nta16

Thanks for your initial report back here, and your answer post to me. Well that looks current and unusually for Amazon a very good price, I wonder why Castrol are selling the newer stock off cheaper, to your benefit though. So, do you still have the 2011 Octavia, if so you might want to add the Fabia details too as putting yours is a 2020, Fabia Mk3, 1.0 TSI 95 (and spec level) might speed up future answers for you. https://www.amazon.co.uk/stores/Castrol/page/96F8C9B4-D7AF-404D-BF7B-838FEE0BAD08?ref_=ast_bln Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV - https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge.html#tab_0w-20-ll-iv WEPP-CPVU6J.pdf Cheers.

Which Castrol Edge 0W-20?

Why the argument continues is another matter but it began because a couple of posters, one with good intentions the other I'm not so sure about, don't want other viewers or posters to follow this example of suspension set up.

I am not a big fan of Haynes manuals and have no idea what is included in the Felicia 1996-2000 (UK) version but all data bases have error and omissions including in my limited experience factory workshop manuals. I also have no idea what, if any, other languages this is/was published in paper or digital. - https://haynes.com/en-gb/skoda/felicia/1995-2000-13-petrol-304858

A couple of quick ideas, - You could test the horn(s) by disconnecting from car wiring and making live and earth connections directly from 12v battery to horn(s) and if done a few times on and off this may "clear the throat" of the horn(s) if the car and/or horn(s) are not used a lot or for a long time. Be aware that there can be a fair bit of power and sparks perhaps and of course sudden loud noise possibly. All done at your own responsibility of course. If you can get someone to press the horn(s) button whilst you take a voltage reading at the horn(s) this might tell you if full electric power is getting through to the horn or end of the horn wire connections.

You would probably better looking at or posting on the 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/ If the car and horn(s) have not been used a lot and/or for a long time checking all the electrical connections are clean, secure and protected may be a first step. Starts at the horn(s) connects make be the easiest route but it depends on where they are located and how they are fixed to the car.

I share your frustrations with the way the way VW go about these things and info in Owner's Manual which gets less and less as the years go on. You can use Castrol if you want my wife's 2015 Owner's' Manuals (and other stuff) folder thing has a Castrol Edge badge stitched and glued on it so I guess VW/Skoda/UK has some commercial contract with Castrol so that's what the official Dealerships use but you can use other appropriate oils if you want. The Owner's Manual should tell you what VW dictate for VW number (50? ??) is required for your engine. Again the following link tells you a lot about oil specs including VW's dictates. - https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/197/What-is-the-Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/461 Not necessarily for your engine but just one example only of one 1.0 engine from the 7/2020 Owner's Manual.- Next thing you need to know is quaintly needed (I don't know) but if you're used to doing your own servicing you'll know dry fill capacities are higher than real world cold drain and refills. It would have helped if you put your car was a 2020 sooner, it would perhaps help if you change your profile to add/replace the car details as currently you show Octavia tfsi 2.0, 2011. and then if the Fabia is your first Skoda what's the Octavia about?

UK - fishtailing, hairpin bends/turns (a u-turn is to turn the vehicle to face the opposite direction). I have no idea now but there might have been a derogatory term about people from another country in the deleted post which instead of with the other mentioned factor might have caused the deletion.

Hi, welcome. you have posted in the Forum Support section you really want another relevant forum probably best to start at the 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013' forum, I'll 'Report' your post here and see if it can be transferred there. Good luck.

I saw the post but can not remember all that was in it, or the details, but I did notice that you had put something like - [not the same as I am putting now but with the same key words] - before the rebuild driving on the public road and something something something dangerous. I have no real idea if that was the reason the post was removed but I had thought I think I know what you actually meant but it didn't necessarily read that way in the post and a poor choice of words and/or description - but it might have been something else a lot less noticeable to me, or both things, I can't know for sure.

I saw the post but can not remember all that was in it, or the details, other than you reporting that the rebuild made a great improvement on the handling of the car and performance of suspension. Perhaps it was you putting something about previously to the rebuild a perception of danger whilst driving on a public road - but I don't know, I didn't 'Report' it and I am not a Moderator, or site owner, so could not remove the post but I did think the choice of word or description was unwise.

You might be better asking on the appropriate Fabia forum as they are more active.

