nta16

A good penetrating/releasing fluid and patience. As said PlusGas or GT85, not WD-40 Multi-use, spray (or drip) on generously then leave as long as possible, overnight at least. Then first try slightly tightening the fixing to break the rust/crud seal and slowly loosen. If difficult spray (drip) more fluid and tighten a little and loosening more, repeat as required. If you can't loosen the fixing at all, use more patience by starting the process again - soak, leave as long as possible to soak in, and try again. The only time I've failed is when my stock of patience was too low, lesson learnt I don't start unless the stock of patience is full. I prefer GT85 to PlusGas now as GT85 has more uses and PlusGas is made by a different company now and to me doesn't seem as effective. Having put that GT85 is no longer made by a British company but from an invasive American corporation, called WD-40 Company. - https://gt85.co.uk/

At that rate the scan tool could be an economic investment for this and future jobs on this car (and others) as part of servicing, maintenance and repairs and for preventive servicing and save potential later time and hassle. Say like checking the condition of the battery and charging system, also clearing historical codes, checking how the car is actually performing before an error code or light is thrown up, diagnostics and wiring and communications for the whole car and not just the engine plus, if you must, fiddle with and alter settings hidden or adjustable on the car via the computer programs. There can be dedicated updates and links to more information on repairs and problem solving via the scan tool manufacturer. There's only so much you can do on modern cars without the interference of their computer programs, particularly VW (cough, diesellgate).

Labour costs wise it'd probably not be worth it it as a one off job but given your level of diagnostics and checking it might be worth you buying a higher level of scan tool or access level to do this work and other future work on your car (and others), and also given there's at least one thread on here where a garage balls'd the job up leaving the car owner up to his eyeballs in the smelly stuff. Whether the cheap and/or favoured VW systems do this at reasonable cost I don't know but general higher level scan tools are into the hundreds of pounds over here but I think you'd find the information and what they can do and check without the need for other tools and effort with the correct level of scan tool to be very useful and time (and effort) saving, depends of course how much you enjoy the chase to the final resolution.

Start with the wiring and connections to cylinder 3.

Though the engine isn't designed as a barnstormer nothing wrong with 20mph/1,000rpm, puts 60mph at your max torque. Couple of decades back my wife had a three-pot with 16mph/1,000rpm in 5th (top) gear and she'd have it in 5th at 35mph, though it was a marvellous bulletproof Japanese engine in a smaller capacity engine and smaller lighter car. Timely changes of things like plugs and other items can help a bit rather than trying for world-record mileage use because they still work and haven't totally fallen apart but you're not going to beat the engine design and engineering quality. Also bear in mind your car and engine are 16 years old, you've probably forgotten how noisy cars used to be and you didn't see so many smaller family cars at 16 years old still running back when your car was new let alone before it. As said by others tyres make a big difference to noise and comfort and any suspension, steering, hubs, wheels or component support wear will add to the cacophony. Perhaps your standards and expectation of noise and comfort are too high, or your servicing and maintenance standards not as high as you think - or you just have above average hearing sensitivity, but not for the whole range if you listen to cassettes. 😄

For engine noise timely servicing and perhaps oil choice a bit, induction noise (air filter and housing), exhaust noise, noise from the engine ancillaries and a/c and perhaps others stuff in the engine bay, then as you're considering sound deadening or insulation to and/or from the area. I find my wife's 2015 Fabia engine bay noisy from inside the car, perhaps that's partially why VW cars are heavy all the sound insulation, less insulation on the non-VW badge cars to keep price and value differentials. Perhaps you are more used to quieter cars, a free phone App measured my car at 93db at a steady 30mph with the roof down, it'd be more with the roof up. Never tried on my wife's Fabia, the blower motor is noise if above 1 and the a/c adds its own noises, engine bay noises vary all the time, then there some sort of noises from the front wheel area, no noticeable induction or exhaust noise though, well not over the rest anyway.

For rattle, drumming, vibration types of noise I've found self-adhesive stick on van type sound deadening pads to be very good, they're the only sort of sound or any insulation on my car other than the world's cheapest "carpet" set, no underfelt. A lot less effort to fit as you can fit bits one at a time and you can add more if required later, they can be cut into smaller shapes or strips if required. Mine are just stuck on painted panels on the bonnet, in the boot, engine bay, footwells - but not on the doors where I intended to start as I couldn't be arsed to remove the door cards and it's mattered so far. I can't find the ones I got, 10 panels and I still have a few left, but these I give as only an example of what I mean, these are smaller pads but less cutting then. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300894542405

You don't get much at a service other than engine oil and filter change and "free visual checks" unless you ask for more or they find things to repair rather than service. An 8 year old car could need more servicing that is in the "Service" and "Maintenance" (air filter change is only at 6 years/60k-miles which I find amazingly long). Things like MAF cleaning aren't included, as well as coolant change and other items that used to be included in services. And that's only dealing with the relatively unimportant engine part of the car. Attached (pdf) prices are out of date now. national-price-servicing-min.63862747c3e6286ede19bc446a023030.pdf

You could be right or that could be one or two mistakes on your part. Neglecting the basics or not double-checking can often be a basic and fundamental mistake, I made one this weekend and wasted time and effort.

