nta16

First click and no further is a good idea. The cap if it clicks and continues to click as you turn it more but felt firmly on at first click (of cap) then that's how the cap might be. You could try cleaning and lubricating the inside of the cap to see if that makes any odds as fantastic-plastic to metal parts do sometimes age and stiffen up. The oil filler cap on my wife's Fabia is now stiff, (metal) oil filler caps would last decades/life of engine on all the other (non-German) cars we've ever had. Cleaning the fuel filler cap shouldn't make any odds but if you repeat the process and get the same result it might be significant. There could be more than one cause contributing to one or both error codes and warnings. Is there more information, scan tool report, error codes, freeze frames, live data, service history, parts fitted or work done on the car (before these codes). All pipes, hoses, trunking, connectors need to be securely held and connected, without cracks. Time for tea /dinner . . .

I could well be wrong as I often am many times each day but I'd have thought the cleanliness wouldn't just be down to the G13 specification (whatever that is) but also, or, other actors to do with the change of coolant and how this was done. But if a particular (make, type of) G13 coolant does a good overall job then obviously it's worth sticking with, what works well in application is worth sticking with unless things change.

Mechanic and taxi seem lower rates than in UK, the radiator depends on whether it's from China or not.

Hi, welcome. If you are just asking for purge valve costs for ideas only that's fine but do not replace the part just on the error codes (sorry I've no idea of costs but others might/will). Ross Tech 16825/P0441/001089 - https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089 Be careful with error codes as they are not always full or final diagnostics and need checking, cross referencing to confirm anyway, it may end up with you replacing that part but it needs checking first. I'm not saying these have been taken and given incorrectly but the code reader / scan tool does need to be VW appropriate and its program correct for your model and age of car and that program up to date before any readings taken (many users are too lazy or pushed for time to do this), and the car's 12v battery and if appropriate tool battery need to be in a reasonable state of charge otherwise spurious readings can be given. Easy things to do are check the fuel filler cap is tightly secured and seal(s) look good and that the area and drain hole aren't full of dirt debris. Have you overfilled the fuel tank recently or fairly recently? Were the error codes cleared and then returned? HTH.

The chart I put up was to confirm miscibility and provide viewers with reference to all these (additional) German / VW colours and numbers to coolants, it seems to me like possibly at some point at least the VW engineers had to ask for the coolant to be changed to cover for mistake and/or compromises in the VW engines and/or systems. The fact that you haven't noticed any colour change (depending on the strengths of the two separate dyes) shows how much residue of existing coolant was left and still in your car's cooling and heating system from the leak and changing the radiator.

The violet is an insipid colour on the VW labelled 12evo coolant I've used, but certainly not red - not that you should ever just trust the coolant by it's colour as they do vary, old stuff used to be blue or green, same stuff but very different colour. The gloop that comes out from combinations of coolants and additives can be all sorts and marble effect, it instinctively doesn't look right or good, bit like those bright alcopops. 🙂

So the petrol pump suggests consumption or fuel quantity, the figures or lack of figures can show differently if the car is stationary or going slow, range will relate to previous 50km consumption, even VW can't predict the future (hence not getting away with dieselgate). Why you see 20 or 40, relating to fuel, I don't know. Build year doesn't really matter I was just trying to check if this is a 2011 car and not a typo, you can use the car's VIN to find the appropriate Owner's Manual. The only dealings I've had with a Citigo is a neighbour's where the battery was very low and needed recharging, using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for charger. He didn't follow my advice and get and use an appropriate charger maintainer later so later still he had to have the RAC and their expensive new battery delivery, fitting and battery 'coding' service, at least they fitted a large AGM battery knowing how little the car was used and how often it sat unused (like many cars particularly of this type). At first I thought the 40 and speedo needle being at about 40 it might be speed limiter as I know so little of these cars and their dash instrument displays. So I'm at a loss then and again now. Hopefully a Citigo owner, or other my knowledgeable person than me will be along with an answer for you.

