nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeap, I used to change my tyres in sets of four, if after a thousand miles I didn't like them I'd replace that set, no point having a performance vehicle with tyres you don't like and don't all perform as they should as a set - but those days are long gone.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Uhmm, either something is off with the throttle body, perhaps physically, or it really does need a reset but I thought by driving enough it would reset. There could other problem(s) / issues(s). Have you had a look to see if something has been left off or come off, not connected fully, anything broke or damaged - an air hose, pipe or connector leaking, electric wires damaged, scuffed or pinched, electric connector. Air intake and filter installed and set correctly. How do you feel about taking the car back to the mechanic and say what has happened, we can all make mistakes and it might be something very simple. You might be better starting a thread in the Felicia section as a couple of chaps from Greece are very knowledgeable on the cars and IIRC one done a video on cleaning the throttle body (but don't rely on my memory). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @MicMac sorry but it's not the way I am. If you don't like it don't be distracted by it scroll on by or put me on your 'Ignore list' which I think means you then don't see my posts or you could 'Report' me or my posts or get together with others and get me booted off the site. I hope this post was succinct enough for you.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good news Steve. Keep an eye on your battery when required fully recharge it with your battery charger (a lot) sooner rather than later the battery could last a few years more perhaps. If you recharge the battery sooner it won't take as long to get to full recharge but stick with the long low slow recharge as that's usually more effective. You can't affect the past but you can the present and future. If you take a VW product like a (modern) Skoda to a garage with a few warning lights and messages on and testing the battery isn't among their initial assessments then they don't know the marque or are looking for more work than is perhaps necessary.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If your shed gets as cold as my shed gets then you might need to bring the bottle or can into the warm for a while before shaking well before use. Yeah it was funny, more ironic when you know it comes from my stalking troll, it did made me smile though.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you know if it's in the Owner's Manual for this model? I try to get owners reading the Owner's Manuals but the ones I've seen for the VWSkodas do seem to have a good few flaws, including the one for my wife's car, and the fuse locations as previously mentioned.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Up to you if you want to help others to help you. Give more information, a photo or just say which type of heater or air-con you have in the car, there might be a flap reset for the automatic versions, or you could do a search for repair or bodging of the flaps. If you add more of the car's details (1.6tdi CAYC and perhaps gearbox, trim level) to your name plate it would also help and save you repeating this info too often, see below.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That is often not correct with many modern GL5, check the Fuchs datasheet it will say if it is safe with yellow metals, or contact them.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Meant to ask before, anything plugged into a 12v socket that perhaps turns itself on and off?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Gummi Pflege is just German for rubber care, it was something for VW fans would use until they found a more expensive alternative. For door seals and such I use AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel when finances allow or you can use silicone oil or even spray but some say the paint doesn't like silicone so you could go to my old standby of GT85 as its PTFE instead. I don't bother cleaning first anymore as I'm too lazy and not that bothered. Apply gel or oil, or even spray, with a 35mm cube of clean old sponge. The GT85 can also be sprayed on the hinges, locks, used as a releasing/penetrating fluid anything that WD-40 isn't as good at. At great personal risk I mentioned the 35mm cube so I might as well put up the photo of the can of GT85 I'm living dangerously today.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you post up your version of below we can see if there's anything obvious to the naked eye.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This concept can be very hard for some to accept. Do yourself a favour, just in case, charge the battery FULLY with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, often just just driving the car to charge it is nowhere near enough. A battery in a good state of charge will help with diagnosis whereas a battery in low state of charge can hinder and even prevent diagnosis. As the battery gets less demand on it and picks up a little some things caused by the previously too low state of charge can go away, they can return when the battery gets too low for them again. If the battery is too low in state of charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, then the computer programs can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues and getting the battery back to a better state of charge will take those issues away. Obviously if there is any sort of problem with the car or use of the car then the same issues, and perhaps more, will return when the battery's state of charge gets too low again. For the battery drain, I often think of the users (people) before the consumers (electric items on the car), cos I'm old and know how wasteful some are with electric, even on a car, with "well that doesn't use a lot does it", put a coin slot meter on and they'd often soon find out. :grumpyoldgit:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hopefully you shouldn't need to top up the battery every weekend but it does depend on your driving and battery electric consumption and how much the battery has already had the a*rse kicked out of it. I've put a hyperlink to one of his videos before, he's very good considering he's from USA which often seems to be on a different planet to the rest of us on planet Earth but ignore the Optima battery and bear in mind if you change to an AGM battery VW call it "Fleece" for 'coding'. With my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 the only thing that needed resetting/synchronising after battery disconnect was the time of day clock but I've no idea about later cars. I've no idea about OBDEleven or VCDS but not being into maths or computer programing I find what I've seen of the VCDS to be very "legacy" historic type of ugly system presentation but I don't know it might be much better for overall more in depth use and more accurate in programing than others but just for telling the VW computers you've changed the battery so as not to upset them or need to give a sacrificial offering I don't know. The German marques particularly seem to love to make things very awkward so you are under their command, which other systems are allowed to carry out the menial task of battery replacement 'coding' I've not investigated but other systems can do it. I've not - now be sitting down for this and have a hanky to dab your eyes - got a "smart" phone or devices (I know I'm a caveman, but the mobile phones of the 1980s ****ed me off enough with their lack of reception that we're been back to for a while now) so I've no idea of the details but I've seen others mention that VCDS Lite(?) does a lot and you can have it on a "smart" (awwl, the irony) phone for reasonable cost. You'd get better information and a much less biased view than mine from going to, and perhaps posting in, the following. