nta16

@Ootohere could you do me a favour please and post your photos of DIY coil pullers or link to post/thread as I know they're in here somewhere but can't find it, even via Google.

Good point, you never know what goes on unless you do it yourself, but my guess is a Dealership would be doing the quickest, shortest method that involved the least materials to save them time and expense (unless it's chargeable to manufacturer or customer. An old independent garage or old mechanic might do though, same as copper-grease isn't recommended for use with brake pads now. I'm with you on that. You can get I think the more expensive type plugs that last longer, I'd guess you'd want to add the grease then for the next plug change many years and miles later. Out of interests which grease did you use, "ordinary" silicone, VW labelled, other?

As my wife's car is a 2015 1.2 TSI (90) I can (ETA: also) cover this question as I did consider buying the special spark plug spanner, coil-puller and grease/lubricant for coil (one of the end ones mainly) and of course the plugs, but as my wife said she'd not have the car 4 years later the additional cost and investment in dedicated tools wasn't worth it compared to just paying the Dealership £99 at the time. I will find the suggestions for DIY coil-pullers for you and post here.

I'm no expert (in anything) but I'd not worry about those plugs. Very good idea that you have changed them, or at least checked them, particularly on a VW engine IMO (VW don't have the experience that the old Japanese 3-cylinder, and much smaller capacity, had in them). You'd have to check but I think the spark plugs come self-lubricated now so no copper-grease or the like is used.

Yes you might find with the oil change that some previous guy's work wasn't as good or careful as it should have been, or a mistake made, and/or perhaps a faulty or damaged part. Good luck, let us know how you get on. ETA: Or perhaps it's a known problem with the engine, component or part, possible age related. When I had my old cars (British from 1960s and 70s) I had to use a gasket sealant a couple of times as I also used a coolant that was very good at finding or making areas of weeps and leaks and some other owners told me that only the (paper) gaskets were required, in my experience they were wrong sometimes. Just in case you should ever need it this is what I used for the coolant system (metal, Red 100 if required, gasket, Red 100 if required, metal), I found it better in that application than the Hylomar Universal Blue.

No you would want the hose made for the job.

Allowing for camera angles and other possible variation I would say needle is the same which makes sense.

Fair enough, I forgot that. I think back then sleeving or inset might have been suggested - but you got 2 years out of a temporary fix so not bad.

Constant pressure(?) German type clamps are fine if you have the correct tool at hand, good for garages as they're quick to use and better perhaps for use on VW fantastic-plastic parts and fittings if you've got professional or slap-dash DIY fixing - but my personal experience is that they can be a right PITA, other may find differently. Personally I dismiss the first video as not enough info is given. The worm drive type clip needs fitting correctly and perhaps checking at some point but if you buy decent quality examples they're fine for decades of use. Personally I have found Norma and Jubilee clips to be fine, for the high-pressure clamps (the Akihisa in the Project Farm vid) I preferred the Norma with folded rather than the very popular over here Mikalor spot-weld joining (these types used for clamping exhaust joints. Project Farm video would have been better for me had all the clips/clamps been the same size or size range, it did highlight the differences with the worm drive clips and quality from China. If the clip/clamp is easy to get at and you have suitable tool(s) then the constant-pressure ones are fine, especially if you don't have t buy it but worm drive correctly fitted are also fine as usual each to their own and buy and use to appropriate application.

Sounds like you have a slight improvement in cooling which may be more noticeable on a hot summer's day in traffic or gunning it up mountain roads. I really dislike the self sealing hose clamps VW use a PITA to me, I bought a remote pistol clamp pliers and still could get it on two clamps on my wife's car and had to use slip joint / water pump pliers at odd angles, I would have changed them to 'jubilee' clamps but Sod's Law I hadn't a good size for application in stock.

That doesn't look great at all, photo suggests the hose might be too short, or perhaps wrong shape, or other end was given too much "spare", or the radiator inlet wasn't positioned correctly for some reason. For many years now I prefer (well made good quality) silicone hoses as they are so much more durable than the replacement hoses I could get and NOS (kept correctly) had disappeared or been used up as far as I could find anyway. When it's possible, pay more and fit once is my motto it usually works out less expensive in money and hassle not to mention possible other damage.

Am I going crazy or was there another post saying the car is now running X10 worse that isn't showing now? If the car is now running worse then there are several routes you can take. Firstly was this tachometer jumping and/or misfire present before you started changing these parts or was it introduced by the change of a part(s) as this would suggest which route(s) you take. a) You could put all the old parts back on and change one part at a time. b) Or you could fit the new module as you have it and it is one of the few parts that hasn't been replaced. If the car isn't running X10 worse then as Paws4Thot has put but if you set the valve clearances cold only 2,000km ago you can skip that. Personally I would put in at least a temporary additional large earth cable to the engine after drop testing the earth from the battery as far back as I could go through the ignition system, confirmation generally needs testing/checking and cross-checking, assumption and guessing often comes back to taking a chunk out of your posterior. One plug, lead, cable, wire connector/connection can often be an issue cause. Not be pessimistic now so don't get dishearten as I am only considering possibilities. Always consider that the tacho jumping and misfire could be two separate issues though they could combine, don't assume if you have sorted one that you have sorted both (though that could be the case you don't know until testing, which might be use of the car) and of course don't assume the the tacho and misfire are the only issues, they could also be masking another/other issue(s). Again these are possibilities and it might be you have only one issue to resolve. Even with complicated issues you should always start with checking the basics and later rechecking the basics, not always but more than enough times complicated issues are resolved by checking (or rechecking) the basics. For me with electrics/electronics that starts at the 12v battery and the battery terminal posts and cable clamps, battery fully or reasonably charged, terminals and clamps clean and secure and then work forward from there as required.

