nta16

Check the Owner's Manual for your car, usually several methods. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Average or current fuel consumption? Is the Citygo definitely from 2011? Guessing it's a "Version 2" dash.

ETA: I'm too slow, image wasn't showing before. 😄 Not that it might matter here but generally landscape photos give more info, particularly for dash as more dials and lights can be seen that might correspond with what's shown. If no one else comes in with more help and better suggestions I'll have a look at the Owner's Manual later.

Sorry I can't open your file. But I do wonder why you get the digital copy of the 'Owner's Manual' from where you do instead of getting the specific 'Owner's Manual' as a free VWŠkoda pdf download from the VWŠkoda manuals website, using the VIN will get the one originally issued with the car. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Could be both or neither just changing parts can run on to be an expensive and slow process to find a resolution. You would have to include wires and connectors as parts too. Best to test the items first. If you decide to replace them hold on to the old parts for a good while (up to year or two perhaps) in case the new parts turn out to be lower quality than the ones you took off. You could also look for anything that could interfere or cause issues, something trapped or rubbing or something added to the car causing issue(s), incorrect or poor wiring or connections. I had a set of HT leads that looked good so I left them to change later rather than as I normally do change to know good ones and I got a very indeterminant engine cutting out but easy to restart, turned out to be a high voltage backtracking to the distributor cap and causing havoc, it cost me more than a good set of quality HT leads to find this out on an old Sun diagnostic machine with someone who knew what he was doing with it. Let us know how you get on and what you find the solution to be.

Wait and see what quality the first one is. I'd definitely have two (for each wheel being swapped if rotating a set of four wheels and tyres on the car. I was bought one by a friend and ordered a second that had rough knurling that could scratch the bolt holes on the wheels and then a set of two much better quality (and heavier) set of two (in second photo). Toi save the hassle and knock-on effects of having the back problem I'd have bought a set of 20 if required! I disliked (to be polite) VW before this issue and after it (and VWŠkoda UK cambelt con) cemented my dislike. ☹️

Fair enough. The springs are the real shock absorbers with the dampers controlling them. Also of course the tyres affect the ride and the silly oversized wheels and shorter sidewall tyres that fashion dictates on modern cars. I got sciatica from the b****y silly wheel bolts instead of studs, I now use two "wheel alignment tools" on each wheel to do a similar job to having (5) wheel studs to make things easier and ease things for my back.

Well done on straightening it. Who knows the real causse(?). If you have had the car from brand new and doner all the work on it yourself there would be more certainty but if you got the car used and/or have it worked on by others the variables go up. If it took a lot of effort to get it straight then lets hope that has sorted it for good.

I've not dealt with them but I would if the part I wanted I knew wasn't on back order, which you'd have to check with them first and hope their stock computer listing system is up to date. See - "I was able to order online but I have received an email that says the item is out of stock". - https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/faq/ If you do order from them let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome, using the green highlighted @ thing (I've no idea what it's called) will make contact via your post.

Sorry I can't remember what make the good garage said they use only that they don't use the one fitted to my wife's Fabia. Other members will know if the Sachs 318198 are any good or not. All the best.

With this one it's not so much a fag paper as a fag packet. What the metal, of the particular flange in the photo, like, can it be trusted if straighten out and part reused with confidence(?).

Alasdair, great news. I hope you also saw my ETA: to my previous post.

ETA: Apologies, I forgot you are new to the site, hi Al, and welcome. IIRC (?) having a VCDS and knowing how to properly use it may help if you need to swap around head units (if that's what they're called) stick with pab567 as he specialises in this area and is very helpful to members as well as access to solutions. If you have a VCDS and know how to use it you might think about adding yourself to the list of VCDS owners offering to help other Briskoda members. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 Good luck.

