nta16

Always take cheap or low priced electronic plug-ins or computer programs as a guide rather than always being spot-on with figures. Any electronic or computer figures are best checked with another reasonably reliable device to confirm reasonableness. Any variations between the two as long as they remain consistent can be accepted. A third device may give a third set of figures, doesn't really matter for most things as long as all are within reasonable tolerance and parameters, multimeters come to mind. Unless you are recording live data for checking or diagnosis don't leave anything plugged into the diagnosis port(?)/socket when not really required, the car's computer systems are expensive you don't want anything upsetting them or causing any harm.

One thing I meant to put, an MoT pass just means the car meet the minimum of statutory requirements to one (hopefully trained and qualified) person's opinion at that one put in time only, it doesn't mean the car generally was and is as good as it could or should be. Note as there is no mileage difference between Fail and Pass and both were done on the day I assume (always dangerous) that the same garage where it failed also done the work to get it a pass. Looking at mileage recorded - 9-9-20 to 12-11-21 is 14k-miles in 14 months 12-11-21 to 28-10-23 is 17k-miles in 23 months yet the tax ran out 22-3-22, so was 17k-miles done in 4 months or have I missed something?

Quite possible. I tried to arrange a group visit to a memory improvement class but my group including me we all forgot about it. Fabia Mk3 not available at the moment on that site., perhaps later, my virus guard doesn't like me trying to download there but I can usually view when needed, well so far, until now.

Hi, welcome. It's show as fuse 41 for my wife's 2015 Mk3, perhaps you could try a search on the 'Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)' forum (and/or ask there). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/

You may well be right, I've a vague notion of a memory of some high level brake light needing to be slid to the side but I'm not sure it was the Mk3 Fabia but as I put I've never had to do it so can't be sure and forgot my wife has a hatch and @Hassan_skoda's is an estate. My sincere apologises to @Hassan_skoda if I'm wrong - in my wife's 2015 hatch behind the high level brake light is painted full width metal of the top of the hatch door with no access panel.

There's next to none service history recorded there to interpret really. Info available from above - Octavia Estate SE-L(?) 1.5 TSI, 150ps, DSG (red colour) DPCA engine - Rooted and others might be able to say if any issues on those engines registered October 2019 tax ran out 22 March 2022 MoT until 27 October 2024 9-9-20 - 18, 641 miles 12-11-21 - 32,149 - "inspection with" engine oil change - (and(?) oil filter hopefully)? 30-11=21 - change of owner 28-10-23 - 49,642 miles - MoT MoT 28 October 2023 - PASS - 49,642 miles MoT 28 October 2023 - FAIL - 49.642 miles Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects): Offside Front Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick - Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Front Service brake excessively binding Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): - Nearside Front Brake disc worn, but not excessively Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): - Offside Front Brake disc worn, but not excessively Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): - Nearside Front Brake pad(s) wearing thin What is not recorded, but might have been done - brake fluid change(s) spark plugs DSG oil change if required - Rooted and others would know more about that I think you can ignore the cambelt change but again Rooted and others would know more about that pollen filter air-con "service" is a debateable item engine air filter is at 6years/60k-miles you'd hope the front brake pads (and perhaps discs) had been changed at last MoT

Oil & Inspection "Service" only includes engine oil filter. The rest depends on what service you sign up for, pollen filter, engine air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs - are done to schedule, no mention of "maintenance" in the online service plans that I saw or more important brake fluid change at 3(?) years. But then the Dealerships seem to do their own versions of Skoda UK "servicing" and "maintenance" and IIRC used to offer their own servicing plans too all very confusing. Might be worth asking at your local Skoda UK Dealership or perhaps a good independent (VW) garage if you have one or know of any, or one. Skoda Fixed Price Serving - on all Skoda models over 3 years - note, towards the bottom of the page, "* Price will be based on vehicle model, age, parts and labour costs. Labour rate is £95 per hour." - https://www.marshall.co.uk/skoda/service/fixed-priced-servicing/

No bolts, thin plastic flat stick maybe. You can get sets of plastic prying tools cheap, useful for other jobs including remove interior plastics, I have a few old plastic kitchen spatulas I mostly use but as I have never removed the third brake light I don't know where the tabs on the light would be and can't be sure how effective the spatulas would be. If you're very careful perhaps a small flat bladed screwdriver with using a cloth, card or paper to protect paintwork - but metal scratches more than plastic usually if you slip. Also the GT85 would possibly cause plastic to slip more against the paint surface perhaps protecting the paint more than without it - but this doesn't allow for Sod's Law. So, caution, taking plenty of time and patience all need to be in plenty stock - or good preparation might means it pops out very easily, it's never certain until its done. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

When I took apart a replacement seat belt reel assemble for a "vintage /.classic" car I was surprised to find the part that holds the retractable bit of the belt firm in an accident was quite a flimsy looking plastic assembly with just a single metal ball bearing IIRC.

That's a later Elise and a bit wasted on those (that I quickly looked at) wide American roads, the bends aren't sharp enough, the Americans really miss out not having the small UK country roads for more driver input and fun. The Elise hoods have always been a joke, better to leave them off and mop out at the end. Late 1990s on a club event on the roads I let one of our members have a go in my car so he returned the favour in his not so old at the time original (mk1) Elise, the brake pedal feel was more like a track car, I was used to much softer feel, applying earlier and lighter so the owner had to encourage me to leave the braking to later and press harder. Fabulous car to drive on UK country roads, the chassis gave the feel at each corner, gearshift was nothing to write home about but OK but pedals and driving position were good for me too. UK sports cars were not about high speeds, proper fun roads remain so at 60mph (70mph way back) or a lot less, they're about the handling, turning the steering, wheel, using the gears, brakes when needed, too long or many long straights are boring.

