nta16

Don't make any assumptions, check everything, but I've just read you're taking it to a garage so if they're any good they should sort it whatever it is. On a car with that sort of mileage and age there could be so many contributing factors too. Brakes, steering and suspension are all affected by the tyres but also the wheels play a factor and brakes, steering and suspension are very important so best that things are sorted before they go too far. As I put I can't see buckled wheels helping with fair wear and tear. Have you checked other suspension items as well, perhaps bushes, even engine mounts bushings, wear in one item can promote wear in others and you can get an accumulated effect that can be more difficult to pin down. If you could borrow a suitable set of other wheels with tyres to test drive on that might help to narrow things down. Be interesting to see what the garage find.

I was thinking of vibrating feel to the brake pedal but I suppose with the remoteness and all the computers of a modern car that might not apply. So not high mileage then, and I get the higher tyre pressure to the front for heavy engine but does the actual Driver's Handbook, or on the car give a 5 psi difference front to rear (rather than web info). With the decades old fashion for big wide wheels and wide ultra low profile tyres that often actually add more unsprang weight unless the wheels are a lot lighter, and this often means the wheels are less robust. So more wheel and less tyre to cushion road the tyre, wheel and car from impacts and more noticeable wobbles perhaps. You are taking nearside as nearest the kerb (in UK).

Yes a much more interesting video for me, but more humorous than informative. I have seen that site before and like all forums it has lots of levels of information and the quality and correctness of that information - bear in mind I am not an expert in anything and make many mistakes regularly so I am not throwing stones. Why even think about these things until you have fully tested what you already have, or you get a significant proven fail on something. You seem to have a car/fuel consumption dysphoria, when you get your home fuel bills you can concentrate your thoughts and actions on reducing your consumption there. 😄

Tom, sorry I thought you meant you'd changed your wheels around originally and then misread it, so my fault. Generally in my experience wheel bearings aren't intermittent, something else may be adding to the sound and/or making it louder or different sound though. A few questions then. Have you checked front and rear brakes? How does the brake pedal feel when you brake? How does the steering wheel feel when wheels wobble and you hear the sounds - and when braking? And to confirm, what car is this? Are you doing lots of mileage? What size wheels and tyres? Does the noise vary you you turn sharp or on tight bends so one side is loaded with weight more than the other if so which corner. I think, it might be a wheel bearing too but not sure about that more with new tyres on buckled wheels it might be that causing the noise and/or other.

On the road unless you're towing something heavy or you want to go rounds bends at very high speeds - none. You also don't want to be looking at a VRs model, that model is usually for those that like to drive hard and fast so isn't set up for economy and will often be more worn if driven hard and fast. Also be aware diesels aren't so good for lots of short journeys as they used to be, same with newer petrols', not that lots of short journeys have even been good for them.

Sorry I got a bit lost, is this it or have I got it wrong,. - You have been back to the tyre place and they have moved tyres they originally fitted to different wheels (offside front and rear), then used spare wheel as offside front keeping tyres in same position. I must have this wrong(?), misunderstood(?). New Uniroyal Rainsport 5 fitted to front in December - wheels (plural) vibrated before and after fitting - were the balance weights changed with tyres or just added to, are there a lot of balance weights? Surely the tyre fitted would have pointed out to you that your wheels are buckled and he'd have a hard job balancing them rather than he could balance out buckles, what sort of place did you go to? Avon ZV7 on rear - worn down to legal limit of 1.6mm(?) in wet Wales and they were on the rear? 35psi front, 30 psi rear - is that usual by the Handbook? So now you have front - Uniroyals, 35psi, plenty of tread (?). - Rear Avons, 30psi worn down to legal limit? If you have tyre, wheel or brake problems at the rear you feel it through the car but if you have tyre, wheel, suspension, steering problems at the front you will feel it at the front perhaps the effect dampened by the power steering - but it's possible to have problems both front and rear. Some of it might just be your new tyres and mixing old with new. New tyres, Uniroyals have been mentioned before, seem now to be very loose at the tread and/or sidewalls and take quite a while to wear in (mine Continentals took at least a 1,000 miles before they didn't feel wobbly and more to settle and I had a set of four). Mixing new deeper less worn tread with older worn tread is one factor, mixing different makes and/or model of tyres is another factor so you're by a factor of two just with this. Then you have different tyre pressures to different tyres too but also buckled wheel(s) and possibly more, Subject to the condition of your wheels I think IF your Avons are worn down to the legal limit (in wet Wales) then replacing them with new Uniroyal Rainsport 5 of exactly the same model as the front and allowing a reasonable mileage for the tread to wear in, say up to or more than 1,000 miles, and having all four tyres to the Handbook tyre pressures you may find things improve a lot - subject to how buckled your wheels are and how well the wheels have all been balanced.

