nta16

That will put more load on battery and alternator on top of all the other electric heating, motors and electrics on the car so if not already fitted you might (only when required) changed to a larger Ah and perhaps AGM (fleece) 12v battery. If required, even more reason for preventative battery charging and maintaining as the computers run on 5v and they don't usually like the battery getting too low and may make you suffer for that perhaps even before many warning messages and lights. IIRC my wife's 2015 car thinks a car battery is for 5 years (and the alarm battery) owners have proved this to be very pessimistic but it does rely on the owner/driver and and 2019 car owners seem more accepting to a battery life of 5 or 4 years. Only one small thing but it does highlight differences between 2006, 2011, 2015 and 2019 models. I could also be wrong (as I am often) but I personally can't see a 2019 Mk3 Fabia being as good overall longer term ownership experience as a Mk1 or 2006, 2011 model of car, I think the pinnacle has passed but who knows it might return and be surpassed. I've seen others put about remapping for mpg rather than power or ego figures but I've no idea how this affects their insurance and can't remember seeing it on 95 but I might have forgotten, not noticed or missed it. Plenty of threads about mapping here and IIRC recently on mpg mapping and of course power and ego figures but I think you'd be after torque figures and so perhaps mpg too rather than max bhp power and ego figures. VWSkoda isn't the only fruit on the market and Fabia not the only variety if you want VWSkoda, perhaps a slightly different and/or larger and more luxurious model may suit you and be ULEZ.

@ThefeliciahackerI don't know the two companies but do know business very generally (some areas very specifically) but wonder if Koni also engage engineers for the research, design and fitment of their products to the vehicles they are to be fitted to and then perhaps development from use and sales and I would be very surprised if VW didn't employ, internally and externally, very many people in the marketing of their vehicles. Many companies may train their new intake of say engineers, or marketing people or others, and may tell them that they, the engineers or marketing people or others, are the backbone, survival and profit of the company, the present and future of the company which may give some of the engineers or or marketing people or others, a feeling of (greater) importance of their position in and to the company than any/most others in the company when the truth is all people and jobs are important to the company and contribute positives, and some negatives, to the company. Please don't fall into the trap of some engineers and acquire excess arrogance (similar to a medical surgeon but without the extra education, training and experience and often good looks) and look down on others and think you can learn nothing from them (often because they think they already know everything when that is impossible and they can be out of date and wrong with what they know). The jobs you may well want in the future may be ripe picking for AI.

@hzoltaan- couple of quick general thoughts, especially from rebuilding the engine, have you double-checked everything that you have already checked or double-checked or got a fresh pair of eyes to do so. Haynes like all other sources of information (especially me) has errors and omissions and somethings have moved on and/or changed since the books were first published ( petrol, oils, parts quality -up and down, etc., etc.). Over the internet are things about counterfeit NGK plugs, I have no idea how accurate or widespread this really is but counterfeit it was said decades back about counterfeit parts at Merc UK Dealerships but the UK motor trade is rammed full of dodgy people and practices. If you don't have access to compressed air did you also do a wet compression tests. End of quick thoughts (on this at least) I have to put things as I think of them or I forget and I forget enough already. Cheers.

VIN will give pab567 the information he requires - you could perhaps PM it if you don't want to post it here. The VIN is on your V5C (logbook) plates on the car and perhaps(?) paper label in the boot.

Ask the Dealership or warranty company if this is covered. Are you closing the window with the engine running or not, if not perhaps low battery and/or the guides need cleaning and lubricating or it could be the regulator or motor or some alignment or partial blockage issue. I'd start with at least reporting it and seeing if it's covered or chargeable, then if required cleaning/lubricating (many servicing, maintenance, repairs, computer stuff often boils down to some sort of cleaning and lubricating). If you have access to a relevant scan tool it could give you further diagnosis and testing. Last for me personally would be taking the door panel off and messing with parts.

Hi, welcome. If you've not already done so, read your Owner's Manual and it will tell you a lot about the car and using and driving it. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a free pdf downloaded from Skoda. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models And here to check for updates. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And here for Recalls (that VWSkoda have actually admitted to) possibly the battery one for you if not already attended to. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Videos of useful info and tips (some backing up some of what's in the Owners Manual). - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 HTH.

