nta16

If there is only one leak and this leak is inside the car from the A/C and the A/C drain terminates under the car as in your photo then could the leak to the footwell be a partial leak from the A/C, some to footwell and some to underside of car and/or at certain points of A/C use. Or the water in the footwell isn't from the A/C but from something or somewhere else. In your photo I'm not sure if there is one or two drops of water shown, is that a second water drop from the what looks a bit like a nut or is that an optical illusion. I've never studied or know where the A/C drains under the car. Having had old English cars (some soft-tops) in UK weather for decades I have dealt with quite a few leaks and "water ingress" and know where the water shows may be far from where it originates, gravity, and motion from driving, the architecture of the car and it's components and parts mean find the point of origin isn't always straightforward (same as tracking down sounds and vibrations). Someone with access to the correct diagrams and parts catalogues may be able to give you more information about the parts and routing of A/C drain - such as the Dealership parts and warranty/repairs/service sections. Was you given details of the fix last by the Dealer last year to know if it was on the A/C, drain pipe/tube, gasket(s) or other, if not ask them for details, they will have some sort of record of this. Or perhaps you could contact a HVAC specialist the works on VW products including VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3. HTH, sorry it's all I have. When you find out perhaps you could post back here to help others in the future., good luck.

How, what, why? Did you report this on the threads which were created for this one of which is clearly show at the top of this page. This seems a bit unnecessary, ungrateful and even in my opinion spiteful - but you are free to put what you have and as "I am not a number I am a free man" (as No. 6 told us) so is my response to you. You seem to have the arrogant privileged attitudes of a self-acclaimed freeman, please go to where you feel more suited.

Good advice already given. You might still be able to reuse that part, depends on existing fixings, their state and what they fix to, if the part is just some sort of cover but difficult to tell without more info. For future your photo is too small to zoom in on or see too much (difficult to get scale for size of part other than estimation) and there's no info on what year or model trim your car is other than you've posted in the Fabia Mk3 2014-21 forum. Unfortunately it's not a part I recognise from being under the front of my wife's 2015 Fabia more times than I'd like (which is none really). Let us know how you get on and what it is or if you want more info or advice.

Hi, welcome. Sorry I can't see where the drain valve actually is let alone any tube from it on any diagrams. As I would have thought the tube terminates under the car and your leak is from inside the car I wonder if it is the mentioned drain valve gasket(s) that might have failed (once or twice?) or not been fitted correctly (once or twice). If your car or the fix is/are still under warranty then the Dealership should sort this fully for you. HTH.

Thanks for the photos, at the very least they show the style of dash dials layout you have. More advice, for photos like these taking them in landscape instead of portrait generally gets more information in the image. One of my hobby horses is the battery in low state of charge causing all sorts of unexpected warning lights, messages, unseen error codes and issues even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts - BUT - I don't think this is the case for you, if only for the reason I put before (but I could be wrong, I am many times per day). Another hobbyhorse of mine is people changing the battery prematurely, it's one of the most oversold car parts. A lot of time just properly recharging the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer can add possibly many years reliable useful life to the battery with just perhaps (very) occasion preventative charges to follow. A good battery maintainer can be bought for £15-£30 and is easy, clean-hands stuff (can't call it work even really) which anyone can do and with time and patience frequently better than a garage, mechanic or auto-electrician will do. By all means charge the battery but don't think about replacing it without having it properly tested (which you could easily learn to do if you were interested) by a trustworthy person - but again if there was any hint of the battery being iffy I think you'd have been sold a new expensive one with 'coding'. But I could be wrong, a quick test would give me an idea of how the battery might be. If it's not been done you want the engine air filter changed (and air box and tube wiping clean) a job you could possibly do and possibly better than a garage or mechanic. You also want the three spark plugs changed, a little bit more to it but again a job you could do if you wanted. You will do a good job because you care about the quality of the work and (if you're sensible) won't put yourself under any time pressure to rush the job or cut corners (unlike perhaps some garages, mechanics, auto-electricians). Don't get me wrong there are some good people about that do a good job and are allowed to do a good job just that in my experience they seem fewer and further apart, and generally very busy with plenty of work (some don't work weekends or past Sat morning). I loathe working on cars, particularly my own and more so my wife's VWŠkoda, and I'm not mechanically minded and certainly not good at mechanics but still I have found I can often do "service" and "maintenance" and (proper) service work and maintenance better than some of the professionals I've paid in the past. I started by redoing and putting right the work they had done so certainly not by choice. I wasn't thinking of your driving techniques particularly just that some owners of 1 litre Fabias even those who have been driving for a very long time find the engine can "cut-out" on occasions for a couple of reasons, I don't think (obviously can't know) this impacts the issue you have but it might be an add-on to it making it more difficult to sort one from other, like the start-stop so eliminating it just removes a distraction. When I first drove my neighbour's 2023 Nissan Cashcow with start-stop and manual gearbox, it caught me out at a busy roundabout when I thought I needed to give way then didn't need to and my brain adjusted for this but not the car's and then later the car's lane and front "assist" wanted to think about things and decide when I wanted to accelerate on the dual-carriageway. I had to adjust my driving because I was not fully in charge of the driving as I was much more used to, more of a collaboration with me as very much the junior partner despite the car's inferior programming. (Do NOT rely on these "assists" as they still have many flaws, errors and omissions, and yes so do all human drivers but we have more real life, real world, experience). A good auto-electrician should be able to diagnosis at least possible causes in well under one hour but this is not the same as repair/resolve (necessarily). First thing, often forgotten by many is to check the battery terminal post clamps (and major electric (and Earth) connections) are clean, secure and where appropriated protected. A dirty or loose battery connections have caught out those that know better - and that's just a start of simple things that can be missed by others. Good luck and do let us know how this goes on or if you need more info or advice.