Others here will know better and at least one has done a video on cleaning the throttle body, IIRC yours is good old fashioned mechanical cable driven and IIRC the car will 'relearn' the new clean settings or there is no doubt some non-scanner method to speed up the process for the idle setting anyway which you have already found on here or elsewhere. Clean the throttle body thoroughly off of the car, you will do a better job and it saves shifting the muck further inside the engine. You have reminded me that I should clean the throttle body on my wife's Fabia.

See my post on 7 May, many say I am not ordinary in many ways. 🙃

Buying a cheap sensor can work out very expensive in the medium, long or even short term, Lemark was a cheap brand for other stuff but if others have found their sensors to be good fair enough. As pointed out don't shoot the messenger, in this case sensor 2, without checking and interpreting the information given, where a fault shows may not be where it originates from (though it can be). It might be the photo or that you have touched the sensor perhaps but do they all look like that in that area - have you checked the sensor is in tightly, most have trouble getting them out so you'd soon know if it was loose.

ETA: dash temperature gauge is set to show 90 even though the real temperature might be within a range around 90, this is to save drivers worrying about the exact temperature and possible normal fluctuations.

A new part could be wrong or faulty for many reasons, never assume just because a part is new that it is the correct part or fully functioning even if it works. As you have found before it's important to fit the correct good quality parts. Note I am not saying your rad switch is faulty just not to assume it can't be.

Get your Owner's Manual out and check what warning light(s) and bleeping were actually coming on and see the reason(s) for them coming on. If you don't have a paper copy you can download a PDF copy from this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Are you sure it was oil warnings? Did your coolant/water temperature gauge show high at all? Coolant bottle cap I'd have thought could only have been left off by someone - have you checked in the engine bay in case you're lucky and it has fell somewhere and lodged itself to be retrieved? Check the level of coolant in the expansion bottle when car is cold, if there's coolant in the bottle then you can top it up with the appropriate coolant. See photos below if your coolant bottle looks like the one below then the other photo is the type of cap you want, note the G12 marking and image telling you to refer to your Owner's Manual. Let us know how you get on.

I am not surprised about the air filter as I put many think a car service is just change engine oil and filter and perhaps top up the windscreen washer bottle. Changing that filter and cleaning out the airbox and its tubes and hoses will have a good effect in itself, remember the engine is basically a big air pump. If you have not already done so cleaning out the airbox and its tubes and hoses as soon as possible. It does probably mean the throttle body really needs cleaning which I think you can do without the worry of a scan tool but check with others. Personally I would now run through a couple tankfulls of Shell V-Power or other petrol that has a greater additive package of cleaners, it will also help (a bit) clean out the cat from all the muck as perhaps over fuelling from lack of clean air. Also reminds me to repeat replacing fuel filter. Think of both air and fuel as in the computer term GIGO but in this case SISO (even when clean for most diesels), more air will give you more power and efficiency so more l/100km. If the car has sat with the same windscreen washer fluid for some time I have found it can have what I can only describe as clear snot it the system that can block the washer pump or nozzles. I have tried disconnecting the the system and running hot water through the various parts and tubes but one time I could only clear the system by replacing the hoses and nozzles as the snot just would not fully clear. For parts I would be careful with quality and prices certainly on sensors, again others on here can give you more info or you can read in the threads yourself. No not at all the older cars are not as heavy as later cars and these are two seaters so lower centre of gravity, no screaming at 60-70mph. The design, manufacture and compounds of the tyre are more important than the width. There used to be a great website that explained going up one or two section widths did not really give much bigger contact patches between tyre and road surface, beyond me to explain it well. My neighbour done this video for his YT channel for the model range, all done very quickly without preparation during one of the Covid periods, the car is on 5" (12.5cm) rim wheels but still with 145/80 r13 tyres and not particularly good ones at that, unfortunately that size of tyre tends to be on city cars. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GWowHiIktA

