nta16

Yes, sorry, force of habit I typed pdf I meant digital, I've edited post thanks for letting me know. I wouldn't say even the full paper printed or pdf or digital versions of VWŠkoda full Owner's Manuals include all the information they could or that other car manufacturers still include and that's apart from their need to have there own specification and names and numbers to service items. They certainly haven't put their English translation through something like the Plain English, some of it is like my posts here. 😄 Yeap that's what my example was about crisclin (see even you do typos and you deal with computers) can go to the VWŠkoda Owner's Manual website and, if it's working at the time, go the digital version and see if it's the long version that's required and if so note the part number to order from the Dealership with more confidence they'll order the correct part or buy it elsewhere. The Kamiq Owner's Manual on the VWŠkoda manuals website I was looking for remains unavailable but Fabia 4 06/2023 only had a slight hesitation showing just now. -

Around where I am I think most would call it a parcel shelf, not that you would want to use it for that, or older people might call it a hat shelf. Really it's just a cover for the boot to hide and protect any stuff in the boot and reduce noise from that area a little. Really for speakers that size you need a more secure locating panel and to really be fixed to give a solid box effect but if you reinforce that shelf the two bits of string and their plastic holders might not be strong enough for the weight if you keep it openable. You could install a split shelf, part with speakers permanently securely fixed down and rear part openable. The speakers sound at that location might be a bit brittle being bounced off the large hard glass reflective area above them. Two speakers are easier to control than four unless you have them controlled separately, the fader only give the pair "volume" balance to front pair, unless the rear pair are tone and perhaps amplified separately.

Welcome to the world of aftermarket (and sometimes genuine original manufacturer) quality. Intermotor used to be a good reliable brand but that was long ago and far away, if the part looks and feels different to original then it's probably not made the same as the original no matter what the part manufacturer/supplier or seller tells you.

The link and eBay item where to show availability, more for @chrisclin. The official VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals link for the 01/2024 takes you to what I've put up as an image and I take it this is what VWŠkoda offer as a full (well as much as they deem to tell their customer/owners/users) pdf [ETA: digital ] version of the hardcopy. I don't know if I am correct as I have never seen what VWŠkoda consider as a full version hardcopy (printed paper version) for the newer cars. I noted the part number, which you use when ordering parts, is the same part number on the VWŠkoda manuals site, and in the image, as the part number on the eBay item. I was only trying to help with what @chrisclin was after by giving direction and information, obviously as with all forms of information from any source, including internet and manufacturers, it needs confirming and cross checking and not just accepted. Having access to the full (as much as VWŠkoda give) Owner's Manual, if the owner/drivers read, and refer to it when required, can give lots of information and help with use of the car and maintenance servicing and repairs and can save lots of unnecessary hassle and expense with parts and visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians.

Yeah, gotta admit that looks fine. Personally I would have the rest of the interior that restrained, I don't like the look of even real carbon fibre so the sill plates are not even bling to me and replacing them with something that has the logo and car manufacture's name prominent isn't for me. The MGs of 1980s and 90s that had the MG logo all over the exterior and interior as if the car owner couldn't remember the brand of car he'd got. But as always each to their own.

@FatblokeVRS when I done my wife's 2015 Fabia 5-speed manual (PED(?) 02T) on a pre-test to check what tools I'd need so that I could get the filler plug out (and back in) and get at the drain plug when I took the filler plug fully out an amount of unexpected (but oil bowl ready) so unmeasured oil came out the filler hole with car level (tyres on blocks to have room to get the annoying fantastic-plastic under-shield off) oil cool or cold in box. On actually doing the job I tilted the car towards one corner to get more out of the box but even with the oil hot for drain and filling with car at level and then titled I didn't get anywhere the service fill in. Obviously I didn't want to overfill. For a fuller change of old oil to new with engine oil it takes two changes of new oil to get nearer full new oil because of residue at each drain so with this gearbox I just accept it'll take two goes for higher new ratio and less dilution from old oil. I've no idea how similar or dissimilar the Yeti 5-speed manual box and its installation and filling is to my wife's 2015 Fabia 5-speed box (PED(?) 02T) so I'm just giving my experience - and if you crush your legs don't come running to me.

Sorry I thought you was talking about engine rather than oil.