Personally for short journeys and 3k-miles a year I would go for a 0w-40 or 0W-30 and change it, and filter, at least once a year if you want to keep the car long term. The 0w oils tend to be better oils as it takes a fraction more effort and recipes to get them to 0w. If you are coming from a 2011 car then you will want more use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and/or disconnecting the battery if the car is sitting around unused for weeks, see the Owner's Manual. VW are differ with their oils, in the Owner's Manual they say what VW command number is required but not what mulitigrade or quantity. Lots of oil info here, only one manufacture's info of course. -https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/197/What-is-the-Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/461

That is a sign and warning that the battery needs charging. Best is not to wait for any warning messages or lights but rather when required charge the battery in some way. The use of an appropriate charger maintainer and fully charging the battery will give you peace of mind that the battery is full rather than assuming so with any drive of the car. That might be an error to rely on that, a battery that is low may start the car and the lights seem bright enough. It is better not to let the battery get too low as and low too often as it is more difficult for the battery to fully recover again. There are a lot of very complex computer programs on the car, the computers run on 5v so if the battery gets too low all sorts of unexpected warnings and lights might appear perhaps worrying your mother when possibly all that is required to get rid of them is to (fully) charge the battery. If you want you can do what others have done and disconnect the grey connector at the negative battery terminal clamp and this will disable the stop/start An AGM battery is compatible but needs 'coding' in. I and others have put loads of information on this forum and site about the battery (and its importance), on checking the state of charge of the battery and charging the battery but if you have any more questions on it or the stop/start just ask, someone will usually reply, often with others replying.

Did you find out why there's so much water got on to it?

Another thing is the £6k a total with monthly payments and the interest, regardless of the amount it may be less expensive to borrow the money from elsewhere at less interest and pay a one annual premium. At £6k I'd think any thoughts of "stage 1" or any other mods should be a few years away as they will add to the premium, where as further driver training may reduce premiums and add to the car's and driver's performance.

You must have something different in your set of MoT regulations over there than in England. Here some car owners and buyers think that if a car has a MoT pass then it must be good and fine until the next annual MoT test so I often point out that a (genuine) MoT pass only means the car passed the statutory minimum legal requirement at that one moment in time, to one (hopefully trained and qualified) person's opinion, it doesn't mean the car is good or as good as it should or could be and that the car could potentially fail another test the moment the first test has finished. But a minimum requirement is that the car is roadworthy and if there is something dangerous on or about the car then there is plenty in the MoT test to fail it and unless it was a dodgy MoT it would be failed and the driver told he couldn't drive it on the road until it was put right. No genuine tester would take any chances over anything dangerous, and the word dangerous can appear in a MoT fail sheet with as many items that meet the criteria. Many places only do MoT tests to pick up the work that can follow from even a "PASS" without any "advisories" let alone a "PASS" with "advisories" or a "FAIL". Cars over 40 years old do not need to take a MoT test but if they do they must "PASS" to be allowed to be used on the roads again though much of the modern MoT doesn't and/or can't apply you can fail by just having a bulb not illuminating, empty windscreen washer bottle, etc..

I'm not saying it's impossible that an MoT tester over here is an engineer but I believe generally they are mechanics or perhaps technicians, AFAIK they have to be qualified but you can easily get variances as to their qualified opinion of a condition of something on or about the car which another qualified MoT tester may give a different conclusion to. Bearing mind all results only apply to that one point in time and conditions can change. I was told by one mechanic that my wife's one year old Skoda replacement front dampers would fail the upcoming MoT test so when I got the Skoda Dealership to get in replacement front dampers under warranty and complete an MoT at no charge they reported back to my wife that the new replacement damper were not fitted as they were not required because the Dealership MoT tester (they decline my idea of taking the car elsewhere to get the MoT done) stated they did not require replacement dampers as the one fitted only had "slight misting" and that was normal and acceptable for those dampers. It was not even recorded as an Advisory on the MoT which I had learnt might be the case elsewhere. Qualified people work on personal opinions too, hopefully based on their training and experience.

