nta16

Take a lot of VWŠkoda "Service" and "Maintenance" as a minimum rather than best. Have a look at that old green list poster I put in a previous thread. The might as well change the air filter (and clean box and tubes) at the same time as the spark plugs as you have to take the filter box of and and those sprung hose clips are a PITA. If you are keeping the car not too far in the future you might want to change the "lifetime" coolant (pressure tool or your nerve may be required), then if manual gearbox oil change (or partial anyway) car on a lean perhaps for that. And by now you are possibly on a newer battery or use of charger maintainer. Plenty of additional service (maintenance) work with VW products to keep you occupied rather than the belt perhaps. Try this link if you want for VWŠkoda Fabia (2015-19) manuals. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda-fabia-mk3-2015-2019-2020-workshop-manuals-wiring-diagrams/ HTH.

Are you sure the Foxwell NT201 works on a European VWŠkoda Felicia 1.3MPI 2000 year, as 2000 is a threshold point. (Link I got say says free lifetime updates which might be good). Current (?)Foxwell NT201 web link has 'Quick Start Guide' with pinout in it. - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/4691/4470/files/Foxwell_NT201_User_Manual.pdf?v=1721296209 At that level the Foxwell is only going to give the basic generic info and code delete. Sorry I've no idea about the wiring on/to the OBD port, I could guess but that's not a good idea with these sort of things. When Thefeliciahaker is about he will probably be able to give you confirmed information. Good luck.

Ben, good that you got it sorted. It never rains but it pours, no biggy, or even littley, at all, you've also posted your thread in the Fabia Mk3 2014-2021) forum. I'm not throwing stones as I live in a greenhouse. 🙃 That might be where you went wrong after fitting the parts as that probably refers to reading the Owner's Manual to find what fuse covers what. Reading and referencing to the car's 'Owner's Manual' has saved many owners, including me, time hassle and money by unnecessary visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. Even for repairs it's worth having a look at instructions and information which 'Owner's Manuals' can have a lot of. Of course that is when VWŠkoda puts the correct information in their 'Owner's Manuals' unfortunately that's no always so with fuse allocations but they get it right most of the times so still worth a look. I'm sure you have a brighter outlook now. 🙂

I leave those that know better to comment on the belt but don't worry about the 66kW most of the time not much (very little) hp (kW) is needed. Big/bigger hp figures are often more about willy-waving leave that to others, as long as the car can haul it's heavy structure, electrics/electronics/wiring/motors/heater/gadgets, big wheels/tyres, passengers, luggage/loads along and uphill reasonably. Plus you don't have to wear branded sunglasses on a rainy or cloudy day to drive your car. 😁

It's no mystery tell your beloved top dog mechanic, you have a VWŠkoda that have suspension issues at a low number of tears age that better manufactures don't have at decades old. Perhaps your mechanic isn't used to working on such lower quality manufacturer parts and components. My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 makes similar noises I could hardly believe the noise when I drove the car this winter at near freezing ambient temperatures after not being in the car for a while. I've been in decades old and very worn BL(!) cars that didn't sound anywhere near as bad. I have seen other owners put how they have spent loads on having that, that and the other parts replaced still to have a noise or noises from the suspension or underside. If the car passes inspections you could just put up with it, or get a car that doesn't have these noises, or be grateful these noises can cover the various noises the engine make at various times. German engineering quality. 😄

Sounds like you might have bought some cheap or lower quality LED bulbs, if you disable the inspection warning then you won't know when these bulbs fail, which might be soon if they are really cheap and/or really low quality, or when another lighting fault(s) happen (real or car computer brain-fart(s)). If you have not already tried and you have access to VCDS, or other appropriate scan tool, you could try deleting the error code and see if the warning goes out and remains out. I put some decent day light running LED bulbs in my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 which she has lit all days and they have been fine and not caused any warnings. Previously with the incandesce bulbs fitted the poorer quality VW bulb holder(s), VW wiring, VW computers caused false warnings (one for rear tail and one front DLR) and was slow to report (the other side) DLR front bulb that took a week to show what was a warning to my eyes (bulb discolouring). HTH.