From VWŠkoda Owner's Manual website pdf for 01/2024 note the part number in reference to eBay item below. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models 2024 SKODA FABIA PJ MK4 OWNERS MANUAL HANDBOOK, eBay UK. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167321919056 HTH a bit.

A thought I had earlier was that plug-in thing but if you have cross-checked it in other cars, which is why a confirmation with a reasonable multimeter on the battery terminals might help plus it might show the difference at different reading points. Warmer weather will help the battery plus some electric items in the car may be used less or not used with the difference in the weather. I must admit I didn't think of battery charger fault but what makes you think it is faulty by trying it on a fully charged battery and how do you know the battery is fully charged - I've been told this and that the battery is "good" a number of times when they weren't the case. Something I forgot to put which I normally do is, always check the testing equipment before each use or you can waste a lot of time and get false results and diagnosis - perhaps the battery charger is as you say faulty, or it might not be obviously I can't know just from the information given. Again the use of a reasonably reliable multimeter. Some cheap digital meters can be a bit inaccurate and even hit and miss if you had a selection of multimeters, unless high quality, two or more giving the same reading would probably be more about chance and coincidence in my experience. The terminal clamps look tight enough in the photos as long as there's no crud between them and the posts and you can't turn them with hand pressure. The negative terminal post top looks like it has a probe point hole and scratch perhaps from a multimeter and what's with the top of the positive terminal post I'm not sure perhaps zooming in on the photo gives something of nothing. Pity you don't live nearer to me as I could throw my old analogue charger on it and get an idea of the battery's potential within 10-15 minutes, never certain particularly with the battery still in the car but a reasonably good idea from experience and for this situation possibly using the "smart" charger maintainer might give an idea but with even less overall certainty just potential.

Oils are overall formula and actions so if you are just looking at the additive package ingredients it might appear that way but the oil overall in use may or may not give less wear protection you would need test results under reasonably strict conditions for real life comparisons. What's on paper and in theory is often very different to what happens particularly in real world use. But I'm with you as I doubt VW make their engines good enough in the past and developed later for me to want to put a VW recommended 0w-20 oil in them now for normal UK use if I intended keeping the car too long out of warranty. Time might tell, perhaps VW might in the future change their recommendation for these cars that are out of warranty and with age and use - or they might be fine as most people expect less from used cars and VW can blame previous owners, the sky or the moon, if the company is still going in its present form. I'm sure your car will last well as you look after your cars so much better than most.

Not that it matters at all but they look look better to me but I'd even want inner cone colours to be as the main cone and nameplate a lot more subtle, to me they should be heard but not seen. The grille should mostly hide and tidy the appearance of the speakers.

A good oil will cover all three, a better oil will cover better and perhaps more. With either oil I take thoroughness of oil and filter changes as being important too, thoroughness could also possibly slightly reduce frequency or give more margin(s) to point of change.

. . . The VWŠkoda Owmer's Manual seems to be playing up sometimes at the moment, do you have a paper printed version (much more reliable) to refer to. Basically you connect the charger positive to the battery positive but the charger negative wants to go to the dedicated earth point or a good earth point on the engine or elsewhere so that the computer knows the battery is being charged, The charger wants to be a tenth or less of the the battery Ah rating, so 60Ah battery you can us 6-amps or less. Up to you what you do but if you try connecting up as described hopefully you should get up to 12.2v a lot quicker and if after a couple of hours or so it remains at 12.2v reading you might as well give up. But it'd be better if you could borrow a reasonable quality multimeter and take readings on the battery terminals with charger turned off at these points. Other thing is if you have something running and draining the battery that shouldn't be fighting against the charger and battery but drops sound too big really. If it wasn't for those stupid links on top of the battery I'd say take the battery out of the car to charge it, that should at least speed things up a little and give battery only readings and the Owner's Manual is best consulted for battery disconnection/reconnection, usually as long as the windows and roof were fully shut you only need reset the time of day clock. With the battery out of the car you could also try the computer reset but you'd hope the Dealership would have cleared any error codes (unless of return since). Or return the car to the Dealership and tell them of your readings - bear in mind IF applicable 12.2v plus say 0.2v or 0.3v is 12.4v or 12.5v which they may be happy about (see previous charts).

