nta16

Not so much a repair as restoration. You could use a corded plug-in tool or hand wire bushes or combination of both or all three with cordless. Until you give it a good brushing it's hard to tell but in the photo on screen to me (not that I really know that much) it looks like that wheel(s?) might have potential. You might want to rust proof before painting. I can't see/read a date on the "winter" mud and snow tyre so whilst it seems to have lots of tread wear left and depending how it has been stored it might (or might not) be passed its best for road use. Others may have different thoughts to me and will know more.

You might be better looking at and/or asking in the 'Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020)' forum, link at end of post. I didn't have to when I done them on my wife's 2015 Fabia but the2017 Octavia might be different, I've put links to the notes and tips threads I put up for front and rear changes on my wife's car, I don't know if any of it would be any good to you but here they are. (2015 Fabia Mk3) front brake pads and discs fitting tips - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499752-front-brake-pads-and-discs-fitting-tips (2015 Fabia Mk3) Changing rear brake discs and pads, notes and tips - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517740-changing-rear-brake-discs-and-pads-notes-and-tips HTH. Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/

ETA:: Hi, welcome. Quick thoughts, in no order. Whilst the fuel in the filter looks a good level, and the level varied on my carb'd car, perhaps it's more to do with fuel delivery pressure than volume. If you have a mechanical fuel pump if you have an electric fuel pump to try you could perhaps see if it's the mechanical pump not consistent in delivery. Or if not too troublesome check and clean the mechanical fuel pump. Just curious, why is the fuel red, do you add additive(s) Have you looked and cleaned the inside the dissy cap. There's a hose that has been blanked off, has it always been that way. What does the stuff coming out of the exhaust look like, does it vary when the engine slows and/or stalls. Have you had a look at the spark plugs out the engine to see how they look just after engine running slow and/or stalling. Have you checked for any vacuum or air leaks, tried removing the oil filler cap to see what that does with engine running. How does the air filter and housing look. Is there a warm cold air auto adjustment to air intake, or flap or lever, and if so is it fully operating as it should. What has happened or changed before it started to play up. I assume it has an automatic choke and not a manual choke cable, have you checked the auto-choke is fully behaving a it should and moving freely. Others will be along that know a lot more and better than me.

Thanks. Have another look at my post as I was editing it to add info.

Hi, welcome. You're in the 'Hellos and Goodbyes' forum at the moment, you might be better looking at and/or posting in the 'Skoda Octavia Mk2 (2004 - 2013)' forum in case this might be a known issue there (link at bottom of post). If you swapped from EFB to AGM did you have the battery 'coded' for the car's system (assuming start/stop car). If the previous battery was allowed to go too low for the computers' liking, regardless of how bright the headlights seemed or no issues with starting the engine, then they can throw all sorts of unexpected wobbles, warnings, error codes, issues and problems. If you don't have access to a scan tool I would try disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting to see if it might clear plus you might need to start the engine put the headlights on with air-con on and turn the steering fully both ways to let the car know you have plenty of battery power, and then go for a short drive and see if light remains on , or returns. Bosch I was told are labelled Varta batteries. HTH. 'Skoda Octavia Mk2 (2004 - 2013)' -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk2-2004-2013/

U are communication, so another reason to suspect / check the car's 12v battery isn't in a lower state of charge than the computers like - plus for successful diagnostics . particularly for electric, electronic/computer and engine starting issues you want the battery in a reasonably good state of charge before you start the diagnostics and testing otherwise diagnostics and testing and sorting can be hindered with spurious results or the battery gets too low to successfully proceed. It could also be connectors and/or wires - but first thing I would do is fully recharge the battery using an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' for the car and the charger maintainer. If the battery is low it might take many hours to bring it back up but if you can't get the battery to full in one go then recharge again with the charger maintainer as required. Also driving the car will help to clear codes (if there's not another cause(s) to the fault(s)). If you search the site you will see many threads with problems caused by lower state of battery charge and resolved by recharging the battery, then maintenance charging before the battery gets too low will help keep the issue returning or returning too soon as the battery comes to the end of of useful life (often prematurely by use, abuse and neglect). If recharging the battery doesn't sort the issue(s) then you have still gained by recharging the battery and recharging the battery is a very simple easy clean hands job. The Autel, I can't see what model, is not a VW specialist specific scan tool but may be very good or good enough if kept up to date and used as I put before but all scan tools have errors and omissions and sometimes have problems with some car makes/models and not work as well as on others. Some Briskoda members are able to offer VW specific readings of error codes and reports and perhaps live date for beer tokens at worse, a few others offer professional services so different renumeration. Have a look at the following link and list and map to see if there's anyone near you that might be able to help confirm the Autel readings or give more or different readings and information. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

As long as you are alright, I know you value your car but even if was the most expensive car in the world it would still just be a lump of metal.