2001 is a modern car, you can get around most parts and components no need to think of giving it up, I'd much sooner have a 2001 (well older and much older really) car than 2021+ car, the bits on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 really annoy me, as well as the VW German engineering "quality" parts and components on it and they'd be better than the later years! Blue/white Tac a Verisure disc above the ignition barrel and if you get a non-start you can remove the disk to a safe distance to get going and later put the Verisure disc back again for more testing to confirm if the Verisure does caused any interference - you'd not think it would but you'd then be very sure about it. Ooooow ! "I'll get me coat." ETA: until nearly 3 years ago my every day (one and only) car for the previous 16 years was a 1973 MG Midget.

Yes, but -

I'm not trying to get at you but just explain, the "service" that modern cars get annually are little more than engine oil and filter changes and a look for more chargeable work, this isn't even a service for the engine let alone for the car as a whole. The "maintenance" schedule gives a bit more of what would have formally been service work but again mainly based on the engine. The engine is not a very important car system or component when compared with the important car systems, components and parts which are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights and safety electrics (horn, wipers, blower, some electronic systems, etc..) windows, mirrors (and reflective number plates) (see and be seen). If the car is lower annual mileage and mostly short journeys for the engine at least it is perhaps even more important that the engine oil is changed annually than if it was a higher annual mileage and used more regularly for longer journeys. This of course doesn't allow for (unknown) mileage and use of the car before your ownership. If the start-stop works when it should that suggests the battery isn't too low in charge at least - but it wasn't the reason for my suggestion, which might not prove or help but is very quick and easy to try and costs no money. Plugging in a scan tool, even a Dealership level one, is just one tool used towards the start of a diagnostics process and only reads what has been recorded by the car's systems (if it is not also used in other ways such as more testing and live data from car being driven). Whatever it reports, or doesn't report, has to be interpreted and perhaps other tools used and further diagnostics, a no-error-code-shown isn't necessarily a clean bill of health (though it might be, more checking and cross referencing is usually/often required). Leaving the car in first gear when parked up (though normally not necessary) isn't the same as being in 1st gear whilst waiting at traffic lights, I'm trying to establish if I should direct you to other threads that might be useful rather than just seeing what I can pick out with your driving, I'm assuming you might have been driving for around a decade and the issue(s) only started 2/3 months ago. This being done over the internet is not the same as being able to see and test the car and as a passenger in it when it plays up so without lots of questions things can't be checked and crossed referenced to prevent wrong assumption and making suggestions of some possible things this/these issue(s) might be (and/or might not be). I made the assumption when you put "ECU" you might mean EPC and perhaps a typo (I make loads of typos) but it needs checking and confirming as there's no other information about this to see. A 2020 reg car could possibly have been made in 2019, VIN (perhaps build date) is needed to pin down any build or parts/components/software batch issues - and don't expect the Dealership to always tell you about those, an independent garage might have those on their databases or information they have access to - and your car might not have any but again the information helps to point to threads where other owners have had issues with Fabias/engines made at the same time. ETA: IF the plugs haven't been replaced then at the least the "maintenance" schedule hasn't been followed and you can take much of the "service" and "maintenance" as minimum rather than best requirements. The lights going off with the old "turnin'-it-off-'n'on-agen" is good in some respects but if the lights intermittently return then it's not a real solution.