Not my preference at all but the plug-in for all I know might be very or reasonably accurate but as long as it is reliable in what it does it means a consistent method of taking the readings. A better picture I think is from probes directly on to the top of battery terminals. That's a 6-amp "old fashion" charger so you want that connected up properly and kept a good eye on as there's no telling when it goes from yellow to green light. The VW . . . (caught wrong button (again) more to follow

In the expert chap's videos I put a link to it confirms the 0w-(IIRC) 20 oils are high quality and give very good protection but the oil isn't just the grade numbers it also has to be suitable for use as used. I do not think you should put your complete trust in VW designers and engineers as they are humans and so make mistakes and they are also employed in their profession by VW who are a company that is a car manufacturer whose products are not faultless and the faults and mistakes are not always admitted to. That is not to say they can't recommend the correct oil for their engines but fully correct to what measurement for who's benefit overall. Shell's idea of using waste product should be applauded and it can be used to make a very good or excellent engine oil but as with all oils there is more to it than the base oil. -https://blog.amsoil.com/is-motor-oil-made-from-natural-gas-better/ Again that is not to say that Shell Helix Ultra isn't a good or very good or excellent oil. VW seem to be making it a lot more difficult to establish what should be a clear cut answer, if some of their engines they recommend to use 0w-20 oil but others not then that information should be vey clear and widely made available. Is the case VW want you to use 0w-20 or that it is best to use 0w-20 and best for who and when and for how long, is there an absolute need that 0w-20 must be used, none of that has been made clear to me but I can be a bit slow mentally - and yes I am cynical with VW given their past and how I have found the quality of my wife's 2015 VWŠkoda especially some of the parts quality. The German car marques generally have been able to rely on an outdated believe in "German engineering quality" being high when that relates just about generally to the last century. I don't understand the worry about very small increases in full economy when most cars over here generally are mostly driven for short distances at lower speeds (not needing and wasting the then well overpowered engine power), all mostly with only the driver or one passenger in a modern heavy (particularly VWs) with oversized wheels and tyres. But I suppose any saving is better than none. Be good to know the outcome to this 0w-20 though, keep going and letting us know. 👍

Assuming the battery has sufficient "water" (electrolyte) in it and the plates are OK then the raw figures don't look great but I don't know how they were taken or what with and the method needs to be consistent plus I don't know how the battery was charged and what with. The 12.7v measurement means very little as it was taken too soon after the battery was hopefully charged by the alternator. Depending on how the battery was charged 18 hours isn't necessarily that long and obviously not sufficient for whatever reason in this case. To give you an example the battery in my wife's car wasn't that low but took 14-15 hours for the charger maintainer to show full - cold winter's night but "winter" setting on 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer, battery in car. Unless you have your charger maintainer with you and can use it at work then I presume (always dangerous) that your car will be sat parked up for many hours with the battery slowly being drawn of some power, coming out rather than being replaced and more going in so if you can as soon as you get home, if you want to, put the battery charger maintainer back on and leave on until you go to work tomorrow and see if there's any improvement. IIRC I think you put before your plug-in digital thing was showing 14.x v while driving but monitor it again when you drive home tonight. Other than having a third party check your battery (and alternator) you've had two lots say your battery is OK if they are correct it leaves the alternator, computer system, wiring or connection(s) as being faulty. Did you check battery terminal clamps are tight and cables, wires and their connections (live and earth) are all secure and in good condition - yes the Dealership and Halfords should have at least checked the battery terminal clamps but if you are having to do a job for yourself you don't want to trust the work of those that didn't sort things before you. If a Briskoda member with scan tool, multimeter or battery tester was perhaps near to your home or work they could check stuff and or show you how to confirm and possibly help find the cause of the issue(s) or the resolve, most perhaps for a beer token at worse. If you want to have a look at the list and map here. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

@Ootohere now you've put it up again I remembers seeing that 508 504 list before but don't know what year(s) it relates or starts from. I don't know if you saw the following I posted earlier, those no date to it so I assume current or at least currently showing on this company's website (obviously with the usual provisos about information particular from the internet and manufacturers websites). - ŠKODA Genuine Engine Oils Volkswagen Group Standards -https://www.skoda-auto.com/other/oils-standards

Thank you. Yes I've seen that before but forgot. I usually just look at the SDS for name and address when the oil is under a different label. I'll probably forget again though, not that it'll bother me too much because I'd forget I forgot. 🙃

ETA: Just for info other car manufacturers use 0w-16 and 0w-12.

