nta16

From Aunt Google - fair enough phrase of fair INFORMAL used to admit that something is reasonable or acceptable. [acceptable but not over happy about it] 😐 "‘I can't come because I'm working late.’ ‘Fair enough.’"

Fair enough.

No, ECT is Engine Coolant Temperature (sensor).

You can get distracted sometimes by your own thoughts, I thought I could hear a noise at the front but my wife pointed out it was the rear, a fresh set of ears sitting the other side of the car can make all the difference or sitting in the other two or three seats.

Random thoughts from me I'm afraid. You want the air to go to the highest point and be released. I don't know the set up on your or if it has ABS(?) but there are different methods to bleeding brakes and clutch system and perhaps some 'tricks' specific to the model such as elevating one area of the car. Another possibility is air sucking in rather than fluid leaking out, of connections or hoses. Another thing I hear of with my type of car is of new cylinders being boxed with the bleed nipple in the wrong opening to get it in the box and is left like that on installation. Different people favour different methods of renewing the fluid and/or bleeding with some using suction. others a loop in the existing system and others like myself just gravity and/or pumping the pedal into a jar with fluid in it to stop air being sucked in. I also like to put a bit of grease in the threads of the nipples to create a seal around them and stop the possibility of air being pulled passed the threads. Another old trick is to wedge a stick between the peddle and seat front so that the pedal is pushed and held down at least overnight to allow air bubbles to rise. You could also go round and one by one open a bleed nipple and see if fluid comes out as it should, close it off and try the next one in line. The reverse of that is to look for weeps by cleaning each point then putting some talc, fine sawdust or paper tissue on the areas to see if any wet shows up. If you mean could the master cylinder be leaking within itself then yes it could. New shoes could make a difference if the current shoes are wrong in anyway and not taking up the gap, same if the it's the wheel cylinders. Can you adjust the shoes out to lock the wheel up? I've just cleaned and lubricated the rear drums on mine and had to completely reset the shoe adjustment which should be easy but first attempt was far too close and second attempt too loose, third attempt I can't remember if it's better or worse than before I started but I will do more then road test each time until it feels about right on the pedal. Could you put in a long high remote bleed pipe and put more fluid through to allow the air to a very high point, I'd be using tube and jam jar with fluid seal. That's me out of ideas, before I started the post really.

I can understand the idea of being cheaper with gaskets, the car and parts manufacturers have always worked to fractions (decimal places) of a penny. It's just the head shape and with the exposed gasket and no claiming force (or whatever the correct technical term is) to that exposed edge to me seems odd. Do I take it there no hole under where I've circled and the oil has wicked from elsewhere as the gasket might have delaminated?

Thank you varooom, you are reinforcing my point about taking, or not taking, figures at face value. I don't want to got into circular discussions as can and has happened previously on here but there are variables to taking readings even if both vehicles are the same with the same make, model and type of battery. One is that in my experience cheap digital multimeters can be a bit iffy especially if not used a lot (that'll push the lateral thinking) and around just out of one year warranty. Just for info it was 13.04v on my not expensive present of Martindale MM39 digital multimeter, which I always think might be optimistic but I have nothing else to compare it against and I use it as a 'gauge' rather than 'accurate'. The battery was a six years old Halfords dinky HB056, charger on my Carcoon charger, in the spare room, ambient temperature about 22c this morning, I didn't have my left foot in water but my left thigh might have been damp but that's old age for yer. Figures are fun, some more - battery 2.1-2.15v per cell depending on which figures you favour or see written, and from my other neighbour's Ring Smart Charger, the figures I usually quote as I've got then to copy & paste, but snipped here for a change, well it's as good as a rest. I

Two points for my favourite subjects of battery charge and clearing codes. 🤣

@Frosty99 main earths like ones on engines and gearboxes (where applicable) are important and can be checked and made clean, secure and protected but that literally involves getting down and dirty so I'd start at the battery post clamps as that's a good place to start in my experience and the battery earth to wing seems another good and easy thing to check and if required clean, secure and protect. The 12.6v reading may be very healthy or it might not be so healthy depending on a number of variables, your car and you done the test so you'll decide for yourself I'm sure but before rushing into sexy stuff do be sure to cover the simple, basic and unsexy stuff as usually you can progress successfully without doing so. Checking wiring and connectors are basic checks but if it involves a tool you haven't got then I'd be checking other stuff I can get done first. I'm not disagreeing with anything Breezy_Pete has put, other than perhaps the battery 12.6v, as he's very knowledgeable on such things but just checking the basics can often resolve issues and be free, or cheap, and easy, or at least relatively easy. I'm just about to refit my neighbour's battery to their car, it shows 13.07v on my digital multimeter. Good luck with getting things sorted.

