nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Check your car battery's voltage at the battery posts, without the engine running, a couple of hours after the car has been parked up, if it's much below about 12.3V then fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) a lower amperage charger will take longer but do better, 4-amps over 6 and 2-amps over 4 but the recharging could take overnight, a day, or more, time and patience will be rewarded. Your battery charge can still be too low for the computers even if your car starts and the lights seem fine and often just driving the car won't charge the battery enough let alone fully and might even drain the battery more, with a full recharge with an appropriate charger (and maintainer) you can be more certain.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You could first have a look at the Owner's Manual. If you read the Owner's Manual you'll know more about using your particular model than most other owners and many at garages and Dealerships. Digital version of 'Owner's Manual' from here, VIN or (part) year of manufacture to get the correct one. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you pressing or holding the button? The instruction is different from how it used to be, now it has to "hold" the button. Digital version of 'Owner's Manual' from here, VIN or (part) year of manufacture to get the correct one. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you can claim on warranty then do that, a new EFB replacement will still be good. The next battery should last (a lot) longer because you will have the knowledge to look after it more (without much effort) and the next battery you can give a much better early life to which will extended its overall life and performance during its life. When the battery is allowed to go too low it never fully recovers and the more often it goes too low the shorter its life and performance. Just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it doesn't mean that the battery isn't too low which will upset the computers and cause all sorts of unexpected issues even before any warning lights or messages. Just driving the car often won't recharge the battery fully or enough and may actually reduce the charge depending on the journey and electric consumption. The answer can often be to recharge the battery using an appropriate battery charger (& maintainer) and prevention is better than cure, recharge before the battery gets too low. You could probably get more life out of your existing battery but if you can get a new battery under warranty that would be better as possibly (probably?) your car's battery was left to deteriorate when it was new and has never fully recovered from that. A 2019 car I'd guess is full of marvellous gadgets which are electric hungry and if they only use a little if it's over a long time the consumption can be high. Just one example, and with a warning, from a 2015 Fabia Owner's Manual below, I'd imagine there's a lot more info and advice and warnings in a copy of the 2019 Scala Owner's Manual. If you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your model than many long term owners. Link to PDF copies of the Owner's Manual, using VIN or manufacture part year. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Link to Recalls (VW might have admitted to) perhaps there might be one on batteries (there was for my wife's 2015 Fabia). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've just had a thought (a rare event) when you press the remote's middle button (with car/boot symbol) this unlocks the boot but if you press and hold that button it unlocks and opens the hatch door, depending on which of the two you are doing this could help perhaps with your diagnosis by trying the other (if you've not already done so). The following excerpts from the Owner's Manual ("Operating Instructions") from my wife's car. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you fitted the new switch you have some tools at least, plus your senses, eyes, ears, nose, if the diagnostic tool is a good scanner that'd be better than just an error code reader but with either it'd be worth plugging them in to see what can be found. Only last week my neighbour couldn't open the boot of the car and that was just a bag handle trapped between the latch catch, soon sorted with a visual investigation and (feeble) muscle power.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. So, if I've understood, the problem is with unlocking rather than opening the boot. Could be mechanical, electrical or computer so usual tools plus multimeter and diagnostic scan tool - what have you looked at and done other than replacing the switch? What locking setting do you have through the Infotainment menu? Hatch or estate? Trim level (S, SE, SE-L(?), other)?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Sorry I'm lost with what you've put. Do you mean that when you press the (bottom) unlock button on the remote the doors all unlock but not the boot? Do you mean you have to press the middle button (with car/boot symbol) on the remote to open the boot? Have you had the car from new so know if any settings have been altered with a scan tool? What tests did you do to lead you to change the switch?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Shame as you put in the effort and got so far. Zooming in on the photos the female socket looks to be without any crud at least (getting that disconnected would be a struggle for me. From the photos it's difficult to know if a torx screwdriver or t-bar or Allen key would get to the switch screw best from above or underneath. Did you have to reset anything other than the time of day after removing the battery? I'd pre-spray the switch and screw with GT85 (better than WD-40 Multi-Use) to help easy removal and also use the GT85 to flush and clean the connector plug and socket after visual inspection. - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/ The garage might plug in the scan tool to find the fault, let us know how you get on, it'd be a bit disappointing if the switch only lasted 7 years.