A mate has one of those, he used to have two, but not with the oversized wheels and tyres, supposed to be one of the best handling front wheel drive cars. Not my cup of tea as it's a 90s car and certainly looks like it by the dash, plus you apparently you can get a golf bag in the boot which puts me off any two-seater but it certainly seems to go well. A bit wide for real fun on narrow country roads. On the plus side it has an Isuzu engine and upset snobby "real" Lotus owners for very many years particularly as Kia also made it later, if I had one I'd replace the Lotus badge with the badge used on the Kias just for the sheer joy of it. 😁

If you carefully prise it out, be careful plastic breaks easily, you will be able to see if water gets in that way and consider sealing options. After cleaning the area first to remove any crud, muck, grit, that might hold parts in I like to spray plastic parts with a good lubricant like GT85 (with PTFE) to help to ease them out and back in again.

Volkswagen / Audi / Seat Accelerator Pedal With Electronic Module 1K2721503AR (manual gearbox). On a very quick first find of search, £185 appears a reasonable price for the part from dealership. Not much to fitting I'd guess but no doubt(?) some sort of new part 'coding' to pay for. - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/seat-1k2721503ar-accelerator-pedal-with-electronic-module/mpn/1k2721503ar Good luck.

Thanks for the reply. Much servicing, maintenance and repairs often boil down to clean and lubricate (even electronic clean of deleting errors codes and switching off 'n' on agen) so it's always worth a look and some mechanical and electrical repairs can be easy once you can get at the items or remove them. Just to finish the thread, if you don't mind saying, how much were the part(s) and labour/installation?

H., welcome, for cleaning and lubrication, subject to usual caution for electrics if involved, if electrics you could use a combined switch cleaner and lubricant like Servisol Super 10, if not electric you could use other cleaner (electrical contact cleaner would also do) and then a longer lasting lubricant like GT85 (better than WD-40 Multi-Use) it will also help with releasing plastic clips. For parts and more info specific to your model you'd be better posting in the 'Skoda Yeti' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/151-skoda-yeti/ HTH.

If you're not taking the car back to whoever fitted the wiper stalk then I'd suggest you get someone with a VW appropriate scan tool to plug in and then perhaps do some diagnosis and/or do a report then delete any error codes and see which come back. Someone on the following list may be able to help you with this. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Genuinely thanks for sharing BUT others on here have been perusing this as this was the case abroad but not in UK until last summer, IIRC (which I don't always) 23 July 2023 VW finally admitted it and those other members have like you kindly been spreading the word. Too late for myself and others that had previously been conned by VW (£1k on my mates VW van last year and £460 for our Fabia in 2021).😠

ETA: when the wipers went wrong on my wife's 2015 car I can't remember seeing any error message but it was also a different fault to the one you have posted, the wipers would come on by themselves and others reported theirs wouldn't switch off. That issue was solved by following a YT vid and bit of DIY repair, which as much servicing, maintenance and repairs boiled down to clean and lubricate. Your issue sounds different but I mention the other in case you see it on searches.

If the replacement wiper stalk and fitting is within warranty then go back to where it was fitted as the replacement part might be faulty or the problem wrongly diagnosed and it wasn't the previous wiper stalk at fault or not the only fault.

Don't worry I've done the same but you're in the tyres & wheels forum, you might want the relevant Yeti or VCDS form for more replies and info. Good luck.

Sounds like the Octavia has two.

Depends on the old cars I would guess but for me I would have to had my head near the relays as general car noises or level of insulation would cover such a quiet noise, but I never had VW brands. You could lift the wipers off the screen (follow instructions in Owner's manual to do this) then put the ignition on without the engine running and try to locate the area the noise originates from and if that is where the relay is located you have conformation. If you want to, that is what VW want you to do. AFAIK car batteries remain one of the most oversold car parts in the UK. Batteries are expensive here and they are to be 'coded' in, more expense possibly. Best to do it on the battery terminals 2 hours, 5 hours or next day (longer the better) from since you last ran the car. Make sure all electrics (that can be) are turned off and allow for a drop of about 0.2v or 0.3v for any stuff the computers don't let you turn off. An acceptable reading depends on the type of battery fitted (EFB/AGM) and a few other minor factors. The something else - something from the very olden days that will be making even bigger return as cars from 2019 and later age - battery chargers. Now you would have an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and (as it always has been) best to do preventative charges when required rather than waiting for the battery to get too low. There are loads of posts on this, many from me, on here and the site generally about this but if you want I can copy and paste some info here for you. If you can take a landscape photo of your battery top that can help with battery type and its figures but it is not needed for general advice. BTW for future posts or threads if you want to you can add your engine, gearbox, trim level and location, as for example only. -

Good to see youngsters who either know, or might learn on the adventure, how to make-do and mend rather than relying on expecting to pressing a button, contact someone else to come out to them or a computer program, to sort everything out for them.

Relay was first thing to come to mind but AFAIK I've never heard/noticed any relay in my wife's 2015 Fabia, perhaps the 2019 car has a louder relay and less insulation to the sound on the car.. Unless you are hearing the relay with the engine and perhaps nothing else running at the time and your mind has locked on to this sound so you always hear it. If you don't think it is the relay then perhaps posting a recording of the audio of the clicking.

HI, welcome. Are the heated seats factory fitted? Do you get the clicking when the heated seats are switched but no clicking when heated seats are switched off? Side note, do bear in mind when on the heated seats will put additional load on the alternator and battery so do keep an eye on your battery state of charge so that you don't get unexpected warning lights or messages, don't wait for the stop/start not available all the time because the battery is too low. Internment on my 1973 car that I had up until a couple of years ago was pushing the dashboard rocker switch on and off. 😄