Look on the bright side, you might have got shot of the car before the belt needs doing. 😁 I'm King of typos and it's a wonder I noticed that one (it's only because my wife's car's engine is code is that). ETA: I couldn't find the details to post where VWŠkoda UK finally coughed up and admitted the belts didn't need changing every 5 years/ 50k-miles, too late for us as they robbed us of £430 ! (robbing !"£$%^& con-men).

As a generalisation, I see it as "longlife" for engine oil more of a marketing term, a good oil is a good oil, if the "longlife" oils are truly set for longer use this just means they might be better but then a non-"longlife" oil might be better than a "longlife" oil. A "longlife" oil I'd feel is fine for annual use if it's good oil but I might not use a "longlife" oil if I had high annual mileage. Unless you test the oil in the engine you won't really know how near or far (or perhaps passed) the oil is to needing changing so better a bit soon than a bit late. And as the cost of testing the oil is a good way towards the cost of the oil if you're doing the oil (and filter) changes yourself you might as well renew the oil.

Up to you but 110,000 km might be a bit early, you could just give it good inspections until 150/180,000 km (IIRC even VW say 180,000 km or 15 years and IIRC some belt manufacturers say "life". Typo on engine code(?).

Probably a good idea, possibly the oil is nearer to needing changing by being under 10k-miles in a year than if the mileage was well over 10k-miles a year. Shorter journeys where the oil doesn't get to say 90c or for not much of the journey isn't best for the oil. Rather than using a biased 90c needle coolant temperature gauge to see when the engine has warmed you're better having the engine oil temperature setting to view and referring to that as instead (as well).

Fuel savings to the nth degree of the nth degree I find laughable especially on a modern car that is so heavy, especially with VW, with all the necessaries and extras needed and wanted (if often not used or used once or twice) plus the over large wheels and tyres for fashion, very often only has the driver's or perhaps plus one passenger seat occupied out of 4, 5, 6, 7. A cough, burp or fart transmitted to your right foot and the miniscule mpg saving could be wiped out. 😁 Any 0W-20 oil will be a good oil, whether it's the best or most suitable in a particular application is another matter. Ow-20 is like syrup, for those rough old German engines, when compared to 0w-8, 0w-12, 0w-16 other engines use.

Sorry I've never used Mannol, just a few notes offered for perspective. If you want it then buy it, (if) it meets VW and your requirements and particularly if it's at a good price. I don't over concern myself about VW approval, other do and might and that's fine. If a reputable oil blender or producer states it meets the requirements I'm fine with that. Many who like thing German (that's not me but I don't dislike anything German that is good) often outside or from outside the UK seem to like Mannol so by numbers and statistics Mannol may have very popular approval particularly with owner of German car makes. Personally I'd not go with 0w-20 necessarily, a couple of threads already on 508/9 0w-20 oil if you want to follow this up - or just stick with VW dictates and/or what you want and feel you need.

Yes but it's the same kidology - there is no reserve, unless you carry a gallon (5l) can of fuel in the boot and the can actually has some fuel in it, without fuel in it it's the same as the "reserve" on these cars, non-existent. Whatever consumption mpg figures the dash shows are historical information showing for that point in time, when driving I can get a current mpg (on a different make and model of car) to show as 99.9 mpg and second(s) later unregistered as under 20 mpg. The figure(s) shown are are great estimate of how much the computers think you can get if driving in the future mpg is the same as for the period calculated - even the mighty VW can't predicted the future with much accuracy - if they could they'd not have been caught with dieselgate and thrown so many eggs into electric vehicles and China market. (Almost) all the cars I have ever owned from the late 1970s on have had a fuel reserve warning, of the verbal type, particularly needed on those with fuel tanks of less than 6 or 7 gallons but they might still get a greater range than the cars I had with 12 and 14 gallon tanks.

Isn't the range left based on historical information that may not reflect the actual range left because the computer is calculating based on how it was last driven, mpg, over what I don't know, with the computer taking the car to be driven in the same manner and mpg which the driver can alter at will (well as much as the car's computers will allow). And isn't the reserve in reality just kidology, just a marker same as the red sections on the gauge. Take the gauges as an estimate rather than an accurate. The 1974 Rover P6 had a "reserve" it was just a second pipe that went lower in the fuel tank than the other supply pipe, both in same tank that held same amount of petrol.

