nta16

You can guarantee that can you? Yeap if there's a good scan tool used by the correct person it can often speed things up, a scan tool too low level and or used by the wrong person can add to the confusion, as has been shown in other threads. ETA: I also forgot what Wino has added, depends on the vehicle and its age too.

Yeap, sorry, I should have put a full stop, two ideas rolling into one, I did see the manually or key blade in my terminology. sepulchrave suggestion and diagnostics, from what I've seen are usually concise and very good - not always 100% correct but who's are, and sometimes he'll burst into two or three sentences, perhaps more battery power is available at these times. It's different stokes for different folks, as long as they don't turn into pokes. 😄

You could try using the cross-reference numbers or different makes and models, or see if the same part is described/named differently on other vehicles. I got 5 drain plugs for the common price of one just by looking around and using the "wrong" (previous/alternative) part number - obviously it depends on monetary cost and how much time and effort you are prepared to put in, or on the other hand, how much life and lifeforce you want to waste on the search against reward to hassle ratio. ETA: (not saying it's so with this part) but, most annoying is when you hunt around and find a good quality part for a reasonable price to find even though it's not declared it's also in the kit of parts you also bought. 😄

Thanks (but I won't remember) I think James will notice I put if.

James, an obvious suggestion, but - have you (if you can on your car) locked the passenger window from use? A car battery in low state of charge can cause all sorts of issues as the, later at least, VW computer programs are so over complicated and invasive particularly the the battery, start/stops programs, if the car battery is low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the car battery might still be too low for the car's computers and they will play up in all sorts of ways. How much this affects your model and year I don't know. I always like to try the quick easy and free diagnostics and solutions first particularly those that don't get my hands too dirty or can be done in comfort. Try as sepulchrave has suggested, do make sure your keyfobs (plural) have are in good condition, clean internally and the fob battery is in good condition because as with the car battery if they are low they won't help and may well hinder. Another quick, easy, free thing to try is the computers reset via the car battery and personally I'd take this opportunity to recharge the car battery as long, low and slow as possible.

No problem, we sometimes forget these lumps of metal aren't anywhere near very important. I hope you also get important things sorted. I wasn't going to put my last post and just leave it but I'm glad I did now, All the best.

Did they also code the battery in correctly if it was not exactly the same as the previous battery in type (EFB -AGM) and capacity (ah), as in another thread someone might have had problems from this?

Hmmm, doesn't take much to read and compare figures - 100% sure I'd have checked that with my neighbour and his machine (and machine gives volts being supplied at top of screen all the time), perhaps too obvious and basic for "technician". Despite the ****-taking from others this is why I keep banging on about how important the battery charge is and how over-complicated and invasive and intertwined the VW computer programs are particularly the battery start/stop programs. I don't think they will, I'm not sure there ever was other than what the computer thought - but of course I could be wrong and can't know this for sure. That is good. To me it'd be better if they said they made a mistake initially by not checking the battery coding but many mechanics, technicians, managers are often taught to never admit to mistakes, but I can dream. 😄 I've got a feeling this may be the end of it for you, unless there are other issues, you might more accept now my advice not to let the battery charge get low, even if the car starts and your lights seem bright enough as it can upset the computers and make them play up in all sorts of ways. In this case the program was doing its job but making things so confusing for at least two garages. All's well that ends well, good luck, thanks for reporting back.

Obviously I do not know how things operate in your country but can you not explain to him why you want an exact fill and not rounded up. Over here the people that work at petrol stations have no reason to care how much fuel you put in your tank. I have read that there is a minimum delivery of 2 litres for the pump to be accurate with its delivery. As nearly all the fuel sold here is by large supermarket or oil brands I am sure that while there may be mistakes and some inaccuracies in measurements generally they would not be on purpose and sorted as these brands do not like bad publicity and the national newspapers and other media would love to tell of such goings on.

Yes, thanks, it's both, just couldn't think of the word lichen, also get that now on the bottom rubber door window seals on the cars which I don't remember having previously. It may be a change of conditions with fewer tress in gardens and conversely since austerity (when the country funded the massive wages and pensions of some gamblers known as bankers) the trees on the verges of the nearby main road have grown massively.