Main earth to check is the one from the battery post to the body of the car, same for the positive post clamp, loose clamps will cause problems, (then you'd need to check your wiring diagram for other earths. ETA: now sorted.). A few times I've found the battery post clamps loose, often this is the problem so easily found and sorted (battery recharge might also be required). But first check your battery thoroughly the recent extreme hot weather will have done your battery no favours, 12.6v is fine but that needs checking a good while after the car has been running and you really need to know what it drops to as the starter cranks over to see what real guts it has. I'd suggest you charge the battery (disconnected if possible) anyway as you need the battery in a good state of charge and condition often to find and sort electrical issues and a lower or poor state of battery (and charging system) will hinder progress. A long, low, slow charge is better than the quick chargers and not booster. Just driving the car often is nowhere near enough to recharge a battery that's been depleted. I charged up a neighbour's battery last week despite him telling me it was "good", I hear that often when they're not, I forget how many volts it showed but it was not low "as the battery had been on a charger to 90%". We jump started the car with the loan of some decent leads and use of my wife's Fabia Mk3 battery. And right now I'm looking at another neighbour's battery that starts the car but might not later if I wasn't charging it up now (off the car, been 10 hours now on slow charge and no green light).

Sorry I missed that, good on you. I think your Handbook looks a lot more unnecessarily complicated than the earlier ones. The one for my wife's car appears to have been written by a German engineering student before it was translated to Chinese and from there into English. There are some bits in it that even if you know how to do what it tries to explain you can't follow their explanation. They obviously didn't use the Plain English Campaign for the English version of the Handbooks. And good on you for keeping an eye on the car's oil temperature, also bear in mind the recent extreme hot weather wouldn't have been good for the car battery so when required recharge it up sooner than later.

Good advice there, and look at the condition of the car. It might also depend on whether you intend to keep the car into high and higher mileage as both are turbos and direct injection so under pressure. I would favour a 1.2 (90) lower power with 5 speed over a 1.0 higher power (110) 6 speed for possibly being better in the higher mileage and general longevity - but other may know better from experience or disagree with my thoughts.

To me it is strange that the head does not fully cover the gasket and block but I am not an engineer or mechanic.

You would have to check with 1.0 owners and test drive both cars including on a highway but I would think the 1.2 would be more suited but I don't know what gearbox ratios are in the 5-speed boxes in each or if they are the same for both engines. Personally I have never found a 6th gear to be of much use but it might depend on the car and engine that it is in. You need more input and information from others that know more (than me) and owners of 2017-18 1.0 and 1.2 cars and to test drive the vehicles yourself. Your decision might also depend on your priorities with things like fuel consumption and ride comfort and noise or other priorities.

Depends on how many some highway miles are and to what proportion of total mileage, also whether it's just you or you and heavy luggage or passengers and luggage, also what you are used to and what you expect from the Fabia you choose. It might also depend on the gearbox choice for each car. I've never driven a 1.0 but as as a generality the four cylinder 1.2 is more suited than the 3 cylinder 1.0 for more than occasional higher speeds highway miles.

It does seem that way which shows the importance of getting the right relevant part and good on your programmer for highlighting the possible problem.

@cello up to you what you do, following is for your info only from my understanding but I'm not an expert in anything. Note there is Insurance & Legal Issues section on here you could look at. You are obligated to report the incident to your insurers and even if you do not make a claim it might have some effect on your premium, it is in itself a proof of risk. He too should inform his insurers, even if he doesn't make a claim (if he has valid insurance that is). Like all of us I've had experiences of car accidents and bumps and dealt with them in various ways, one thing I can guarantee you is that away from the bump or accident some people flat out lie for various reasons, not all but some, to get out of it entirely, for many reasons. What path is best for you and what's worth perusing and how far is up to you, sometimes you can get the matter sorted and paid for without going through an insurance claim, sometimes it's not as easy as bits of paper being signed even if you can get that far. Putting anything on a public forum makes it, well, public so be aware of that. Best of luck to you.

Well something worked out right - but what change or change of part most contributed. 🤣 Now to see if records can be set in autumn and winter.

My wife still listens to a lot of 70s pop music she says both years were good for music, but she wouldn't have a clue about today's pop music '74 was the introduction of 60 and 50 mph speed limits to save petrol. '76 was the long hot summer but being young I didn't really notice, I've no idea bout cars then as I was still too young to drive but you expected to get a reasonably decent old banger for about £100, and the cars were all old bangers then, even the newer or new ones.