If you had a modern VWŠkoda you would have intermittent system fails and hiccups or computer brain-farts a lot more often than once in 5-years. Yes you want to be cautious as this has happened but a one-off might be caused by something else. Firstly, is your "spare" key used as a spare in that it is very rarely used or as it better as a the other key(s) (or another if more than two keys) alternating use in some pattern with other(s) keys. Alternating keys evens out wear to the keys and lock barrels and confirms all work (and for those that mislay or lose them) where they are to be found when needed. Is there anything on or hanging from the steering column (cowl, switch/barrel) or key or key ring (some people have far too many keys on a key ring) any decoration or item put and left, it can be surprising what can interfere and perhaps intermittently. I don't know the old VWŠkoda immobiliser systems but generally these old systems are fairly straightforward (which is often much better than later more complex systems) so parts replacement (where available) are simpler if required. IIRC the ring thing (I forget what it is called) is (I think) more likely to go than the chips but others will know a lot better than I. Why would you have to get rid of the truck because of an immobiliser problem, worse case you could replace the system, or wire round it, depends on your insurance on what is actually an immobiliser or if you actually need one to comply. A mate found this out recently with his 1996 car which he had not used because he thought he needed the electronic immobiliser for insurance and the auto-electrician kept letting him down on the replacement, turned out the battery isolator he had fitted counted anyway. Of course I have no idea of any French laws (do they have many).

ETA: I forgot - what has changed in the last 2/3 months, any work done on the car, part(s) fitted, used differently, driven differently? What is the "service" and "maintenance" history of the car like, has all "service" and "maintenance" work been carried out to schedules - brake fluid changed, engine air filter changed, spark plugs changed, engine oil and filter changed each year, cabin filter, (air-con)?

Might not be relevant but how many forward gears? So does the engine stop when you are stopped at the traffic lights or cut out before? You could try turning the start-stop off to see if it makes any difference or helps the issue in any way. EPC and which engine light show on the dash, is it this ? Are both these lights amber? Did either of both garages check the sensor for security of fixed position, not dirty or obstructed do you know? When the car is stationary at the traffic lights in 1st gear(?) do you have the clutch pedal fully depressed and your foot on brake pedal or foot off brake pedal and handbrake on? As you approach the traffic light to stop at them how are you applying the foot brake to slow and stop, light or firmer pressure, what gear are you in then? To save space you don't need to quote my posts, or only in parts if you want.

Some questions then. I assume you have a 1.0 litre petrol engine, is that correct? Do you have a DSG automatic gearbox or a manual gearbox, and how many gears if manual? Have you tried switching off the start-stop (by pushing the button to off when you turn the ignition on or just after starting the engine and leaving it deactivated for the whole journey)? What gear or selection have you made when stationary at traffic lights, and just before so shifted out of? Have a look at the Owner's Manual for your car and confirm which warning lights you get, the name/title that VWŠkoda use in the Owner's Manual, to be sure which you mean, and/or take a photo of them if they are alight, not just for here but to show the garages(s). Following are for examples of some warning lights only (from my wife's 2015 Owner's Manual).

Not meaning anyone here, but people who lie and break laws aren't always the cleverest of people, people with things like misspaced numberplates and too dark tinted windows don't seem to realise those can be signs shouting out "stop me" or "check me" as I disregard rules, regulations and laws and those are possibly just the start going on to more serious law-breaking and criminality. I'm not defending the current insurance companies (though there are a few that are good) but in different lives I have dealt with the public and can assure you people are people whether they work for (or own) an insurance company or are just buying insurance some people are good and some are bad and everything in between. No, I've never worked for (and certainly not own) an insurance company but have bought and dealt with lots of car insurance over four decades.

