nta16

Checking the battery is cheap, quick and easy and your hands don't get too dirty so it'd be first on my list (but then the battery is one of my hobbyhorses, for good reason). Checking the pump is another subject and second step after fully confirming battery and and charging system and all connections are good and fully working. Flush clean and changing the fluid depending on its how old and dirty will help a bit but will not overcome a system with other problems but it will help in itself and provide some preventative maintenance. If changing the pump I'd have thought you'd want the pump internals clean and as much else of the system clean and with clean fresh fluid to do the job in a better fashion.

My wife gave me an old travel one then I bought a cheap one just for DIY use as the travel one wasn't powerful enough. A lot of macho blokes have a hair dryer for their hair-dos, or if bald/shaved head for drying their chest hair perhaps.

One thing to note is that the handling, ride, comfort and noise of a tyre has a lot to do with its design and manufacturer rather than just the size. A cheap make and/or model of tyre will possibly be hard wearing on the tread (but might develop cracks inside the tread and/or sidewalls sooner) but may well give less grip, handling, comfort and more noise. A better quality designed and made make and/or model of tyre with help with braking, steering, suspension, handling and ride quality and noise. As with a lot of things in life don't just go on size only.

If you have a hairdryer with concentrator nozzle in the household then you have a "heat gun" for most purposes you will need.

A high resolution (landscape not portrait please) photo, with if possible editing to highlight the possible crack/seam, might save confusion and provide a resolve.

As I posted this elsewhere on site recently copy and paste of it. - It should also be noted that fine wire plugs should be gapped with the correct tool and that even when brand new the gap should be checked. Also if the vehicle is modified the plug gap may need adjusting to allow for the modifications. 5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS (NGK) - https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs SHOULD I GAP MY DENSO PLUGS? (Fine Wire Plugs / Modified Vehicles) – https://www.densoproducts.com/should-i-gap-my-denso-plugs CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPARK PLUG GAP TOOL (Champion) – https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-gap-tool.html Spark Plug Gap - NGK Spark Plugs - Tech Video –

It should also be noted that fine wire plugs should be gapped with the correct tool and that even when brand new the gap should be checked. Also if the vehicle is modified the plug gap may need adjusting to allow for the modifications. SHOULD I GAP MY DENSO PLUGS? (Fine Wire Plugs / Modified Vehicles) – https://www.densoproducts.com/should-i-gap-my-denso-plugs CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPARK PLUG GAP TOOL (Champion) – https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-gap-tool.html 5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS (NGK) - https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs Spark Plug Gap - NGK Spark Plugs - Tech Video –

A very small constant leak can add up to a fair amount but as you do not know when it started you cannot know, but it does not matter now anyway as long as you have stopped it.

This is good value, 5 Guarantee too (and money off at the present time), I've had their Enduroline battery on my car for over 5 years now and it's been fine. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/enduroline/096-agm/ For all those that want to recharge the battery in a great hurry note the Yuasa recommended their YBX9096 battery is charged at 4 amps. YUASA_YBX9096_DATASHEET.pdf

Fair enough, same as before then, for some reason I did not think the weather was as warm as usual I must have got mixed up with elsewhere. We will see in x-months time.

So @D.FYLAKTOS it has been a couple of weeks now are you able to say if the change of lambda and plugs has solved your cold start and given you the improvement in fuel consumption you wanted? And will you try the iridium plugs with the new NGK lambda to see if this makes matters better, same or worse or will you not bother and give the iridium plugs away to someone else?