I wouldn't know, a separate thread for that might be better, a good visual inspection may be all that's required for belts but check with your model and engine type perhaps the belts are OK but tensioners or pump may need checking on your model. Warrior193 beat me to it, as well as engine air filter I'd also change the cabin filter as it might be holding damp (water?) which will affect the rest of the cabin and smell, at best. It depends on if and how often the engine has been started and car moved at anytime (not that just starting the engine is good) and where it was parked/stored over the three years as to how much might need doing, my wife's car is used almost everyday but being parked outside it has moss on the window drop seals and if always parked pointing the same way more rust on one side than the other.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Jon, check to see if the wiring and bulb holder goes to the RHS and if it does try just putting a bulb in. Cars used to have two reversing lights and two rear fog lights I think Mercs were the first lot I can remember seeing with the lenses both sides but light to only one side, can't remember if the wiring and bulb holder(s) are there though I can't think why if the wiring and holder are on both sides that you'd need programing but who knows with VW's computer programs. The rear lights are a fiddling and farting about job and the wire tails are just short enough to give you hope but mess you around.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You may already know but in case not, don't rely on the TPMS for tyre pressure, check yourself with an accurate/consistent pressure gauge, by the time the computer program warns you you may already be well aware of tyre pressure loss, also check the Owner's Manual for what else can cause the warning.

Easy to find out, try just one then two alternating back to one, then two and see which you think is best, one or two. It the knurled section at the end, which provides finger grip, that might scratch, if you have facilities to cut that off and perhaps cut a any socket head or external square or hex or drill a hole through for a small round bar (or screwdriver shaft). Don't to forget to check all your tyres, sidewalls and treads, brake fluid for wet, air filter as you can get a lot of debris in a static uncovered vehicle.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I can't remember are all manuals 5-speed for these years, anyway looks like I might be wrong (again), the switch might be accessible from the top, see if this video corresponds with your car, my wife's car's not available at the moment to check. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC_G-ViY1bw

Sorry I misunderstood I thought you'd bought them in singles. It's as much the balance as the weight of the (oversized) wheels and tyres and how deep or shallow the centre hub flange(?), very shallow and easy to slip off on my wife's Fabia MK3. Replacing the wheel with the car on the ground, so the tyre is perhaps less than an inch off the ground is probably more difficult than when the car is in the air on a lift and the wheel at chest height and eyes more in line with stupid shallow hub centre and stupid five holes instead of studs. IIRC the locating studs we got were about 4" long, I can't think why that'd be too long. Originally I only had one and I found that gave a pendulum effect when trying to line up with the stupid shallow centre hub and other four stupid holes, so I bought a second locating stud. The one I bought was cheap and probably from China as probably the one I was gifted but the one I was gifted was a better finish to the machining, if I was worried about scratching the bolt holes I'd not use the cheap one I bought. The tyre pressure warning on my wife's Fabia Mk3 is next to useless, by the time it indicated a problem she already well knew there was one.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Instead of WD-40 Multi-Use get a can of GT85 does all that the WD-40 does but better and longer lasting and smells nice, finishes drier and less sticky than grease. - https://gt85.co.uk/ " . . . nothing on God's green Earth that this product cannot do . . . " - - - https://www.youtube.com/embed/CatS9OnKh38?start=173&end=223

Are those separate items or combined like my neighbour's RSC 612 12A SmartCharge with Battery Analyser Up to 5.0L. A lot less strain if the wheels had 3, 4 or 5 studs instead of bolts! 😠

Take it from me and my bad back have and use those tools in sets of two on the wheel change.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Never rely too much on fault codes or the absence of fault codes. I might be wrong but I think the bleep relates to the rear parking sensors and again I might be wrong but I think it only takes one sensor to have a fault (or be disconnected) to stop the system. Do the reversing lights light up when reverse is selected as I would have thought, but might be wrong, that would indicate if the reversing light switch is working. Which gearbox do you have? I don't know but think it unlikely you'd be able to get at the reversing switch from above but I could be wrong. I've just had a look, if you lay on the ground you can look up and with a torch see the connectors and wiring to the three rear sensors (funny as I thought there were four).

It's the use of two that's important, after the VW "%$£&*^ wheel bolts done my back in a mate bought me a locator stud but then with an iffy back I found putting the wheel on one locating stud and the very shallow and thin hub centre was still a balancing act so I bought and use a second locating stud, which is better but still not as good as three, four or five wheel studs!! (telescopic - that's the word I couldn't think of)

Nothing special, just what I'd expect in my mind and other cheap DIY stuff (like Ring Automotive chargers/testers). The mate who bought it for me asked to compare it against to his two cheap multimeters and a slightly less cheap third he'd just bought and that registered lower than the other two. My Martindale was close to his first two but all three were slightly different and all three above his latest purchase so he sent it back. As long as I stick to it and any inaccuracies are consistent it doesn't matter for the very, very little I use it, mainly batteries car and others.

