nta16

With my old car I have 4/60 air-con, open 4 windows and go at 60. Try starting with it at screen, and not recirculating, and see if that's better before switching to face. I loathe to get into a hot cabin, with the Fabia I have to open the door(s) then put the key in to turn the ignition on to drop the (front) windows with the door(s) open to let some hot air out before I get in the car. Normally I don't like having the air-con on but for a hot interior it's a must, if possible.

Sorry if it's a Mk3 I forgot about all the manufacturers and dealership delays. On my wife's 2015 I always find it more effective to set it to windscreen to feel the cold air sooner from start, I turn off the recirculating and got to fan speed 2, the car's owner doesn't like the noise on speeds 3 and 4 anyway even if I instruction that the passenger shouldn't interfere with the driver's controls.

That was my only idea, other than perhaps drawing attention to your thread to those that might know. Now we wait.

Have you tried another scan tool?

The sources I meant are here. If you're bugging Pete too much I'm sure he'll let you know. You can get all sorts of info from various sources for free or at a cost, some with and others without helpful guidance and experience. The chaps here will know the reliable other sources, luckily I've not had the need yet, I'd have to search for myself or hope my neighbour is up to date with fees for a pro-system that may have its own errors and omissions -not that I'd want to or know how to chase down wiring/programing issues.

I have no clue about this one but generally I've found Haynes manuals have errors and omissions (not that manufacturer's workshop manuals don't) but updated databases should probably be corrected and have less, stick with a good source of info - but obviously all sources need cross referencing and checking as much as possible - especially if from my direction.

Sorry, I wouldn't have a clue but Pete is very knowledgeable and has access to the information, and knows how to use it, I'd just be swearing and crying about this from the very start. I think you're doing very well, just I'd remind you not to make any assumptions and doublecheck what you've already doublechecked. If you can break things down into manageable chunks otherwise it can be easy to get lost or forget - well for me anyway.

I can't see a UK Dealership wanting the dip beam headlights to always be on with side lights I'd have thought it's a fault of some sort.

Hi, welcome. Check your Owner's Manual (page 57 in ours) you'll find that's the case and as on another recent thread you need the ignition on to open or close the electric windows. Although at times badly written if you read and later as required refer to the Owner's Manual you can learn a lot about your car, sometimes more than some long term owners known. If you don't have a paper printed copy of the Owner's Manual or want a second electronic version you can download from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models You can get some software updates from here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And when VW/Skoda feel inclined, recall actions here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions HTH.

Well perhaps VW are giving some premium to their named marque - 2015 Fabia Mk3, 1.3 SE, engine off and no doors opened the electric windows (front only on my wife's car) do not operate until the ignition is turned back on. ETA: and only work when the ignition is turned on, not for any period after ignition is off.

There will be sound business reasons why this is offered, it will make the businesses involved (manufacturer, dealer, finance company) additional profits from offering this as some people may think they'll take advantage as those here have but many others for many reasons will not and slip into paying intertest for much longer or full period of the agreement. Paying by instalments, and the, usually, high rate of interest in small less noticeable chunks in habit forming to many and can lead to more frequent vehicle changes. Many purchasers turn a blind eye and deaf ear to the full amount of interest paid in the agreement.

My wife's April 2015 built Mk3 is the same - annoys us both, I at least have the excuse that my car has wind up door windows (and swivel) so I'm not used to this modern car tyranny.

I thought it was a new part or NOS, though both can give faulty parts. It worked when tested before fitting but obviously not now. I mean disregard them for your testing of parts and combination of parts, you do not know when and by how much either of these faults started and progressed. With the air box you can at least go back to how it was for many years before and now you are using a more reliable and robust paper air filter. The quest continues.

For the cold starts it would depend on how much heat the engine lost or gained from where it is parked, and other factors, 15 hours to some days could have lots of variables. The consumption figures with the fuel leak and air filter fault have to be disregarded for your original purpose of measuring them. With the time of year on balance you would probably be best with the flap at open until you can work something out. Why is it not working, is it its thermostat faulty or something mechanical stuck. Could you convert it from thermostat control to manually controlled with perhaps a cable to open and close it from inside the car.

Thanks. I did think about posting an image of the info from the Owner's Manual but I couldn't remember seeing it in my quick look, I do remember seeing something about not being able to lock the doors if one door is open. As can be seen I'm a big fan of reading the Operating Instructions but I do find the Fabia ones seem to have been written by a German apprentice engineer then possibly translated to Chinese before translated to English, I often read them and think that doesn't make sense there must be typos -but I can't be the first to throw stones about that.