I think (I might be wrong, again) that you put before that you have checked/set the valve clearances already, you have checked the plugs so now get the timing right and then check, adjust as required) fuelling. If you have not already done so make sure your engine air filter (and filter box) are clean. Ignore the tachometer other than as a rough guide, get it sounding smooth and running at steady idle and go from there, I will leave it to others that know more for best method of setting timing, they may need to know you have a module if that wasn't standard to the factory car originally.

It sounds like you may have bought one of the many p1ss-poor, rubbish built Chinese ignition parts. Often they are just a gamble, some work fine, others work for a while then intermittent or complete fail, others still soon play up or fail. I think I put before they were so cheap the purchasers carried the old dissy in their car ready in case the new one needed swapping out - to me, having had decades of unreliable parts, not a good way of doping things. Over here many would have the old dissys refurbished, I preferred a good quality fully (top and bottom) electronic distributor, fit and forget (other than annual clean of rotor and cap posts. Costs more initially but still going reliably after (nearly) 16 years of use.

Not-so-good news I'm afraid, I have just had a look at my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI (90) and it is as dry as a bone down there from what I can see and enough dust in the engine bay of my wife's car to easily show. Plugs have been changed twice (by Dealerships). Expensive poor quality VWŠkoda front dampers certainly oil mist (from at least 11 months old if not sooner or at first use).

Fair enough, I didn't see the note originally, perhaps I missed it or you added it latter, the noise did seem to me to be coincide with the steering wheel being moved but that's on a video over the internet not real life with you actually in the car. Surely if there's rubbing then either the steering rod cowling is too close or the steering wheel is fitted too low or a combination of both, assuming both are factory standard and original to when car was new and not replacements. My last car had a non-original steering wheel rod and I had to cut the (plastic) cowling down to get a good fit. With the distributor I am only used to those with no marking, set up approximately and then adjust as required, timing is set after valve clearances (CB points) and plugs have been checked and adjusted as required and before any fuelling checks and adjustments. Don't worry too much about idle and idle speed shown on dial as long as you get smooth consistent idle after the engine has been fully warmed (engine Oil temperature above 80c and above 90c for better oil (and possibly engine) life. Sorry on second look at vids I noticed what the red thing was. Yes the misfiring could upset the rev counter AFASIK unless VW had things different (the fuel gauge system seemed usual over complicated VW / German set up especially for the make and model of the car at that time so I don't know how over complicated VW might have made the rev counter (Simply (Un) Clever). I'm not sure if the setting of the distributor would cause that much of a misfire reaction but if the distributor isn't fitted correctly (I have heard of one not being fitted so that it was secure so actually moved around, also seen a cap fitted backwards, clip left off, etc.). If your distributor is a cheap one made in China then try refitting your original distributor and see if there is any difference. As I put before it could be the distributor, how it's fitted, (the rotor), the cap, (leads, plugs). Good (landscape) photos of your engine bay might help identify things, can't remember if you have done this before but photos of (dissy) distributor, HT leads, module, coil might help. For earthing check, as with first reply on this thread, a good temporary tester, to engine perhaps if battery to body cable has been checked, is an engine starter jump cable (parked use only of course. You can do no harm adding a permanent good quality and correct sized earth cable to the engine, or to other items if required, perhaps additional wire(s) to items that get poor earthing by factory route. ETA: you can add previous photos you have put up in posts by clicking on the open-file icon on the left hand side of the grey box at the bottom of the post box.

I've got a feeling you might have to get the indictor unit as a whole and you'd obviously take the door mirror unit apart to do the swap., there are probably YT vids on how to do this. The part number probably(?) depends on your VIN/what is on your car. I'd first try the local Dealership parts department as their price and availability might not be as bad as you think. (Sometimes there may also be alternative parts that fit with slightly different part number and different price but I doubt it in this case.) You could also try 'Škoda Parts Direct' (or other suppliers) - https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/ Škoda Parts - https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html LLL Parts - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB 7Zap - https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Skoda/ HTH, let us know how you get on.

