b6-suspensions @Vlady on that page the "Choose your Car" menu doesn't include Karoq, that could be for a few reasons (including their site not being up to date, errors and omissions) and whether the other models listed would fit and be suitable I've no idea, unless you've seen Bilstein B6 Karoq dampers available elsewhere (or even then) you might need to check with Bilstein. If the B6 aren't available for your Karoq that's an end to that particular path.

Do you know please how that price plus conversion and P&P works out compared to getting it from a Skoda Dealership (as I've found sometimes the Dealership prices can be good or reasonable for genuine part)?

Ian, you might get more, and more specific, replies (or find the subject already covered) in the Karoq forum, you could try a search or a post there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ HTH. Good luck.

@Carlston I totally agree with your post particular the "when fitting aftermarket shock absorbers that are similar to the factory fitted ones" and the "if the ride height hasn't changed". Same as the insurance company I've no idea what dampers are fitted to a Karoq or how similar or not B4 and B6 are to them, if they're equivalent then they can just be replaced as a repair anyway. Vlady's OP was about an upgrade to a PCP car not using OEM and if that would affect anything plus I was suggesting a change of wheel size. Perhaps the word upgrade is the problem, as relating to modification, I did try to cover this. If the B6 are similar/equivalent then there's no need to contact the insurance but I did put to check all information including from me. I've no idea what's in the PCP contract again if the B6 are similar/equivalent you'd imagine the PCP provider would be happy that newer dampers were on their vehicle if they have it back - well, in reality they'd not really know (even perhaps if told) or care at the end and it and would make no real odds to car's value to them. I wasn't against anything you put or disagreeing if the B6 dampers are similar/equivalent just that as Vlady's been reading about how much ride improvement with B6 on Superbs a bit more checking all round for their model and situation wouldn't hurt. I wasn't prepared to put do as you please as the insurance and PCP are unlikely to find out unless it's on a computer record or they have to do an inspection, if someone is concerned they need to do proper checks, anyone can, including you and I, say and advise on what usually or generally happens - again if the B6 are similar/equivalent I can't see an issue against OEM but it's not me or me with a PCP contract. In answer to Vlady's other questions do you know please - will the B6 improve the riding quality as much as it does with the Superb will they be better over small potholes and speed humps will it matter at all about leaving the rear factory dampers?

@A845-ALY did you get this sorted in the end, was it a new sensor required?

@PeterPan99 did you get it sorted, yellow catch-thing out and fluid tested and/or changed?

What did you decide in the end?

@Vlady I told you not to trust some bloke on the internet (me). 😄 If the Bilstein B6 are just an upgrade in performance and durability because they are better built that's just an alternative replacement part but if they are a different design rate(s) of damping compared to factory dampers that may well be another matter, you'd have to check, I've no idea. Ignoring the colour difference in the photos of B4 and B6 examples Carlston has posted for you they look significantly different to me. Just because one or more people have contacted one of more insurance companies I can assure you that doesn't mean your insurance or PCP will give the same answer, you could try to persuade them that other insurance companies accept this (but, and with full respect to Carlston, at the moment you have no real proof of this as its just hearsay) and if they decline you ask whoever you talk to go and check for sure. Or if they accept you should get written conformation, a good insurance or PCP company should be able provide written conformation (yes or no) easily. I apologise, I thought I would have made the following suggestion at the start as I often do but see I didn't. You might get more responses and more direct information by posting your question in the Karoq forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ I'm not sure how much changing dampers might improve going over small potholes and especially speed bumps compared to factory dampers (when new) or a change of wheel size if possible or better dampers would improve the ride overall. Dampers of different rate(s) may be better or not as good overall, or better or not as good, over small potholes and speed bumps. Plus as with many things, like tyre selection, different people have different perceptions, expectations and driving styles. Yes you can, certainly with 'factory' replacement dampers but whether that is the best or a good idea overall if fitting the B6, again I'd suggest asking Karoq owners who had done it. Many/some(?) may have just opted for a downsize on the wheels if that was possible. On my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia we had to change the front dampers as a "distress purchase" (MoT find) after only 6 years and 41k-miles use, and I've seen other Fabia Mk3 owners on here with the same issue, when I know one 20+ year old Toyota and another 25+ year old Toyota that are still on factory fitted from new dampers, suggesting to me that the early Mk3 Fabias at least had poorer quality dampers fitted at the factory. Very little about modern cars seems to be as simple and straightforward as you'd hope but so much is expected by us as customers (or consumers for some) from the vehicles, customer wants and fashions don't always relate to what is sensible or practical but that's another long subject.

