nta16

Sensor(s), gauge, electric connections, electric wires, computer or computer program issues - as Rooted has put mention it before the car goes in. You could see if your car has any (admitted by VW) Recalls, you can do an online check here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

or more, or a lot more

Sorry I didn't make myself clear, I'm not suggesting that anyone doesn't fit a car alarm if they want to though the old devices of steering wheel and gear lever locks may be more of a visual deterrent. There may be certain types that will steal sturdy very old cars for special banger races, I don’t think we have much trouble around here despite having the longest serving short oval track in the UK, Northamptonshire is very much into motorsport in the past and present. I've no idea about the criminals of the Dominican Republic or Bristol but around here an old car is about 10 years old not 30+ and they're stolen for their parts or parts taken off the car whilst it's parked, alarm or not. Unless the owner or a good neighbour is around a car, and home, alarms are just considered a nuisance because of all the false activations and taken little notice of. Elsewhere catalytic converters are a popular item for thieves, they just raise one side of the car and cut them off in no time or with higher set vehicles they don’t even need to raise them. For ram raids bigger heavier vehicles are used like Range Rover, or JCB diggers for cash-machines. Joyriding would be faster cars and not always by someone who has stolen the car. Innocuous older cars, but not 30 years old, may be taken and used as pool cars, shared by those they don’t bother with legal niceties like driving license, insurance, road tax for themselves and sometimes only kept until the fuel tank is empty. Cosmetically good and higher value “classic” cars may be targeted but very good running and mechanical ”classics” that are not very high show finish generally are left alone unless they are something very special in some way. Old fashion joy riding is rarer now. But as I put that is all around here, near me I don’t know generally or nationally in UK. The most stolen cars in the UK (2022) - https://www.whatcar.com/news/the-most-stolen-cars-in-the-uk/n21162 High value cars stripped down for parts and sold online or taken via ferry to Lithuania -https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-leicestershire-57786062 String of cars stripped of parts in Birmingham city centre - https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-birmingham-64568353

I'd not loose any sleep over it - and, if you didn't do so beforehand, despite what some think it is not illegal or immoral for a man to read an instruction book before using something. 😉

In the UK back in the day the Skoda badge was enough, now as then a lot of ignorant snobby people live on the isles, particularly England (or Ingerlund as some chant.

Forgot, my wife's Favorit had a boot light that was a detachable torch rechargeable torch, that was when Skoda really did have Clever ideas. Was just about to go for my winter bath (don't tell the Water Board they've not Sunday cover for this) but on seeing the 105 another quick one of my many car stories - I was once lent the (proper) Skoda garages starship of the fleet a very used and abused 105 mk1 which they said they couldn't kill, it took a little while to build up speed but once it got going it went well, heavy steering even for its day. I was told to ignore the petrol gauge, as I went sailing a car on a dual-carriageway I then had to pull in and stop as the petrol had run out, garage co-owners said when I told him "I didn't say to ignore the warning light". 😄 Lost it now but I did have a digital photo of the front cover of Auto Car(?) where they put something like " what's as good as a Golf GTi at half the price" showing IIRC a black Rapid 136 which I used to tease Porsche 911 owners I later knew, and didn't know, with as I used to say the Estelle (Rapid) was like the Porsche, and the Estelle was used in a kit as the basis of a Porsche Spyder. ETA: 1979/80 1980/81 is a newish car to me as I had various British "classics" (overpriced and overvalued old) cars as daily drivers for 30 years until last year.

Complete with 80s style sunroof. One of my (new then) Estelle 2s had that style sunroof with IIRC the radio aerial in in, a great Skoda idea that other manufacturers cars didn't have IIRC. My Rapid Estelle 2 had the aerial in the rear screen, good idea until you turned the heated screen switch IIRC, I can't remember if it was that feature or another that was shared with only any car which was a supercar of the time. I had three Estelle 2s in the mid to late 80s so I knew every joke, the sheep like, The Sun readers told, I also added the grille mounted spotlights, and hanging from bumper fogs to one of them.

