nta16

If it's a really good scanner does it not give value ranges and colour coding to like (but not) OK - suspect - bad (in green amber red perhaps), also could you record a report to, er, export to something that can be viewed a file, "print out" or "photographed". Again if it's got freeze frame at time of fault(s). Or perhaps a video of a live data stream at idle and if possible a second person driving. Have a read of that link I posted and do tick off all the things suggested that you've already done and those you haven't a to-do-list. Same thing for all the suggestions on this thread from the start do the lists and better to check twice than not at all. If it's a lot less hassle to fire the parts cannon again fair enough but I thought you put the other sensor showed as OK on the scanner. Again on a really good scanner you can test and activate things from the scanner (turn one headlight on to test it) forget the terminology, call it Timmy-two-ways for now.

Some scanners give a range but it doesn't matter as the values can usually be looked up, normal type figures range - but if you can put up all the info you can those that know can say. I don't know what scan tool you have but even the really low priced ones should give you the basic info subject to their programs and being relevant to your model and year. If you're not sure have a look at a few videos of your scan tool model, some are better than others and some you might gel with more than others, some have a knack of making things easy to follow and understand whilst others make the simplest operation way more complicated in their presentation.

Yeap, that get the light on. I've lifted below from a webpage, you might also want to read the page just to see if you've missed checking something before, link below (other webpages are available). "Diagnosing an engine that is running rich is really not that simple. It often requires some diagnosis skills if you do want to waste money on just replacing parts. - This is how a professional would do it, and you might need some extra tools to make it. Connect an OBD2 Scanner and check for related trouble codes. If you find any other trouble code regarding another sensor, start your diagnosing at the sensor. Check the live data values of the O2 sensor. Does it show that it is decreasing the fuel amount all the time? Then it is probably not any fault with this sensor. If you have access to one emission control tester or an external air-fuel meter, connect it, and check the actual air-fuel meter. If it shows that the fuel mixture is lean, while the O2 sensor is telling us that the engine is rich and removing fuel – there is a problem with your O2 sensor, and it needs to be replaced. Check the values of all the temperature sensors like the coolant and air temperature. Check the values of the MAF sensor or MAP sensor if you have one. Replace if faulty. Check the fuel pressure and ensure that the pressure is not too high on idle or on acceleration. Check the fuel pressure regulator or the vacuum hose to it if it is too high." Sorry about all the adverts but it's free advice so . . . https://mechanicbase.com/engine/engine-running-rich/

Well if the parts are of good quality and this is your second change then perhaps it the wiring or connectors or connection to whatever computer or problem inside the computer (or its programming) or sumfink else. Best if you can post up a freeze frame or live data report or list of all other error codes and see if those that know about these things (not me) can spot anything. What are your readings for pre and posts sensors, that might be a start? Did you hear and rattles or noises on the exhaust bit when you had them off the car or on those that stayed on the car?

Urrell your eyesight and observation might not be as good as you think. 😉 😄 IIRC (which this time I think I actually do) torque for my wife's Fabia wheel bolts to book are 88 in old money, why pray do you ask?. I do normally leave things to the Dealership especially as I already have a car that has constant wants and need and no garage or outdoor (or indoor) lift.

Yes, the difference is that you are very used to working on cars, I'm struggling to think of three occasions I've taken the wheels off the Fabia thrown in forget which bolts have caps anyway as taking the wheels off other cars this varies, I honestly had to think if it was the Fabia with the black plastic caps. That's another point, on my wife's Fabia the bolt covers are black plastic, road dirt and brake dust make black, they're bolts and covers are recessed, you have to remove all of the covers and when putting them back on find the round one for the locking bolt another reason to have a sequence, I put the round one back on first to save picking up the wrong one at the end of what is always to me a dirty and PITA experience of farting about with cars. Totally my fault but I was thinking of my neighbour's wheel nut covers before that were shiny chromish covers and and IIRC s/s for locking - that's how much notice the Fabia wheel bolts covers are to me as I've takenmy neighbour's wheels off more times than the Fabia's. On another note, I ask this because I don't know and have looked before - I thought a Groan was just that like you would for a bad joke or reluctant acceptance of being told or hearing something you've heard many times before not an outright negative. Where on this site is the information on this as I've never encountered this system before? I did try checking before giving a Groan, I've even suggested I should get a Groan for a bad joke, and got one.