On such an old design and build of engine and cooling system, even the mighty Germans and VW, I think you worry too much about the dictates of VW and their confused and altered coolant regime. Yes it's best to stick with same make and model and formula of coolant as much as possible but as long as they mix and tolerate each other and are both suitable for your use things should be fine. Normally I would think the needle on the gauge might no tell you much but you have such previous testing and information if anyone can notice a difference from such it will be you. When the fan operates might be more of a (rough) indicator, the later the better. Colour looked the same(?), I hope that mechanic doesn't do the electrical wiring on the car. 🙂

The difference to BL was no one was believed their marketing, the German marques trade(d) on long lost quality and reliability. Then of course you had BMW "buy" Rover, a mate has only recently got rid of a BMW Rover 75, the bits that caused issue (when he first bought it s/h) were mainly BMW bits, like when they forced their engines into the Range Rover and issues that caused. I'm old enough to remember the flag saluting British buyers turning their noses up at the Japanese cars, mainly Datsun then, for the crappy BL products, I'm all for buying British where appropriate and possible, I've kept the UK economy going with my purchases and ownership of English made cars (old and new). Yeah I'm sure our British snobbery, class system and poor quality managers and management would have done for the German brands (bearing in mind it was a low ranking British military man that kept VW going after WW2). 😄 VW aren't bad cars, generally they're quite good but not as good, or perhaps anywhere near, as some VW fans believe, just a question of balance (anyone for Moody Blues).

Be interesting to see how much difference a clean (no debris and/or gloop inside) new radiator makes to cooling.

Not in this case, it's a Mk3 Sprite (Mk2 Midget, so a "Spridget") the lift-off fibreglass front isn't standard (those were fixed steel panels). It's a used car (unusual in the old-fart world of MG "classics") so has a few modifications, it's lost its 1100 and on a NOS later tweaked 1275 A-series for much later BL model but never fitted sounds, non-standard exhaust, it sounds like a 2-litre coming down the road. Banded 5" wheels (from the standard 3.5"). Needle front wheel bearings too to save common hassle of modern parts quality. It drivers very well.

You seem to have a couple (that I noticed) wild ambient air temperature readings too. 63c and 77c, lots of wild readings reported - do any of those prevent the engine from being run (perhaps by stopping fuel) (I've no idea)?? Have you tried switching the pump on to see if it actually runs, then there's checking the usual, power, return and computer getting to pump. Have you got any wires or connected crossed or exposed/damaged. There's obviously a lot more to the story of your post and scan report but it'd be beyond me anyway. I think you need to do checks, cross-checks and procedures in stages and make sure one or more things aren't interfering or causing issue(s) with one or more other things. Ross Tech 16864/P0480/001152 - https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16864/P0480/001152 Hopefully someone else will be along with some idea(s) about all this, good luck.

On my neighbour's 1992 Merc I superglued the German fantastic-plastic outlet back together and used two slim (worm drive) 'Jubilee' hose clips facing opposite ways, hoping that if the glued joint broke away the one hose clip would hold the hose to the radiator for long enough. Superglue has held and top hose with two clips remain after 1 or 2 years (I forget) as used radiator has never been sourced or fitted. Not worth it for the miniscule annual mileage the car gets used for. The mate that bought my Midget about 5 years ago took a chance and bought a cheap Chinese radiator for his "Spridget" and that has been fine and he uses the car often, sometimes the gamble pays off - but that radiator is very easy to get at and replace (more so as the whole fibreglass front end can be also be removed).

Hi, welcome. It sounds like to me you've let the car's 12v battery get too low for the liking of the car's complex intertwined computers systems and programs. This can be despite the headlights seeming bright enough and the engine starting easily. The start-stop not operating when it should is often the first sign and warning of the charge in the battery being too low for the liking of the computers and if not recharged sufficiently you can go on to all sorts of unexpected warnings and warning lights, issuers and unseen error codes. The best way to resolve this is to fully recharge the car's 12v battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the Owner's Manual for the car and the instructions for the charger maintainer. A lower longer slower recharge is usually better than a higher, shorter faster recharge. A 4-amp (opr lower) charger maintainer is reasonable choice but this may take many hours to fully recharge the battery so may take more than one session to fully recharge the battery but this is very easy, (clean) hands-off work whilst you do something more interesting. To prevent a reoccurrence you could do occasional preventative charging of the battery, to full, and this will extend the reliable and useful life of the battery, possibly by a lot but this depends how bad the battery was allowed to go. On the other hand you may prefer the convenience of prematurely replacing the expensive battery and having it 'coded', bit of a waste of materials and money to my mind but each to their own. Once you have fully recharged the battery see if the coil light remains as it's easily possible to have two or more issues at once. Also of course (full and timely) servicing and maintenance, or lack of, can effect the car and what lights it might throw up. ETA: in the Owner's Manual you can look up what a flashing coil warning light could mean. Link to VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals website. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Also link to 'Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020)' forum for more information, threads, posts by owners of that model and year. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ HTH.