. . . A better and/or higher quality oil in whatever specification and type of oil will offer greater margins of protection under more circumstances and for longer, that is not to say the oil VWŠkoda recommends (Castrol?) isn't or won't be a good oil just that you can get better and I've never looked to see who provides oils for the VW labelled bottles, I don't even know if they sell their own labelled engine oils. Engine oils are made up of the base oil and additives package both are important and to each other, the additives are mostly made by other manufacturers but can be made to specification for anyone that can afford it and to meet the various standards specifications and to vehicle manufacturers' specifications. In use one engine oil might be very good in one car and its circumstances and not quite as good in another car and its circumstances If they meet the specifications all should be good if used correctly and changed when required, some will just be a bit better in some circumstances and for longer than others but the gains may not be great unless additional strain(s) to them. Do you drive using your oil temperature showing? If you want to know more of the science and how it applies practically have a look at some of the videos from this (professional) chap. - https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek

Yeap I get it. To deal with generalisations first. Do NOT fully trust or fully expect that the VW designers, engineers and builders always get it correct or don't have to make and accept compromises. From what I have seen it looks like they have previously blamed oil for their possible mistake with a previous gearbox and have design, engineered and build mistakes that they don't admit to and leave their customers to face the consequences and costs. That is apart from dieselgate. Their concern can be about getting, or appearing to, as low emissions and as high fuel economy as possible which gets harder and harder given previous gains and inherent limitations of the technology, build, price and marketing limitations. As with other beliefs there are beliefs particularly about oils for cars and as with all beliefs some may be incorrect or totally wrong, you can choose which if any you want to go with, there is science but often that has very little or nothing to do with beliefs and the science can be wrong or incomplete or wrong applied or understood. And what works in a laboratory or with industry testing may get different results in real world use particularly over longer time and use terms. Putting things in very basic terms (which is all I know about the subject and understand) "thinner" oil offers less resistance so less energy loss and more fuel efficiency but requires better engineering, build, materials to some extent complexities, those all come at a cost, including monetary cost and perhaps experience of meeting higher standards. If the oil is too thin then there is greater risk of wear and damage. VW don't care as long as the engine makes it past their longest car/engine warranty periods (car 2 or 3 years in UK, 7 years in Australia I believe for same car but in different market location) and past any marketing sales periods that won't affect current and near future sales too much. VWŠkoda UK isn't much better or different in dealing with customers. VW 502 isn't necessarily 5w-40, when searching a popular UK oil supplier for VW 502.000 engine oil a wide range of oil manufacturers. blenders types, qualities, prices and multigrades is shown, from 0w-30 to 10w-40 (I dismissed a 15w-50 as a possible mistake). - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-746-vw-50200-engine-oil.aspx This brings up two other points, firstly all databases have errors and omissions, including car and oil manufacturers/blenders, you should (as you are now) always check and cross-reference any information you get from any source, particularly internet, even manufacturers websites. Secondly the grades, winter and other, e.g. 5w and 40 are ranges, one 5w can be "thinner" (or "thicker") than another 5w and wear at different rates and circumstances. Same for 40 grade weight (both are measured differently) and say for the 40 IF it started low ("thinner") in the 40 grade it might move from stated grade weight into 30 with conditions of use and wear. Car manufacturers often change even the oil manufacturers they recommend based on commercial association and contracts as time passes, let alone VW changing their specifications for oil and coolant (another possibly design, build, mistake or compromise(s) made in earlier times). Like you I couldn't get a downloadable copy of the Owners Manual for the 2021 Rapid from VWŠkoda's site, a bit strange or just one of those things, Sod's Law so you know when the car was built but do you know when the engine was built, a scan tool report perhaps showing dates of engine sensor and module date information or know what other models that particular engine went into (Škoda or VW, Polo perhaps) to look at which oil is recommended in those models' Owner's Manuals Or the pdf you put up has for model year 2021 508 takes immediate effect but not to use it in older engine generations and that the engines not suitable for 508 will have a "notice (lock/carrier engine compartment" telling you which oil to use, is the "lock/carrier engine compartment" the (bonnet) slam panel with sticker near the bonnet catch(?). The problem with asking what other owners use is that most will not be in India, I'm not sure if we even have the DSHA engine here but it doesn't matter as UK is a different region and might have different market recommendations. The climate and driving conditions may well be different here, we get at extremes -20c to +40c here, I forget the humidity and other weather details but the climate and classification. A better and/or higher quality oil in whatever specification and type of oil will offer greater margins of protection under more circumstances and for longer, that is not to say the oil VW . . . (more to come I pressed a wrong button, not meaning to post yet).