Prices have gone really crazy but if you're replacing the car with a higher priced car then you are not benefitting unless you get it below its present value. Lease and extended lease cars have been returning, my neighbour collects them, there was a period where they didn't, the change of registration month is here soon, cost of living, home energy price rises, possible(?) interest rate increase - you don't want to be buying or selling on the wrong sides of the changes. Who knows lower priced cars may hold their values for a while as people look for cheaper cars but many will also be looking at increasing mpg because of the recently highlighted and high fuel prices even if the prices are coming down. It could be 1974(?) all over again. 😄

Are you doing that work yourself as I've found trimmers/upholsters are now fewer and further between and charge more than a number of years ago and the good ones are always busy so weeks before you can get the work done (6 weeks for me when I booked my work in last week). ETA: I like the colour of yours. Is that a vinyl roof and pillars covering, did you do that yourself?

Has had money spent on it - that's impressive and helps with a sale but might not add that much value to the more experienced buyer. Got a big fat ****ing booklet thing to confirm that. - that's always impressive especially if in strict order of some sort (reverse chronological perhaps) and the whole thing is presented well, better to have loose pages in clear plastic pockets/envelopes. Some with be very impressed if you colour code the booklet to the car and you have separate sections for MoTs and other history. "Angry" sounding three pot engine - not a description I used - would use - in any advert or description as it sounds like it might be knackered, unless it means something different to younger folk and you only want to sell it to them. Handles well. Rear beam clamps, soon to have front console bushes polybushed - careful with this as it might suggest you drive the car hard, and there are good bushes and ****-poor bushes available no one knows all the names so I'd leave it at rebushed if you want to include this and leave the potential buyer to ask for more detail if they want. Something is clunking (WIP) and (WIP) - both you really want sorted before any test drives Driver's seat padding is a bit poor - that's a shame, you've got the good impression of clean door shuts, driver's or front seats, steering wheel and gear knob make a good impression on a better presented car like yours. Service history... - you make up for with your extensive big fat booklet, make it a section in that, will look better as a part of something bigger than a slim volume of its own. You can tone down dents, scratches and key marks with paint and polishes and not presenting the car highly polished like a new car at a dealership, reasonably clean is fine with even a slight layer of dust as this is a used car despite many expecting it to be brand new others will be pleased to see it has all its doors and painted the same colour. Mild surface rust on rear sills - use something like Kurust to at least stop (slow down) the rust on show, you can then leave it as it is or touch-up paint over, both will show up so you're not hiding anything or pulling a fast one, leave with just Kurust (as with some of the others?). So if you're a vain and shallow buyer who obsesses over cosmetic ****e, then this is not for you - don't alienate or put off any potential buyers, let them decide the levels and standards they want, if they have objections you can work out then do so, any potential purchaser that is really willing to buy is worth thousands of those that haven't contacted you. Highlight what's important to the buyer not you, what's important to you may not be to them and the other way round, they may just tell you or you can ask questions or pick up on what they say. Personally I wouldn't have any personal stuff in the car for the sale photos, (again a clean engine bay and boot deck impresses many, shiny under the wheel arches might be a step too far though. Any car stuff in the photos a buyer may expects and sales can be lost over silly little things particular with something as personal to many/some as a car, if the car mats or anything isn't going with the car don't include them in the photos to avoid confusion. Plus it give you the opportunity if you want to throw such stuff in as a sweetener to swing the sale, silly little things can make as well as break a sale or make up for any other awkwardness. Also remember you are selling the car not buying the buyer, you don't have particularly like them, don't be false but do be courteous, there are two parties to the deal you can walk away from it but so can they. Oh, no, sorry I've no idea what's it's worth but if you want to sell it I'd suggest you don't hang about and get it advertised as soon and as widely as possible, don't forget locally too, but don't sell to anyone you know and never family as they always want something for nothing and blame you for all the mistreatment they give the car. Good luck.

Doesn't that depend on how the CCA are measured/spec'd/qualified/insert correct word/terminology/description. Not taking into account . . . aw, just so many things. It's enough if it's all that's needed to complete whatever is required, depending on . . . more variables. Or stock up with more electrickery now to have a safe margin now and for a reasonable amount of future needs so as not to be back at this point again too quickly. I'll give 10 to 1 on it's not 4.3kW now anyway. 😁 From now on I will think of the dear departed as TenTo, I wonder if Doris can get a message to him, or him to her. Blah, blah. 😄

You know my first would low battery charge and/or lose connections. 😁 ETA: That leaves you with 998 or 997 to name as I'm out of ideas already. Screen to centre of dash dials operated through wheel/dial/button on steering wheel and through Infotainment, far too much info to put here. ETA: I missed varooom had already posted the images, my machine runs in a different time zone, as does my brain.

My mental image was of a thumb, or part palm moving against a scroll wheel or car has some poor connections or when was the chip shortage for perhaps poor quality 'radio' internals or construction. I'll have a look through the awful Powerpoint type online Handbook and see what it has for 'dot matrix' type screen. ETA: I missed you'd already done this.