I have no idea in your case but as a total generalisation, having access to other vehicles as a named driver and putting other named driver(s) on your insurance can often help with lowering the premiums a bit, did you try either to see if it made a difference to the premium. Even experimenting with job titles and type of employer can give different results but always be truthful and the insurers have got better at theses categories and some jobs and employers can cover more than one given category (perhaps best not to put you're a spy unless it's information already freely available or given out to the internet). Applying later for insurance can also make a difference to the premium offered, I too wondered why you didn't research before you passed your test, and well done on passing your test, also why you don't want a black box. Statistics are against you, you are young, and just passed your test in first year of qualified driver, I know I and perhaps the others here might have added to those statistics when young many decades back, if claims and reports were bothered with given the cheap bangers and old cars I had back then. You want to have any car and drive it for a good while before deciding what might be right or wrong with it or need improving as you may change your thoughts with the experience plus need the money for full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs particularly with a second hand and it's not know to you. Best changes you can make to the vehicle to improve it's performance - and I know this won't please you but all here were your age once and thought we were improving our cars with a multitude of aftermarket stuff much of which done nothing, very little or made things worse - best tuning after fully and properly to the whole car servicing, maintenance and repairs particularly of the important items like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include good tyres) then lights and any safety electrics (horn, wiper motor, blower, etc.) then engine. After that, but you might want a bit of a rest from it for a while, but then further driver training and this can be transferred to future cars at no additional cost just practice of it. - Can also help lower premiums sometimes. I don't know a/the 2017 CE Fabia is it a petrol, diesel, 1.0, 1.2, higher or lower horsepower options - does any of this affect the premium (my wife has a 2015, 1.2 Se Fabia but we are both very old oxygen-thieves). Try all the things suggested on this thread to see if you can get a better premium but bear in mind often you get what you pay for with insurance, a cheap insurance can be just that cheap but very expensive if you need to claim on it - and don't get desperate and fall for any insurance scams out there, generally if it looks too good to be true then it is. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I some times wonder if you are the type to be a disciple or supporter of the likes of Andrew Tate but realise it's more likely that he might be a follower or supporter of you. You too seem to have enough time to follow my posts and put sometimes long posts of your own to explain or get at me, I'm pleased you have this free time available as it must be very relaxing for you, I'm glad to be of this benefit to you. How can I be lonely when I have the company of friends like you, I'm beginning to like you a little despite your restricted repertoire. Knitting is poor as an insult, I wish I could knit, I tried it once but was hopeless, I've also seen bearded military men with big-forearms proudly knitting but they didn't use make-up on their facial and head hair. Chat bot, I wonder who you could have been conversing with. 😄

@Thefeliciahacker once again thank you for replying, it might be a difference in language but I could not get the meaning of destroy and damage you have now explained to me from what you initially put. I don't agree that anyone looking for replacement shocks will mistake the information about Koni DAMPERS 🙂 for anything other than has been put. You must also consider that at some point(s) original parts will be unavailable or no longer available. I have been using cars older than the Felicia as daily drivers for longer than you have been alive let alone interested in them so I do have some experience and dare 🙂 I say knowledge of finding technical knowledge and replacement parts dealing with retailers, suppliers and manufactures (and for other items before the "classic" cars). Different times and different places but I can understand anyone at anytime wanting to have fun in fact they must, D.FYLAKTOS has fun driving his Felly up mountain roads and so far at least hasn't killed himself or anyone else (that he's told us about anyway). Up to you what you do but I think and know from personal experience that if you think of women not as chicks but as equal to yourself (or perhaps realise they're generally better if you're a typical heterosexual male) then you will still be able to have fun with just as many girls/women as you want, realise some/many/all may want exact the same as you. I have been to a Porsche test track wet skid pan at Silverstone (about 10 or so miles down the road) a couple of times on Aston Martin Owners Club charity runs (AM factory used to be 20 miles away and I lived about 4 miles from it when I was young) and from what I could see it was the drivers that failed not the cars even those that had non-standard suspension, about half the cars on the run were other than AM. I didn't need to prove I wasn't a good driver and I wasn't in my car for the runs. Young people of your age, boys and girls, would test their cars' capabilities on shopping centres car parks, I think D.FYLAKTOS is well passed that stage of life and too sensible to test to extreme his suspension on wet or dry public roads. Best tuning (after full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs) you can do on a car to increase its performance is driver training and its transferable to many other vehicles. No I wasn't, I put car, components parts as you didn't specify so I couldn't put any particular part of the car, I wasn't thinking of total destruction of the car and didn't realise you meant destroy near purity of the geometry, I think most people would have thought of something physical being damaged and also not in an ultimate crash like the image that was posted, I thought you meant parts or components or part of the car would be damaged which I think most people would consider a reasonable line of thinking if not studying suspension engineering. I've no idea of the percentage of course but I can well imagine that some or perhaps many might just guess, over here I'm sure many just guess too but we do have plenty of specialist in exhaust design, build and install and some specialising in particular makes or types of vehicles. I took my Midget to one and for a middle pipe, there was no computer design used just a length of (header) pipe off the pile and a bit of bending. They had to come out and measure the track of the Midget to make sure they could close the width of their lift enough to get the Midget on it and asked me to drive the car on as it was a pretty close thing when closed up. Just because someone hasn't studied at engineer level doesn't mean they haven't had lots of experience with cars and a lot more than I wanted of those experiences with engineers, mechanics and company owners have been bad, I expect to some extent D.FYLAKTOS has had similar experience so we don't accept all that some engineers, mechanics and company owners tell us is the gospel truth and even not just conning us - present company excepted - meaning I am in no way suggesting you or RicardoM are putting anything but what you know or believe or have any interest in conning anyone, just we have got used to asking questions to confirm matters.