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ I usually agree with varooom but not about getting a jump pack, to me that's like as some say "preparing to failing", coming from the old farts with old over-priced cars called "classic" that some have a car full of 'just-in-case' spare parts I'm all for prevention over cure, don't let your battery get that bad, charge or change before then. See how you feel after the next proper drive or two. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for your reply, sorry I didn't make myself clear as usual, I wasn't thinking of the brand but if the number of characters, 5 instead of 3, made any odds to the adaption(?)/program/field(?) space(?) and it working correctly after? I've not seen anything about computer programming since a bit of Babbage history in the 1980s - all of which I've forgot and some of which wouldn't be too relevant now.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well we all make mistakes in reading and writing, even the best of you. 😊 I think I'll bow to your superiority, that should please you, your need to be right is greater than mine on this occasion but who knows in the future. May your grease pot go with you. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. All seems a bit odd but nothing you can sort now and if it's working with such an easy 'repair' that at least is good.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @varooom do you think 'BOSCH' instead of something like JCB would prevent the computer program from knowing a new battery of different type has been fitted?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: This was all one-finger typed before varooom posted. As you've found as with other models the Owner's Manual hasn't been clear about the fuse locations and with the possibility of more than one fuse and/or location for the particular system but don't think, but don't know, that there's more than one fuse for the alarm (horn). ETA: This was one-finger typed before varooom posted. Below is when a local site member helped me by 'coding' the battery on my wife's car with OBDEleven, the start of my fuller understanding of the 'joys' of VW's computer programing. So far there doesn't seem to be any effects of the word 'BOSCH' instead of the VW three letter code for the battery manufacturer but who knows if it's VW programing requirements or VW statistics requirement.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If there's no disadvantage then why bother messing about with messy grease, if anyone wants to then fine, whatever floats yer boat.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best I say I was thinking more of good form and practice. Do see some murder-tight and pinched posts but it's no big thing, anyone who wants to can tighten as much as they want. I prefer things are not overtight to me as I have weak wrists. ETA: Thinking about it I'll remove it, without giving more details, if and buts it's all like going into don't swallowing the socket or spanner.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You seem to dislike the VW computer programs even more than me, that's going some. I'm not a VW fan or believed in German engineer quality on cars being that great this century. My stock answer to just about anything on the car is to keep the battery in a good state of charge because if it gets too low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough you can still get lots of unexpected issues. Some issues with warning lights and messages but some issues perhaps before these warnings. This because the VW computers and their programs don't like low battery charge. You are not just dealing with HAL900 but a group of them. Skoda, SEAT, VW, Audi, are all VW/VAG with lots of the same sort of stuff and parts so lots of similarities to them so the garage should have some idea of what they're doing. Normally it's the driver that lets the battery get in a state of low charge with use, abuse, neglect and mistake(s) - but it can be the car's charging system or eclectics or computer programs perhaps. Hopefully now you see that is a mistake. This will probably be part of your "battery" problem. Yeap the computer program parameter is too wide so don't rely on it and carry on looking after the car. Part of looking after the car is to read and refer to the Owner's Manual, if you do so you will know more about your car than many long term owners - and sorry to say - but - I am going to anyway prevented many of the issues you've had, you probably know RtFM. Get an appropriate battery charger and FULLY recharge the battery ASAP as this could end a lot of your issues - until you let the battery run down too low again which you wont of course now you know. 😉 Charge the battery FULLY an appropriate battery charger, check the Tudor EFB TL600 has been 'coded' in as a new battery to the car's computer program correctly. And RtFM. 😊 - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Just in case you could check for any Recalls as it not all your fault (that 'P' position thing wouldn't be you). -https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions (Edited as I put same link twice, now corrected) Let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You probably won't believe this but I didn't see your post until after I had posted, I was relying to Fab19's post. To clarify there's no need to grease the battery posts (to clamp connections, inside of the clamps), if you want to fine but there's no need, some apply grease to the outside of the combined connection of clamp to post, can get debris to it though. I used to apply to battery posts until I read it wasn't required, from a battery supplier or manufacturer I forget which now, and since then I've not bothered and I not had lots of electrolytic corrosion or noticed any.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's as varooom has put. As it's not working as it should anyway for no cost and fast to do what about pulling the fuse(s) for the alarm system to see if that makes any odds to your drain if you still have one. Was the previous battery an EFB and the same Ah as the present Varta and have you checked the 'coding' to see all is correct, type, Ah, serial number changed from previous battery (varooom will have the link for why)?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Credit to you for actions with the tyre on a performance vehicle and taking into account tread wear to the set. If you contact a proper tyre place that sells Pirelli they should be able to arrange this through their supplier or Pirelli direct. Surely the place that sold you your new tyre should be able to sort this(?). What about contacting Pirelli again and see what they can suggest. If the tyre is defective from production then it could well be worth your while. I know you've got a VRS but to me a 225/35 R19 is a bloody silly fashion size and the 18" size just as silly but I doubt you could go to more sensible sizes. I seen a few VRS owners of different model put that they have preferred (relatively) smaller wheels in real world use.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There's no need to grease the battery terminal posts but do check the battery terminal posts and the, inside particularly, of the battery post clamps are clean and that they're secure. You could if you want to protect the outside of the battery clamps and exposed top of battery posts. The earth connection at the wing, you could check it is secure or disconnect it to check it's clean and clean as required, protect as wanted.