Cheapest, easiest, quickest thing to check is whether the car battery is low in charge or poor condition, or poor condition of battery clamps (loose), post to clamps have crud/muck/crap, condition of cables and wires and their connections including earths, all need to be clean, secure and protected. If your battery is low then you need to know why - short journeys and/or heavy use or battery or charging system fault. Just because the car starts and the lights seem OK doesn't mean the battery isn't low or other stuff I've listed above. My elderly neighbour started his car (twice) on the drive today just to run the engine on the hardstanding (I wish he wouldn't as it just takes drains the battery more and does next to nothing for the engine or car), I checked his battery after (lot) less than 50% so it's on slow trickle recharge in my shed now. Very small battery so it might be fully charged by tomorrow afternoon or early evening.

If you haven't got the Driver's Handbook with all the info such as all the warning lights, bells and whistles you can download a PDF copy from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Buckled wheel won't be doing any favours, if they're not bad put them both on the back and provided the current rear wheels aren't in the same state putting them to the front should tell you if the noise was the (previous front) wheels/tyres. When moving the wheels around take a good look at the whole of the wheel inside and out and the tyre tread all round the tyre and the inside and outside tyre walls, do this for all four wheels and tyres. Check all the tyre pressures too. If they're two, three or four different makes or models of tyres and ages that can sometimes add fun too, especially if there's an odd size of wheel or tyre in there too, so you could also check the numbers on all the wheels match. If you put up some side on shots of the wheels (not in portrait please) and tyres of anything you're not sure about it might help.

The only promotional video I saw was nothing like that, it was all about the company and not any product.

If you're going to disconnect the battery you might as well charge it with an appropriate charger at the same time, not a booster charge and if possible preferably a long, low, slow recharge as it goes deeper than a quick, high fast charge. When the battery is disconnected, turn the ignition on to the setting that would allow the brake lights to work if the battery was connected and press the brake pedal down for about 10 seconds as this will empty stored electric in the computers which may reset the airbag light on reconnecting the battery. You'll also need to reset the the time of day clock, well I did on my wife's 2015 Fabia.

Well done. Distressing to see a man of your years using a power tool on so few such small screws. 😁 For the airbag, like a blown fuse you really need to know why before replacing, or resetting in this case, but it will require a scan tool if it doesn't go off by itself - BUT - did you perhaps turn the passenger airbag off with the key blade, if not what did you do to get this light on?

Gawd, you're a smooth talking devil, I've garn all giggly, you already know how emotional and irrational I am, I fear you're trying to take advantage of my innocence. I think I've got Super-Flex on my car, can't remember now, but they're been fine (AFAIK) for 12 years IIRC. I've had a lot of trouble with ****-poor rubbish rubber car parts over the years and have little faith in too many car manufacturers doing a lot better.

Yes of course (generally, there are a few exceptions) and Honda - there are very good reasons for this, they make good long lasting cars (not usually exciting). Lower will be the German cars despite what many will say, and many on here, don't be fooled by old out of date reputations of build quality and reliability - otherwise you'd never look at a Skoda. Avoid vanity marques the owners pretend they're so good only to keep the resale prices up. BUT it's all about condition and history (if any is relevant and available) particularly more recent. And bear in mind a very well made car in the hands of poor quality owners can end up bad and not so well made cars with really good owners could be much better prospects. You won't get much for your money if you don't widen your choices and mind, don't worry about pleasing others with the maker's badge on your car. Old vehicles, perhaps even older than you think old, before the insane amount of computers can be good to run, less to go wrong with less computers too. You may be better off buying an 'unpopular' make and/or model that is lowed priced only for the reason of popularity - Britain is very snobbish, many here will remember when Skoda was literally a joke to the British, well media with other manufacture's advertising to consider. The popular cars are often so not for good reasons. And it might be you get better value by buying a vehicle below your £1,500 budget, but even if you had a much higher budget it's all a bit of a gamble, less so for an old Lexus, Toyota or Honda. Cabin room can vary greatly with some smaller cars having almost as much as the bigger cars, some 5 seater cars are more accommodating than others with even some large car cabins not being roomy for all and comfortable 4 seaters with an uncomfortable 5th seat. With a limited budget running costs are also a lot more important, real world mpg (not made up VW and others stuff), road tax, insurance and as you well known costs of servicing, maintenance and repairs, parts costs and availability. Based on the two 20 year old Toyotas I know, which are used and just about annually serviced and almost really nothing more during ,and the 19 year old Honda, that's where I'd start but also look at weird names the key-ring pub car bores don't have, Ssangyong even done 7-seaters but do your research, I've not had a 4-seater since my Capri. 😄

You have slightly diluted the reassurance by including the national thinking, but I fink I no wot yu mean.