Scrap last bit of previous post, Sod's Law did apply but only to the one model I was looking for. Sorry for the misinformation, teach me to remember my own advice and always test (more).

Things might be different if you also have this active cruise control, I don't know but IIRC (always a doubt with that) you don't have to, you can deactivate it with the car's menu, in my mind you can untick the box. Consult the appropriate manual or play with the CAR(? )menu. A note that may or may not be fully correct but has been pointed out before, insurance, the car was manufactured with the system and insured as such unless otherwise stated so if you have a slippery and/or incompetent company/person. agency dealing with the insurance and/or any claim they say why was it off - and/or why were we not informed it was off. I've no idea if this is correct in any measure at all as we pay more for hopefully better insurance and companies dealing with them. I got phone calls this week from, the now previous, insurer about my wife's car being claimed to be in an accident it wasn't and after talking it seemed most likely to be a simple mistake of wrong registration plate number from the claiming insurance, apparently this large well-known insurance company claiming is also known for such errors. To me it said something about the claiming insurance company's systems and staff training and perhaps management and company attitudes - but this is England so to be expected I've found from decides of experience with some insurance companies and living in England and dealing with English managements and companies over my many decades. As for the MoT tester having a light on when t shouldn't be may not be even an advisory but it may make them think what else might be wrong and/or less tolerant about other minor to major matters, the warning isn't something that must show. You sound like the sort of chap who will get things sorted with this, good luck.

Thanks I wasn't sure if the systems interacted indirectly as all are about removing as much from the driver as possible for the days of "driverless" cars. I think if this every comes it will be in limited applications and areas but to many the car is already just an infotainment system on wheels and possibly also going on to a portable battery storage power system. On the cars I've driven with lane "assist" it can be very intermittent in its accuracy of use but you are warned about this in the pages telling you what it can't do or be trusted with. I've tested the one on my neighbour's car a number of times (with him as passenger) and had something like a leaf blowing on a hedge 15 foot back from road verge frighten the poor thing which might explain it later taking revenge when I was proving the centre white lines aren't always recognised when the conditions are good as it requires and it's reaction was slow when required. This car had front, sides and rear cameras, these along with exterior lights, windows, mirrors and reflective number plates I clean as required before driving the vehicle and I was of course exaggerating (a bit) how nervous the system is, and of course at no point did I put anyone or thing at danger (there's always risk) and my neighbour used to be an amateur rally navigator in the 1960s so his only real concern being a Yorkshire man was mpg, On another occasion I proved to him following the car's gear selection/change suggestions doesn't, always at least, give best fuel economy, well yet anyway. These systems can be very reliable, within their limitations, so very reliable in that sense, but they should not be fully relied on as a driver, they do offer assistance on many occasions but not always.

Have you had a look at the door and door frame locking areas and mechanisms to see if there might be any intrusions or obstructions from "foreign bodies" or grit/muck? I'd use a good torch and magnifying glass to inspect and a small pick of some sort to clear anything. And/or try cleaning and lubricating, perhaps flushing out with GT85. - https://gt85.co.uk/ You could also check for full alignment and that the door seal, door and/or hinges (and door strap) are allowing the door to fully align and close. Then you are on to the electric and electronic (including computer(s) side of things. Do you have access to a VW appropriate scan tool that has a program for your model and year, it also before every use on the car needs the program for your car to be fully up to date for your model and year and for the car battery and if appropriate scan tool battery, to be god state of charge(s) - lazy scan tool owners and users often don't bother with either. With the scan tool if appropriate level you can test and help with diagnostics to this issue. If you can't find a physical fault and don't have access to an appropriate scan tool come back for other suggestions and ideas, electronic side or more mechanical side. Also other posters will have other, and possibly better, advice, suggestions and ideas HTH, good luck.