Well as your wife might (obviously I don't know) tell you, you are wrong, I don't have a problem with any of that at all as I put different strokes for different folks. I'm 61 and have bad eyes, bad knee bad bones, and thanks to the bloody stupid idea of wheel bolts now also a bad back and no I didn't have it before. I feel more like 101, and for decades now I've lived with neighbours (some dead now) in their late-80s, 90s and one 103 so I know how mobile or not different people can be at various ages. And yes that's what I do too - when the round cap is pulled off I put the security key on it so as not to miss it - and then I loosen it (first in sequence) about half a turn, depending on how many Shredded Wheat I've had for breakfast, lunch or tea.

I'd forgotten about this (as you had forgotten to look at the Owner's Manual again(?)), from that book - "If the indicator light first of all flashes fast for about 2 seconds, afterwards lights up for about 30 seconds and then flashes slowly, there is a fault in the system of the central locking or the interior monitor => page 43" Page 42 "When is the alarm triggered? . . . A drop in voltage of the on-board power supply" I know you put the car battery is only 12 months and I put it's only a store so can be depleted at any time but did you check the car battery or better still give it a long low slow recharge, a short high quick recharge isn't as good as often it won't go as deep and don't use a booster charger. I know people find it hard to believe how important the battery charge (and condition) is for modern cars and that even if the car starts and lights seem bright enough the battery could still be too low for the car's computers and their invasive programs can throw up all sorts of unusual wobblies and left too long the computers will make you suffer for the neglect. Again it's simple almost cost free and only takes a bit of time and patience to properly recharge the car battery, if it's too low just driving the car won't do it. See the 4th (and 3rd) from last posts in this thread, good luck. -

No this is just the same as Urrell and Dale literally not able to see what the other does. I was going to put anyway - True but if you don't often remove the wheels then often you can find this out as you try to fit the socket over the cap - and I understand exactly what Dale means about about not spotting the locking bolt (bloody stupid idea) with or without its cap and I'm certainly not tall. Urrell, you may be younger and/or more frequently removing the wheels on your car, different folks different strokes.

That me rushing a Google search, I suppose the yellow instead of black in a photo should have been a clue, like you I had duties being pressed on my me, then I have to wait for the next command, and I'd better be ready. 🙃 That's no way to talk about the car just because it's lighting up for Xmas. See what the help is first, 😄

I was given one as a present but found it still made handling the well unbalanced for me, two is much better but still more of a fiddle when the tyre is only going an inch or two off the ground (compared with locating 4 or 5 wheel studs). It's in the Owner's Manual. No it's not. Normally I wouldn't claim it but I'm in a high mood tonight with my very successful tiptoeing on eggshells tonight I'm 'aving the cherry on the icing on the cake, yummy.

How loose would the wheel bolts be in this example, at least RickT will want a measurement of some sort. I'm wicked, it's the lack of alcohol, I'm even 'funnier' with a drink. 🙃

Dale, this can be caused by not putting the locking bolt in last. No, I'm joking, for crying out loud I'm joking. 😁 Being bias (with sciatica) I'd say this is another thing from the use of these stupid bolts instead of wheel studs, it's not easy to balance the wheel beneath you on the silly thin centre circle while you grab for the first bolt, if you slip with it it can literally be a PITA and your back and the back of your legs. I only learnt of the hanging locating peg after as I'd never encountered this bloody silly wheel bolt design before, I also use two of those hanging locating pegs as I don't find one good enough, as I have regular reminders!