Just about everything over here is done over the internet or phone and all is about self declaration on the application forms. Not many use insurance agents or brokers face-to-face and the car is never seen let alone inspected and never has AFAIK. They would be hard pushed to get photos showing today's newspapers as it's generally only the old that still buy printed paper newspapers (and the local paper is weekly not daily). On Agreed Value' for the likes of classic cars it depends on the insurer, my last insurer just wanted 2 recent photos and a declaration form filled in every two years for a value up to £15k above that it was a valuation from say a owners club specialist. Very high valve classics I expect would included more. Very high value new modern cars AFAIK don't involve any more than the cheapest new car certainly not an inspection as all is on the manufacturers' computer system and once registered on state systems. Car parts and other companies use these systems so entering a registration plate (doesn't have to be your car) and you get the car details including the VIN missus three or four characters, certainly the engine number in full. I am sure many here fail to declare modifications and get away with it but if there is a serious accident or insurance claim then the car will be inspected and there might be repercussions from any non-declarations.

Any outcome or resolution?

What was the outcome, was it the relay clicking - or have you just learnt to live with it and no longer notice?

Don't you have other than German or European makes in Greece? I personally can't imagine a VW engine with three-cylinders as I found the Golf Mk2 (horrible lardy car) 1.6, 4 cylinder engine to be on the rough side but I've had several small cc, 3-cylinder Japanese cars with jewels of engines and one Merc (that VW previously couldn't commit to) with for the time an unusually good Merc product. Even so I find it strange that your mate didn't get reasonable mpg out of the 1.2, 3-cylinder engine around town but real world figures beat marketing ,sales and manufacturer's own test figures. In 2003 I had a new Suzuki Swift with a 1.0 3-cylinder engine that wasn't as smooth above 70 mph but would get 60mpg on a run. At the same time I had a 1974 (built just after the fuel 1973 crisis) Rover P6 3.5 V8 (manual) that would be about mid-20s mpg on a run but you don't own a V8 if you are going to worry too much about mpg. ETA: BTW it's illegal to be taking a photo with a phone whilst driving in the UK and "Even using a hands-free option can incur penalties if your driving is deemed to be dangerous" even though many do it, only last week as a pedestrian I saw a young man in a black Golf with dropped seat and a middle-aged man in a new Porsche two-seater, good job I don't own a phone with a camera. - https://www.met.police.uk/advice/advice-and-information/rs/road-safety/driving-mobile-device-use

As I often told my wife as the car stopped because I had let the fuel run out, a gauge is just a gauge not "an accurate", ladies being more sensible she then later insisted the needle was always at least at a certain position or we filled the tank regardless, no debate. Men (and I dare include myself in that category) often love figures more than real world logic. My wife's present VWSkoda can have the fuel gauge needle sit at full for very many miles, neither of us believe the VW-cheaters gauges (dieselgate :cough:), and her previous GM product car could sometimes take over 100 miles (160km) to move the needle off full, neither of us believe we were doing hundreds of miles per gallon. If we had a TC-6, TC-6P (or TC-6 anything) we might take it as a very good guide but we'd still use pencil and paper, litres and mileage since last fill and simple maths to work out an average mpg over that consumption to give us an idea of mpg which would have little meaning because of all the variances, but too much consumption might point to an issue of running - too little consumption probably an error in the simple maths. I could take a photo of perhaps the matrix showing 70 mpg or 25, 15(?) mpg means nothing either way really, like the fuel range left in the tank figure, figures with little real meaning. My wife will always get s more mpg than me (unless I'm on a fuel economy test) . Best way to save fuel is to walk, cycle or get a lift with someone else. We all sit in our 5 seater cars as lone drivers looking at others exactly the same going along or in the same queue. Yes save what you can where you can but just owning one car let alone driving it is very wasteful regardless of mpg figures. I have the lack of wealth from mpg to say all this. 😄