A friend of a friend bought a really nice Amazon possibly 10 years back, I had noticed the car and said it'd be too good and never get used by the chap who was interested in it because he more liked the idea of ownership and sure enough he bought never used it and was selling it a year later and only once if ever took it on the road. The car had been put together or restored by an engineer that worked at the Merc place at Brixworth and it really showed and could have been a nice show car (for those that like that sort of thing) but to me it was begging to be used, some might rally it but it was too good for that sort of life. Had I wanted a saloon at the time (and had the money) I'd have happily used it as an everyday car (I've wated far too much money on old cars to worry about keeping residual values). I was given a lift home in a brand new (740?) in the mid-80s by a lad younger than me, it was his boss's/dad's new car, he drove it like a young lad would, great big comfortable leather and padded front seat, fastest comfy armchair I've ever been in. Bit different from the Mk1 Escort Mexico with roll cage and harness I sometimes got a lift back home in with the noise of the only cassette the owner driver seemed to posses (ZZ Top Eliminator, playing both sides) which just about toped the engine, exhaust and other noises - and different from the hour long double-decker bus ride back home. all before my first (real) Škoda. The VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3 is cheaper trim but much VW/VAG is still on it and in it, some parts with have made in Škodaland same as SEAT might have some bits mase in SEATland I guess (can't remember). Bear in mind at one stage (Mk1 Fabia?) VWŠkoda were test brand for the VW engines so were in advance of the name-brand and VWŠkoda had to have hidden weights added to stop them showing as quicker than the overweight VWs. A modern Bentley with the metal panels off shows loads of VAG / Audi(?) I forget fantastic plastic parts with the stamp, lots goes into the corporate brands melting pot(s). Get yourself a VCDS and see what's on the Fabia that can be unleashed to Golf / Polo standards have a look at the part numbers too to see what might be common. Mk1 GTi is the only VW I've ever thought I'd like to own and drive, when the Mk2s became popular with d' yuff of later time it was totally beyond me what they could see in a Mk2, even the GTi so big, heavy, old-person boring to me, but each to their own. We had a straight (or was it V) 6 cylinder RS Focus in the club and a few Mustangs old and new (not latest ones) but good though the RS seemed not my cup of Darjeeling and our roads mean very concentrated and tiring driving for the really souped up cars and even standard cars too much to be used enjoyably on public roads. To me a little car and engine working to get along even at modern pace is much more enjoyable.

I don't really care how old or new a technology is if it works well and is reliable. Most might think I'm too stuck in the past, until a couple of years ago my (one and only) everyday car was a 1973 MG Midget for the previous 16 years and that car was very basic (and ancient) even for the early 1970s. Though it didn't need de-coking every 10k-miles or lots of grease points every 1,000 miles (but front suspension every 3-months and just before MoT). A lot of modern stuff isn't that modern and based on technology from the turn of century prior to Y2K planes dropping out of the sky. Mobile phone can be as bad as when they first became more widely used and TwatNavs are still too closely followed by those thinking like idiots (don't have to wait for the 5 satellites to show now though). I used to enjoy the radio valves warming up as I turned it on for the Radio 1 Friday Rock (was it Fluff before Tommy Vance or just Tommy Vance on that show, I forget now), it was before Channel 4 started, not that it mattered to me then as we didn't have a telly, I've been listening to The Archers since about then too! 😁