It might be b*ggered but I'd try lowering to bottom then see if you can push window back into the clamp, obviously take car you don't want anything broken, then I would clean/lubricate inside rubber guide channels both sides on door window as it's such an easy thing to do to further help to reduce resistance of glass to channel and make the motor and mech's work easier for them, and see how that goes. If that doesn't work then further investigation is required and perhaps farting about with door panel removal, trim removal I tried to avoid plastic clips are a PITA. I don't think there is a repair "kit" for the Mk3 but I might be wrong and I'm fairly sure it doesn't have the troublesome rivets like the Mk1 (my mate usually replaces rivets with (hand rivnut tool) rivnuts/ rivet nuts to make future work easier and quicker).

Storage or driving?

You could try helping it yourself with a little time and effort and shake spray use of GT85 to clean and lubricate the window runner channels. You are best to have the engine running to get the electric windows up and down and for cleaning and lubricating if the battery is in a lower state of charge. There's a few videos on YT or I can find a good well explained and demonstrated one for you. https://gt85.co.uk/

If you have the codes put them up and say which scan tool they are from, if the scan tool isn't VW appropriate and to you model and year (VIN), that program not fully updated before use on the car and the car and if appropriate scan tool batteries are not in a good state of charge then codes and reports can be spurious. If you have the full scan tool health report to post that might help even more. You seem to have a few issues with your car have you checked its 12v battery is in a good state of charge and health if its not, even though the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts without problem, the battery charge could still be too low for the car's computer systems and they can play up. Does the start/stop operate when it should, do you get any messages about electric demand/use and start/stop is deactivated.

Misfires are often but not always from spark plugs past their best. What's the service, maintenance history of the car has it been done in a timely manner. You really need an appropriate scan tool report and perhaps live data to help diagnosis the issue(s) as there can be so many causes to issues like misfires and if you're not use to the 1.0 litre and/or start/stop cars they can cut out or hesitate from acceleration. Probably be best if you start a new thread on your issue(s) as it might or might not include the subject/outcome of this thread. HTH.

Good point from OccyVRS.. Have a look in your 'Owner's Manual' for the car as to what might need resetting, if the power windows and roof were fully closed before battery disconnection then often it's just the time of day clock that needs resetting (I've no idea about seat memories). The windows reset will be in the 'Owner's Manual' if required.

Yes could go indoors for better conditions and get a mug of tea and pee but then you have to have their computer fired up, hope the VW . . . Škoda website is active and working to use the online service, which as you have found isn't always the case. Portable devices/tools, many owners don't have them pre-charged or with sufficient charge to complete the work or risk starting to use them, phone and portable "smart" device screens are difficult to see in daylight and sunlight, owner may not know how to change settings, I don't know and don't want to touch them in case I'm blamed for some app not working in the future that I've not touched. Then of course there's connection or signal issues. In the same way not all that drive cars know even the basics about their cars and how to use them same for device owners. In a previous life I also dealt with the public face to face and in their own homes, I have experience of lots of different people of all sorts of levels, outside of institutions (perhaps like GCHQ though I know of a military person that was seconded there a couple of years back (now frustrated by real world civilian work and life). Yes you certainly can - and you have, and you are correct in as much as I don't own a VWŠkoda at all, it's my wife's car, but I have driven other manufacturers modern cars (2023 being the newest) with lots of computer stuff and screens, I don't think the Owner's Manual was on them but I never looked as a full paper printed copy was provide from new. There's more than one way of doing things and different people can have different approaches, opinions and attitudes, it's good to get a diversity of answers, I'm not having a go at you or what you want to do, viewers can decide what they want to follow or try. Generally most/all (reasonable) systems have their own flaws and advantages. 2019 Kamiq manual doesn't show on site still, for me at least but it's not an issue for me at the moment.