I had my wife's Fabia Mk3 replacement Bosch S5A05 battery, from Tayna, coded by someone using an OBD Eleven, as has been said the Ah rate and one digit change to serial number is required and if changing from EFB to AGM too. The factory three character coding for the original (Moll?) battery was 'JCB' which I think can be kept as the computer doesn't care and I can't see it mattering to the computer program but ours was changed to 'BOSCH' which isn't three characters and Bosch is just a brand label stuck on the battery anyway, I'm told the battery is actually a Varta. I was also told that 'fleece' is the correct term for the AGM battery type and not 'AGM', ours was input with a capital 'F' as in 'Fleece' rather than all lower case but I've no idea if this makes any difference. The battery has been fitted for 11 months now on a car that does a lot of short journeys and everything seems fine but when I borrow a higher level scan tool for other coding I might change from 'BOSCH' to 'JCB' to keep the factory three character code and have 'fleece' all in lower case and see if either makes any difference. VW seem to have made all their computer programs over-complicated, interconnected, and with the battery system particularly, intrusive, perhaps it was practice and cover for the dieselgate cheating. Sorry to make things as clear as mud but it seems the way with VW. Adaptation Control unit: 19 Gateway Name: Battery_Adaption Values: Battery_capacity: Old value: 59 New value: 60 Battery_manufacturer: Old value: JCB New value: BOSCH Battery_serial_number: Old value: 1111111111 New value: 1111111112 Battery_technology: Old value: EFB New value: Fleece Mileage: 38907 mi Date: 2021-06-25 10:30:01

Never mind just the engine, what on earth has made you change from a Honda or Toyota to a VW!? These cars are far from simple and will require more looking after and parts than a Honda or Toyota. Do you perhaps not keep your cars long. Welcome to the world of German cars, it's different to Toyota and Honda as you'll no doubt discover. I've got an old MG now, decades back I had another old MG and I used to go over to the MG Owners Club garage sometimes and they had a new garage manager start from outside instead of promoting an excellent and thorough mechanic, so the mechanic left to set up his own business. I was talking to the new guy and he said he used to be a workshop manager at a Honda Dealership and coming to the classic & modern (MG/Rover) MG garage had been a BIG eye opener to him, he couldn't believe the difference.

If you have followed all of the good advice above, timely engine oil & filter changes with good quality oil, use good quality petrol, have changed air filter and plugs, then you could look at cleaning the throttle body (and MAF). Let us know what you do and how you got on otherwise the subject will remain unanswered here.

That's very interesting, having had abysmal parts quality with classic car parts for a long time I've wondered why this hasn't also happened to newer car parts quality given the same mindset of the bigger businesses. Have them made, very, cheap, pile them high and get them sold. As with the Skoda name and brand previously it takes a long time to lose a poor or bad reputation but unfortunately it takes even longer to loose an undeserved good reputation. Since at least the end of the 80s I've not understood this idea of German engineering excellence in the cars, with many owners ignoring or keeping quiet about the problems with the cars, especially with the more prestige marques, so that they could keep resale values high. English dealerships, for any marque, have never helped themselves, or rather have always helped themselves too much before the merry go-round of dealership ownership stopped and started again, did counterfeit parts really get into Dealership stocks, wouldn't surprise an old cynic like me. Those that want everything very cheap get what they deserve, unfortunately so do the rest of us.

I'm not sure that is the case as I'm almost sure I've had part-hour charge fairly recently but as I can't remember when or what perhaps it's not as recently as I think. Generally overall I've not had good experiences from dealing with the motor trade overall but do know this is a generalisation and I have had good experiences and good quality of work and meet some good people in the motor trade and I have always promoted them but particularly good mechanics need very little promotion as they get more work than they can handle or want anyway. I told one chap he must put his prices up to get rid of the few moaning something-for-nothing customers that were dragging him back and down, guess who was first with his price increase, twice, and I was glad to pay it. I used to drive a couple of other mates cars there for them and the irony of when I couldn't get my car in for work because one of theirs was still there having additional work.