I'm not a mechanic or expert in anything, all that video showed to me was evidence of a fair amount of oil to the area. I've no idea of Peugeot 207s, I wouldn't know one if it ran me over, or their engines, or your mechanic of course so if it was my car I'd need more info from the mechanic if he's not already given it. Is the leak actually from the engine or the filter housing, is it a difficult or expensive job to stop the leak at that point in the engine or filter housing. I'd take your engine code and search to see if it has a common problem like this and what the resolves are and how successful these resolves are. TBH as soon as I saw filter (housing) I was thinking of whether it might be a filter gasket/seal left in from removal of previous filter or new gasket/seal damaged, or if the filter housing was removed for some reason if that was replaced correctly or gasket/seal damaged - but I've no idea what's on your engine. I also wondered if the short piece of silver (?) insulation(?) held by what looks like perhaps a cable-tie is a Peugeot thing which it may well be, same as some VW homemade looking factory things. I think you might be best doing more research perhaps looking at a 207 forum with owner's using the same engine code and possibly getting more info out of the mechanic, is it that big of a job or that he or the garage don't want the job, big or small (or being a cynic from past personal experiences that the mechanic/garage are that good or con-artists). When was the engine oil and filter last changed, who do that work, was there a (reported) leak in that area then, how much oil have you had to add to the engine over how long and when did you first notice the leak or need to add more oil than usual. You could totally clean that area from the result of the oil leak, add dye to you engine oil (from a kit with glasses and light perhaps) and look for the source of the leak with the dye. You might even be able to tell just by cleaning the area of the filter housing (if the or any other oil leak isn't above or around that area). A teaspoon of oil can look like a gallon (4.5l) of oil on the ground beneath the car and a build up of leaking oil over a period of time might look like a mini-flood - but if you've needed to top up the engine with a significant amount of oil over a short period of time or frequently then of course that's a difference matter. You may also need to take into account if, other than this leak, the engine had/has, or appeared to have any other issues. HTH.

@lewiswal47 are you able to help with below at all please. Surely there's a stage you see before seeing below, see D.FYLAKTOS's text and photos below and something to explain what the channel and value numbers each refer to.. - "Here is what i saw in my smartphone when i connect the OBD 11 in the port. Idle Engine temperature or coolant temperature? Lambda sensor? Value 4 is? What are these indications? Makes my nervous that i paid for this reader and does not say what it measures (plus does not have that fancy applications with digital gauges)."

You're being too polite with VWŠkoda UK at least, they seem to be ignoring this issue and don't care about the current owners of the vehicles, dieselgate showed what is required with these people (companies are run by people) but the UK is a soft touch. Same with ripping-off customers previously with 5 years cambelt replacements in UK. CamBeltchangechange.pdf

Yes I saw the photos in the link you put up and wondered if there was a page/menu/stage before the ones you showed but I've never used an OBDeleven though one was used once to 'code' the Fabia's replacement 12v battery, started with a report, clear error codes, do a back-up file and then 'code' the battery. Why not check with other OBDeleven users how to get the information you want in the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Some find they work on some engines, best check Peugeot 207 engines, coolant sealants seem more popular that oil sealants but there are all sorts for all sorts of leaks. Coolant (or head gasket I forget) I've seen reported as used on modern VWŠkoda engine on this site and was reported as seemed to do the job, at the time and no report back of failure (or continued success) make of that what you will. How bad actually is the leak, could it be resolved simply by a hose, part, gasket or seal replacement or is it even that bad to worry about, old cars (especially American) leak like sieves, some from new, the old saying for some was/is if the engine isn't leaking it means it's run out of oil. Wipe clean just before MoT as a drip of residue leaked oil from the underside of the car can annoy some MoT testers but a small leak to ground is allowed on MoT as you have discovered. Is the leak that bad or would another Mot tester perhaps have ignored it. Bear in mind an MoT is just one (hopefully trained) person's opinion that the car passes the minimum statutory minimum standards at that oner point in time only, it doesn't mean the car is in as good a condition as it could or should be and may fail an MoT as the car is driven away from the "pass".