Bearing in mind it's the thermostat that controls the temperature and the fan reacts and helps out when things get too warm. I forgot to put fuel filter on the list, my car doesn't have one as standard but I added one in just before the carbs (wasteful but nice to hear) so I can at least see the petrol has made it that far and anything to ever save getting my hands dirty where possible. From what I have seen on here the Felicia engine seems to be very robust if perhaps sometimes chain noise, I get chain noise on mine at just below 2,000 rpm which is annoying as that is 30mph built-up area speed limit in 4th gear so I use 3rd. For oils and weights (grades) it can include personal choices and what I call oil beliefs, personally I would use a reasonable good engine oil for the first year just in case there are going to be leaks or other problems but after that I prefer high quality oils that offer a great range of protections and margins. For the transmission as usually it is very low quality and cost I put high quality in at first hot, long drain and flush. (or clean and flush if required and appropriate). For the tyres, at 7 years old they are not old and if they brake and handle well enough and have been kept in a garage but the low mileage and sitting static on them will do them no favours, might even be part of the vibration problem but you will find out when you have the wheels balanced (and perhaps check alignment). Personally I like to recycle where I can but I am not a fanatic about it so if I found the tyres unsuitable they would go, if anyone else could use them safely fine if not they would be recycled in standard industry ways. Believe me I have had two or three life time's worth of botches on cars most from professional and specialist experts in the motor trade, I am mentally debating about one only this morning. I could writes books (not just one) on the subject. If it wasn't for bad luck I would have no luck with cars. I had to look it up on my neighbour's website but the LDV 400 was post Leyland but obviously still full of Leyland. We used to have a place nearby that specialised in LDV, gone now of course. As for which BL car as a daily it depends what you wants and there's much similarities and sharing of parts but some models are a lot more popular so expensive to buy than others and the parts availability can be very limited on some and vast with the likes of older MGs for example. I can probably get more new parts and more easily for my 1973 MG than you can for the Felicia - but the quality of those new parts can range from poor to abysmal. For daily drives just off the top of my head Morris Minor, Triumph Dolomite (preferably Sprint), 1100 or 1300 (ADO16?) or a Rover P6, all very useable in modern times. The bits that you find archaic like hub caps, metal grille and OHV engine and what I like, my car has modern copy Minilite wheels but my previous 4-year older example I converted to 3.5" (9cm) rim steel wheels with chrome hub caps with 145/80 r13 tyres with a 15.5" (39.5cm) wire spoke steering wheel. My current car has the standard latter 15.5" steering wheel and despite it's size the the steering is very direct and responsive, takes a bit of push-feeding on very tight bends though. It also only has two seats, one door mirror (added), wind up windows, no radio, no cigar lighter ( previous model was without interior and boot light too), single speed wipers (but they do self-park), to turn the cabin heating on or off I have to lift the bonnet and turn a tap on the cylinder head, not so easy when it's hot, air-con and demisting is windows or roof down. There's no sound insulation, though I did add sound deadening sheets when I could not find a rattle which turned out to be the first thing I thought I had checked but had not, so I can hear the carb induction, tappets, gearbox, rear axle whine, single box exhaust and a couple of poor quality parts but with the roof down it's just mainly induction and exhaust.

I can only give general advice from about 30 years of running old over-valued and over-priced old cars (called "classics") as "dallies" rather than specific on your model as I don't know it (or much else really). I'm not a fan of Haynes and like all forms of information, including manufactures and suppliers databases, internet including here and me all contain errors and omissions. Personally I don't care how much tread is on old tyres if they're not been road used they can get hard so not perform as they should for braking, steering, suspension, road holding and handling and noise and comfort. Look for the date of manufacture code on them, might be on the inside wall of the tyres sometimes and report back if you want. I like to drive a car not go round like a maiden aunt off to church on a sunny Sunday so I want things to work well, I also can't stand unreliability (and I know all about that subject owning old BL cars). For brakes flush and change fluid change fluid, check discs/pads and callipers, spray clean, check drums and shoes, clean, lubricate adjust as required. Handbrake sounds good but clean/lubricate if required. Steering checks as per book plus if power steering flush clean and change of fluid - D.FYLAKTOS done this recently and was pleased with the results. I like to thoroughly clean the coolant heating system, clean, flush, back-flush, flush again with the system apart as much as possible/practical including the radiator, engine block, heater matrix, fan, check thermostat, drive belt, pressure cap, water pump, hoses and pipes. I hot drain, flush change gearbox and rear axle oils on my cars. Only Monday a mate called round to say how pleased he was with the difference in just changing his gearbox oil, his car is 26 years old with factory fill and I've only been trying to persuade him to do it for 10 years, otherwise he services his car every 6 months. When he got home he change the rear diff oil too using high quality oil I gave him 5 years ago to do the job. Engine is usual, definitely change the air filter. until you compare the one fitted to a new unused one it's difficult to see how dirty the existing one might be. I also like to do these things so that I know they were definitely done and when and (hopefully by me!?!) properly. Spark plugs I change, personally I prefer NGK as a brand (generally any genuine made Japanese parts for electrics/electronics). I also like to change HT leads as like spark plugs looking at them and testing them doesn't give you the full picture, just because they work doesn't mean they work well or constantly well and are not long passed their best, I like very much reliability, I always want to get the car home and have absolutely no interest in being a roadside repair hero, prevention is better than cure to me, I've had enough car repairs already to last me two or thee lifetimes. Things like exhaust or gasket blows become more apparent as the engine and other components get quieter from use and servicing, maintenance and repair so I just deal with those as they arise. You have sensors that can tell you things too. Lubricating cables and levers in the engine (and elsewhere) can often help with odd problems. I clean the light lenses inside and out and the electric connections and coat them, I want to see and been seen, I work my way round other electric connections as they come up or I can-be-arsed. I regularly test the horns and wipers because I drive the car and sometimes in England it rains. That's enough for now, other than I recommend not spending any money on "improvements" or "upgrades", especially cosmetic, unless a part or component needs replacing because that money may be needed for other unexpected work and also what you think you might want to change on the car you may not later once you know the car more, many "improvements" and "upgrades" can often turn out not to be and even not as good as what they replaced, I've had that t-shirt and worn it out. Best tuning for the car is always to keep up with regular servicing and maintenance and repairs, you can't do further successful tuning without this.