Thank you - but - remember what I put, don't just trust one thing on the internet and some bloke like me on the internet (especially me as I make loads of mistakes, misremember and forget lots, that's if I ever had it right in the first place). Check with the PCP and/or insurance company, allowing for who answers the phone isn't necessarily an expert in the subject. I'm not saying I'm wrong but very often I have been, many times, luckily I can't remember the very many and no longer care about most other times, a car is nothing, never worry too much about it, but people are irreplaceable, even me (sighs of relief over the land). 😀

Do bear in mind what I put about any information from any source. If you need to replace a part it is probably expected that whilst the vehicle is owned by the PCP company that you fit factory parts or perhaps OE/OEM equivalent and not upgraded parts - best to check with PCP owner. Owners that make modifications to their vehicles do need to notify their insurance so obviously best to check beforehand in case it's a no or increase in premium, depends on your insurance policy/insurer. Same could be so for changing wheel size with both but if the wheels are also specified for the model I would guess they are unlikely to decline, cheap insurance and you might have to pay an admin fee or use your charm and good looks to talk them out of any fee. Check your PCP contract and see who owns the car and when, and think what you would allow and trust someone, who is using your car that you own, to do. Also not all upgrades are improvements, but I have no idea about Bilstein B6, I have no qualms about mods to a car, I put Bilstein dampers and (lowered) Eibach springs ("BMW set up") and a sports exhaust and K&N element engine filter on when I took over my Fiat Cinquecento Sporting from my wife when she bought another car. But we both owned the car outright so could do as we pleased (once the car was out of warranty, it was a Fiat!).

Rooted - cable- ties/wraps, main part of a TVR tool kit. 😄

You won't know for sure what the plugs are until you take (all three of) them out so wait for your mate with the correct tools. If your engine air filter box is like my wife's that's enough of a PITA as it is, hidden screws underneath plus the spring clips that really need the correct pliers but can be moved with adjustable slide pliers (and a bit of swearing in my case). Have a big cloth to lay the air box on if you don't want to scratch the face side. Well done on you. Such a new car at your age too. Bit different to the car I had and 19. 😄 Sorry I have no idea, ask the tuner or your mate for a good example. For some cars I used to take two whole days to clean a car when I first got it and another two whole days when I was putting it up for sale, seats out (not so easy now with airbags), wheels off, roof to underside but those days are long gone cost me too much time, hassle and materials. On the outside I now just use any good make on low price offer of waterless (though it's not truly as you have to wash the microfibre cloths, no fabric softener though) wash and wax (with carnauba) and a very few other cleaners/polish) On my wife's Fabia I unusually just clean the lights (except headlight, Plexus), door mirrors and number plates and perhaps the rear widow and wiper - see and be seen. ba Keep an electronic record backed up by hardcopies (printed paper) as computers are unreliable, buy a folder or ring binder and plastic envelopes for say A4 paper printouts, record work done and approximate date and mileage no need to be anal just the relevant stuff or even just a running record that deletes previous work that has been done and only keep the most recent of that work and/or parts. If you sell the car all this looks impressive plus you can easily check how long things last and when replacements might be needed or plan for such.