Yeap 1950s style motoring from a car built in the 60s, you were more in a time bubble than me. Similar for early 70s Midget, 50s designs still on new 70s car. Mine was one of the early one to have an alternator rather than dynamo, not that it mattered that much as there was still so little on it. The heater was the Moggy tap on the cylinder head, you had to turn it on or off by lifting the bonnet, no remote control, flaps to have the heater at the footwell(s) or leave all going to screen. My previous model, a Spridget lacked cabin and boot light which I never really noticed until one dark night out at a country village with short walk to pub and returned having to feel my way into the car and cabin as no lighting or moon but solved by putting dash lights on, dim though they were (no LED bulbs then). My 1973 (well a few parts of it ) Midget was on 145 tyres but originally 4.5" (Rostyle) wheels where as my previous 1969 (well a few parts of that) Spridget was on lovely 3.5" rims with 145 tyres, both with the standard 15.5" steering wheels but for the Spridget I got a a test batch made reproduction twin wire spokes that gave the car fabulous lovely feeling to steering, both had standard steering racks (Moggy upside down and later Triumph based) and whilst not quick even with the large (same size as MGB) steering wheel the steering was easy and quick on such a light car. I was going to go on to Blockley tyres with the Midget but had to sell before that time, I thoroughly recommend giving Blockley a try as you can't go wrong with the offer and I've only heard good reports about the tyres and it's really a one-man company and he a true British character and unlike most in the motor trade offering a great product but not looking to make a fortune. I soon learnt to dislike CB points especially as it was when they were so badly made, I think I might have put up with them when I had my MGB (my first "classic" but with the Spridget I got an expensive (NOS?) Lucas electronic with spare rotor (blades) er, rotor, worked fine never a problem for me, on to Aldon and when available in right-angle cap a 123 Ignition fully electronic dissy (CSI weren't about I think) again no problems other than it scarred the cap posts inside at very first ignition start, had to seen to believe I'd expect, an annual tidy up sorted it though, otherwise start of slight misfire as I discovered first time I was later with servicing. I would go with the CSI now. I was late into getting Mini bits (or Mini Bitz, Mini Spares, Minim??), same bits at lower retail prices and so better quality parts (not difficult), some cross over with Moggy bits but not a lot (other than perhaps engine parts). I've not got much now but I built up a lot of info on parts for the cars so if I can help with any parts (not internal engine) I might still have a bit of info and bits I might remember (though not as much of that). My "classic" were all original or unmodified as like you I drove them and as designed soi I learnt what were improvements and were were not and far, far, too much experience of p1ss-poor rubbish rubber and poor, crap or abysmal quality parts. I also took no notice of what oils not to use (engine and gearbox GL-5) and later learnt DoT5 replacing DoT 3 or 4 doesn't require new seals or even prior or post full flushing. The older chaps with older (1940s and 1950s "classics") were far more progressive than those with 60s and 70s "classics". I certainly done my bit to keep the British economy turning with my "classic" cars ownership (hence I have no money now, and wasting a lot hi-fi), now I don't even own a car (or hi-fi for many years) - it's true you're never too old to learn. 😆

When we last had a hire car it arrived with a diagram on the paperwork showing where the fuel gauge needle was when the car arrived and the car must be returned or collected with at least the same amount of fuel in it, it was one half of a segment below half full and by a bit of planning that's how it went back without the need to top up from a gallon (5l) can which was the contingency plan.

Years ago I had small capacity turbo'd Japanese engines cars and one with a turn of the century rarity a very good Merc engine (that later totally balls'd up the models and brand) so I'm used to better. The Fabias aren't bad cars, like all modern cars they're over heavy, but a previous model apparently had weights added to stop it being quicker than the VW model. The standard versions aren't much for chassis and handling but given they're more than capable that can make them more fun for spirited driving within the safety limits of the roads. Any modern car with a bit more power and handling is generally, to me at least, very boring on the roads as they're over capable, the super and hyper cars are totally impractical on other than dual or motorways which is why many of their owns have very modest cars for fun. I agree you might as well have an auto with the Fabia 1 litres but to generally ignore any gear selection numbers it puts up and all the computer systems and programs can have annoying quirks you have to get used to it seems, I've only driven a manual version for a few weeks. Yes, over the air computer updating and Tesla, and "driverless" cars, subjects I'd best not comment on, as for full self driving at the moment, Tesla or others 😄. Those wheeled delivery pod things I think will help with perhaps very localised or regional rented systems on some roads or more likely terrain in military uses. Unfortunately I've had to deal with the UK motor trade for decades so I know how bad some (many?) of them are, I've been ripped off by con-men that kept their reputation for being experts with the general public and many in the trade despite some knowing better (MG and Triumph "classic" car specialists, still going I think). SAAB 99 was a car I wouldn't have minded but could never afford at the time (or now) but I'd have preferred a 96, no that's a Škoda before VW took over, a Estelle Rapid 130, later versions feature in UK car magazines as the poor man's Porsche (I wish I could find that to show the Porsche owners I knew and know) and " ... is more fun than a [ Golf ] GTi". When I had my Eagle F1 tyres on the saloon Estelle that followed that car I annoyed a Beemer driver by keeping with him on the country roads, quieter roads and I was younger and perhaps sillier than now.