If you have a specialist car or modified a lot then specialist insurance may offer better policies and premiums. The comparison sites are more for Joe and Jane average. Always makes me laugh when I see "average savings" advertised by some companies and the "average savings" are a lot more than the premium for our car(s) - it is of course an old car and we are old people with full protected NCB. It's also about where you live, work, your job, etc., etc..

That would be a different registration though. I make many alterations to quotes each year but not about the car itself and have lots of quotes on the same comparison site or provider and never had a problem. I go through TopCashback comparison site that gives us £45 back (a good percentage of premium) and takes us to the same comparison sites and providers as not going through them at same or lower prices - with £45 to come back later. What makes a difference to premium cost is how early or late you buy the insurance prior to renewal date and possibly sometimes time of day and which day of the week but biggest difference is buying early before renewal date. I never go for cheap but lower priced good quality, cheap is for when you are never going to claim but if you do it often doesn't work out to be cheap in price but only cheap service and covering of costs. Be interesting to hear what Hastings say. After the brokers (and including some of them) there's not many companies actually covering car insurance, same names appear no matter who you go through. And where is good value one yea often isn't the next as despite what you might hear they're all competing for your business sometimes against themselves with different or same name. Always cancel automatic renewal, or don't take it in the first place, and don't wait for late renewal notice with next year's cost either contact them and ask or look on your insurance account website. The nearer you get it sorted to 30 days before renewal usually the better the offers and premium price.

It shouldn't be the battery as you'd hope the independent and Škoda garages would have at least noted if the battery was in a lower state of charge let alone health, and would have at least told you if not recharged the battery (or more likely with Škoda garage charge to, er, charge the battery or sell you an expensive new battery and 'coding'). You can recharge the battery if required as good as if not better than the garages using an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions for this in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's instructions. Whilst it's always a good idea to have the battery in a good state of charge (and health) especially with electric, electronic and engine starting issues I doubt this is the cause of interment issues. Loose battery terminal clamp(s) or earth or other connections maybe, for intermittent. If you have notes of when this intermittent issue happens there might be a pattern (cold and/or wet weather, after car has stood for a while, after care gets hot, anything else happens at the same time, etc.. This issue could be caused by quite a few things and needs proper diagnostics, probably with the use of traditional diagnostic tools and an appropriate scan tool. A good auto-electrician should be able to diagnosis this but intermittent issues are often difficult to pin down until they're playing up. Then you have to consider computer programs and perhaps updates. Have a look at this VWŠkoda website for any Recalls for your car (well the ones that VWŠkoda admit to anyway (again garages should have checked their databases for Recalls and technical bulletins on issues). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns 2019 Fabias had a few issues (poor quality electric relay not working when cold, petrol throttle body part needed) possibly 2020 too, then of course late 2020 to 2021 might have the effects of Covid parts and production but I've no idea how much that effected Fabias other than some cheaper radios being fitted IIRC. If you haven't had the car from new then there might be something in its history you don't know about, anything else not working as it should on the car, is the car factory standard or has anything been added or changed.

If it's one side then yes it points to a flap on that side or what ever moves the flap or the mechanism, buzzing might be it trying to move but not able to. Presumably driver and front passenger are independent for settings. Are you able to compare your photo with others on the web to see if that white bit of plastic is sitting right or has anything sitting in that grove or that groove runs on something. You put you've tried the flaps resetting themselves by the unit going through its little dance and recalibrating itself so if the unit won't reset you need to give it a hand to get warm air to your side. Thankfully my wife's car doesn't have this automated system, the standard flaps and mech are bad enough to me without adding in the computers lords and masters to throw their wobblies. I would have thought this subject has been covered on Briskoda, on other models if not Mk3 Fabias Yeti, a Google search often comes back to a post or thread on this site. I'm not sure getting at the heater and motor is that easy or fun (but then nothing is fun on modern cars as so much is packed into spaces which often aren't really enough. Other posters may be able to help you though. Good luck.