That because you're more used to using computers, but you know you want and often need back up, to information and systems. I have enough experience of helping neighbours and friends with small jobs and issues on their cars or doing other small jobs for them using the tools and information they have available plus working with professional workmen to know anything that requires electric power can be a PITA and unreliable if there isn't back up. Looking something up on the car's info is fine, if it's working and you can get to it, not always the most comfortable or convenient way to get the information though if dealing with an issue. Yes could go indoors for better conditions and get a mug of tea and pee but then you have to have their computer fired up, hope the VW . . . ETA: rocks, pressed Ctrl instead of Alt again, more to continue, follow

Another thought I forgot, you also want to check availability and price of a size of tyre generally and specifically if you have a particular make and model of tyre in mind. I've no idea about these overlarge tyre sizes, I saw a video only the other day why VW went to 17" wheels years back (buying power to lower cost) now of course 17" wheels are viewed as small by most people.

I must admit concentrating on the tyre and wheel figures and being more used to cars with manual four gear box I never gave overall gearing a thought, I'm more used to cars where the use of first gear can be only for a very short time or optional. ETA: I missed Gammyleg's last post, looks like a similar experience unless I'm confusing opposites as I can often do.

Possible but very unusual, more possible if the battery was old stock and not stored correctly, much more often the battery is blamed for other faults and mistakes - but it is possible to have a battery itself be bad but as far as I know quite unusual now from manufacture. See if that also sorts your fob issue. Thanks for reporting back, good luck.

I'd not be surprised if an owner or independent garage or mechanic came up with this before VW took up the idea, it's the type of improvement those who are used to racing or keeping cars come up with as they have the knowledge, experience, attitude and often machinery and/or skills to adapt or make from new.

Sorry to hear that, I hope the "almost" is a near miss rather than a partial wipe out.

That's why I put to have a split shelf arrangement (not necessarily that shelf) fixed for the speakers section and sperate section openable for loading boot.

According to online calculators you gain about 3/4" ride height (and loose 3/4" wheel arch gap) so about 3/4" more sidewall. How much difference this might make depends on your car, the tyres and your driving style, you'd be best to ask another 2016 Superb III 1.6TDi owner that's done that swap or similar with same make and model of tyres or as close as possible. As it's not a standard size for your model you might want to check with your insurance that they don't class it as a modification or other, I can't think it's illegal as such. Many owners to get a better ride and get a little more sidewall for our potholed 3rd-world roads would reduce the wheel size to the 16", which had 215/60 r16 (if internet is correct). HTH.

I totally agree that there should be paper printed (hardcopies) of the full Owner's Manual with the car from new but then many owners lose them or some men think there some law against them ever reading instructions. And the manuals would be as big and heavy (overweight) as VW cars because of all the bits that owners insist on having on new cars that they might only use once or twice or never at all, gotta keep up with the Jones too. With computers interacting with other computers there so much that can go wrong including the physical side so you just have to keep on trying (or give up) or if you believe the glass is half full, and with a lovely drink, then you could try contacting VWŠkoda to see if they can sort things if it's their end, an enormous amount of lifeforce and patience might be required though. Sorry I must be mixing you up I thought you used to work for a certain UK government security establishment. In 1996 onwards if you want to or able you could have perhaps been paid or earnt a lot of money as a consult for "legacy" systems as those that knew about them were got rid of and those newer to computers hadn't a clue about them. I had two lesson about computer programming at school in 1975 or 6 but the lesson were during the lunchbreak and at the time I was more interested in being with mates and getting a girlfriend. Day release a few years later a very small part of the course was learning about punch cards and paper tape. Other than watching someone use a keyboard and VDU with green or orange I never touched a PC(?) computer until around 1996. Lots of working people don't earn a wage, some never have, but they have still been paid, often the more they're paid the less they do or did, wage or income often has little to do with real job or work value. I wonder who I was thinking of if it wasn't you, I doubt if I'll ever remember . . .

Assuming the following is correct, sourced from Cox Motor Parts - https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/product/seat-shop/seat-arona/arona-2017/arona-2017-engine/genuine-vw-seat-audi-skoda-turbo-actuator-coupling-rod-repair-kit-04c198701d/ Genuine VW/Seat/Audi/Skoda Turbo Actuator Coupling Rod Repair Kit (04C198701D) - £38.82 (ETA: it's probably described as a kit as it includes the clips shown 😄 )

@chrisclin whilst I was at the site I picked up the stuff below for you if one is of any use great if not fair enough. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models HTH.