Set price doesn't have to be for any set or minimum time period. I could well be wrong as I don't know the rates in the area but £60 to around here sounds a bit low for one hour's labour. If £60 is too much then don't agree to the work and look elsewhere, simple supply and demand of business. ETA: Part-hour charging is (used to be) perhaps I'm out of date) common, I've even had it from a Merc garage, thank gawd I wasn't paying Merc labour rates as the quality of the work, and speed, was poor and done by the same men who done the work on the very expensive and cheaper Mercs, unfortunately the girl mechanic I'd spoken to previously couldn't be there on the day I was booked in for.

Sorry you feel that way I thought I had offered help to you, no need to go off in a strop because we disagree on what's a reasonable charge. If you read another thread on here you'd understand the possible problems of injector swaps and the codes, as you were in business I can't understand how you'd think I was being silly about following up on the work of others you don't know and I very much doubt the garage is busy with putting in codes on other people's work. You must do as you please.

Possibly, if all goes well perhaps even less. You are having this work done at a a relegated business premises rather than a public car park or public street outside someone's house those need paying for. Do you like to follow up on work that someone else is unable to finish when you have no idea of their abilities or standard of work, whether they have given you the correct information and codes, who's at fault if something goes wrong, was it miswritten or misread. What makes you think they get regular demand for such as you want - buy the equipment, train yourself and you could have a profitable side line, not just coding injectors but other VAG and others' parts , error code reading and perhaps some proper diagnostics from these, you could become the the person to fill the gap from Kidderminster for VAG on here at least. Sorry, that's fair enough. All the best, let us know how you get on with your injectors and coding, obliging Skoda specialist are always good to hear about for those local to the area.

But it's not just a few minutes work is it, they need to buy and maintain the tool, training, experience and updates on its use and lots of of other minor forgotten things, and it's not just a few minutes in reality unless he has absolutely nothing else to do than be standing in the exact spot with the machine ready and your car materialises in front of him with the door open. £60 sounds reasonable to me (VAT will be added probably). I'm surprised they want to take the work on. Seems a sad state of affairs that you need to go to a German company for reconditioned injectors, out your way there must be lots of farmers places about, I know some farmers barely have two helicopters to rub together so will be looking for places that do such work at very good value, ask around.

I don't know if anyone does take on such work but there are plenty of people here that seem to know a lot about the archaic VCDS system operation (other systems I'm sure could also do the coding in a much user-friendly way). Here is a map of VCDS owners, I found someone to help me when I first discovered how over-complicated, intertwined and invasive these VW computer programs were when I found changing a car battery now involve programs, oh, the sheer joy for me. - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&msa=0&ll=21.259901462991746%2C83.39240985000004&z=2 There's also a section of the site for 'Diagnostics & VCDS' where you can find lots of info and users. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ As with many things that relate to computers and computer programs many things that should be straightforward to those that are diligent and logical aren't always so having full preparation, care and various back-ups are required. If the computer programs were really that good they'd sort out and set up these things themselves, accept what's good and reject what's wrong.

So - what is that cost in (pounds sterling)? If I remember I'll ask if my neighbour's machine can code injectors or if it's extra cost on his machine, I don't know but imagine Chinese programs are better as they were probably given, or taken, from source, including the car manufacturers' programing mistakes of course. 😊

Personally I think the VCDS looks to be a very ugly legacy system but if you're techie/maths/old computer minded you might like it. This page from the site will give you an idea and the link pages off it help you. - https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/product.html The Click here for PC Requirements off it. - https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/faq_1.php HTH. Even the site is very messy to me, reminds me of something from the 90s or 70s (or 60s!).

Start with checking your battery and earth connections are all clean and secure. Then check the car battery is in good condition and well charged, being able to start the car and lights seeming bright enough means very little. Start-stop and power steering are often the first warnings that the battery has got too low for the computers' liking, once you've upset them they will punish you in strange ways.

Did you clean the throttle body (MAF?), changed air filter? Did you only service the engine? Have you checked the battery is in a good state of charge and health and all battery (and earths) connections are clean and secure? Could be more than one issue with 180k km, how does your clutch and gear changing feel when driving? Have you got any sort of scan tool?