nta16

Hi, welcome. might be wires or connector perhaps, I don't think you can tell until you look or test sensor connector. You would get more advice on the model specific forum if you post there. - Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk-ii-2008-2015/ Good luck.

Good point. But then how accurate is the measuring instrument, probably good enough. I've no idea what the TC-6 (is) and where it picks it's information up from, and where ever that is it's accuracy, but as you put probably good at closed loop, good to think of things being perfect on a 23 year old car - but I'm nit-picking, assuming the TC-6 is consistent then that is the measure taken as no other is available to cross-reference and check against. Need I post My Cousin Vinny video clip again, I'm very happy to, just to see the mechanic again (we' are about the same age, no "chick" issue at any time). 😁 👍 so

I will get the flags out! 😄 (they would be difficult as I don't have any flags.) I'm not sure how much I would trust such equipment in those circumstances as we are not talking F1 electronics and parameters, perhaps they are spot on, or near enough, I have no idea but I would be thinking salt basin unless proven otherwise to my satisfaction (by electronic, computer, computer programing, statistical and mechanical engineers obviously 😁 ). Further towards the middle of the range may be more accurate but I've no idea, perhaps it's elsewhere or across the whole range. If you use it as a consistent guide and it's accuracy is consistent then that's god enough as a guide, after all we don't have scientific or laboratory conditions to rely on, and then can you trust the results given.

Fairy snuff, sorry to have brought you in. And you're surprised, Hotmail, good thing they bother with such stuff, pity it's against honest users but they, and others, have to be so careful the internet can be marvellous for all including those it shouldn't be. I've no real idea but I very much doubt it as I think, but can't remember, they have a commercial set up too, didn't seem snake oil to me but I could be well wrong as the some of the English motor trade has ripped me off and fooled me over the decades since the 1970s. I hope I've got smarter since but I might be fooling myself and forgetting a lot. To me in English it looks like a flag on a pole but that's just my interpretation and you and others may see differently and that is fine I didn't intended to get into any argument about such. The three dots in an arrow is media. Lots of stuff has been pushed out before and gets nowhere for many reasons but if you think it's a goer then go for it and as long as you can be honest with the results (some people are unable to admit to mistakes, including me easily sometimes) let us know the results of how you find it in the short term, medium term and long term.

@Rooted will probably know about stuff like this. This gets good reports but AFAIK isn't available in UK so I doubt for France also. - https://www.atschemicals.com/ I didn't know what this meant so I used Google Translate but then I saw the flag looking icon, top right of page, and it gives a drop-menu of French or English.

Forgot to put - when you 'code' the new battery also delete any error codes as that may speed things up a little.

A "thinner" and/or better quality oil used for short journeys in the cold will give less resistance for the engine. I'd imagine a better quality 15w-50 would have given better fuel figures in these circumstances than the 15w-50 you used, but possibly not as good as the 10w-40. The likes of VW try to shave the fuel consumption figures as very much as they can with various ways but it doesn't mean there are not some detrimental consequences from this pursuit of having the very ancient ICE and using too much modern technology on it perhaps including thin oils - but I am NOT saying the 10w-40 oil is too thin for your engine. But here you only want to compare the fuel consumption between the recent cold morning and cold night starts (with the same oil in the engine at both times). What ambient temperature range is the TC-6 guaranteed to be accurate at? What is the state of charge and state of health of your car battery at the moment?

Your car, your money, you do what is best foe you or as you please. A new battery 'coded' in correctly will eliminate any battery concern. You probably already know it can work out more expensive to go cheap on a replacement battery. Only if you're putting in equivalent to what has been taken out. Some systems can be calling on the battery even when it's parked up . Again have a look at your Owner's Manual for bigger electric consumers, like the see me home or whatever it's called, then there's the heaters, motors, air-con, etc. when you are using the car, driving or parked up. Having a fully charged (or new) battery will help with diagnosis whereas a battery in a low state of charge could hinder diagnosis and create issues and problems. See this sequence of posts from a recent thread with perhaps a similar battery incident. - "Timely post, yesterday I had a low battery warning on my 2021 fabia (pre owned from dealer) with no previous issues. I usually commute 40 miles 5 days a week, i suspect being off this week with no use and the cold and age of battery are to blame for todays non starting. Multimeter states only 11.8v 😞 Popped on charge so will see what happens, hopefully not a new battery!" "Damn, I charged it and it's started no problem but now theres an engine management light on, after further reading (and being old school) thought I could charge like any other car but appears I should have used the post on the chassis for negative 😞" I brought the car to skoda on other side of town about 5 miles and they did a battery health check saying the battery is fine." "Bit more googling and have reset the light by turning ignition on and off several times, didn't honestly think that was gonna work! Now to investigate whats the best way of maintaining the battery as mentioned by @nta16 above 👍" From this thread. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520254-battery-replacement-confusing/#comment-5819694

I think I would leave the lights off when I start the car and if they asked about anything just tell "it's an old car, I've got to wait a five minutes for something to work before I can go". Perhaps ask them to stick around after they've found a space in case your car needs a push, they should get rid of them (unless they own an old car to). 😄 For difference in fuel could that be the difference in temperature of the engine and ambient between morning outside as it is and the car having been parked overnight and night starting inside, parked inside so initially warmer engine and surroundings. Yes but you can scan and perhaps do a report either side of the cranking and perhaps see any anomalies. Just think how bigger spreadsheet you could have from those reports. 😉 IIRC there were over 600 data points for the Fabia engine, yours might be a few less.