My quick thoughts, though I did get a little distracted by the temperature gauge (D.FYLAKTOS will know more about that) and the creaking of the seatbelt(?) was a dominant sound to me. How do the new parts compare to the old parts, are they the same make, model and exact type does the engine normally sit at (a very steady) 1,000 rpm at idle (when warmed)? what is that red thing around the ignition barrel? how does the car and engine sound and feel when the rev counter flicks (you mention misfire)? it may well be somethings else making the sound so I am not sure, does the engine "tappety" (ticky)? Slightly off subject, are you ever able to get the car on to an open road and get the revs and speed higher, lower revs can be good for fuel and engine saving but it does mean that things can get clogged up a bit so the occasional "Italian tune-up" blow-out (the cobwebs) runs are required. Previous models had a green marked section on the rev counter to show where the engine was best suited to use. Of course "Italian tune-up" runs and where you have the engine in the rev range depend on the condition and health of the engine and car and you would not push the engine or car if the engine and whole car are not in reasonable good condition and health. Be interesting to see what @D.FYLAKTOS and @Thefeliciahacker think of those videos being Felicia owners and more knowledgeable.

So good to hear there are still some decent people in the motor trade. Dealerships won't do anything that's not booked or not "to book" (well when it suits them to stick to the book). Personally I think it's very shorted sighted of them but they understand very little about customer service or business other than grabbing as much as they can as soon as they can. I hope you was just just changing back to "summer" tyres (or as we used to call them "tyres") and not buying new tyres from a Dealership as most good tyre places usually offer better value. We don't need winter tyres where I am so I'd have thought it's a little later than I'd expect to be just taking winter tyres off, but depends where you are of course. At change to and from winter tyres is about a good time to do preventative recharges of the car battery. Many don't realise batteries don't like it too hot as well as too cold and there can be lots of battery use in warm weather with more use of air-con. I'm glad you finally got sorted and at so little trouble or cost in the end, and thanks for reporting back.

If it's just a few scratches and that little hole I'd see if a local "chips away" sort of person could sort that. You could go diy to take the scratches out and disguise or repair the hole if you're worried about it, I'd leave it until selling the car as you could get further damage there after this repair. A couple of number plate screws will sort the number plate. (Or - thin out the white tac and it could hold the number plate on for years (I had plastic parts held by blue Tac for years inside and outside the car, car outside through at least two winters. Blue or white tac can make a very strong bond.) It could be very expensive to go through your insurance, even if you have protected No Claims Bonus, you'll lose your Excess and next insurance and following years renewal premium will increase because of the claim which all added together could be a lot of money - for a very small bit of cosmetic damage (assuming nothing else has been damaged or affected).

You are missing G12+ and G12evo. " . . . you put your left leg in, left leg out . . . you do the German coolant cokey . . . that's what it's all about . . . "

It sounds like possibly an ignition or electrical issue to me. Are all earth on car electrics ad electronics (ignition) clean, secure and where appropriate protected. Anything that earths through the engine check that they fully can and that the engine (and battery) earths are also clean, secure and where appropriate protected. Same for connection(s) to board - clean, secure and where appropriated protected. I think we have covered before - not assuming a new part is fully working correctly or installed correctly or that the previous part was correct, or fully working or installed correctly. Something like a frayed unseen wire inside it's insulation can cause problems when under more load (electric or physical) or when something is hot or cold or vibrating from car movement. These are why you do road tests after repair or replacement work, what works when the car is stationary may not, or not fully work, when the car is in actual use on the road. Even a rolling road isn't as good s an actual drive in various conditions (and over longer time periods). Has anything (devices) been added to the car that might cause some sort of interference, any changes from factory standard on electrical wiring, has the wiring been varied from factory type. Are you working on the car in a garage (heated and de-humified or holes in the roof) or outside in the frost, rain or snow. Any water, or other fluid(s) leaks on the vehicle. That's me out of ideas.

Have you checked the VCDS on another car to confirm it is running fully correctly - I'd be surprised if it wasn't but it's another check and conformation. Doi you know if those wild readings are some kind of default to confirm operation in some way, figures like that suggest to me that there some kind of backlash with communications or wiring or connectors somewhere. For the pump can you wire direct to a 12v battery supply and return, or a return to see if the pump comes to life? What does this mean? - Coolant fan 1: activation: 10.00 % P025A 00 [167] - Electrical Fault - could be a cause of a engine non-start. So many bits - has this car been in an accident / fire / flood or electric or electronic major issues or part replacement?

The 12v battery seems to be getting lower, I'd suggest fully recharging the battery to help with future (and perhaps current) diagnosis, a battery that's too low can hinder diagnosis and the diagnosis can further lower the battery so you want to at least start at a reasonable level of charge. You need a wiring diagram to know which wires go where. I don't know if the pump has some sort of restrictor from working off a live supply and return from the battery for testing as diesels are more of a mystery to me than even petrol engines and I know next to nothing about them. I'm also not sure how much can be disconnected from the various computer systems and still allow the engine to run (or go to limp). Those wild readings I can't see helping. When you changed the module did you 'code' it in, it it recognised by the system and show as such.

It seems more to be the mechanism but I've got a feeling you can get the sealing washer so may try that. A couple of years ago I got a new Febi oil filler cap to replace the Merc marked one on my neighbour's 33 year old Merc, I don't know if the previous cap was factory fitted or not but it took pliers to get it off, I wasn't over impressed with the Febi replacement. Febi probably just put their name to it and it made by another elsewhere.