nta16

As the first reply poster put it appears to be, according to your photo of the scan tool, a possible problem with, or to, or at, the "Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor" which if left unresolved may lead to a problem with the DPF if the car's computer doesn't get to do its jobs properly. You could perhaps try unplugging the EGT sensor and see what different readings or codes you get on your scan tool. You could perhaps just resolve by doing as you're doing and taking the car on blow-out runs and unless it seem too frightening do the blow-out runs using a couple of tankfulls of V-Power. Or if you like getting dirty dry cleaning the sensor. Or if you like spending on new parts replace the sensor - but check it with a multimeter first and check the wiring and connections, you already know someone here to help you with that. With your photo if you held the phone at landscape instead of portrait you'd have a better image of the scan tool screen.

I would guess the brake cylinders may have been either a rare failure or their manufacture was very poor and/or they might have included ****-poor rubber seals. On the Midget I had a about 2 years or less old rear wheel slave cylinder go overnight whilst the car was parked at a national show, great to see as I arrived first thing in the morning and meaning no more passenger rides for donations to charity. I have got rid of my records now and I cannot remember if this wheel cylinder failure only happened the once, other ****-poor rubbish rubber products certainly gave repeated failures when trying different general suppliers. With "classic" British car parts buying any modern made part with rubber in it at the time was a gamble at the time even if it was from an old manufacturer name with a good reputation as companies or their names are sold and the new products manufactured completely elsewhere using lower quality materials and manufacturing. With the Midget you could buy 'repair kits' for the wheel cylinders but as these are just rubber seals and very mostly 'aftermarket' so you were on the same gamble. I do not know but quality of these parts may have improved purely by the large turnover of parts stock and perhaps complains or the ****-poor rubber products were used up as they would be replaced at a rapid rate. If you have bought exactly the same wheel cylinders again from the same batch of manufacturing then you might, or might not, get the same results. Have you researched the brand the of wheel cylinders you have bought, sometimes it is best to pay more and get good brands from (brake) specialist suppliers rather than general parts suppliers. Hopefully you have better luck this time.

Apologies @Murdockman, today I had the opportunity to change the setting on my wife's 2015 Fabia from what it's always been on of 'All doors' to 'Single' (driver's door and fuel flap) and as you rightly put one press of the unlock button on the remote unlocks the driver's door (and fuel flap) and two presses opens all doors. Tonight I was able to test with the second remote that was left at home far away from when doing the setting and it too operates as one press 'Single' and two presses 'All doors'.

Has your car been reprogramed or recoded with VCDS or other scan tool for remote and/or door opening options during your possession (or possibly before) as I can see no mention of two presses on the remote will open all doors in the pdf copy of the 2018 'Owner's Manual' I'm looking at. (ETA: see my next post). - When your remote plays up, or remote that doesn't, do you get the "Fault with the central locking" at all. - The pdf of the 2018 'Owner's Manual' I'm looking at has after taking the remote battery out to "Hold any button on the key for about 5 s" - I don't know how important the 5 seconds is but I'd press for at least a timed 5 seconds. And I'd synchronise the key using the key blade blade just in case. - Up to you but for the sake of £300 as it's free to do I'd try - (keep both keys well apart from each other and deal with each remote individually, so doing both individually as follows) take the battery out of the remote and do the hold the button for 5 seconds synchronise the remote whilst in the car with the remote change the settings on the infotainment menu away from and back to 'Single door' setting and see if that's a complete waste of time or not. ETA: BTW what does DKRC mean?

I meant to put this doesn't sound right to me, for my wife's 2015 car at least, but it's not here to check and I've never set it to only open driver's door and fuel flap. As I understand it you set it to open driver's door and fuel flap, driver's side and fuel flap or the lot and that's all it does whether you press the unlock button once or twice - but perhaps I'm wrong.

Was your car a 2018 or 2019 built car, 2018 appears to have the paper printed copy of the 'Owner's Manual' whereas 2019 has the even more annoying and less helpful digital version and for 2019 it has an extra instruction after removing the old key battery and before fitting the new key battery of - "Press any button on the remote key to reset the key" which I can't remember seeing on earlier versions of instructions.

When you change the batteries do you do the synchronising of the remote control?

Is yours a KESSY remote?

Google translation to English. - Good morning, I am a new owner of a Skoda Fabia December 2018 I cannot connect my iPhone for carplay despite the function activated on the car radio I'm thinking of updating the firmware to see if the problem persists. Can you help me ? Thanks in advanced.

Apologises I got mixed up.