J.R, it was humour, referencing how you'd be offended if it was suggested you'd make a mistake, of tightening the the wheel bolt. You do however offend others easily, I don't know if you realise this and why you don't if not but I don't mind I like direct but your posts slide into bolshy sometimes, if offended was the wrong word I'll use whichever you want. I did explain why I'd put what I put, twice, and made an amendment if not the 'correction' you think is required, you however have yet to put your side expecting me to blindly follow what you tell me. I certainly agree with you it's not a well written book but the parts I highlighted seem very clear. As I don't whole agree with it I'm happy to alter to somfink like "it sez i'the buck", I am willing to compromise in the same way I willing to use that information in the way I did without believing in it 100%, the world and black and white there are shades of grey and colours. My initial and overall thoughts were the same as Trevor M's not a firm believe or 100% sure its wrong and not over bothered either way, I don't mind being wrong I'm very, very used to it. So c'mon J.R. where's you evidence, give me my understanding, I don't mind learning. Bloody silly bolts literally gave me backache now they're out to give me a migraine. (look away J.R. this smiley's not for you) 🤕

Clive, if you private message me the make model of this ELM (is it just a wire connector with a box type) and the laptop or phones you want to use I can ask my neighbour what you need and how to do it, or suitable videos. Laptop is better for bigger screen, especially if like him and I you still need a bigger screen when wearing your reading glasses) but it depends how much computer capacity and power these things if your laptop is old and/or jammed full already modern phone have lots more spare. I'm out and about a bit tonight but back home enough to send an email to my neighbour, he's a bit computer techy and bought and set up an £800 (well full RSP) scan tool that sorted another neighbour's 2005 A-Class Merc but failed to sort a mate's American/German car's roof which was a bit of a shame as he paid extra for the machine that covered that model year, but two other marque specialist had failed on their machines previously too. All the programs seem to be from China, given to them by the car manufacturers no doubt who thought they were cleverer than the Chinese. 🤣 Cheers, Nigel.

Clive, four, a serial offender! Having had two Bs and two Spridgets over the last 30 years as dallies I prefer the Spridget but I'm not far off needing a B now if only for getting in and out of. Your Lotus 7 with a Zetec, I'll upset you I had a factory Westie copy of similar in 96-97 and a mate still has his now from that period. I had to look up the JPS Elise and guessing by the photo it's a Mk2, a couple of chaps in the club I'm in have had a few earlier Elises, don't think I've seen a JPS that I can remember. For the car the basics are the same as just about ever (100+) years just that now there are sensors everywhere to get the nth degree of mpg showing on the dash and Governmental test (VW obviously throw in a bit more for good measure) the computers and their programs are very invasive and particularly over-complicated with VW (I wonder why). So instead of just mechanic faults you now have to add electronic, mechanical/electronics combined, computers, communications to and from the computers and the possibilities of errors or unforeseen consequences of the computers' programming. What many don't know or fully realise is that the computer do not like a car battery in a low state of charge, even ifthe car still starts and the lights seem brighter enough the computers can still throw wobblies and all sorts of odd issues, and this can be well before any "idiot lights", and they can make you suffer for your neglect of their need. I'm not saying this is (necessarily) so for you but you never wanting adding to the pot of car woes. I should say I am not a mechanic or expert in anything in any way but experience has taught me to try the quick, easy and free or low cost things first (hopefully that includes some basic diagnostics logic too but I'm very forgetful). Three prongs of attack, here you have covered deal with the mechanical side, second get your better scan tool up and running, third try so basics. For the scan tool there are bound to be videos online showing how to connect it to a phone or laptop (I'd have to watch them too) no doubt beyond the usual ratio 9 out of ten too complicated or not well enough explained or video'd and one that is just right in plain language, well explained, well video'd and easy to follow. As you're not on the better scan tool yet here what I always suggest (assuming it's the turbo toasted) - check your Driver's Handbook for what needs resetting and synchronising after disconnecting the battery then fully disconnect the battery, immediately after turn the lights and a few other electrics on to deplete any stored electric in the car, don't forget to turn them all off again. Have the battery disconnected for as long as possible, a couple of hours, better still overnight and give the battery a long low slow recharge while it's out/out-of the car (not a quick, fast, high charge and not booster charge). Yeap, it's the old "turn-it-off-'n'-on-agen" for the computers to hopefully reset them and perhaps some error code actions. Hopefully by then you might have use of the better scan tool, in which case run a scan, record it if you can but don't worry if not just take notes of error codes or photos like the young uns do. Then delete, clear or whatever terminology the scan tool has. Go for a reasonable drive when you get back do another scan whether warning lights are on or off and go from there. If you're not quite set up with the better scan tool then still go for the drive as the computer might reset themselves over time and distance - they do not "relearn", computers are extremely dumb but not as dumb as us that are ruled by them. Wow, another long post, the instant answer crowd will be beside themselves. 😁 Cheers, Nigel For conformation of the battery business see the (last two of the three) posts here. -