Yes, sorry, I was being sarcastic about the often annoying (and devious) VW computer programing, there's usually/probably info and warning on this in the Owner's Manual.

All being well the bodger only done a bit of work. The reversing lights fuse also popping might be a coincidence but whatever is on that fuse will need checking for unwanted interference and 'repairs'. If you're lucky one wrong wire or connection can cause a range of issues. Could be worse, you could be colour-blind. 😃

From the owner's Manual (2016/11). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models "The electrical power windows can only be operated when the ignition is switched on." "Only version 2 [4 powered windows, I think] of the power windows is equipped with the power limiter (does not apply to the passenger window)." "The electric power windows are deactivated after the vehicle battery has been disconnected. After connecting the vehicle battery, the system is activated as follows. › Switch on the ignition. › Pull the top edge of the button and close the window. › Release the button. › Pull up the respective button and hold for 1 second." "Switching on /off ignition in vehicles with starter button › Press the» Fig. 114 - [B] button, the ignition is turned on / off. On vehicles with manual transmission the pedal must not be depressed to switch on / off the ignition, otherwise the engine will start. On vehicles with automatic transmission, the brake pedal must not be depressed to switch on / off the ignition, otherwise the engine will start."

You want better than just a cheap error code reader type of scan tool for these type of issues, multimeter might be handy but things can get complicated (much too much so for the likes of me often). Having a suitable brand new battery is good, bear in mind though that it can still be depleted (hopefully not with this issue) and still needs good electrical connections. When following possible bodge and/or poor quality work more than usual you need to assume nothing and not overlook the very basics, sometimes things can be overlooked because you can't imagine that something would need checking or could be done wrong or in such a fashion. You also need to factor in for more than one issue or cause and chain or cross effects. Also check and recheck everything including any new parts, I've had faulty or broken new bulbs and even an intermittent fuse (few will believe that) and lots of other faulty new parts, such is the rush to the bottom of parts quality. Hopefully it'll be one issue that can easily be sorted, good luck, my knowledge is far too limited to be of much use other than general experience of following on from poor quality work and bodges (sometimes mine).

When looking for any electrical and/or starting issues it's always best to have the car battery in a good condition and state of charge (and the connections and earths) otherwise progress and diagnostics could be hindered particularly if the process drags on a long while and other issues could be introduced. When fuses blow you're best to find out why before replacing them - but sometimes you have to replace them to progress - however you found the previous wiring was wrong and corrected it would probably be the way to precede now. Two fuses blowing seems more than a coincidence. Do you have access to a scan tool to check the readings. Good luck, others will probably be back and along later that can help you.

I would add that if you may be following someone who has wired stuff wrong you may not be able to follow the book (even if they are badly written and contain errors and unstated variances). You must also hope they've not been playing with any computer settings too, doubtful if they can't follow the wiring properly but you never know. The central locking not operating after numerous repeated pushes might just be the computer program being outwitted (or who knows, even design) I'd not tempt fate by annoying any of the computer programs. Would the central locking work with a door open anyway (I don't know the answer on this model). Good camera angle on video. 👍

I can't find info on Hankook UK but this from where tyres are spelt with an 'i' (Jun 19th 2019) - "The Ventus V12 Evo2 was designed with Alignment Indicators, which are located on its shoulders. The tire’s shoulders feature four dots parallel to one another (two on each shoulder), at specific intervals throughout the tire’s shoulder. The manner in which they wear out represents the vehicle’s alignment. If the two parallel indicators wear in the same manner, it means the tire has a good alignment and the tire tread wear is even. However, when there is a difference between the two parallel indicators the tire is wearing in an uneven manner and the vehicle’s alignment should be checked. This features enables the driver to detect irregular tread wear and remedy the issue on time, to extend the tread life and the tire’s usability." -https://www.prioritytire.com/blog/hankook-ventus-v12-evo2-review/

" . . . somebody had wired it wrong . . ." I think that might be a clue, or the switch is broken/faulty, (ETA: or bypassed?) - have a look at the wiring behind the light switch. A great idea to do a video, if you also hold the phone to landscape, instead of portrait, you will get more into the frame which can sometimes be very helpful too.

I'm a bit lost as to what you have and mean but this from 2011/11 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models And time to playing silly-buggers with computer programmers of the period. -