nta16

The plugs look like what they are - new and city use. If the gap was over large you' would probably have misfires especially with your more spirited driving. When those plugs were first installed you was very pleased with them - "I change them today, first words of the mechanic "oh, these are good, now it revs better". Small test from me (house to work): Yes indeed especially when the traffic light goes green and i start plus the sound of the engine at low-medioum rpm (not enough road for high rpm moving)." "These are my previous Champion, only for 3175 Km on use but the majority of them on slow city traffic." If you want to try to reduce the gap then it will be to 0.9mm - not 0.8mm - and you need to get the correct tool not the one you have now. - "3. Gapping fine-wire spark plugs While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are occasions when the gap requires adjustment. Care must be taken to avoid bending or breaking off the fine-wire electrodes. NGK recommends a round wire-style or pin gauge gap tool to measure the gap. If the gap must be adjusted, use a tool that only moves the ground electrode and does not pry between or against the electrodes. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008” [0.2mm] from the factory preset gap." - https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs (Easy for me to copy and paste as we have been through this before.) I do not think that the spark plugs are the issue of your longer warmer up time and higher idle from cold start, I would have thought it more likely to be from - coolant temperature sensor, its wiring, connections or communication to the ECU, ECU, ECU remapping lambda sensor, its wiring, connections or communication to the ECU, ECU, ECU remapping. ETA: I forgot to add - NGK BKR5EX-11 are a NGK upgrade plug to the 'Recommended' BKUR5ET-10, see link and attached PDF. - https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/SKODA/FELICIA/2001/13778/ NGK_Upgrades (1).pdf

It may be correct to their database but is it the correct one for you or the one you wanted as 6U0906265E, OZA457-I1.

I always keep in mind what Judge Judy says "No good deed goes unpunished". 😉

For the 1.3 MPI, engine code AMH it has LP42481 - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/az2.asp?idlist=LP-42481 You can go round in circles for a very long time.

No I was going on 6U0 906 265 E (6U0906265E) that you or someone else put up and following the 6U being the code for your engine. See my post on Sunday - "Up to you which data(bases) you believe or disbelieve they all have errors and omissions but with a car the age of yours it is possible to have superseded part number - but I do not know if this is the case here - so more than one part available that are basically the same and will do the same job. As your car is modified and 21+ years old it might be that you do not need to worry about getting the part with the exact original part number if that has been superseded provided you are careful about match the numbers and information." This is the same as when looking at the information, databases and cross-references for the spark plug, and other parts, you have to make a decision based on the information available or get more information and cross-check all again.

Seemed to be a fashion with the manufacturers, perhaps 15-20(?) years back not to have a gauge just blue symbol until the engine warmed up. I can remember further back a mate's girlfriend overheating the engine and when I asked if she'd not seen the gauge rising he said it didn't have one and sure enough it didn't, first time I'd seen such a thing, bottom of the range small French car, forget which.

I can understand why the manufacturers do it and I fell for it when I first got a new Japanese car, as it was Japanese I just thought it was good like the rest of the car, being more used to old British cars. With the old British cars the numbers and then markings disappeared off some of the gauges as the years and decades passed as the owners got too worried about exact figures and how they compared with other people's cars, particularly so when people bought them as "classics" more to look at than actually drive (sometimes they did need to worry though).

I think others on here might order from Autodoc but I have no idea how good they are, as long as its genuine NGK and not fake, I do not get the impression they would knowingly have fakes but I do not really know.

I have never used this place but their website offers advice and tools too, they post to Greece, do order tracking if you want it, and if you are in a rush "International Airmail Upgrade" for £8.99 extra. https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/ordering.asp

https://www.ngkntk.com/service/where-to-buy/

Sorry but it is literally all Greek to me. Personally I would sooner pay more (perhaps initially) with a reliable supplier who uses reliable sources to get their stock from. Cheap items can often work out expensive or very expensive in the short, medium and long term.

Part number LC-9586 - SKODA, VOLKSWAGEN - 6U0 906 265 E, 6U0906265E - NGK 4 wire 516mm - Connector type 36 NGK Direct Fit £76.99 - Bosch Universal Part Number UN15 £49.99 - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/az2.asp?IDlist=LC-9586

I'm not disputing this just interested to know where you found this info.

Are you installing this before or after the new plugs and lambda sensor, do you not remember getting on this roundabout before.

Personally no but I only buy parts for much older cars than yours, given a choice I personally would buy genuine Japanese electronic parts.

Fair enough, as I put before I would favour Japanese made over (possibly) German made but that's my bias and regardless I would go for whichever is better.

ETA: Bosch 0258003745 - A quick look at two suppliers shows (you would have to confirm the information) it as - Skoda part 6U0 906 265 C, VW 441 0 4165 042 6, 6U0 906 265 C, BOSCH 0 258 986 505 (LS 3745) NTK (NGK-GROUP) 0183, OZA447-E13, OZA457-EE19 NGK 97908, OZA457EE19 Engine Code: AMH [50 Kw / 68 HP], Exhaust System: in front of the catalyst, Lambda Sensor: Regulating Probe, Supplementary Article/Info 2: for lead-free fuel Overall Length [mm]545 Number of Poles 4 Recommended replace interval [km]160000 Bosch, like other German stuff, isn't always the best but they are very good with some stuff and that ought to include Lambda sensors. Up to you which data(bases) you believe or disbelieve they all have errors and omissions but with a car the age of yours it is possible to have superseded part number - but I do not know if this is the case here - so more than one part available that are basically the same and will do the same job. As your car is modified and 21+ years old it might be that you do not need to worry about getting the part with the exact original part number if that has been superseded provided you are careful about match the numbers and information.

Is it the Bosch parts that have a Bosch sticker on them then you peel it off to see the original manufacture. Yes different companies have different buying and overheads and what they sell for, plus their location, generally most business in UK have to pay taxes and other overheads.

You needed the paint to hold them together, same for many other makes and models though. These films and TV programs of the 60s and 70s with all the cars very shiny and pristine when most were dirty and rusty. Vauxhalls were even worse in the early 70s for rust, same with the Datsuns that held them back otherwise the British car makers would have gone down the toilet earlier than they did.

I think this is the first time I've ever seen one. ETA: reminds me of and old HA Viva a mate had in the mid-70s, the passenger could lift the foot mat and polish their boots on the front tyre as the car went along.

Depending on the type of key, are you sure you're not keeping the key too close to the car or the other key competing for which gets there. Try moving the key the further away from the car and/or other key and see what happens. Otherwise it's perhaps internal cleaning of the key and battery or new key and coding I expect, that's me out of ideas.

Given the choice of some "German made" brand and a made in Japan 11 times out of 10 I would buy the one made in Japan.

Both 2017 Fabia Owner's Manuals refer to "Front seat belt warning light", see below. This is taken from the Owner's Manual via the link for downloadable PDF(s). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

If you change two items together how will you know which might have been previously to blame and possibly gives improvement. The lambda if at fault will yield by far the best improve over plugs if replaced with a good quality sensor and connections and wiring, you should try this first, retaining the iridium plugs to see what the results are of just changing the sensor (connector, wiring). Then after tests and results change the plugs if you feel it necessary or you just want to then again tests and results.

Link to the Skoda Owner's Manuals where you can enter your VIN (or look for appropriate month and year of your car) and download the Owner's Manual in PDF form. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models The one I looked at said Front seat belt warning.