Yes a lot of people find this hard to believe or follow but just have a look at some threads on here for conformation. The car battery and its condition and connections have been very important since its use but even more so with the more modern cars as they are loaded down with computers, these computer don't like a low level of battery charge and because the various computers are so invasive and their programs so complicated (or over complicated in the case of VW, wonder why) they can throw all sorts of unexpected wobblies. Even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery could still be too low, the programs are fighting to keep things going. By the time the 'Warning' lights, er, light it could all be too late. The D-connector the oxygen sensor if it's firmly connected then the tab is of little loss - if it's easy to get at you could try parting it and checking it for crud and bent pins and then give it a spray with electrical contact cleaner both sides - but perhaps that can wait if things continue to improve as sometimes it's better leaving well alone. For AnnoyingPentium's checks I think he means under the bonnet. I think I might try deleting the codes with the scanner and seeing if that helps speed up recovery or record live data or freeze frame and come back here with any error codes and the other info. Obviously don't let your battery go too low, even if it's new it can still be run down.

Ah, well, nothing lost always worth trying the free and easy. Sorry I know nothing of alarms as new as 10 years. You might need a proper scan tool to see if there are faults (or adjust sensor(s) sensitivity?).

Yeah it seems likely to be some small very cheap part but it might not get worse, if it does you can go from brighter to brightest - and - if your lucky this might coincide with the screen losing its brightness, only time can tell but you might be that lucky devil. 🤣 Now if you put up a threat about your start/stop issue that might have an easy and proper solution. I well remember being in a Honda Dealership in 2004 and thinking how big the Jazz was for a supposedly small car, nothing like the Honda Civic of the 70s. 🙂

Yes very good point (plus I'm prewarned for when J.R. sees that) it's possibly a translation thing, or just a typo thing, or lack of proof reading. I find the whole book for my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 difficult to read and understand at points even when I know the information I find the way that it's presented confusing. In another model's Owner's Manual the instructions for synchronising the remote keyfob is missing an important part to a sentence making it very difficult if not impossible to follow and understand. But I can't throw stones about language, writing, spelling and being intelligible. 🤣

Depends on whether there is also sometimes a delay in getting that 12v from the switch, that's the problem with internment faults they have to be playing up at the time you are testing for them.

As well as any answers you get from your thread here you can also do a search here as this subject has been covered before (I do not know the details though). It might help with variations of fitments to various countries and models if you add your country to your poster badge details and more info on your model such as, only as example, Mk3, 1.2 TSI, hatchback SE. Good luck. ETA: I have just entered more details to my model profile (90 SE) to do myself as II have suggested

As well as any info you get from your thread here it might well be worth posting in the following thread with more details and perhaps pab567 can help you out with a fix (or even replacement?). -

Possibly switch part of ignition switch or does the key cylinder barrel have a return spring, I do not know, worn barrel, like you put a matter of more diagnostics. Celebrate first. 😄

Then perhaps you don't have that system as I took that information from my PDF copy for our UK car. Have a look at your Owner's Manual (Driver's Handbook) relevant to your model, country and time of build, if you do not have the paper copy (best kept in your glovebox) then you can find it here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models