ETA: I forgot to post the Fabia Mk3 thread. - The Definitive VCDS / OBD11 / Carista list for the Fabia III - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/492377-the-definitive-vcds-obd11-carista-list-for-the-fabia-iii

Forum rules didn't look bad to me and other forums have posts. - https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/2/forum-rules-read-before-posting "OBDeleven Support Contacts Dear community members, If you wish to contact our customer support our advice is to: . Go to our website and use the Chat function; . Use the Help function found in our Android or iOS application You can also visit our Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section right here: OBDeleven FAQ Thank you!" - https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/15403/obdeleven-support-contacts "OBDeleven's New Feature – Basic OBD2 Diagnostics We're introducing engine diagnostics for every car brand – Basic OBD2 Diagnostics! 🎉 With this feature, you will now be able to diagnose engine-related problems and clear faults in minutes for all CAN-bus supporting car brands. 🔎🚗 Learn more about this feature in our newest blog post 👉 HERE" - https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/19213/obdelevens-feature-basic-obd2-diagnostics If you don't want or like OBDeleven that's fair enough, certainly over Briskoda members seem to like it for their VWŠkoda models, I'm neither really for it or against it but think others can choose for themselves.

The front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia mark 3 had to be replaced at 6 years old to pass an MoT (statutory annual inspection) the replacement dampers fitted by the local VWŠkoda Dealership (at great cost of part(s) and fitting) were "misting" at the next (early) MoT only 11 months later, apparently a known thing with VW dampers, luckily it wasn't a fail this time but an advisory a year later. Don't fall for the out-of-date believe that German car engineering is good quality that went away about the turn of the century. A couple of 20+ year old Toyotas cars I knew were still on factory fitted suspension, I've always found Japanese engineering quality to be higher but even this has dropped, but some of them seem to have been infected with American corporate practices and quality for quite a time now.

Sorry my mistake, on a closer look yes three plates/fingers to each, the combination of my poor eyes the image and my faulty brain show four for me, I see I was totally wrong now. It's just that I and others have had so many copy/reproduction or alternative parts in the past that are not made as original and can cause issues with fitting and working. My mistake.

Personally, I would use a trolley jack and puck whenever possibly rather than a scissor jack, quicker easier and more stable. But then I rarely had a spare wheel in the boots of my cars for about 20+ years, instead I had a manual foot pump, this could only really be beaten by a totally flat tyre. The foot pump is also useful for others that carry a spare wheel for many years (decades) only to find the time they need it the tyre is either flat or under-inflated for use as the spare wheel and tyre were never checked. If you have a back-up system you need to know it will fully work should it, or when, it's needed. For the very silly wheel bolts (instead of studs) I thoroughly recommend the use of "wheel alignment tools" when taking a wheel off or putting back on (or rotating wheels) two for each wheel is best, otherwise it is possible to "do yer back in", guess how I know, b****y silly wheel bolts instead of studs.

Glad to hear she's keen to learn and be independent (as much as anyone can) especially as a woman, I'm a man and not happy about having to rely on any men (much prefer a woman in a "man's job"). In the mid-80s my wife went to a 20-week evening car course but it was on things like working on a stripped engine when it should have been on basic and general car servicing and maintenance but 30+ years of me running various old (over-priced and over-valued "classic") cars as dailies and more taught her a few real-world bits about cars. It's not saying much but she's much better than me at identifying the sounds from potential and actual problems , and remembering the sounds. She knows how to simple stuff on a car, which is about as much as I know, but it's my job to do the stuff and get dirty, cold and wet doing the stuff (cos I ain't not clever enough to get out of it). Wow, Brighton more expensive than that-there-Lunden, I can imagine that as when I went to see Meatloaf in Brighton in 1982 we had to pay £4 !! for all-day parking, the Rent-a-Wreck Mk4 Ford Cortina estate IIRC only cost £10 hire for the day, between the four of us, and it wasn't in that bad condition, compared to some of our local taxi firm ones. £4 !! Still hurts even today, I think a pint of (real) beer was only about 50-60p a pint (outside of London and the south at least). £4 !! 🙃 Hope you are now sorted. Keeping the battery topped up on an under used modern car is important, perhaps especially a VW products with all it's computer systems and programs.