nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Any other warnings or lights, did it happen at the same times as doing something else? Could be lots of things of course but if it's quicker and easier to access a multimeter than a scan tool that's where I'd start. Check your battery's state of charge, wait about an hour or more after you have switched off the engine and see what figure you get (depending on the reliability of the multimeter, cheap ones not used often I find give odd figures after about a year, just out of warranty of course). Let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well done on the repair. Parts quality, or lack of, becomes even more noticeable as the car gets older. There are two thicknesses of PTFE tape (that I know of, there might be more I don't) "water" and "gas" (the thicker one) makes no odds which you use on water jobs other than if it's too thick, or thin, for the job.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I can get chilled water out of the taps, very chilled at the moment ,but personally I'd never want sparkling, to me it always seems to make the water seem less of it and burp and pee sooner and more. I don't like chilled drinks as that often means very cold. Anyone can drink whatever they please but seems a bit odd to me that some buy dozens of bottles of still water from a supermarket take them home offload them often near to a tap that provides water transported there already at considerably less cost all round. Qoocker 🤣 I don't even like ceramic taps (turn the rubber washer around after 30 years for me).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I wasn't able to see the label and the eBay posting text is contradictory, 1:10 for -10°c sounds more like it I'll go for some of that once the Xmas and New Year madness is fully over, thanks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry, I wasn't disagreeing with your idea just pointing out the variances and nominal sizes. I understand your use of percentage to relate it to the 3% for speedo. Tyres get complicated for fitment, perhaps the nominal radius in mm of the two compared tyres might give the size similarity but then that could be misunderstood too. I used to put up links to specifications to show even the same make and model of tyre could vary over different sizes in nominal width to profile, load index and rim fit but many don't like looking at specification tables and the one i think I used to use as an example no longer shows actual widths plus it's better for me especially to stick with generalisations unless doing specific comparisons.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The Avon ZT7 I had put on my wife's car start at 6.5mm, and seem to wear quite quickly. I knew they started at 6.5mm by all the whinging in various places by those that thought all ("summer") tyres started at 8mm. 🙂 Imagine a concrete ditchfinder 195/60 r15 trying to wear to catch the 185/60 r15 ZT7 on diameter, though it's all nominal. As with much in life the cold figures don't always give the full story, never mind the width feel the quality (not that I'm old enough to have really seen that!). 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's been to minus 13, and I think lower, here before and we are well sheltered normally, just up the road second highest UK temperature at 40.2c this summer. We're at about 120m and town centre river is about 60m so a bit more exposed and blowy up where we are. It's not just the paying for the water it's the paying to transport it, water is heavy and bulky, but then some pay for it in plastic bottles when they can drink it out of taps in their homes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The previous battery might have, and you are in the frozen north. Wot!! That's not premixed, you must have a degree in Chemistry or Physics!. 😄 "3:1 solution down to as low as -10 deg C." - toot will know, I can't remember, but I thought they used to be more diluted and went lower but we get so few nights or days anywhere near that here that it's rarely a worry.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Wheel size is model spec still, my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 has 15" wheels with 185/60 r15 tyres (lovely mix of measurements) when we ran them at "Eco" pressure 35 psi the rolling resistance was less so presumably (fractionally) more fuel economy but the handling was less so more interesting (relatively) and the potholes a bit more noticeable. Dropping back to 30 psi we felt was better overall for us. Tried this with different tyres (makes and models) with the same results for us. 2.0 Cortina you must have been well thought of in the company. My mate's dad had a new 1974 Mk3 2000E, purple with black vinyl roof, when he passed it on, with very low mileage and FSH, to his son who ruined it with 80s inset aftermarket glass tilt sunroof and false bling chrome wire wheels. My wife got use of that car for a year in the early 90s, but I had to use in that winter snow, it had oversized wheels and tyres (185/70 up from 175/70 IIRC) fun until someone boxed me in at the front and angled insert kerb behind me, luckily a passerby rocked and slid the back end on the snow to help me out, people still knew such stuff then, lost on BMW drivers now. My wife drove my Skoda Estelle 2 (saloon) instead, funnily enough that never had any trouble in the even without sandbags in the now "frunk", plenty of wheel arch clearance for snow build up from the 13" wheels. 😄 Stories from the last millennium. 😆

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you sure the suspension on the car is in good order, I see you put the spring isn't broken but have you had everything checked, and springs can sometimes go at the top where it's difficult to see. How about measure all four wheels from their centre to the wheel arches and compare with other 2017 Octavia 1.4 TSI SE L hatchbacks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm with you I think cars now are (well) oversized for tyres (and wheels). I think for decades now wheels have been over sized and tyres too wide, and to fill the wheel arches, all about fashion. It used to be the wheels were to take the weight of the car and fit over the brakes. Bigger brakes needed bigger wheels, then on to willy-waving look how fast my car is it needs big wheels. 😄 The tyres also need to be wide and ultra low profile for looks and show how sporty the car is, even if it's just a low powered shopping trolley. 😄 I'd prefer the car on 14" steel wheels but that's just me, if someone wants 19" perambulator wheels that's fine, just not for me. Before before the SRi and XR1X4, Cortina times, 70 was low profile. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good thing it got a new battery then, also check the windscreen washer fluid has sufficient antifreeze rating to it as there's been a few threads on here with frozen washer systems. Even if you're not driving it yet you can still learn a lot about it, and know more about it than many long term owners, by reading the Owner's Manual and referring to it when required. You can resolve a lot of minor issues by referring to it. If the car doesn't still have its paper printed copy you can still download a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Instead of WD-40 Multi-Use get a can of GT85 as it can be used on rubber, contains PTFE and does what WD-40 does and more, and is a better and longer lasting lubricant and better penetrating/releasing fluid. (Note the company that now owns and makes it.) - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes possibly, low battery can cause unexpected issues and warnings even if the car starts and the lights seems bright enough, the power steering would feel fine without warning bells and whistles on your test drive with normal driving and unless you were doing low speed parking, three-point turns or trying to pirouette on one wheel. BUT - you are buying a car, and from a Dealer, in the UK, take note of all the advice already given. You now have a new battery fitted and should have some kind of warranty so keep your eye on the ABS light area if it shows up you'll know what to do.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Whoops, sorry, at least I learnt something.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Can you hear the motor, Just grabbing straws thinking - have you tried pinning the jet nozzles just in case or taking the tubing off in case there's a snot blockage or tried syphoning the tubes. Any issues with the steering column stalk. I don't know what a bi-directional scanner would power up to test.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Martin, well done on sorting it Pete done all the accurate and concise work not me, I'd have not posted about fuse 46 had I seen his post before I put mine and I'm sure he'll be able to help you with the other electrical issues. To be honest I wasn't sure that was the alarm at all but did notice a cable-tie restraining the cables cover which I don't think is factory fit so could be added later by who knows, I almost mentioned it but thought it best not to highlight it if it wasn't the alarm and was other electrical work as the alarm was the priority. Be great for others if you could do a write-up and some photos always help. The scan tool not getting anything could be several things but do bear in mind some of these tools are just error code readers, which is useful, others do and tell you a lot more but all are just diagnostic tools and have to be used as such, sometimes they point to the right thing straight off but it's not always that simple. If you put up some photos of the alarm box and its connections and the wiring and connector in the car perhaps Pete can offer some advice on it as it my be salvageable.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Put the Kit-Kat back! You were impatient, my wife's 18-month old (AGM) battery on a car with no (VW) signs of the battery being low took 17 hours to fully recharge (on the vehicle). Well done on taking it on though. You really want to fully recharge the battery, just because it starts the car and the lights seem bright enough doesn't mean the battery isn't low, or still low in this case, subject to the accuracy of the multimeter reading. The battery should show something like 12.6v to be fully charged (more or less depending on its age and use, abuse), 12.04v is about 45%. Even if you fully recharge it it might not be very good but you have to fully recharge it to know. I'll take at 720ah and the Juke started easily that it might be a diesel(?). Just for your info figures from my neighbour's Ring battery charger/analyser. 12.7v - 100% - 12.5v - 90% - 12.4v - 80% - 12.3V - 70% - 12.2v - 60% - 12.1v - 50% - 11.9v - 40% - 11.8v - 30% - 11.6v - 20% - 11.3v - 10%. When you next get a chance fully recharge it but don't wait too long or it'll go too low and you'll take it to Zombieland. ETA: Did Stanley really stand for all this, after all he's seen, must have broken his, er leg, cross-bracing, spirit.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well done to you - and Stanley, Halford and John. Just the one finger of the Kit-Kat for now, did you get the battery fully charged, what figure at connecting to the car (was there a bet on that I forget)? Flog the doubters. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes lots of info about but what is correct and what applies to your car, your VIN should get you to the correct Owner's Manual. Just about to put I'd follow the advice you'd been given before to try 54, so I'll just a triple up on that.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd follow the advice of pulling fuse 54 especially as it's there to be pulled (I thought it related to stop/start alternative). I totally understand about the alarm going off when you open the door, personally I can't stand car or house alarms. If you're only third party (can you still get that?) and not third party, fire and theft then there's no worry about not having an alarm. Sorry I've no idea what that thing is. For tagging (I'd forgot that's what it's called) put the @ symbol in front as in @mlbSK2011 Once you've stopped the alarm going off you can get to take more photos to get help from others with the other electrical problem. (I was hoping you'd be back by now saying you'd pulled the fuse and the alarm didn't go off.)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Uhmm, perhaps it's a faulty switch then, for how it's removed I'd search this site, Google or YouTube. Other thing I suppose is to plug in a scan tool to see if anything shows up but you'd think it'd be the switch. Perhaps other Rapid or Skoda owners have had this fault too and are able to give you a better answer than me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. MLS - multi layer steel. I though multi layer but not steel had to look it up. - https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/choosing-mls-head-gaskets/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry, I put the correct info in but got interrupted and then thought I'd put the post in the wrong thread deleted it and misread your post. Doh. Read two similar threads is beyond me. To cut it short, from a previous AG Falco post on the other thread, check fuses 22, 27, 31 and 46, start with 22.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes that's the point as I see it, the article is explaining the limitation, a couple of millimetres, not 12. I'm familiar with (steel) wheels of 100 mm PCD being fitted by mistake to 4" PCD (101.6 mm) (but not with the silly bloody bolts that VW use though but wheel studs).