Up to you, you may prefer to replace the battery for sheer convenience, plus you have the scan tool to 'code' the replacement battery. But batteries remain one of the most oversold car parts and your present battery may have useful productive life still in it for a reasonable while if you've not flogged it too severly for too long and/or too often. Rather than replace the battery why not fully recharge it on an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and not let the battery get so low in the future before charging it with the car or better still when appropriate put the battery charger maintainer on for preventative charging. Follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and the charger maintainer for charging. I've found it's best to do slow recharges to full, particularly on slow discharges, this does take more time and patience but for those without one or both they could be done over consecutive charges. Owner's Manual has 0.1 to battery Ah, so 79 Ah would be 7.9 amp charger, but I would go for a 4-amp, or preferably lower charging. The lower charging will take a longer time than most people expect but I find the results are better. I think it's always best to get to fully recharged then you know you've got the most you can and can discover how long that holds and lasts to help gauge if you really need a new battery. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Thinking of the differences between the two starts have you checked and perhaps cleaned MAP, intake air temperature sensors, checked and cleaned their connectors, wires, so on since this difference started?. Side question, what resolved the 3:42(?) wait? Do you have a scan tool that can check readings before and after start?

So you have only notice this difference in outside morning and inside night cold starts since you have used Eneos 10w-40 (which might just be coincidence)? You find the morning, outside, cold start is the one you don't like? Do you find the 1 minute wait before you go improves your City fuel consumption from the outside morning cold start, or the inside night cold start, or both?

Right level of scan tool and might be able to turn the wipers on to test them. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Isn't this looping back to the start of the thread and all the possible answers included in the thread. Is it the morning or night where the air was colder? Is the car parked at the same location morning and night? Are you starting the car with your feet away from the pedals? I can imagine why you have the lights on at night but why have you got the lights on with the morning start when there appears to be enough light to see and record the dash gauges anyway? Are the videos taken on the same day, as you appear to have a fuller tank at night or is it that the fuel tank gauge needle has finished rising? I'm mainly curious and expect the questions and answers have been given in the thread before but I've forgot. Either start seems good enough to me and I would be driving off to get things moving as they should.

I've no idea about relays and any BCM thread and I've no real idea Carista following but are you sure the Carista is reliable on reporting on this type of thing, could you confirm, or not, with using another VW specific scan tool. If there's someone on the following list near you they may be able to plug in there scanner do a report and confirm or not your findings. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Good luck.

Do bear in mind this relates to later cars with many more sensors, modules and complex computer programs that interfere more with the running and driving of the car (not as much as later and latest cars though). I know I will shatter the illusions for some that the VW engineers, computer engineers and mechanics always get everything right and have their customers best interests at heart at all times but in my experience with my wife's car the figures given are not fully accurate, now it may be that my wife's car is an exception and there may be other factors influencing the figures to her car. The 6 hours is wrong in my experience with my wife's car, I have never paid attention to coolant temperature when this happens as I have no idea how accurate it is, its a 90 biased gauge anyway.

I took your word for that number but later thought that seemed a lot given the list and on checking it's just over 1,000 Felicias in 2023, that certainly proves you had a garage, you have inflated the final figure. 😄 I'm only joking. 20% is the tax you have to allow for and pass on. 😄

Uhmm, lead on public, smacks of possibly charger getting nicked or where's there's blame there's a claim. 🙂 For using the charger maintainer as a preventive measure I think you want to follow the Owner's Manual guide of 0.1, so a 69Ah battery would be 6.9 amps charger and as they're more likely to be available as 8 or 6 than / amps I would go for 6 as a maximum but prefer a 4 amp which will be slower than a 6, so being practical ithe 6 might be better for you as being practical again you can't leave a lead out over night. You might have to do several part rechargers in a row to get the charger to show full and go into maintenance mode. You could perhaps disconnect the battery and take it inside for a partial charge to speed up the process a bit as it should be warmer inside and and not going against any of the cars systems still running, then next time charge the battery on the car so the car's computer system knows the battery is being charged for the remaining charge(s). Obviously read the Owner's Manual to see what might need resetting after reconnection and how to lock the car and get back into it without battery power. Whilst the battery is below full recharge you could be more thrifty with the power consumption of the battery to take less out of it, things like cancelling stop/start, using the air-con as little as possible, scraping the rear window, door mirror and windscreen fully of ice and snow so you use the heaters less, don't have anything electrical (other than safety items) running without the engine running, preferably driving. Think of the battery like a bank account, the less you keep taking out and the more you keep putting in the quicker it will fil. If you continue with this thinking after the battery has been fully recharged it will run down more slowly and charge quicker, by the car and/or if required the charger maintainer. There are plenty of charger maintainers about, I use a Ring Smart Charger & Maintainer RSC804 (4 amp, you may want the RSC806) the display's not brilliant but it has cold weather setting for when below IIRC (+)5c. The 4 amp version I've been using is fine but I can and have a couple of times left it plugged in outside on cold mode overnight charging on our hard (luck) standing. https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC806 https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/RSC804_RSC806_RSC808_Instructions.pdf HTH,