Good point. Is there much loaded weight difference between a 95 and 110 - could that be more about marketing and 'mine's bigger than yours' driver appeal or perhaps for a 110 owner to be expected to drive faster and brake harder, and perhaps later. Better tyres help with better braking with 110 or 95 or 288 or 256. As always each to their own and have what you want/need.

My wife's 2015 SE IIRC has - an out of date puncture repair bottle, horrible little plug-in inflator thing (I always use manual foot pump), bent bit of wire for pulling out rear light cluster and (doesn't work on) front wheel arch bulb covers, a double ended screwdriver, security wheel bolt key, tow hook, plastic wheel nut cover remover tool, polystyrene moulding. I can't check as the car's not here. Just found this, it looks complete but my wife's car was s/hand when she bought it. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115469883015

I can only put about my wife's 2015, Mk3, hatch, 1.2 TSI, 90, 4-cylinder, SE, 5-speed manual. @Rooted can give you info on the DSG boxes, there's enough computer program interference with manual boxes for me without introducing more but others will have other opinions and I haven't driven with a DSG (but other makes and and systems, Mercs, Renault-Nissan and other(s) I forget). As far as I can see from the various forums, threads and posts on here the Mk3 doesn't seem as well built as a Mk2 or Mk1, the later Mk2s at least weren't as well built as the Mk1s. The 90 (1.2 TSI 4-cylinder) has more than enough when carry just the driver or driver and passenger but with a couple of extra people on board (or perhaps heavy luggage?) the difference is noticeable but depends on what you want and expect and what you drive on and how. Obviously the torque is entirely different to a diesel and different muck coming out of the exhaust but perhaps less of it and none to see unlike the diesel on ordinary diesel fuel. The 5-speed box in my wife's car is fine to the engine, depending on what car's you are used to driving it seems a bit slow and no so precise on change feel even for a family saloon but I've never fully believed in the 'German engineering quality' marketing for this century at least perhaps different models and boxes are better but the box in my wife's car is OK for its purpose. Personally a 2019 car is as new as I would ever consider (I drive my neighbour's 23 plate Renault-Nissan) for all the stuff that has to be on the year of cars and all the driver's extra and computer programs' intrusions that stop or hinder the driver driving the car or stilting the driving pleasure, when available. More sensors, modules, computer programs and the stop/start mean more computer joys' and battery use so I think back to the days of having and using a battery charger (and maintainer now). On the plus side of the computers if you want to be more of a passenger behind the steering wheel there is more to help you with that and if you want higher mpg the potential is better with the newer cars. Cabin spaced is very good for the size of the car, seats comfort is always a matter of personal size and shape. The oversized wheels and tyres with narrow band is (? I think) even more exaggerated than earlier models and can be more so if you want. Handling on the SE isn't sporting but any handling can be fun if you drive within it's (and your) limit. My wife's car had to have the front dampers changed at 6years old and 41k-miles, a mate has a 29 year old Toyota Supra still on factory fitted dampers and springs all round and few parts ever replaced a neighbour with a not so well looked after 20+ year old Toyota Yaris still on factory fitted dampers and springs and very few other parts replaced. Don't get caught with paying for a cambelt change like we and many others have. The computer programs can give all sorts of under bonnet engine noises you just have to let them get on with it and bumps/rattles/squeaks come from under the car on the earlier Mk3s at least it seems and they can be hard to locate or even stop it seems. This might seem a strange thing to suggest but I would read the Owner's Manual for the car you are considering as it can tell you a lot about driving and owning the car how different it is to your present car(s). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Others will hopefully be along to give you a more glowing review, I also drive another neighbour's 2005 small Korean car and I find that overall more comfortable than my wife's Fabia and a lot less annoying to drive than my other neighbour's 23 plate Renault Nissan with 5-speed manual and stop/start.