That sounds better but you won't need 98 let alone 102 for factory settings, though a couple of tankfulls of petrol with higher additive packages now and again might not hurt, if reasonably possible. If the plugs are correct for factory tune then you can leave them for their 4(?) year service - but if you fit service and maintenance parts now yourself now you know what parts have been fitted when and how for sure so you can have the confidence of that and plan their replacement. A part can look OK and function but still be beyond its optimum and reasonable service and performance life.

They can wait until you've had the car a year or two. They claim to offer genuine Skoda parts and I have no reason to doubt it but I would not be tempted by the Chinese parts. I hope he checked at the time and has just forgot. I'm with Rooted the tuner shouldn't tune the car unless he knows all about it and its condition and what parts are best with the car and state of tune - but perhaps he did and has just forgot or standard plugs were fine. Or downside, was too lazy to look it up for you as you would hope he would record such things on a remap. Genuine NGK or Denso appropriate model of each should be good AFAIK. For the coils I am not sure that you need a coil puller tool but the correct tool is usually handy for a job, I got out of doing it so don't know how awkward they are to remove by hand, obviously care must be taken. You are supposed to use a special VAG grease on at least number 4 I think on putting them back in but I do not know if that is necessary or any other type of grease but I would use anything that make the work easier for next time. You also need the correct thin walled deep plug spanner, it having a magnet would help with getting the plug out of the deep dark recess too. Check for correct torque for replacement. I forgot pollen cabin filter I would get the longest lasting type of filter and/or best at filtering if I required cleaner fresh air but I'm used to open top cars where you get all the fumes (and bits of rubber off modern oversized tyres) anyway. As above, brakes, tyres, battery. If your mate has a VW/Skoda appropriate scan tool you could get him to plug it in and do a report, the more VW appropriate and higher level the scan tool the more you will see, after taking the report get him to delete any error codes, drive the car and see if any come back. This would probably be even more interesting if done before removing the mapping but don't wait on removing the mapping and reverting back to factory settings.

I've just had a quick look at a wheel size site and if thier info is correct and you have 17" wheels dropping to 16" wheels, if you could, only give 0.4" (9mm) extra sidewall so probably not worthwhile but other Karoq owners may know. Changing from (silly) 19" wheels to 18" or 18" to 17", if possible, both would be more of a difference (all subject to wheel and tyre size comparison websites info being correct. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/karoq/2019/ https://tiresize.com/comparison/

I would check with the car owner, the PCP company, before doing such work. Here's just one article, first found on a quick search so you will be able to find others and decide for yourself which if any of them might be right - always cross reference, with if possible a couple of other reliable sources any information you get from any source including manufacturers. -https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/can-i-modify-my-car-on-a-pcp/ Easiest thing to do is read the contract and/or contact the company and get the answer in writing. All modern cars have oversized wheel and tyres for fashion, as the car manufacturers and most buyers want, usually unless you already have them fitted a smaller wheel size is available and this is combined with a tyre of higher profile (higher side wall) this subject to tyre type usually gives more air and 'rubber' cushioning to the likes of potholes, obviously can't do miracles. The PCP company may feel more included towards a change of wheel and tyre than a change to dampers as they may see the dampers as a modification but you would have to ask them as I'm only guessing and they might say the smaller wheels would devalue the car as they're not fashionable or "standard" - but you can explain that you will keep the original wheels and tyres and refit them to the car if you surrender (or whatever the correct term is) the car to them. Explain why you want to make either change. The smaller wheels do need to fit over your brakes and your model spec of course. If you have a look (and/or post) in the Karoq (or Tyres and Wheels) forum(s) you will see many owners chose to downsize their wheels for more comfort. Grip and handling is a lot about the design and make up of the tyre rather than just its size so a good smaller tyre can outperform a larger not so good tyre. HTH, cheers.

Might depend on how much the car has fell as well as dropped (mileage, use) but sorry I've no idea but you would probably get more and better replies if you posted in the Octavia Mk2 forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ HTH. Good luck.