Wezzlers will know better having the actual wires in daylight but just as conformation to what has been put earlier, on my PC monitor, to me eyes and brain, allowing for camera and image colours - 1 = Orange (reddish looking here) 2 = Red 3 = Red (very pinkish looking here)

Personally I'd not use the Pulse Repair setting unless the battery was really low (at or beyond "death's door") and I've no idea how much the VW computer program would like it. Up to you what you do but I would just have it on the normal 12v setting and let the charger do its stuff (connected as per charger manual and car's Owner's Manual). Note the Owner's Manual has 0.1 or lower for charging so an 8-amp (or lower) charger for say a 79 (aH) capacity battery, going a bit over isn't the end of the world particularly with a "smart" charger and maintainer, going lower will take longer (but I believe is better) . I personally prefer to go lower and charge for long as I've found over decades of charging my neighbour's car batteries, some of them "dead" (for a couple of years in the garage for one) that a very lower and very slow charge goes deeper and extends the battery's use and life longer. Some (well one) disputes this but you can look up battery manufacturer's recommendations for yourself, I put my decades of experience but perhaps I'm wrong and fooling myself as over that time I have failed to revive a couple of very "dead" batteries, one with buckled plates in one cell. I've only once IIRC needed to recharge a battery on one of my cars - then my wife bought this VW product and things changed a bit and I bought (another) new "smart" charger (I already had a 20 year old 1.8-amp Optimate and 30 year old 4-amp Bradex chargers) as the car does lots of short journeys so I do a few preventative chargers with (too late on one as battery start/stop illuminated, I won't let that happen again.

I no longer have the original photo so I've had to crop from the one I lifted off this site and posted earlier in the thread. It's not a very clear image now and didn't show that the battery charger/maintainer negative clip is connected to battery to body cable where it's retained by a painted nut on my wife's car (brown arrow). Circled in orange is the battery monitor thingy thing (forget what it's called).

I think what ApertureS might be getting at, and apologies if I'm wrong, is that it might not be telling the computer program that the battery is being charged as it's not connected (as in Owner's Manual) to the "ground point of the engine" before the battery and the black connector at the negative battery post that monitors battery charging and as you do such short infrequent journeys the program, isn't able to pick up on the charging or battery state (if the programing does this "learning"). A = the post Images from 2016/5 Octavia III Owner's Manual

Well you're certainly not all memory otherwise you'd remember I'm not answering your trolling questions - but as you're not being your usual obnoxious self to me, for that one post at least, and only being sarcastic, and I don't mind sarcasm, even from you, despite the fact you can dish it out but not receive it, perhaps having all those ears taking up some of your emotional brain space, well in that case I can tell you . . . . . . to go and find out for yourself as you never believe me. 😁

Sorry I've only just noticed NOT synthetic, what possessed you, mineral 15w-50 is fine but you've been using synthetics for the other multigrade scales. The 15w-50 (any good) synthetic I would have guessed would also give slightly higher fuel consumption and quieter idle but I would expect it to preform better than the 15w-50 mineral oil on cold starts and hot city and hot mountain summer drives. I would not send you to the bar to get my English ale as you would probably come back with some European lager! ☹️ 😄

If you are keeping the car for a very long time a change can be useful to empty out any debris/contamination that might be in the system but refilling should be under pressure unless you are careful, or don't care too much about the engine possibly getting hot from forcing air up to get more coolant in. You can do partial drain and refills as partial empty out and refresh. On the G12evo 5 litre containers it has - "GB Suitable as a filled-for-life filling G12evo distinguishes itself through miscibility with G13 and G12 plus plus. Provides protection against, frost overheating corrosion and scaling. It is recommended to use the product all year round. To be used as described only." Miscibility just means they mix together fine. "a filled-for-life filling" isn't quantified, who or what's life, I take it as out of VWSkoda manufacturer's extended warranty, you might take it as 10 years or whatever. Fords has filled for life gearboxes and axles(?) decades back but when I've emptied those out the fluids haven't looked in the best condition. Whilst the antifreeze part of the coolant remains useable for a good while other elements of the mixture can wear/deplete that protect against corrasion and help lubricate components, of course VW's stuff might be special and superior, I don't know. VW being VW have to have their own number for coolant, was G13 (following G12 + +) so of course their latest/current (unless they changed their minds again or "improvements") is I believe, no not G14, G12evo. On my wife's 2015 I found G13 marked on the expansion tank (after I watched a video on a MK3 Fabia about something else) so yours might have whatever G number VW thought in 2018. You can get it premixed in 5 litre containers for -25C or -35C (G 12E 040 A3 or G 12E 050 A3) I'd not lose sleep over which or both were put in, I find it a bit less expensive to buy from a SEAT Dealership. On the label of the container is also "Can be used up to five years from the production date in the closed original container. See below" and below is the production date. Perhaps the plastic container doesn't keep the coolant as well as in the car's cooling/heating systems you'd have to ask VW. If a container of oil or coolant or other mixed stuff have been standing for more than a few weeks I always give them an upside down shake before using them just incase, certainly would for a can of oil that's been sitting in a garage for who knows how long, can do no harm (I'd personally only use that oil in someone else car if they wanted or as a flushing/cleaning oil.