Yes that's the point I was getting at. toot might know but I can't remember the details now (longer patch on thinner tyre?) but the (driven?) tyre contact footprint isn't a straight percentage equation one width against another which is why going up one tyre width or so didn't mean more "grip as there's more tyre on the road" because it was about the same but it all got lost in the mine's bigger than yours fashions. But as you and toot have put having three X-make and model of 225/45/19 tyres with whatever wear and pressure against one Y-make and model of 135/80/18 possibly unused tyre at the same(?) or different(?) pressure isn't the best match of the four corners.

Sorry I'm not sure you got a conclusive answer, perhaps more posters will add later.

In the above example from Carlston's recommended 135/80/18 (80 profile, them were the days) there's only a (nominal) 1.9% difference would this be acceptable mechanically and for the computer not to light up the dash like a Xmas tree? And would the 135 against 235 make any odds on normal roads?

I don't know the answer about damage but @toot probably will and with my call out to him will post here as he's a very helpful chap. In the meantime - It also depends on if the car is RWD and has a limited-slip diff. Personally I'd avoid using a space saver on any vehicle and have done for over 20 years since fitting a space-saver (at front) to a low powered MX-5 (RWD no LSD) and travelling at only 30 mph through town. I personally would certainly avoid it on a 4X4. Because of fashion all modern vehicles (over here at least) have very oversized wheels and tyres so when wheel of 3.5" wide and tyres 125 (5" nominal) and 135 (5.3") is seen they're totally unfamiliar with them. I still have a spare (full-sized!) 3.5" wheel in my shed with a 145 (5.7" nominal) tyre and most people would now be amazed that such wheels and tyres were on vehicles in the past. Assuming your tyres are 225/45 R19 (stupid Skoda site has "19" Vega alloy wheels in polished black" and "Tires 205/40 R17 84W"(!?) if you had a 135/80 r18 you would be going from (nominal) width of 225 (8.9") to 135 (5.3"), 125 (5") would be even narrower of course.-

If you are looking in UK English then you want "faces" rather than "masks", that is, custom gauge faces. In the USA they might be called "faceplates". These tend to be printed stickers (quality and material of stickers varies). Only as one example but not for premade Skoda as I could not find any - https://lockwoodinternational.co.uk/dials/custom-dials/ and - https://www.speedycables.com/instruments/custom-gauges/ Or do-it-yourself, see "Step 4: Designing Your Face Plate" here. - https://www.instructables.com/Customized-Car-Instrument-Cluster-Gauge-Face/ Imported cars to the UK often need the speedo face changing to comply with UK regulations so there are companies that do this and can change the other dial faces too, just as an example and no more. -https://www.speedofixer.co.uk/automotive_custom_dials_made_to_order.html I hope all this gives you more scope to look for what you want.

No I doubt it's the battery for this but as the car is new to James it's one of the many things it's best to check not too many sellers thoroughly check a vehicle when selling despite what some of them might say, plenty of threads and posts on here on that subject. If there's a second unused bulb on the other side and using it resolves the issue then after a sufficient period of use to confirm this do throw away the bulb taken out so you don't forget and reuse it elsewhere and perhaps have the same happen again. I can never understand why some people keep blown plug fuses and the like where you can't see they're blown particularly in with a stock of good plug fuses but some do.

So you repeatedly keep telling me over and over and over . . . Yet you agreed with the other sour complainant on here, when he was proved wrong about something else I put, when he wrote "right and wrong is for vicars and tarts", you seem to want it both ways or more accurately what suits you. As the other bitter and twister poster put - "Stick it up on Moneysupermarket then".

Hi, welcome. I've had a check a brake light and I could find nothing wrong but I might have change the bulb anyway (I forget)I and sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the socket and wire loom connectors, Then another time I noticed one of the (incandescent) daylight running lights was dimmer than the other then forgot about it as I rarely drive my wife's car, it took the car's computer a week to put up a warning by which time the bulb had gone the blackest I've ever seen a bulb so certainly there was some fault somewhere. The car's VW computer can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues if the car battery is too low for it, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning symbols or messages. This might not be the reason for your issue now but if the battery is low(ish), say below 12.2V/12.3V then fully recharge it just in case, an appropriate battery charger and maintainer is the best way to ensure the battery is fully charged (see 'Owner's Manual' for more details). My advice, for what it's worth, is If your battery is low then just charge it up fully and see if the message returns, if the battery is OK then change the bulb (and clean socket and connectors) as it might just be the vibrations from driving upsetting the bulb, many modern made bulbs are poorly made so replace it with a better made one if necessary. You may be able to see if the bulb is a factory fitted one if it has a date on it. You could also post in the Octavia MK3 forum to see if this is a common problem with the model or not. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Closing advice - don't let the car battery get too low for the computers or they will make you suffer and if you read and before even doing simple jobs, like changing a bulb, refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more about your model than many long term owners and some at garages and Dealerships. If you've not got a paper printed copy you can download a free VWSkoda pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some software updates perhaps from here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And perhaps any admitted (so few) Recall actions from here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH.