Until a couple of years ago my everyday car for the previous 16 years was a 1973 MG Midget and for 30+ years I had other "classics" (over-priced and over-valued old cars, as you know) as dailies, for work, commuting (300 and 500 miles per week for many months), club events and tours, holiday tours in UK and nearer Europe. So you can guess I don't mind doing without the modern driver "aids" and "assists" and infotainment and a lot of the other features. I do see there point and no doubt in an emergency I would be very grateful for them but their reliability of accurately reporting in the real world should not be over relied on. I also drove my wife's 2015 Fabia and neighbour more modern and new cars so know how hit and miss these systems are, and how the gear selection recommendations are often not the best for economical running let alone driving and perhaps. My wife told me her Fabia tyre pressure warning system was far too slow to be of use for a genuine flat tyre and I'd never rely on it for pressures, a top pocket gauge is good enough, consistency is better. Obviously it's better to know the tyre is low before cornering if possible, which can be possible sometimes/often by some routine driver maintenance checking (with a top pocket or other reliable gauge). Being older and used to driving more basic cars (though modern cars are still ancient technologies with some computer systems (wot could possibly go wrong 🙃) on them) we're used to being more aware of the cars we're driving than perhaps those who only have experience of very modern cars some of who over rely on the car and its computer systems. It's been the case for decades that items are not fitted or even removed or not activated or switched off to justify higher trim levels marketing and pricing. The one that really annoys me on my wife's Fabia is needing the ignition on to operate the front doors windows, I'd be happy with hand crank at front as well as rear, unless I'm in a wide car. Then there's the silly decades old fashion for over large wheels and tyres . . . 😄

In that case I could go with every 4 years. I'm not sure why it's time related and not also mileage, more miles, annually perhaps, may mean less gear changes on the other hand the bits moving can be better than them not. Be interesting to see what ZF Transmission say about the every 4 years oil changes.

Ah -ar. 👍 Very simple, two explanations, a) are the letters VW (VAG) and b) is many/most car/vehicle manufacturers what cheap, not just as chips but also chips, programming and development. They of course copied good ole (smaller) English car manufacturers where the customers did the product development with use and real world use of their vehicles and some adapting and modifying. Then there was competition from those manufacturers that made better products and less corporate American style business practices. Costello V8 to Rover RV8 to MGF (via MX-5) for you. 😁 Did you inherit the Fabia, a gift from someone that doesn't like you, or like me it's your wife's car and she makes her own choices and decisions but expects you to sort anything car related. 😄 Great to have your knowledge and expertise on here. A 2017 keeps you out of some experiences, even if a VW three-pot (makes an A-series seem as sweet as a nut), get yourself a 2018, 2019 or later and you'll be using your knowledge and expertise to more use on your own VW product and able to pass on the resolves. 😁

Thank you. That is very good. Useful info, no reason why (other than its's beyond them) that VW couldn't have put this in the cars' 'Owner's Manual', you have put it far better than the German engineering trainee that they seem to get to write the Owner's Manuals, before it's sent in German language to another non-English speaking country to be translated to English for UK market. You could also add to your first point, in better language and explanation than I, the battery being low from use, abuse and neglect. There should be a sticky on your post for it's usefulness and clarity of explanation (normally sacking offences for anyone working in anything to do with computers, computer systems and computer programming). If you could do the same for front "assist" (collision avoidance) and lane "assist" that would be great I know they'd be longer and much longer of why they go from acting like the most nervous inexperienced-driver front seat passenger, that grabs the wheel and jumps on the pedal, to totally missing obvious dangers.

In the past I've bought this and next service/year's engine and longer for other oils particularly if on offer or there's going to be a change of multigrade range. If storing it wants to be in reasonable conditions particular if opened, and I occasionally turn upside down and back again a few times whilst in storage and a bit before use to make sure nothing settles but isn't too shook up before use. That may be more than really necessary but it's not hard work and I only do it in passing very occasionally if I think about it. I used to have gallons (well 5l) cans of car wax/polish which I'd buy when on very good offer and use or give away yet I'm still down to my last gallon (5l) and I very rarely clean a car (other than exterior lights, number plates, mirrors and rear window and wiper on the Fabia, or others).