@Warrior193 do you know if the multimeter I was bought as a present is any good, I think it seems to give slightly optimistic readings. - https://martindale-electric.co.uk/product/mm39-standard-digital-multimeter-auto-ranging/

See the post below and the following posts, as far as I can see the RSC806 is the same size case as your 808, it's not designed to be put inside the engine bay with the bonnet closed, see my previously posted photo and the video I posted. Click on the "Dodgy Electrics" ("26 January") here. -

Yeap as I put before I think it's a good idea to give it a go as an exercise of learning. You will need to put the battery on your RAC on the 2-amp setting for a number of hours before the Ring might accept the work and check the RAC isn't getting to warm or the battery warm, if so stop and give up. You'd need to keep an eye on the battery and charger. Formerly before recharging you'd check and top up if required the electrolyte (distilled/de-ionised water) and if any of the plates in the cells looked buckled or too "furred up" you'd give up but now many batteries are properly sealed. If they're not fully sealed you can just remove the sticky label and prise off the cover(s) - but always beware of the hazards with batteries. - https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/health-safety/ If you get a multimeter you can confirm for me if the Ring needs 10.7V to start charging a 12V battery as I've taken this figure from the Lidl cheap charger Batteries I've revived that haven't been used back on the vehicle, or not suitable, or reliable, or enough life, have been used to power other 12V items like garage radio or lighting, small tools. I was think of taking it to a 'scrappy' where I assume they reclaim materials or pass them on for others to do, I never looked in to it. As I put I don't think you need a larger battery as you have the "smart" charger to use and would still be using it on a larger battery but perhaps slightly less often but also the Ring is a maintainer so can be left on to keep the battery topped up. I'd not keep the battery maintainer on without end as the battery is designed for discharge and charge, best by use of the car plus charging if/when required. Keeping to the same size battery would also save the time, hassle and expense of getting another jacket. The original battery size would have allowed for winter CCA and bear in mind these cars (generally) go to colder places than the UK. If you saw some of the threads on this site where a low battery continues to be used for many months with a bit of difficulty starting you'd not worry as you are going to be recharging the battery with the Ring when required. Also don't put too much into just figures like CCA, these figures are for the battery when new and some batteries will lose performance and age more and sooner than others, there's also different systems of measurement for these figure (but that's another subject) and you have to check the figure on the battery itself as databases and adverts can have errors or out of date. If you're 'coding' the battery you can change the Ah (and type of battery and what VW have as "serial number") so the Ah can be different but if you aren't 'coding' then best to stick to same Ah, I've no idea if a slight difference in Ah would make much odds. If you change the type of battery fitted then you do need to 'code' otherwise gawd knows what punishment VW have set up. See below, this is what was done for me by a member of the site using OBDEleven system. Note the VWSkoda factory didn't bother putting in a battery code, others have had the same. I think much of the information is just for VW statistics, check how long the batteries last and try to avoid claims when there's a **** up their end. My wife's car was part of a battery recall but was just checked, however when I changed the battery it might have been more expensive at the time because of a battery shortage as I believe VW were having to replace batteries on recall or warranty, I don't know the details but I've just checked now and the same battery is at a lower price than when I bought it. Ask for a print out to check they have coded it correctly, on another thread an auto-electrician put in 7Ah instead of 70Ah and the new battery was in trouble after only about a year. Very bad programing IMO that would allow such a thing there should be a range of acceptable figures for the 'coding' to accept, I expect the programmers formerly worked for banks or credit companies. Yes good thing too, why bother if the factory didn't. Good luck let us know how you get on. I'd be interested if you try to revive the old battery, if possible. I saw a chap with a broken down 2009 XJ Jag when I was walking down to my wife's Fabia at her work with my multimeter and my neighbour's scan tool (another VW fault but we won't go into that) he'd had the recovery man out to tell him his XJ alternator was had it and he'd totally flattened the battery by having the heated seats on at 5 am whilst struggling to start the car and it had stopped on a busy road after. I checked the battery with my multimeter and the reading was so low that I checked my multimeter was registering right against a brand new button battery I had to take out of the packaging, his car battery showed on the multimeter 0.45V, I asked him to tell me the reading to make sure I was seeing right. (ETA: It was cold at the time which is not good for electronics).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. When we couldn't sort out a washer jet for a neighbour's 2008 Kia and he had to order a new one to my surprise they were a different jet driver's to passenger's side, I forget now pattern and pressure but the part numbers were different. ETA: N' ptun is north of the south and south of the north, not soft (southern?) water but not over hard (northern) water.