If you gave more detail about your car in your posts and/or nameplate then others could give more info on servicing, the engine type or better still code, the type of gearbox, perhaps trim level. In posts mileage, service history, recent work done, not done.

If it was a long slow discharge then a long slow recharge would be better, using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, 4-amp charger better than 6-amp and 1, 2 or 3amp better than 4-amp 5 weeks isn't a long time, don't bother with fuel injector cleaner just fill the tank with Tesco Momentum 99 for petrol or Shell V-Power Diesel for the cleaning additive packages. Check your air filter and air box and trunking and hoses to engine are clean and free of debris (perhaps same for cabin filter), change filter(s) if required. Once the battery is fully charged, with the engine running test all electric motors to full, heater flaps and blower, wipers, door windows (etc. if any). Go for an easy test run then if everything on the car is OK fill with tankful of fuel(s) mentioned, get the engine and whole car fully warmed up then go for a full blow out run of a reasonable distance using acceleration, gears, brakes, steering and suspension (good A or B roads, revs more than silly speeds). I recommend you fill with a couple tank fulls of the mentioned fuels before, during and after a service and/or MoT. A full service is for the whole car rather than just the engine and I've never seen one listed for a modern Skoda on here but it would include the obvious engine oil & oil filter change, sparkplugs, fuel filter as appropriate, and other stuff but important is checking brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), brake fluid and all safety important electrics. Much servicing, maintenance and repairs can boil down to clean and lubricate (engine oil & filter, filters even spark plug replacement, hinges and door and window seals - the tickbox list for a "full" service could be very long or as long as you want it or are prepared to pay, the VWSkoda Dealership lists cover the minimum requirements with sometimes some unnecessary extras throw in for revenue and profit.

You might be right that one has darker windows than the other but you can't really go on different photos from different cameras under different lighting conditions, one appears to possibly have a reflection of flash, the other photo, to me, looks a lot flatter possibly without flash.

I'd go for something like the AA (EAN: 5060114614550). You want them thick enough for load and not overlarge clips otherwise they can be difficult to get on some vehicles because of the space available on the battery post clamps. Just an example supplier. - https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7847998 Do follow the AA guide to using them to be sure. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/using-jump-leads If you have a "dead" battery then you will also want to fully recharge it with an appropriate sized battery changer and maintainer (lower amperage better than higher amperage but takes longer, time and patience required and often out of stock with many people). Check your 'Owner's Manual' for jumping the car and charging the battery. Really you should borrow some appropriate jump leads as you should never really need them again with proper preventative use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, if it's someone else that has let the battery go flat then make them pay for the leads (unless it's your life partner then say nothing!).

This is a VW engine not a Honda. Most of the time I hear different noises at different times from the engine bay of my wife's Mk3 Fabia, I think it's the evil VW computer programs carrying on their ways so I ignore them, and ignore the rattle/squeaks from somewhere up front and underneath, and ignore the possible exhaust heatshield rattle, possible tyres or wheel bearing noises, my wife's car is a VW car not Honda too. The noises that annoy me are things like the metal water bottle clanging against other bits in the car because it's unsecured - but it's not my car so I just secure it and say nothing. Turn the radio on and depress yourself with national or international events or go on to one of the music stations and hope for stuff loud enough to cover the car noises, then there's often too many adverts, you just can't win!

As changing gear oil is normally a very inexpensive and reasonably easy job to do it wouldn't hurt but you might be better if it's possible and worth the effort to try to clean and lubricate any bit of the gear linkage yo can just to easy things. Are you sure it's the gears and not anything to do with the clutch sticking. either way actually driving the car some distance a few times over a few days getting the engine, gearbox everything else on the car thoroughly warmed and and operating should help to loosen everything up again. Personally prior to testing and use I'd lubricate anything I can, with GT85 as it's also a good penetrating/releasing fluid as well as lubricant that contain PTFE and works well on a wide range of materials and uses, and then operate what has just been lubricated a good number of times to work it in and work the item. Anything with an electric motor, like wiper and door windows I would have the engine running whilst operating to ensure full power and speed. You could also use the GT85 to lubricate the rubber side window strips that the door glass runs against when raising and lowering to also help. I'm not surprised about the battery or brakes but am about the gears (unless it's clutch) in only 5 months but we don't know any other history of the car and winters now tend to be milder and damper so condensation seems to be more prevalent in my experience where I am in the middle of the country.

That is good news but bear in mind not all accidents and repairs are reported so you still need to look at the vehicle in the metal to check for accident damage and repair and it could possibly be or involve very minor stuff like previously broken or missing trim.