Not all filters have a drain back valve - but if it's a good filter and appropriate to the car it will have. That doesn't surprise me but what aspects are you unsatisfied with?

@Warrior193 you might have seen me put before but if not - I used Mobil 1 in my MGB 1.8 and 3.5 and Spridgets *and synthetics in other cars) from the 90s onwards AFAIK the engines were built in the 60s and 70s (designed in the 50s of course). When I first started using the Mobil 1 I was told it'd ruin my engines and teeth and looks, usually by those who rarely used their classics whereas mine I used for years for work, commuting, 300 and 500 mile a week commutes for many months too, not so much the V8 though 🙃, holidays, club tours and events so put thousands of annual miles on each. The engines were all fine with my use and subsequent owners - and I kept all my teeth and looks (and modesty).

Tyres throw off a lot of mess one of which is noise, all modern cars have larger and wider fashion wheels than they used to so even more mess and there are more cars on the rougher roads with more homes nearer bigger and busier roads so the authorities and tyre manufacturers had to do something about the noise at least, or at least look like they are. Personally I take the tyre labelling with a pinch of salt, things might have improved but when it first came in tyres I'd used that were good for grip were rated lower on the label than the tyres I had to swap to next that weren't as good but were rated higher on the label. I'd have no idea about noise level as the cacophony of other car noises were greater.

That doesn't matter if the Recall hasn't been done. Recall 97CU was carried out on my wife's 2015 Fabia a couple of months before the annual service in 2018 so I guess, as I can't remember, that the Dealership or VWSkoda asked my wife to take her car in for the check, I've no idea if they done anything my wife doesn't bother with such details. Consult the Kia's Owner Manual or follow what others have done. Good luck.

When I renewed my BT broadband contract with landline I had to go "Digital Voice" (new type of hub phone instead of old school phone), no choice no problem for me but it might be for those with personal health alarm systems. I had the BT Smart Hub 2 already (and BT Youview tv box which hasn't been switched on or connected for years). - https://www.bt.com/help/broadband/learn-about-broadband/different-types-of-bt-hub I didn't know what Dect was. - https://www.gigaset.com/en_en/cms/phones/dect.htm The new package included a BT Voice phone and charger base, the phone's shape and size makes it impractical to carry around like I sometimes did with my 25+ year old BT Siemens cordless phones. And I don't think the new phone would stand being dropped on the concrete path and twice left outside overnight in the rain and being left to air dry out (no rice was used) like one of my BT Siemens cordless was. I've heard on consumer programs (BBC Radio 4) for a couple of years now about problems with switch over for people without computers and broadband but landline phones only and personal health alarm systems and certainly the last one I heard a while back BT were still having problems sorting some of the issues but gawd knows what they were playing at and what level of "engineer" they were repeatedly sending out. Having the new hub (?) phone light up did show when the broadband went down, for a matter of seconds by then the hub has to go through its process, it's not very often but I've probably never noticed before getting this phone it happening. Without broadband and mains electric connection you are without the phone unless you have a mobile phone (that's in reception and battery isn't flat) and not everyone has a mobile phone, or, hard for most to believe, wants a mobile phone. To be fair, a neighbour who read it in the Daily Mail told me about this digital switch over a number of years ago, more than two years IIRC(!?). Unless things have changed since I last heard many elderly people may have lots of issues and problems with this switch over.