Why? Why are you looking at such things? You have already tried and used two products and perhaps decided that mixing different additives in different manufacturers' products might not always end well. You do not have the facilities to do a full cleansing flush and full emptying of existing liquids in your cooling/heating system. DEi appear to be another company that gives no detail to their figures, 50% what of what and when, under what circumstances, avoiding the American monster corporation that is Amazon and going to the supplier's own site and it tells you so little about the product. - https://www.designengineering.com/heater-hotter/ I think you might be looking for a level of solution to a level of problem that does not exist. VW and other manufacturers test their engines in lot colder and hotter climates than your car is in, do you hear of this cold problem from Felicia owners than use their Felicias in much colder climates than yours?

Whatever it is it's probably not serious or have any lasting effects so don't be downhearted. A good person with the help of a good scan tool and their good knowledge and experience will be able to help you, a very rough idle can be from many things which are easily sorted.

Interesting, have you used them a lot / for a long time (to confirm quality and longevity)? I was driving the Fabia yesterday and a knock is annoying me, though it might be a gearbox mount as my wife thought it was passenger side and she's normally good at where the noise is from and what it is if we've had had the same noise before, I don't locate it so well or remember what it sounded like before.

raky, you've had some good advice from here, and from me, I don't always misremember or get things wrong (even if/when others think or say I have) so do consider and follow up on any/all the advice you have been given from all here. The exhaust mess that was spewed on to your drive/hardstanding didn't look nice and something that needed sorting. Good luck let us know how you get along.

Probably be counterfeit. 😄 I have a very unfortunate knack of finding those that would normally be at least reasonable if not good and then something happens to them or someone close to them. I warn them now that taking on my car could be bad for their health or fortune. Certainly has been for me and my VERY. VERY, reluctant work on it. I got to the stage where I thought if I have to employ someone to do poor quality work it might as well be me, at least I don't pay much for labour (though the rate per hour/day would be very low base on the time a job takes to complete) and when the job is finished (or part finished) and where the bodges are. About 15-20 years ago I had a distrusting mate who was loosely associated with the motor and he marked up bits on his wife's Vauxhall as it was going into the local Dealership as he didn't have time to do the work and when his wife went to collect the car there was a tale of some additional work required that needed doing very soon. He checked the car and not only was the additional not needed something(s) on the service hadn't been replaced but charged for. He got his money back, apology and offer of a free-service time. He always recommended the 'foreman' and mechanic that set up as independents that left a Dealership as they could no longer take what they were being asked and told to do with customers' vehicles. I've found this too, particularly with Dealership salesmen, if they seem too decent to be doing that job they often leave after a reasonably short time of taking the job. I personally know that some in the trade think customers are something they've stepped in and wiped off the sole of their boot. There are some good ones but you can never get near them as they have more work than they want or need and a waiting list for their services.

For some reason I had a feeling you were South Yorkshire which is just about East Midlands in parts, (and not "real" Yorkshire as the old Yorkshire folk will tell you), Northampton being East Midlands, Midlands or Anglia or even London depending which way you used to point the old TV aerials. Just disconnecting and reconnecting some electrical connections a good few times can sometimes help clean them up but you can not do it with these sort of connectors at this age as they would break as soon as look at you. 😄 So if they're apart and I can spray them, in a good way, why not. Sorry I've no idea what ELM app Torque Lite (OBD2 & Car) can and cannot see, whatever scan tool clearing a code is not the same necessarily as sorting the issue and just because no codes are showing does not mean the car is fine and running well, do not put all your reliance on these magic numbers and the machines that show them. All these things are mainly computer programs, now think about it how often do computer programs need repairing themselves, then there is how good the program is anyway and how reliable the information it receives, particularly from cheap unreliable sensors, or car systems with electrical or communication wiring/connector faults. Put all your eggs in one basket and you have scratchy omelettes. It would be interesting to connect up three or four of these machines and Apps, update all and compare the figures they give from a car that's not running well, allowing for variations in when they are plugged in and the car's and other variations of back to back comparisons they should all show about the same but would they. If you're disconnecting the battery you might as well charge it up at the same time, a battery in good state of charge and health will help with starting and problem solving electrical and starting issues particularly whereas a battery in low or lower state of charge and health could hinder and even add problems. All your battery, cables, earths wires and connections want to be in good condition and clean, secure and protected for best running and results. If you want the battery disconnected to clear anything (if it can be) then turn on the ignition so that the brake lights would have been working had the battery been connected and press and hold the brake pedal for say a count of five or ten, or your lucky number above five if you want. Check your coolant level with the engine now 'cold' too, how does it compare to when it was last checked 'cold'. Personally I have next to no knowledge to share but if I can (bear to sometimes) remember I have quite a few experiences with cars and the motor trade, unfortunate mostly, so have some basic generalisations but like ALL others I make mistakes, many times in my case and often forget or remember things arse-about-face, so check and cross reference all information you get, especially from me.