Does this mean program and register the oil pressure regulator valve, or the new EFB battery or both? I can't see the point of a tech fitting a new battery and having an appropriate scan tool for the job and not doing at least changing the serial number and it would be good if he gave you a report of the car as it is when he first scanned it showing battery details and all error codes and then another report after he 'codes' for the new battery and has deleted all error codes that will delete. There was a chap with another model who despite having an appropriate scan tool left the battery change and coding to a professional auto-electrician and months later was on the forum because of battery and other problems and he followed the suggestion of checking the battery 'coding' to find the professional auto-electrician had made the mistake of entering 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (why the computer program allowed this is another mistake to me). The chap fitted a new battery and 'coded' it himself and his problems went away. I am not saying that all your problems, or possibly any of them, are now related to the battery 'coding' because I and others can't see the information or known what the tech has fully done or not done and you might have more than one issue with the car but personally I would want to be shown or emailed a a scan report showing the present battery coding and preferably also a scan report from the first scan as we can all make mistakes and I see no reason why a tech should not give you such information. It should be saved on his machine particularly if his repairs and (hopefully) diagnosis is ongoing. A scan tool is another diagnosis tool that gives information that needs to be interpreted, it can sometimes point directly at the origin of a problem, as perhaps here, or present information for the tech to asses and diagnosis what the problem might be. Again I am not saying the following is the case here just general info for you, some people just shoot the massager and change the part that gives bad news show on the scan tool. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

You could try asking in the relevant Fabia forum. If it's a Mk3 Fabia I'd be interested to know too.

I think Andreas 'Thefeliciahacker' generally seems a good sort (as we say in England) I'm not sure about the "chicks" and "chick" references but I'm not in or from Greece, he gives lots of good and helpful advice in a honest manner. The arrogance is to say D.FYLAKTOS will destroy or damage his car or parts of it and not say what when D.FYLAKTOS has put that his car has been the way it is for 21(?) years. So it must be very slow destruction and damage and considering very few (in the UK at least) have managed to keep Felicias still used on the roads let alone used regularly and driven in a very spirited manner on mountain road. The effect is D.FYLAKTOS and I have been told this will happen because as an engineer has said,, which is fair enough as a higher level of expertise, but the evidence appears to show that this hasn't happened. It might be disturbing to you, but I am not you which I am sure we are both very relieved about, I have seen D.FYLAKTOS take advice but yes he does want to test the advice for himself and see what suits his needs and and wants. Good to know you have some empathy, it must have hurt for you to admit to it. 😉 I get what you want but your methods have been very blunt, often nasty and worst of all for you very ineffective to your original your aims, so as you would with a car, mechanical or engineering problems you must try something else that might resolve your issue rather than using a BFH that's getting you nowhere slowly. But that's just advice for you and I'm not a professional qualified expert of course. You put you want the threads to have correct definitive answers and not misinformation yet there doesn't appear to be a definitive answer here and the only information I can see here is that D.FYLAKTOS' suspension seems to have defied being destroyed or damaged, at least outside what is considered legal in Greece - unless he has a professional examiner that is prepared to give vehicle examination passes without seeing that particular vehicle or use results from another vehicle as some professionals do in the UK (MoT over the phone, as I call it). If Andreas doesn't want to answer me that is fine, nobody is under any obligation to answer any post here and I accept sometimes it's better not to give an answer but I don't under why on this one one but if I can't persuade an answer I certainly can't force one, or you to read passed the second line. 😉

Thanks for replying No I'm not. And how else do you think companies sell their products to the general public, they're not selling exclusively to engineers or trade/commercial concerns with a general website. I do understand and I never put you should not put facts or accept misconceptions. Though you before you could almost guarantee something was a fact and followed with you only deal in facts but I took that as a typo or 'misspeak'. I am advising you not to become too arrogant as some can be, you need some arrogance but then you're best to be certain of your facts, that they are correct and up to date. You will do as you please but I bet you will think differently and be different in 20 or 30 years, but then I can't guarantee it. That's great and pretty rare in my experience and I include myself. Uhmmmmmm? Is it the one that keeps asking questions or the one that dictate what answers are to be given. 🤣 Sorry I couldn't resist. C'mon then please tell me what physical damage will D.FYLAKTOS' set up do, simply name parts damaged (not a lesson in maths and geometry please as it's all beyond me) - I won't "dare" you as I've not heard of such since I left infant school, I just ask you again. If you want to have a laugh or extract the urine out of D.FYLAKTOS or me it's fine by me but in my opinion best not lead by the would-be despot autocratic dictator - but you do as you please and run with who you please, I'm not your parents or grandparents (or senior engineering tutor) to give you advice about life.