(ETA: Warrior193 posted whilst I was still typing so I'd put some of the same but have left it in here.) For the Kia if the bonnet is alarmed and alarm set it'd go off otherwise I've used a smart charge and my 20+ year-old Optimate charger on my neighbour's Kia (with an old small battery) every couple of months or less as the car is almost a garden ornament. Check the Kia's Owner's Manual (it's not against the law to do so as some seem to believe) for battery charging. For your Optimate perhaps it is undersize and/or not left on long enough for your battery or are you sure the power socket you plug it into is permanently live and doesn't switch off with the ignition switched off. "One thing to note about this accessory, is that you will need your 12V socket to be live, even when the vehicle is turned off. So this accessory will not work if your vehicle has ignition shut off." - https://www.ctek.com/uk/news-archive/battery-charging-without-even-needing-to-lift-the-hood Have you checked to see if your car was part of the recall (well those that VW will admit to) to do with battery or battery system? - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Perhaps the warranty replacement battery was a cheap or inappropriate for your vehicle and it's use (or perhaps not on either). Halfords seem high priced on the less expensive batteries and reasonable on the more expensive and better batteries, I'd suggest you get the best appropriate battery you can but be aware Halfolds seem to use their own system for battery numbers (e.g. the three or four digit number) so do cross-reference any battery their database throws up. Another neighbour got a Halfords battery using their database and it had a different hold down to the car and was lower capacity at higher price than the ones from elsewhere.

@gregoir as you don't use your car in the average way you could just fully recharge the battery and extend its useful life just by using a a battery charger and maintainer. Plenty around for £25 or less (Lidl usually have them for about £15 this time of year). Jump start is for when things have gone too far whereas charger/maintainer can be for rescue before that or better still prevention. You want to recharge your before you get the start/stop not being available or at least when it first starts to become available then you'll get more years out the expensive EFB (and much more expensive AGM) battery. To recharge the battery just follow the instructions with the charger and in the Owner's Manual of the car. For slow discharge from lack of car use and short journeys, unless you're also use lots of the electrical items in and on the car during these short journeys, best is a slow recharge, so a 3-amp or 4-amp charger and maintainer is best, it will charge the battery from shorter and heavier discharge easily too but just take longer than a 6-amp (or 8 amp) charger and maintainer. My wife's car (2016 Fabia) does lots of very short journeys so I recently put the battery on charge just as a preventative measure as the time before I unexpectedly put the battery charger and maintainer on when for the first (and only time) the start/stop was unavailable from the expensive AGM battery (fitted a couple of years ago). If you can cancel the jump pack and get a battery charger and maintainer as needing to jump start the car doesn't always happen at a convenient time whereas you can do preventative chargers at convenient times. ETA: Using a battery charger and maintainer is a very easy and clean-hands job, it does the work whilst you're inside warm and dry doing anything a lot more interesting than farting about to keep the VW computer programs happy. Photo of my wife's Fabia being charged overnight when it was around freezing (above and below) this January. (Other makes, models suppliers and prices are available) - Ring RSC804 "4a Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer" (up to 90 Ah) (they do a 6 amp version too RSC 806, up to 110 Ah)) - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804 £23.49 - a bit less from some other places - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334438759247

No relevance that you can see - and I am not willing to explain to you given your return to trolling. I made the mistake of giving you a reply as so much time had passed since you last pursued me but you have returned to your acerbic dismissive attitude which you have had sometimes to backtrack with others, but I know you won't for me so once again I will ignore your barbs and questions. :shakeshead: like a one legged man starting an arse-kicking competition 🤣

Take care with brakes don't overheat them new. Brakes, which includes the tyres, are the most important thing on and with a car so with this issue if you are not sure about it, the cause and the remedy, then take the car to a good garage to be sorted as you always want fully working brakes for the sake of yourself, your passengers and everyone else, cars do not matter people do. You never know when an accident might happen, my wife's had a small bump in her Fabia this morning! and I've had enough accidents to know the importance of fully working brakes (steering, suspension).

The example I used (instead of re-greasing). - Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaning Lubricant I've no idea if that's so, or not, might even be that VW say a new bolt/screw is used each time, I just went with cleaning and thread lock. Hopefully in an accident the airbag would go off before the wheel comes off but I don't know always better to be safe than sorry or do what settles your mind.

Very wise. Unfortunately if you're one that Sod's Law likes to kick in the tender parts about cars like me then the first owner, or certain manufacturers, create or put in latent faults for the subsequent owner to discover and have the joy of the experience and expenditure. 😃 With cars and the motor trade I've had the opposite of a Midas touch, no matter how much I pay or look after them they very rarely look after me, with the exception of Japanese manufacturers but I'm sure that'd change if I bought a new (or new-ish) one now. 😄