nta16

Only a guess without seeing what and how 29 fixes but 27 might be a weak point but you would need to see from underneath really.

Would it depend on how Parts 26 and 27(?) relate to Part 29 and how worn or not any or all three parts are, I do not know but might it only be something to do with the ring or ball joint shown in the image of Part 29.

@hetty1 was after someone to plug in an appropriate level scan tool to see if the passenger seat belt warning has been disabled for any reason (or if it might show up wiring/communication/connector fault) as the warning light does not come on when his wife is sitting in the passenger seat and accidentally forgets to put on her seatbelt. A full scan report is always useful too and perhaps clear any historical codes that have been missed. For whatever reason @hetty1isn't able to see the 'Message' button to contact you directly. He's in the Wirral which looked to me to be not too far from Liverpool but I don't know the area at all. I'll leave it with you both now.

Yes, I must admit I missed that bit. Blimey how bad are the mechanics out your way, do none of them have any training or pass any tests or are they just lazy and bad workmen (our country has many like that, they think their customers are something they trod in and need to clear from the soles of their boots).

I do not know if this video will fully put your mind to rest but it has a good ending. -

🤣 I am possibly too very sensitive then, and too very egotistical. Possibly makes more sense now but I thought I was on Pete's ignore list so got all confused again, I am the centre of my universe as well as being the centre of J.R.'s, popular at being unpopular, is there an ignored lists count I can climb. 🤣 I will have to keep an eye on myself for my reactions to the purple J as I am obviously not as controlled as I think I am or need to be, a work in lack of progress. Thank gawd it is the internet and nothing important.

🤣 I said I was getting more confused - did you mean J. R. put me on his ignore list, fine by me I think I've suggested people ignore my posts if they don't like them, or take the **** if they want. There are definably times I should be ignored but I don't realise until it's too late, if at all. Such is lif.

Thanks, I guessed it'd be some sort of hide type setting, even looked at it when I saw it, couldn't see but I don't need that as I can ignore without it and if I can't I can deal with it and myself as with everything else in life, to greater and lesser degrees of success. As long as it remains just virtual stalking on this site "I ain't bovvered".

It's good for my ego to have my own personal Troll, I feel even more of a celebrity than I already am, plus while he's Tolling me it saves someone else. I have been getting more confused more frequently recently so it's good to have some reoccurring certainties to remind me what is actually what. Apart from that, I've no idea how an ignore list works and what it'd do that I can't already when I choose to.

Personally I think it can help in other ways and will not harm so yes. The way I would suggest is disconnect the battery. and take this opportunity to fully recharge the battery. Whilst the battery is disconnected turn the ignition on to the setting that would allow the brake lights to illuminate if the battery was connected and press the brake pedal hard enough to illuminate the brake lights if the battery was connected and hold the pedal down for a count of 10 to 20 seconds, or your favourite number in-between. This will deplete any electric left in the computer(s) (my terminology only). Whist the battery is fully disconnected you may want to take the opportunity to fully recharge it. Personally I prefer to recharge the battery, as much as is possible, with a long, low and slow recharge rather than a quick, high fast recharge as this will often get a better recharge of the battery. ETA: to split out the two ideas, the battery may not need recharging or it might not be convenient or wanted at the time so the disconnection of the battery may be very brief, and give context to the Trolling HTH.

The new mechanic sounds a lot better than the old mechanic. What sort of reset do you mean, what will it reset?

Using the map the two nearest that I can see are - @PeteHuws - Chester @tunedude - Liverpool If you hover your cursor over the name(s) above you will get a box appear, bottom left click on the 'Message' button to send a message. HTH.

Anyone with the correct level of up to date scan tool appropriate to your car should be able to tell you what you need to know , have a look on this map to see if anyone near you with VCDS is able and willing to help you. - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=24.91828661129606%2C35.69278626728145&z=3 You don't need to give the VIN as the machine will pick it up when plugged in.

For rear seat passengers out of interest I have just done a test on my wife's 2015 MK3. I sat in driver's seat my wife in a rear seat, I started the car and put my seat belt on but my wife on the back seat did not. There was the usual three (empty) back seats diagram in the dot matrix part of the dash, no bleeps or warnings as such. I then got my wife to put her back seat belt on as I drove and the three back seat diagram appeared on the dash again but this time showing the seat she was sitting in with the seat belt fitted and then the three back seats diagram went out. I then asked her to take her back seat belt off and the usual three (empty) back seats diagram reappeared. So that sequence seems to be the warning system for back seat passengers, I so infrequently drive the car and even less so with rear seat passengers plus it is my habit not to drive off until all passengers and myself are wearing seat belts. HTH with regards to rear seat passengers at least.

Well as you have seen these part numbers and what supersedes what and databases can all get very involved, look on the bright side you had the original part from Skoda factory assembly to work from otherwise it would have been unclear as to what it actually was compared to the possibilities of what it might have been and what might, or might not, have worked just as well instead.

I do not know so just a guess, the 1A/01 part might just be a reference to packaging, that is it is not a box of 10 or 10,000 but a packet of a single item. Good to see it has the anti-seize already applied and protected.