Yes they have PITA digital (on a computer/in the ether) service records now which if the car has had the services done at VWŠkoda garages should be recorded, a Dealership given the reg and VIN should be able to give you a paper printed copy of the "Complete record" that is on that database - as with all databases and information there can be errors and omissions, and I can personally assure you VWŠkoda (UK) can have errors in the record (how from the Dealership inputs is beyond me but you are not only dealing with humans but also humans and their computers inputs and programming. Do bear in mind very little work is done at a "service" on the engine let alone the much more important systems, components and parts on the car. The "Maintenance" work offers a little more scope and should be shown on the "Complete" or "individual" service records. Does anything need servicing on a panoramic roof (other than keeping your 12v battery in reasonable condition, I doubt any clean, and if required lubricating, would come under any "service" or "maintenance". schedule. 5-6 years old company car I'd expect to see changes of brake fluid, cabin and engine filters, sparkplugs, air-con service, some I'd expect more than one change. Sounds right - but don't expect too much that is good to be normal with the UK motor trade. Unless the owner's friend left working for the garage I'd wonder why he didn't have it serviced at the place. Note what I put before about MoTs (particularly if done in-house, in-trade or maters). VWŠkoda dampers ("shock absorbers") seem to be poor quality and "mist" from months old and fail far too early, the have to be replaced with better quality ones to break the replacement cycle. That is not so good in two respects, very low mileage like that isn't good for the car, they are designed and built to be driven. Do check the 12v battery has been looked after during that time or replaced and that no "services" have been missed or later just because of the lack of mileage. Also not so good he couldn't sell the car in a year but that might be seller expecting too much money for the car or many, many other reasons, perhaps some might be good for the buyer now - or not good. Sometimes depends how much you pay for these services as to how good and accurate the reports are, then they won't show anything that was never reported no matter how good they are, always get the best report you can and when certain on the car have it checked by a reliable mechanical/electrical/engineering service or person. I know I sound negative but it's not against you, however you say it's your first car purchase and even those in the car buying and selling trade for decades make mistakes and no one is born knowing so you want to treat your findings, initially at least, as ruling out cars you just don't like or want and not ruling them in without others actually seeing the car in the metal and then on to driving and mechanical/electrical testing. That doesn't sound right - why would there be peeling paint? You need to look and drive other examples of exactly the same to be able to judge and compare against this one. This is a large long car so should feel very comfortable, a better smaller shorter car may not feel as comfortable even though it's better. Until you have a lot of proof otherwise don't trust anyone related to the UK motor trade particularly car sales men (and perhaps some sales women), nor mechanics/technicians, sorry but that's the way it is generally I'm afraid. The advert states "Excellent condition" and "perfect condition" you've said there are dinks and peeling paint, "FULL SKODA SERVICE HISTORY" so what proof is there of this and is it a full history, has ALL servicing and "maintenance" been carried out and at correct times(?). The advert blurb as usual has a lot of near meaningless stuff in it. Do you want or need a panoramic sunroof and/or heated front seats, if not they're not features or benefits to you but more to potentially go wrong and drain your 12v (expensive) battery. Do you need a big heavy (any VW product) car like a Superb (estate) or equivalent. It's a 220Ps engin'd car so has it been ragged (driven too hard) or used for towing or lugging full on-board loads. 60k-miles isn't a lot but you know of at least one period of very low mileage/use have there been others or periods of very high mileage/use and late "services" and "maintenance". 19" wheels and tyres are large even for the decades of stupidly large impractical wheels and tyres fashion, are they too impractical for you and your use (on our 3rd-world state of roads). I have no idea of the prices and values but to me near £16 grand is a lot of money and having wasted many, many, tens of thousands of pounds on cars over decades far too much to waste on any car (unless I get a big lottery win when I might go £20k on a "classic") and as I put before for an standard car I'd be looking at other brands of (slightly) older cars for the same money. I don't envy anyone buying a car and particularly not in more recent decades, private sellers can be very unrealistic and trade sellers are well trade sellers, most are annoying nightmares that may have to be tolerated to some degree or made aware very early on not to try too much on if any at all. Remember there are lots of cars for sale and you are one-half of any purchase or contract so if you are unhappy with something and it can't or isn't sorted to your liking then don't be part of the sale or contract or exercise any right out of the sale or contract as early as possible, it's always buyer beware with cars in the UK. Good luck.