You would have to contact Skoda or the seatbelt manufacturer about parts but I can't imagine they would sell anything but a full seat belt but I could be wrong. You could see if used parts are available, probably as a complete working stalk and catch, perhaps best to avoid any where the vehicle has been in a serious crash and if it is driver's side then those are the most worn anyway so age/use considerations. When changing the stalk you might (I don't know) have to consider unplugging a connector, getting at the connector, perhaps disconnecting the battery and whatever is required not to upset any VW computer system or computer safety system. A new screw is required and that it is clean when fitting. Also if I remember correctly(?) and it still applies but I don't know, it used to be that UK cars used imperial threads and sizes for seatbelt anchor point fittings even if the rest of the car was metric, whether that applied or makes any difference to the UK Skoda seat belt stalk part or fitting I have no idea. I have fitted seatbelts to old British cars and it was quite straight forward but I have no idea with modern cars. In the UK you didn't have to legally wear front seatbelts until the 1980s (IIRC) and rear seatbelts later still, though anchor point had to be installed by the car manufacturer since 1963(?) IIRC(?), a UK 1970s car might have front seatbelts fitted from factory but not rear ones. We are grateful to Sweden for the three-point but like many things England had the start of a seat belt all much earlier and let it slip by. There might be a part number on the stalk/catch even perhaps a VW one but I really don't know. Perhaps others will have more and better ideas and information than me. Let us know how you get on, good luck.

Are they both from the same car and both factory original, only the image on the right looks the same as the front seat buckles in my wife's 2015UK MK3 Fabia, the image on the left I have no idea if it is broken or a just a different type of buckle to go into it. If you have anything broken on a seatbelt then replace it, the seatbelt serves an important purpose and just like you should not rely and wait for any dash warnings you should not rely on the SRS airbags especially without fully working seatbelts being worn, but I expect you do not need telling that living in Sweden with your country's history of seatbelts.

@Vam as above best to have a EFB or AGM battery and 'coded' correctly particularly if you want or have to have the stop/start system active. But an alternative in short or medium or perhaps long term, depending on how old your conventional battery is and its life's use and abuse you could retain it for longer (or much longer) by charging it up and if your state laws allow it disconnecting the battery monitor connection at the negative battery connection so that the stop/start system is inactive. VCDS isn't the only system that can do the battery coding, basically as put before you want the Ah of the battery correct (or near enough perhaps) and the type e.g EFB/AGM (fleece) and change the "serial number" often/sometimes(?) ten ones (1111111111) from the VW's factory, the make is of battery can be left the same or ignored, JCB from factory and to five characters in the name code in my example below done with an OBDEleven computer program. I have no idea if the VW computer programs would allow you to 'code' on VCDS or the VW 'coding' programs to conventional battery and get it charged through the car's battery computer program but if it didn't make the stop/start inactive you would want to otherwise it would get through a conventional battery quicker.

Thanks for your reply, I have not looked back my posts here, and not wanting to light any fireworks again here, I think I might have put something like that you were polite enough to have responded to my post(s) and then probably put my usual thoughts that anyone can ignore my posts, or anyone else's, if they want, this was in answer to other(s) not yourself. Also, very unusually I actually remembered something and that was that you probably weren't able to rush back with replies anyway. I am not sure where you are with you ignition firing and don't know which igniter head (as I call it) you have fitted but as a generality bear in mind the electronic may give different figures to CB points and book figures. With my fully electronic (top and bottom) 123 dissy it would scar the brand new Bosch/Beru/other dissy cap posts (for the want of a better word) from the very first turnover let alone start. I never checked my HT leads but they were very good quality. As there was (an unquantified) fat spark I opened the spark plugs up a bit, but nowhere near as some suggested, and on an engine builder's/tuner/engineer/author/engine-model specialist rolling road we found 0.30" was best instead of as book 0.25". This was on an Austin/BMC/BL A-series engine though, with NGK plugs.

Well done. To help a bit with removal and refitting of plastic and other bits I use a spray of an appropriate penetrating/releasing lubricant, usually GT85 I like to let the appropriate chemicals (or natural) products do as much, or all, of any hard work - but they can't do much on a PITA job like this, but then most jobs tend to be a pain in the back, neck or elsewhere to and for me. 🙃

I will put what the others are thinking - well they would say that wouldn't they. Of course no different to the German marques still being thought as "German engineering quality" as meaning high quality when some/much of it has dropped and disappeared since the end of last century/millennium. People believe what they want to believe, what is a "fact" today could be, or not, or disproved later even by and with the same expertise that made the fact previously. Your link didn't work (for me at least) this one does (for me at least). - https://www.koni.com/products-car-strt If it's open season for urine extraction then I will have to sharpen my wits, shouldn't take long based on what has been put for sometime, or just leave it as some can dish it out well enough but not soak it up well when it's in their direction and the standard of humour, to my opinion, isn't high.