The quality of scan tool programming can be variable and if it is not able to be updated may continue to contain who knows what, errors, glitches, misinformation, missprograming, etc., which low level tool and program can you trust more than the other, I have no idea. Checking the wiring and if required cleaning the connectors is worth a look but not taking the sensor out to clean it. You could yes it with a meter to check it is working but that will not tell you if it is working correcting in real world use. Live data on a proper scan tool might help. Given you will be making a fifth garage visit it would probably be a lot less expensive to go to an expert and get it sorted in perhaps one visit. I have no idea about the people who have already seen your car so can not comment on them but the expert might be so because he things about the problem and does the relevant tests with the relevant equipment, and charges more perhour but takes less hours and visits to sort the problems. It is not normally a good idea just to fit new parts without full diagnosis but if the previous part you fitted 5 years ago was not a genuine part then for £19 to fit a new genuine part might be a very good and low cost investment. Same for lambda sensor a genuine original part would probably be better, that does not always mean that it has to have VW/VAG/Skoda stamped or a Bosch or other label on it but the actual part manufacturer used and bought in by Skoda at the car being manufactured. Going cheap with parts and labour can often work out expensive or very expensive in the short, medium or long-term.

I think the new factory original fit NGK sensor might do it, to give credit where it is due, as spotted at the start of your other long thread by Papez, and recommended by your tuner. As previous tests were done with the iridium plugs over national road-mountain route and city driving I would suggest you put the iridium plugs back in to test the new lambda as a one step change and test, plus you and your tuner were very pleased with the results with them and they might add a little more pep and fun to your national road-mountain route. Enjoy your trip do the recording only as a very minor quick part of it, the underground, second(?) cold start is the real test which is when you are at work and you are not at work on your trip.

Sorry my mistake I misunderstood and thought your previous concern was that you had been offered a Bosch 'C' rather than NTK/NGK 'C'. Things now fall into place and make sense. All being well you should get good results straight from fitting the new 'E' as the previous worked well for 18 years I can see why you would want to get it back and hopefully you have tracked down your issue and perhaps picked up some possible improvements from the other changes you have tried or will test. I certainly embraced the thread title. ETA: I will now look at as many images of elbows as possible.

I am not defending the seller, it is up to him how he runs his business but if I have understood you correctly he already said which of his products he would suggest you buy. - I do not know and only speculate that he has given no more detail as he thinks if he says exactly which NTK/NGK you will use that information to buy elsewhere having used his knowledge. I am just as surprised as he probably was that you asked about, and have now bought, the 6U0906265E, post cat rear sensor, given the quote above but it is your car and your decision and perhaps the original 6U0906265 C, pre cat front sensor is more suited to factory specification original car rather than your modified car or either sensor would be fine, as long as it does what you want that is all that matters.

Hopefully the correct NGK lambda sensor will help and you have also sorted your coolant temperature sensor and it wiring, connections and communications and the ECU and its communications are fine and ECU mapping suitable to what you want. You can then find which plugs give you the most benefit. When it comes time to renew your paper air filter you may decide to try another type of filter and before or after this discover whether the factory air filter housing warm air valve is best left as is or deactivated. But all these steps should be taken one at a time and the results checked and confirmed at each stage individually.

LC-9586, according to this - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/crossref.asp?idlist=OZA457-I1&submit=Search and this. - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/crossref.asp?idlist=OZA457-I1&submit=Search The shops can only specify to factory standard car and parts and superseded parts, your tuner would know better with the modifications on your car and the tuning that he has done and the readings off the car, IIRC he said something like you should go to original which would be according to the bloke on the site NGK version of LP42481. - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/az2.asp?idlist=LP-42481 Or it might be that we have been going round in circles so long we no longer know our arses from our elbows and we need others to tell us the difference.

You are on the roundabout again, you do know roundabouts have exists as well an entry. As far as I can see from that site and on this thread, OZA457-I1 is 6U0 906 265 E so LC-9586 on that site. -https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/crossref.asp?idlist=OZA457-I1+&submit=Search Up to you want you decide is correct. *$c&*** computer playing up! now!

As an example of the confusion this is what you get when doing a search on that site for '6U0 906 265 C'. - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/crossref.asp?idlist=6U0+906+265+C&submit=Search Only my guess but I might think the supplier's two different parts numbers go to the same two (NGK or Bosch Universal Part No. UN15) actual parts. Personally (but I am not you or anyone else) I would be happy to take his advice and order the NGK (LP42481) from that guy/company Lambda Power dot UK dot com. - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/az2.asp?idlist=LP-42481 I am used to these parts searches not always giving a straight or correct result but it is difficult sometimes for others to understand particularly those that want fast results, I prefer correct answers rather than just quick answers myself, many using the internet can get quick answers but whether those answers are correct or not is another matter (and I am not always totally immune from this).

Information can be confusing, mistakes can be made especially with or in the databases of parts suppliers and cross-referencing. You done the right thing by checking the information.