nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Has been know for Dealerships to shuffle round such things as Owner's Manuals, they had to take one out of another car when I insisted on a paper printed copy for my wife's car. Try putting your VIN in the following link and see which version it gives you and if it ties up with the printed paper one you have, the version is printed on the last page(s) something like "Fabia anglicky 11.2017". - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models My wife's Owner's Manual had it's title as "Operating Instructions".

@John2022 great information, good on you for going to such sources. The battery manufacturers do vary a little with their information and advice so one consensus source like yours is good (but don't necessarily believe that 11.9V (totally) knackered) . Trying to add to your info and not diminish it as you can only have general advice because there are so many variables with the vehicle use so I'm not knocking you at all, you can take or leave my notes, they're just my notes - - the volts to % can be about 0.1V variance - 11.9V in reality is nowhere near knackered, might be weakened, even the Ring "smart" would probably start charging a battery at 10.7V (as an example, it doesn't state), see my earlier post (7 hrs back now) - in summer if it's 30c weather then the battery itself discharges twice as much as at 20c and at 40c (as last summer) then the self-discharge is twice as much as 30c, so the battery is weaken for it's late-autumn and winter use Just for info and to show variance, not that it matters generally, figures from my neighbour's Ring RSC612 battery charger/tester. - 12.7v - 100% - 12.5v - 90% - 12.4v - 80% - 12.3V - 70% - 12.2v - 60% - 12.1v - 50% - 11.9v - 40% - 11.8v - 30% - 11.6v - 20% - 11.3v - 10% And VW figures. - Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V I've seen 12.9V put as 6 x 2.15V but I'd go with whatever figure any particular charger uses for 100% charge, the Ring RSC804 (808) doesn't give any so it makes things easier. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I can't one finger type fast enough. I was still typing my last post before I saw your (cado) last post. cado hopefully my previous post will cover some of your points, to cover the others - as has been put by Warrior193, and me in an earlier post, the modern Ring "smart" charger alone will not get your existing battery back but using the RAC on 2-amp setting to lift it for the Ring to start and then alternating their use ending with the Ring may recover the battery for other use permeant fixing would require a little bit of sorting if you can't leave the bonnet up, if you have a garage different to if you don't when the new battery arrives you connect the Ring charger it will show the new battery's voltage, then you select 12V car and leave the Ring to do it's work, when it reaches full it will show "FUL", how long, er less than an hour or less than two it depends on how easy and convenient it is for you to connect up the Ring but if it's easy I would use that to give a reading of the battery voltage instead of a cheap multimeter - check after the car has been parked up for a few hours (or 12-24 hours after recharging with the Ring) I would use the Ring charger to charge the battery if it showed the battery to be 12.2V or 12.3V so just a little more cautious than Warrior193 (but this is a "do as I say and not as I do" because despite how it seems I rarely bother checking the battery as I never really had to before my wife got this VW computer programs. Do ensure you read the Yeti's Owner's Manual about disconnecting and changing the battery and possible resets after reconnecting the new battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As has been put your existing battery would probably be far too far gone now for any recharge and use let alone on your Yeti but it still has recycle value (£8?). I expect you already know that if you are getting a bigger EFB battery size that you need to check that the bigger battery will fit the thin insulation jacket (box?), fit on the shelf and hold down clamp and that the Ah rating is the same for the VW computer program(s). If you're not going to add any high-use electric extras to your Yeti or sit for long periods without the engine running but using electric items then I'd not bother getting a bigger sized battery unless the existing size is more expensive (because it's a less common size) because you'll still need to use your RSC 808 whichever battery you fit. It's not just if the battery starts the car, with the VW start/stop system and it computer programs, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there aren't yet any warning lights or messages the battery could still be too low for the computer and they will throw up all sorts of unexpected issues. The Ring RSC808 is a bigger version of the RSC804 you see being used in that photo of my wife's Fabia, the RSC808 still charges a (nominal) 12V battery at maximum of 4 amps which I think is good. Any difficulties with it just ask, someone I know found the pictorials lacking and hard to follow. Two things that aren't made clear in the brief instructions are that you use the winter setting when the ambient temperature is below (+) 5c, well that's what's on a previous Ring charger and second the ER 2 I take to mean the wrong battery voltage has been selected (6, 12, 24) or that the battery is