Not being a fan boy of Skoda, VW or any car marque I can put that it has been known for many compromises, and mistakes, to be on cars from the necessary compromises of their general sales and the companies wanting profit, wages and dividends for their share holders and other factors. Sometimes they rectify these issues for whatever reason and sometimes they don't for whatever reason. I've no idea if or how much a Felica could or needs any further development but to regard any engineers, Skoda or not (and I'm not getting at Thefeliciahacker) as infallible gods is flawed in my personal experience and personally knowing fully qualified engineers (not in car suspension). I have still not been told what it is that will cause physical damage or destruction with D.FYLAKTOS set up and don't understand if is dangerous how it gets through (14?) of your MoT equivalent to allow the car on your roads or at least some sort of mention of potential future issue(s). I can understand that one after market suspension parts set up might be better and have more research done with its application but not a bigger company sells something that is dangerous to be used on the roads - unless they sell with very strict instruction that the parts are for track or other use and not roads use. As I put before you would not want to refit factory fitted dampers on the Fabia Mk3 as they can be very short life as I and others have found.

Excluding the multigrade range (and any VW numbers for you) here a good oil is a good oil and a better oil is better, how much better and how much you benefit can be variable and may be small steps - or nothing if you believe they're all the same or it doesn't matter on an old car - "you pays your money and you makes your choice". If you use an appropriate oil to your conditions you won't go wrong, up to you what degrees of going right you want or need. Not my car and whether it would fully suit all of your exacting requirements but given Thefeliciahacker experience I would still think about giving a (very?) good quality synthetic 15w-50 a try particularly out of winter.

Early days - no I'm joking. 😁 All being well with a 2019 car you might avoid the potential additional delights of later cars. Now I only drive occasionally a 2005, 2016 or 2023 and I can tell you I prefer the 2005. When you get sorted come back and let us know what caused the light and what sorted it, other the replacing the car of course. 😁

In that case you might as well go to - https://www.clubmotul.co.uk/p/motul-hybrid-sae-0w12-fully-synthetic-engine-oil/88

Not enough details for me to see anything obvious quickly on the company sites and I don't have enough interest now to contact the companies but if you find anything it's only a matter of conformation and editing a MS Word.x doc and saving as pdf to get it on here.

Obviously the scanner has to be relevant to your vehicle for deeper stuff but it can be a general other make other than VCDS (and the others I forget) and the better the scanner and VW specific the more it can see and do but a good and reliable cheaper model may get the light off, delete error codes, find generic things. You don't want anything unreliable of course otherwise it could lead you up the wrong path. £150 for a plug-in, do you get that or some of it taken off the bill if you have work done? You could perhaps look for a good independent (VW perhaps) garage or a good reliable auto-electrician. Are you up to date with any servicing, Recalls, updates, getting in a few good blow out runs if you have a GPF. You want to get it sorted but if the car, battery and alternator are going fine otherwise perhaps it's not urgent but Sod's Law if you forget about it it'll give you an unexpected reminder. Good luck.

OFF Topic Warning @Rooted sorry I wasn't able to PM this to you so have put it below for you (and anyone else). Updated petrol list, ethanol free seems to be no more, for those on the list at least. petrol.pdf

Just to remind you the 15w-50 you used wasn't a synthetic, IIRC (which I may not) you always seem happier using a synthetic oil (which is why I couldn't understand you going to the mineral as it would be an unfair comparison for you).

Loads of places in UK but care is need on quality, use and supplier (just ask Titan Motorsport). .

Why not see if there's someone near you able to help you out with a report at least and perhaps deleting error code(s) and see what comes back or even perhaps further diagnosis - perhaps for just beer tokens. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Tow bar wiring might be a fun area. Good luck, let us know how you get on.