Not all bodgers work for lower prices, some com-artists charge high and may even have a reputation for good work, con-artists know about PR and how to market and sell themselves. As you've found it was a cheap job but not inexpensive because you have had to redo it and it could have had worse consequences. The car trade is full of many such people I'm afraid. ☹️

raky you need to go to a good mechanic, probably a woman as less testosterone and ego, certainly a mechanic that spends more time scratching their head than their arse. A good mechanic with a proper level scan tool can read off the information that a good level scan tool gives and using their experience and knowledge (and sometimes training) do proper diagnosis to the problem, this not just reading off error codes and replacing sensor(s). This will include integrating the scan tool, physical checks to electrics, electronics and mechanics. By just changing sensor(s) you could just be shooting the messenger(s) rather than resolving anything plus you could be changing a good functioning reliable long lasting sensor for something that is unreliable, and as you have found already short lived, so instead of improving the situation making it worse. Personally other than as perhaps a code reader I would not be putting too much faith in something like an ELM37. I have no idea what the 'rubber' hose is at the start of your video in your post yesterday at 00:23 but there is some sort of marking on it, might be nothing, and also what looks like it might be cracking which again might be nothing but these are the sort of visual checks at least that a good mechanic will include (even if they do not mention them). Car design and build is full of lots of compromise and stupid ideas like plastic connectors on too shorter wires in the tough environment of an engine bay is one of those compromises, some manufacturers carry out a lot more compromises than others it would seem. Based on the photos, to me, as not even at the level of an arse-scratching mechanic, and certainly not an expert in anything, they look fine. On checking connectors, did you visually check, and if required clean, internally (pins and sockets) and externally, that's where I use electrical contact cleaner and if those stupid designed connectors feel like they either will not part or break when using fingers or screwdriver a small brush and GT85 to help release them. As your location is UK you will be able to perhaps find someone nearby with a better scan tool that may be able to help you at least get better scanned information, if you are near Northampton I might know someone. Plugging a machine in and reading the information is very easy and can be done from the warmth and comfort of the cabin or inside a building with tea and biccies and doesn't involve any nasty dirtying of hands, anything that involves messing up a manicure is for yourself and others.

Yes sorry I got the letters mixed up again. My mate's boss's BX was all black hatch so looked looked smaller in my memory than your BX, I looked the model up this time to check and it was the 16v but it didn't have the GTi on the back just 16v. As I remember it plastic dash and bonnet, when my mate had it near top speed (stereotypical rep driving of the time) the dash and bonnet shook and I asked what the brakes were like so he jumped on them and my nose was almost on the dash, when he lifted off the brakes it seemed like we were crawling and I noticed we we actually still at about 90 (kph of course). I was lent the car to get home and when I returned at about 5 am I thought I'd warm it up on the then empty dual-carriageway (hard to imagine now) and I discovered this straight road I often travelled actually had a curve to it at high speed. I had a Skoda Estelle 2 at the time. He only had the BX for a few months IIRC but my mate did drive me down some quiet excellent twisty country roads I knew and boy was it quick on them too, no silly speeds just handled well and quick on those roads too. I took him to Lanarkshire Sheriff's Court from Northampton in my Estelle with a very noisy wheel bearing so I wouldn't go above 60nph, the constant lower speed drove him mad not the noise but we'd left so early anyway we still arrived an hour before the court opened and had time for breakfast in a tea room with net curtains IIRC. He had the AA represent him, he'd been clocked by IIRC a Scottish Police VASCAR at over 100mph, no surprise he lost his driving license, that was for the first time. Later a very early adopted of the likes of Road Angel.

In that case you won't be aware that I never put that it might have failed or to replace it, I did put clean it which IIRC you and/or others have said will achieve very little or nothing - which is fair enough. I was still surprise by your lack of full commitment, are you feeling alright, normally you are certain and decisive. I'd still be interested in which body part you'd guarantee that there won't be anything wrong with the MAP (and how loose you could be with that definition in a lightening strike chance there was). I bet my left testicle that if the MAP is cleaned along with other work and the problem is resolved that it was the MAP cleaning wot wun it. I know you don't see the need but I have to put similes so others can see I'm just having banter with you, I was surprised by the "almost" though. 😁