For a good number of years now when buying boxed or loose nuts, bolts, setscrews, threaded bars, I always test the threads before putting into store or use, I run three of opposite items both ways of item and length of thread (so six tests) by fingers any that are sticky or go tight I either throw away or perhaps save them for easy to get at locations where there won't be too much moisture or debris making them more difficult to use or remove. German engineering quality !?! More German engineering quality and love of (cheaper) fantastic-plastic instead of metal, not only on, around but also in the engine. Around the end of the last century and beginning of this is when I remember the famed "German engineering quality" really fading away. Around that time I had mates with big Mercs and BMWs and unfortunately I had to deal with Merc Dealerships because my wife wanted her (imported LHD) smart serviced with them and looked to buy the then new upcoming roadster model, Merc were not good at simple work on the smart or even selling the new model and they were the same people that dealt with the cars that were what about 20 times the cost. Thankfully they had different paint to the Mercs so it didn't need redoing after a few months or years. Personally I always found the Japanese cars were better quality. Merc did manage to balls-up the new Roadsters which became known as Leaksters, having had a brief dealing with smart UK when they set up in HQ in Milton Keynes I'm not surprised.

Well done. More advice for you and your daughter, WD-40 Multi-Use is fine in an emergency but a better longer lasting lubricant and penetrating/releasing fluid is GT85. It used to be a British company but is now part of a large invasive American corporation . . . called WD-40 Company! https://gt85.co.uk/product/gt-85-spray/

Found it. Or was this all deleted after 2016?

Have you had a look at the Owner's Manual for ?Emergency door locking? I'll see i I can find my jpg. Also see synchronising the remote control -

What button/stalk are pressing to get those figure up? Does the petrol pump go off when in another mode/menu? It's a Version 2 dash but is it a 2011 car (MY, reg year or build year)?

M18? The ones I have are M14 x 1.5 thread, 25mm threaded, 150mm long overall, you might want longer for your road tractor, knurled and slotted finger end. HTH.

No need to lock up your dog, you could lock yourself in the car to test the inside alarm is turned off or on, obviously you can't trust just one testing you need to repeat a couple of times art least - and it's a good way to find out how your neighbours are. 😁

There's "steel", steel and then steel. TBH with using two (or even one) with the occasion use and size/weight (even oversized modern fashion wheels) they'd have to be pretty poor quality to break in use, it's things like accuracy and quality of thread going into hub/disc and knurled end as I put that may vary, I was happier with my third one (set of two) than the previous two individual ones I got but all do the job reasonable well. Good luck. (German engineering . . . 😆 ☹️ 0

Sorry I'm lost as to what you mean. If the leak is just from an oil filter housing can't that part be repaired or is it new gaskets/seals aren't available, depends on what the material of the gasket/seal is but a replacement might be able to be fashioned (I don't know but someone who rebuilds engines would). Liquid style gaskets/seals and/or sealants have been used by themselves and in addition to the gasket/seal. The stuff you use has to be suitable for application and be done so that there's no excess to block or break away. ETA: the area or parts that need a gasket/seal and/or sealant have to be apart to make or apply a gasket/seal and/or sealant applied. (seems a bit odd to me you can't get or have made a gasket/seal but I don't know the situation) Easiest way might be to look at a parts diagram to see what oil filter housing is and how it's fixed to the engine and where and what gaskets/seals are used. Unless the filter housing part you're referring to is an integral part of the engine casting? You really need those that know about your particular engine, or research if this is a particular problem that for some reason is difficult to resolve. Diesel engines can leak like sieves, look at "workmen's" vans, where they pull or park up or even pull away from oil on the road, pavement, your drive or grass . . . Yet they still run and (hopefully) have MoTs.

Yeah well, that's "progress" for yer. far too much to put about the infotainment centre on wheels and all its automated systems to try to remove the driver as much as possible (very unreliably limited tho' it is at the moment). VWŠkoda's choice as to how much information they give and in what formats, they seem to restrict information more than other manufacturers I've seen. But this information was on the "virtual"(?) online version of the Owner's Manual, owner/driver(s) just need to be told of its availability though I guess there's something somewhere where you point a "smart" device at a box of squiggles that takes you there or something in the car's computer menus.

Fuel range left in tank, "virtual reserve" 20/40 (miles?), at same time as fuel gauge shows low? Speed limiter? VW computer brain-fart, display error(s)? Right, let's spin some stuff down for a start. Is it a 2011 car (MY, reg year or build year)? Is it Version 2 dash? Does the petrol pump come on at same time as 20/40?