too low or sulphated for this modern "smart" charger. I bought my 804 after seeing the 808 review on a YouTube channel I follow, it's a fair review and good for how to use the charger. Note when you first turn on the electric mains supply the charger tell you what is in your battery but bear in mind this reading is best taken a couple of hours after you have parked the car up (or 12-24 hours after the battery has come off a battery charger). I get confused with the terminology and it doesn't seem fixed anyway, just follow what you have with the RSC808 and let it do it's stuff. Yes you could use your RAC but it's not as convenient as a modern "smart" charger. I'd never use it on fast charge at 15 amps (check your Yeti's Owner's Manual) and certainly not on a very flat battery as it'd probably kill the battery whereas the 2 amp ("trickle") charge may well revive many very flat batteries but take a long time, much longer than many would want to wait. Yes you're right you shouldn't need to use it on your new battery if you use the Ring. Again check your Yeti's Owner's Manual (can you see another theme here) about disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery and any resets that may (but not always) be required, it's nothing to worry about and more likely to do more good than harm ("try turnin' it off 'n' on agen"). For charging the battery or jump starting check your Yeti's Owner's Manual - honestly if you read and refer to the Owner's Manual when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners. The charger's negative goes to the engine earth as shown in Urrell's earlier post. I started putting " Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything." because my troll said my posts were too authoritative to my level of knowledge, and IIRC a Yeti owner agreed because I wouldn't accept that a car's alternator was all that was usually required and a battery charger wasn't, - so if you want I can give you the benefit of my experience if you want to just as an experiment (not for use on the Yeti) and to boost your confidence with the car battery, to find out if or how much you might be able to revive your existing battery I can guide you through the 'Messages' system on this site.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd prefer the use of GT85 as it's not harmful to paint, has a propellant so nor reliant on gravity, drives out water and has a nice smell. https://www.youtube.com/embed/CatS9OnKh38?start=173&end=223

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Some useful videos - but if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many other long term owners.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Generally not good, do check the battery and probably best to give it a FULL recharge with an appropriate battery charger as you can get all sorts of unexpected issues from the battery being low even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough and you have yet to see any warning lights or messages. Do consult the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. If you don't have the paper printed version, or want an electronic version, you can download a PDF version from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Also you can check for any Recalls VW have put out here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns And to complete the set system updates here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Noises are difficult to explain, understand and track down, perhaps if you can do a video/audio of the noise. We have a rattle I think from an exhaust heatsheild under the car, perhaps that might be your issue. Whatever it is you want it investigating ASAP as 6-months warranty soon disappears. 30k-miles in 5-6 years is neither good nor bad as it depends on the type of mileage done, the service, maintenance and repairs done and how the car was driven - do you have any firm evidence of service, maintenance and repairs history at all? To help in future you could add your details to your name plate (I've no idea what it's called) at the side of your posts, for example as I have.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. One rule - check the instructions for the car (Owner's Manual) and the instructions for the charger. 1) Yes but it will take longer and you don't want to use a fast charger and your RAC might be too heavy duty, to comply with the Owner's Handbook a 70Ah battery will want a 7-amp charger but you could use an 8-amp, much better I've found is to use a 4-amp charger or 2-amp but very few people have the time and patience to use the lower amp chargers. ETA: Note what Warrior193 put about keeping an eye on using a "dumb" charger. - "1 - Yes, but I would not recommend 'Dumb' charger - if no other option, monitor battery carefully and do not leave charging unattended." Better to disconnect the battery from the car for charging or sometimes better still, especially if using a "dumb" charger, to remove the battery from the car and move it to a more stable environment, battery likes (+) 5C to 20C ambient temperature. I've just recharged my neighbour's very flat (standard battery) at (two point seven volts) 2.7V from his "classic" car, removed from the car for convenience. 