I always recommend doing a full 60,000km service/check staggered between using the car on regular and frequent reasonable length journeys that was way you get used to the car, find out what needs sorting and what can be lived with whilst the car exercises out some issues or highlights them more. A good service can greatly improve how the car runs but most people get the priorates totally wrong thinking engine and carb fiddling comes first when priority should be to brakes, steering, suspension, (all three include tyres) electrical safety items (lights, wipers, horn, etc.). If the engine runs you can deal with the other items, the engine doesn't have to be running perfectly to have the car running, this of course is part of the problem why it can be neglected from running fully well. I always give some priority to the car battery and its connections, cables, earths, etc., as with the old(er) cars often if you can get them running you car get them home and you can sort electrical or starting issues a lot easier with a good battery in good condition and state of charge and with good connections. So many problems and issues can stem from a poor battery, the more so the newer the car but still on older cars too. It might depend what cars you are used to driving as to how the Felicia feels to you but driving it more and servicing, maintenance and repairs should improve the feel (and you'll get used to it more) small items and changes can make a bit difference, just because a part is working doesn't mean it's working well or hasn't gone way passed its optimum use or reasonable good working life. I drive a car from 1973 with an engine designed from the late 1940s and then drive a 2015 Skoda Fabia with VW engine and there are not massive differences in vibration (the VW is perhaps the disappointing one). Old dirty engine oil could make a difference to the running of the engine, you've changed the oil (and hopefully filter) already but depending on how this new oil looks on the dipstick I would be tempted to do another hot long drain and refill with fresh oil (and filter change) after x-hundreds of km using the present oil as a running cleaning flush. For engine servicing/tuning I'm with you starting with the valves clearances moving on to ignition, timing, fuelling. Much servicing, maintenance and repairs can often boil down to clean and lubricate, boring and unsexy but very necessary and often very effective. Some photos are always interesting but can also help as those that know the model (not me) can sometimes spot anomalies with your car that might be significant when sorting it.

Have a look and search in the Classic Škoda section and RWD Skodas and historics for information and post there for more information, click any of the (repeated links) here or find them on the 'Forums' list on the 'Home' page. Classic Škoda - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/173-classic-škoda/ RWD Skodas and historics - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/30-rwd-skodas-and-historics/

Hi, welcome, I think you're posting rather than blogging but I might be wrong. If you know any Porsche (911, 912) owners you must let them know of your purchase. I think there's a Hub Nut video of the last one built. You would be best served to visit https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/30-rwd-skodas-and-historics/ (video might be there too).

Just remembered, for those that aren't used to key blades, and the preparation time for the activity. -

Brake Disc Type - Solid, Surface - Coated. Outer diameter - 236 mm, Brake Disc Thickness - 13 mm, Height - 46 mm, Rim - 4-Hole, Bolt Hole Circle Ø - 100 mm, Centering Diameter - 62 mm - if that matches what others have that is good.

(ETA: see also next post.) For my wife's remote, the Driver's Handbook (Operating Instructions) will guide (see below). Another tip, don't have a car remote and a spare have two that you use alternatively (at whatever time gap suits you) on the car, that way the remotes wear evenly and you always know where the "spare" remote is and that it works.

Up to you. I saw you put about cleaning the throttle body, I'm a big fan of this sort of thing, as well as covering the basics like servicing and maintenance before moving on to other more sexy, manly, technical stuff . So what servicing and maintenance, new parts perhaps, have you done to the car, I'm sure you're not one of these that thinks a (cold) quick engine oil (and perhaps filter) is a full car service so what have you already done? As you have possibly seen in other threads getting the correct parts and ones that are well made and reliable, can be very important. Much servicing, maintenance and repairs on cars often boils down to cleaning and lubricating, mechanically and even electronically sometimes. Just using the car fully frequently can often ease or sort some issues, or make them worse and perhaps easier to pin down.