Following on for Ken's advice - a good routine to adopt is to turn all electrics off (unless safety) before you turn the engine off and conversely don't turn any electrics on (unless safety) before you have the engine running. Another tip, if you don't already, to help clear the screen quicker when the blower is used angle the sun visors so that the blown air deflects back to the screen and not roof. Modern cars all being so big have huge windscreens and lots of other glass areas which are good for condensation (and solar gain) I've put two Pingi dehumidifier bags on top of the dash for my wife's Mk3. We're quite dry weather here (relatively) and not very low temperatures normally but for about the last 4 or 5 winters I've noticed there's a lot more damp and condensation now with green mossy/mould type stuff (I'm no gardener) on the concrete paths than the preceding three decades.

Yes but none of the other Skodas on here with this problem that I've seen (IIRC) are from such areas. And in the original post to this thread the car was only 4 years old.

There still are books, like instruction manuals or leaflets but some men, mechanics and engineers (almost always men) have too much ego, arrogance, machismo to read such things, those are the ones that blame the parts rather than their fitting of them for the faults that continue or follow. YouTube is a good tool for learning but as with many other forms you have to verify the quality, and scope, of the information you get. I did not realise that you did not "pump the gas" yourself, over here in all but a few places it is self-service not with an attendant at the pump and you can pay at the pump you are using by credit or debit card (and perhaps other cards I do not know about for business). In the UK there are lots of different car clubs and always were before the internet and some soon had Bulletin Board style forums and basic websites. Given the high rate of taxes on fuel in the UK miles per gallon and price per gallon (and litre for a few decades now) has been a reoccurring subject. As I used to do a lot of pleasure driving it was never a topic that really bothered me I would only occasionally check as a matter of how well the car and engine was running with regards to maintenance and repairs.

No problem. The alarm might have been computer or yourself, if it was you then it's over and done if it was computer it'll probably have settled but should the alarm go off again I might have a few suggestions to sort it but again there is information in the Owner's Manual for a start. A tip I always give is keep your car battery from getting low in charge as that can cause the computers to play up even though the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. The VW computer programs, particularly the one that looks after the battery, start/stop is over-complicated and invasive to the other systems.

It's possibly a bad wire or bad connection between the computer and physical lock which you can possibly find by visual inspection and or multimeter or the use of a higher level scan tool that suggest area of fault and test individual parts. Yeap, a lot of sorting and hassle for a runabout, so . . . So the quick, easy, free thing you can try is the car battery thing as in vid above, it will not repair poor connections or wires but it can reset the computers if they've got their panties in a twist which not unknown, ever turned it "off 'n' on agen". Another thought, quick, easy, free, if the keyfobs can be synchronised, usual done after keyfob battery change, and on my wife's previous car you could also resynchronise the windows less than two very easy minutes work for both on my wife's previous car. Just suggestions, quick, easy and free to try, I'll leave it at that.

Have you got a second keyfob to try? Quick easy and free things to check are your fob battery isn't low, your car battery isn't low and the disconnect car battery reset (I'd charge the car battery as the same time). You could take your fob apart and clean it inside and out. Always worth the try of lubricating the locks (without flooding everything) WD-40 Multi Use isn't long lasting so something like GT-85 is better. Also check that it's not some sort of radio interference from whatever you carry or where the car is parked. If any/all above doesn't work so what nothing lost and if any one does happy days. Obviously you won't be leaving your car unlocked as your insurer wouldn't like it.

To me that sounds terrible I'd expect 10, 15, 20+ years. I know neighbours and others with cars 15+ and 20+ years old without this issue, one's even a German made car.

1Road and I think Chris Fix are not mechanics, I do not know the overs but I guess all of them including the Australian have their YouTube channels to earn money which means providing an element of entertainment using their personalities or perhaps even exaggerated versions so obviously their appeal is going to vary viewers. If they do not reply to emails in their own language then they are not a company I would recommend but this is the same for many companies who also make it extremely difficult to contact by phone or other means. If you try to fill too much could you overload any other fuel system returns or such stuff depending on what is on your car?