2.7V is far, far too low for the modern "smart" 4-amp charger to start from so I used my 30+ year old 4-amp "dumb" charger and 20+ year old 4-stage 1.2-amp charger. It took 70+ hours to get it fully charged. A week after the charge, sitting in the shed it still shows as 12.8V, checked on two testers. Partially charged another neighbour's battery on the 2011 BMW still fitted to the car in the boot, no choice as he'd busted some bracket. 3.4V (three point four volts). 24 hours later using the modern "smart" charger and 30+ year old 4-amp "dumb" charger the battery wasn't fully charged but it the car had to go to it's new home, I've no idea how long that battery will hold its charge. 2) As above. 3) As above, but it depends on how "dead" or flat the battery is. Avoid fast charging. A battery is flat at 11.7V modern "smart" chargers may not try to charge a battery below 10.7V or some at below 6V or others at below 3V - read the instructions or specifications to find out which do what. Keep your old charger, find out what amperage charger it is (label on the back) but also buy a 4-amp modern "smart" charger and maintainer that also covers EFB, AGM, Lidl had some for £15, the Ring RSC804 charger and maintainer I bought was £23.49 or I think C-Tek are(?) £50-£70. I'd recommend you don't let your battery get low, best not to go below about 12.3V (allow for inaccuracies if using a cheap multimeter) and I would always charge to 100% / "Full" on the charger, if charging on, or off, the car check the instructions for the car (Owner's Manual) and the instructions for the charger. For jump starting, particularly off another vehicle, check the instructions for the car (Owner's Manual) getting it wrong could bring a lot of tears. 😭

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Last thread I saw with something like this is was some like the connector or wires to a rear sensor, always working checking such things as a no cost item, perhaps wiring/connection at the gearbox(?). What type of gearbox is it as that might make a difference. With electrics it's often wires and/or connectors, then perhaps the actual units but of course there's also the computers and their programs also on modern cars, so on to scan tools. You can listen if the rear sensors are working - "confirmed by switching the ignition (but not the engine) on and putting my ear against each sensor in turn. You should be able to hear a faint clicking sound a few times per second from all 4 of the sensors." Don't know if this might help you. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499513-parking-sensors-not-working/#comment-5646491 See also 'Similar Content' at bottom of this page. Hopefully someone will be along that know something about your issue. Full marks for looking at the Owner's Manual.

Andy, if you want to, it might help with posts if you put more car details and location on your name plate thingy, as in -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've had to do it but it's not a good idea and potential for accident/injury. I'd also prefer the extendable wheel nut wrench. Previously extend to undo and retracted to do up but now at 88ft lb I might need to nip up extended. Such a laugh to watch a tyre place use a torque wrench after a 200-300 air rattle gun. Having put that for 30+ years I generally didn't always carry a/the spare wheel, jack and brace - but that's another discussion/debate. 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You've done it now you've mentioned the bloody silly VW bolts, instead of wheel studs, that gave me Sciatica which apart from totally p1ssing me off also reminds me to recommend the use of TWO Fitting Removal Alignment Tools instead of trying to balance the wheel on the *!&£%^"$ stupid centre ring. Two of these should be in the car's tool kit. - The VW wheel bolt system is literally a PITA to me. 🙃 I can laugh about it at the moment but not always for the first half to hour after getting out of bed many mornings.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife's 2015 gets this, started fairly recently but was a squeak before this. I've yet to investigate - but it better not be the front damper (or road spring) as the front dampers were a distress (and extremely annoying) purchase and replacement two MoTs back. Very disappointing to find the VW front dampers are so short-lived and the replacements were "misting" at less than a year old and considered an MoT failure at the independent garage - yet weren't even an MoT Advisory at the Dealership that fitted them. I think the croak to be more likely to be an engine or transmission based on when the squeak was - but of course it might be two, or more, different things causing a croak that now covers a squeak(s). If there's nothing obvious to see what I will do to try locate the source of the croak is spray some GT85 on one bush at a time and drive the car over some humps and see if the noise differs (or disappears). If it stops I'll see how long before it returns and decided from there. German engineering quality. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Different nuts can be required if a spare steel wheel is carried on some "classics" cars that have alloy (often Minilite copies) fitted. As we well know the German car manufacturers can have some 'rare' ideas, years ago a chap from one of the breakdown services told me about a Porsche two-seater model where it had a space-saver wheel but then there was no room for the full-sized wheel to be carried. Like you I'm only going on what I was told.