19°C and heated seat are you driving in just your underwear. 🙃 Heated anything takes a fair bit out of the battery, you may be fortunate and not have start-stop or a recent(-ish) new battery but if not you might want your charger maintainer ready for preventative rather than reactive recharging. If you've got a vacuum cleaner that blows as well as suck (hose to exhaust outlet) then a quick blast of air might dislodge any debris/crud/broken-bit that is there perhaps causing the transmission of the vibration noise. I bought a £30 Lidl vacuum cleaner just for the blow outlet and use it to better clean out a lot of items - but it's best done outside and careful not to be too close, concentrated, forceful in more delicate situations, like with a power washer, and never let go of the hose or it can go wild. I used it to blow off some surface rust I'd wire-brushed off from the underside of a neighbour's car and even though I was back a bit I wished I'd put goggles on. Made cleaning the "drive" of rust dust very easy though. Also good for back-blowing out other vacuum cleaner filters too.

Yes, unlike the UK which lets car manufacturers get away with lots the Yanks sue as VW found out when fiddling and cheating the diesel figures, hence their subsequent rush into EVs and Chinese market, that's (not) going so well. Of course the very highly paid bosses at the top still keep their jobs, enormous bonuses and enormous pay-offs and pensions so they did learn from USA corporate bosses.

I don't think the Felicia was ever sold in America so if you have bought the European version of the Foxwell that the other person had you should be fine you just need the wiring correct on your car. I would wait and see when Thefeliciahacker arrives as even if you get or borrow a VCDS the OBD port will still need to be correctly wired for that to work and I am not sure how much extra the VCDS may be able to do on a 2000 Felicia though it may be a lot, you could perhaps research on old threads here.

Have you tried putting the previous bulbs back in to make sure it is the LED bulbs at fault? ETA: I have seen owners that like me have had to replace the incandescent DLR which might suggest a fault with the VWŠkoda bulb holder, connector, wiring or other. The RHS incandescent bulb I replace was the most discoloured car bulb I have ever replaced and the bulb holder was discoloured like it had been scorched (more modern German engineering (low) quality on the car). Perhaps you need to use ballast resistors (see below) with your present (and perhaps future) LED bulbs. See link below, I put the "WHITE" bulbs in which show a blueish white but I would have preferred the "warm white" for their more classic incandescent appearance. BUT - note the seller's warning - "These bulbs are canbus error free so can be used in modern cars too though not guaranteed suitable for VW/Audi as they run a different system. Although the vast majority of our customers do not experience any problems, with any aftermarket bulb and especially LEDs, it is not always possible to exactly match your own vehicle's canbus system. This can even vary from vehicle to vehicle with the same make and model. This may lead to bulb failure warnings being shown. If this is the case you will need to purchase ballast resistors which will solve the problem. We have these available." I had no problems just using these LED bulbs they did not need ballast resistors on my wife's (UK) 2015 Fabia. HTH.

My wife's car wasn't reported or evidence of some of the stuff listed in the "services" despite being done at the local VWŠkoda Dealership and paying those Dealership prices. And the car cleaning got progressively worse to the point of scratching the paintwork - no sorry I must be wrong those scratches must have been there before the cleaning, hush my mouth.

You could give that area of white part a little spray (shake can first) of GT85 and see if the noise reduces which might indicate you're in the right area. GT85 - https://gt85.co.uk/

Remember good quality tyres in good quality condition have a big effect of braking (steering and suspension (road holding, handling, comfort and noise)) and keeping maintained and if required adjusted if not self-adjusting. Have a look in Classic Skoda Guides. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/178-classic-skoda-guides/ Classic Škoda Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/ And perhaps(?) in Performance & Tuning Upgrades. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ For photo if you hold your camera/phone in landscape generally it gets more info into the picture (unless it is a portrait or vertical shot like tyre tread, person/people standing, lamppost, flagpole, etc.). Unless you wanted to included the lamppost light to show how bright your front light bar is. HTH.

Hi, welcome. The boys and girls on the Yeti forum would possibly know, you could ask there or you could have a look at the threads and posts there. - Škoda Yeti - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-%C5%A1koda-yeti/ HTH.