You could factor that in if you wanted for trip to TC-6 or just ignore it as it makes such little difference. I originally thought you were running 40% or 50% antifreeze then removed it to almost all distilled water to run as a flush but I get it now. Come the summer if you have access to a hose pipe I would do a clean, full flushes and refill of the three parts of the system as I put before, as a thorough cleaning of the cooling/heating system on older cars is one that is one of my hobbyhorses. I watch Scotty Kilmer but bear in mind he's entirely USA (you might recognise the following) and I recognised the Judge in the jive talk clip.

I was about to to add the airbag switch as I looked inside the glovebox today but HeavyMetalRich has already covered it, and I'm sure there's a hidden screw you get at from the side or back (perhaps you take the side panel off?). As ours is a 2015 I only know that and don't know of earlier or later variations. Bit annoying that the blower resistor should be so short lived in a Mk3, hopefully ours being later 2015 they might have got a better batch or different make.

If you have changed the wheels and/or tyre size there are websites that can show the percentage difference, if working it out for yourself you must also allow for the rolling circumference of the tyres. Or give me the sizes and I can work it out. Then of course the odometer itself could have error from factory which a change of wheel/tyre size could compensate for or make worse. Speedos can be calibrated and made surprisingly precise and accurate and then the odometer and tripometer can be more precise than a digital with one decimal place as with those you can judge the part turn of tenth km cog face number whereas with digital it only changes at one point. Whilst you may get differences between the tripometer and TC-6 for distance it should not be that great and will still serve as a comparison because the errors in each system should be fairly consistent so constant accuracy of both sets of readings to compare with each set and against one another. I did think you would want to use the same petrol (gas is American) station and even perhaps the same pump. The video rootoot put up explains why you do not need to worry too much about weather, I have no idea about language translator on phones or devices but they seem to exist(?). I think you may be trying to get to a level of precision and accuracy that does not exist to the general public, if you do enough tests the variances will more or less even out, you only have to have a coughing and/or farting fit one day to throw the figures out for real accuracy, different footwear, slightly different traffic conditions, you are not working for VW trying to cheat the figures up just accept the accuracy available.

As above, if it's shared with the brakes it might be a good time for a fluid change or if done recently it might be why the clutch needs bleeding. I must admit for whatever (no good) reason I didn't think the clutch was hydraulic. If it's too cold to consider doing right now you know what to do to get the gears. This is ancient stuff, even my old car has separate reservoirs for brakes and clutch and I don't need to *double-declutch. 🤣 * I would if it had standard box as that was non-synchro 1st

For fuel consumption calculations your tank capacity does not matter, it is just distance covered over fuel consumed. Once you have refilled the tank on auto and no more, immediately reset tripometer to zero before starting the car and leaving the petrol station. Drive the car for say 5 (6?) days of your home to work and back, so 40-45 km (48-54 km), then refill the tank on auto and no more, note the amount of fuel this took from the fuel pump, and your distance from the tripometer. Dividing these two figures will give you a very reasonable accurate fuel consumption figure. If you want you can compare it against other method to confirm how accurate the other method is, or not.

Hopefully someone will be along that knows, not me, hopefully I won't need to know for a while yet. When I've opened the glovebox I notice screws so I expect it unscrews but as these things usually go there are usually one or two hidden screws you don't know about and need exposing - I've just put a post about the hidden driver's door lock cylinder. I'll look out for the answer but I'm sure I'll forget the details. Good luck.

Just to recap for others, the procedure - the hidden driver's door emergency (cylinder) lock has to be exposed by removing the painted cover then press any button on the remote keyfob the key blade (the metal bit) now needs to go in in the (formerly hidden) metal lock cylinder within one minute of pressing any button on the keyfob job done, as easy as that, check it works, then refit door lock cover. If you have done this and the remote keyfob with the replaced battery still doesn't work check the battery and its fitment - in this case just swap the batteries over to see if it is the battery or remote keyfob at fault. I always suggest alternating the use of the two keyfobs and blades (you decide how often) that way there is more even wear on the batteries, blades and cylinder locks plus you know where you put/keep the "spare key". Try the battery swap and if it is the battery at fault take a note of its number or photo showing it. If it is the remote keyfob at fault you can easily clean it and try again. Let us know how you get on.