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I went off on a tangent I was thinking of the design of the car having 14" wheels all round on the car not just as a spare but of course if some bigger sized brakes are on then not with those, the idea of the wheel size being to support the weight of the car and clear the brakes, allowing for cooling. I'll edit the post. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No certainly not and many might be very happy with them, just if you're aware of it you can give it the consideration you want to if you want to, before buying the car or specifying the make up of a new car or swapping smaller wheels for larger wheels (to fill the wheel arch more). Just about all vehicles are a fashion decision to a greater or lesser extent. If you only know of oversized wheels then they don't seem oversized and you accept them and perhaps go for bigger must be better and keep up with Audi-Jones and think very low-profile tyres with their problems are just low profile tyres and accept the issues. But it's all pretty insignificant in the general overall vehicle ownership. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Below, direct link to post* and its pdf. ETA: click on the top part of link below, with the circled A and 15 May, 2020 or - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426096-error-service-leave-vehicle-only-when-selector-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5399919 RCRIT-19V615-0044 (1).pdf HTH

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Andy, just to let you know the link is missing from your post.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes it is quite correct not to believe all you read on forums but unfortunately it's very true not to always believe all that you are told by the motor trade. It's perfectly possible to have faults without fault codes, I can understand that a garage will want to confirm what the fault actually is but they should also take into account any information you give them and it appears to be a known problem to them if other customers have reported the same message to them. Have a look at this thread particularly the following posts on this thread.- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505730-weird-error-message-only-leave-vehicle-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5683796 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505730-weird-error-message-only-leave-vehicle-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5685526 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505730-weird-error-message-only-leave-vehicle-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5678753 HTH

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Whichever different sized spare wheel and tyre is chosen it should be used with caution with the three other full-sized wheels and tyres, a get you home or to the garage or tyre place only, below 50 mph - though I'd not got that fast (or carry or use a space-saver type but that's another contentious personal view of mine. 😁 ETA: my wife's 1.2 TSI (90) runs on four 185/60r15 factory sized tyres.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @toot we agree on most things but the fashion for oversized wheels and tyres and we drift apart. 😄 It's different strokes for different folks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Click on the 'Tyre Comparison' tab and you can enter the tyres size fitted to your car (as 'Size 1') and then enter a second tyre size to see differences. Very silly oversized imo 215/40 r17 tyre (and wheel) is just about spot on the same turning size as a 185/60 r15 (and nearer than the 195/55 r15 is). ETA: Not as a spare wheel for this car but generally subject to brake size. A 14" wheel would be fine on a Fabia but the fashion for decades has been to have a lot higher and wider wheels than required and with with lower profile tyres than required and now many owners are finding on our third-world roads that dropping a size can give practical benefits whilst retaining some fashion appeal.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No harm in topping up the battery each weekend if required, and if it takes 4-5 hours then it was needed. I've found some "smart" chargers can more fully charge than others well at least on a battery that is very, very low (or "dead" to many). General advice seems to be to not let the battery get below 12.3V (at the battery posts a few hours after parked up and allow for variance if using a very cheap multimeter) though Banner Batteries put it at 12.5V. If the charger goes into maintain / float after full you don't need to worry about it and you might as well leave it connected for as long as possible or reasonable. Be interesting to see how many more years you get out of the battery (you can never fully recover early injury(ies)), VWSkoda want us to renew at 5 years, but then many won't even get that far. Good luck and all the best.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ? I'm confused, this is - General SKODA Forum - General Maintenance, not Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry you've lost me there, is your Owner's Manual dated 05.2017 or 11.2017, which page number tells you to take it to the Dealer so that I can get a clearer idea of what you mean rather than what I think you mean. You will also need to give more details about your vehicle (manual or auto), I was thinking you wanted to lock the car from inside by pressing the central locking button on the dash.