😄 Well, you know what they say, when all else fails, read the $"£$%^&t manual. 😄 Or start the car and turn the steering wheel full lock each way whilst having the lights and air-con blower on, or just go for a drive. I've put loads of posts up on best way for charging but it boils down to what I put in my posts here, or just ask here and I'll post a reply later, cheers.

Yes all things considered that is a respectable number but also bear in at the end of September 2023, there were 41.3 million licensed vehicles in the UK, 3.58 million were cars. Figures were not given on the How Many Left site but some of those Felicia may well have been on SORN so not (legally at least) used on the road for possibly a long time and not had a MoT possibly for a long time as it is free to apply for SORN and it remains in place until the car is taxed again or other declaration. - SORN - https://www.axa.co.uk/car-insurance/tips-and-guides/sorn-everything-you-need-to-know/ I sold a car a good running and presentation car in 2005 and the chap said he was going to keep it and fully restore it before giving it to his son when he was 21, the lad looked about 5 at the time, over 18 years later it is still on SORN and AFAIK has been since the road tax I put on it ran out. Plenty of home gardens or 'drives' and domestic garages with old cars in them just rusting away over here, some with small fleets of them a few with loads. I would put a photo up of a local one with Mercs from various decades but you can hardly see them for the undergrowth and trees that have grown around and perhaps through them.

You've not done the battery any favours getting it that low but if you use the appropriate charger/maintainer, preferably as low amperage as you can get for as long as possible (especially to match the discharge on this occasion) and get the battery fully charged you might not need a new battery and get more useful life out of the battery for a reasonable time to come. ETA: Car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts, don't believe the VW Skoda battery sales promotion about having to change the battery at 4 or 5 year. Do read/check the car's Owner's Manual and charger maintainer instructions, it is not against any law to do so despite what many may think or say. Never wait for any of the car's warning lights or messages, prevention really is better than cure, same for battery you can use an appropriate charger/maintainer for preventative charging of the battery and this will also prolong the battery life. Many don't realise that hot and very hot weather can be draining for the battery which might weaken it for fun and games in autumn or winter. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year

I did. That is how it would be perceived over here because it's too old now and was too lower sales volume when new to be a regular site on UK road even when new, so now very rare. I actually saw a dark blue 'T' plate one being driven on the road just before Xmas, sightings are very rare. When new the average age of the purchaser was higher than with mainstream brands and when I had mine when I was in my 20s all the other owners I saw were a generation or two before me. Lat year I did see a bright green and white one, or it might have been Favorit, difficult to tell as it was a bit too far away on the big roundabout with traffic lights and the driver wasn't hanging about, and I have seen a red Favorit Estate parked up somewhere a couple of times, other than that I might have seen only one more Felica that I've noticed being driven on the road in the last few years. The following site tells you how many are registered in the UK (2013-2023) it will have errors and doesn't mean the car is used on the road, the model variants may be mixed up and I am not sure how the data was input in earlier years so some model variates might not even exist - https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/?page=1&q=skoda+felicia

5 years! Wow you are let off lightly in Greece. 😄 Here they want 1, 2 or three years. Car manufacturers don't make much money on the cars, they make money on the car parts though. The Dealership don't make much money on the cars but do on all the extras they selling including the finance deals, and yet another finance scandal is being exposed and investigated. - https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-67945385

You could get that, note the "PLEASE NOTE: Images are for illustration purpose only and actual products may vary from those illustrated - Universal lifting jack and wheel brace" 100 x 5 is correct AFAIK with stupid bolts instead of studs so to save your back you are also best to add to your tool kit a couple of these 'Wheel Fitting Removal Alignment Tool For VW Audi M14x1.5 Bolt Studs'. - I might well be wrong but I have a feeling the Skoda spare wheel and kit are with 180/55r15(?) but If you wait @Carlstonwill be along with full Skoda details. If you had 15" or 14" wheels and not on such rubber band size 215/45 tyres you might have less need for a spare wheel but then I'm used to 70 being low profile tyres. 🙂

You can have a pensioners' car like a Felicia and drive it like a pensioner or you can do as D.FYLAKTOS and have some fun with it, or anything between the two opposites. There can be a lot of variables as to whether it's a good economic thing to keep and run the car in either condition, especially given the very low mileage the cars do. A Porsche or Audi are good cars to drive but only at well in excess of legal speeds otherwise they are very boring whereas a humble car can be great fun at speeds below the legal limits. Many people own many cars that are totally unjustifiable on economic and other grounds, I forget the figures but in the UK the majority of car journey are (very) short and very often with just the driver in a 4/5 seater car.